Ácido glicólico: Agente despigmentante e rejuvenescedor

The skin pigmentation caused by ultraviolet light irradiation as a defense against the carcinogenic action of solar light may lead to early skin aging and to hyperchromia, which treatment requires the use of photo-protective, depigmenting and rejuvenating agents. Recently, there have been used many substances for the prevention and/or treatment of skin aging as well as to lowering the skin pigmentation. Glycolic acid is the alpha-hydroxy acid most commonly used in cosmetic and dermatological prepatations. This use is due to its depigmentating and rejuvenating properties and its efficacy at different concentrations, when incorporated to different kind of excipients.

Studying the satisfaction of patients on the outcome of an aesthetic dermatological filler treatment

Background: Many factors contribute to extend productive life in the modern world. Competition makes people worry about physical appearance, mosftly in respect to facial and skin aging. This has motivated new developments in cosmetic dermatology and the need of evaluating patient satisfaction with the new proposed treatments. Poll questionnaire has been used for such evaluation, and the analysis of the electroencephalogram (EEG) mapping obtained while the patient answers the satisfaction questionnaire may render the results less subjective. Objectives: The purpose of this paper is to study the satisfaction of a group of 33 women (mean age, 44.years) treated with hyaluronic acid filling of nasolabial folding or lips, combining the EEG brain mapping and questionnaire techniques. Methods: At the third month of evaluation, two networked personal computers were used for the EEG recording and for presenting the patient with a questionnaire about her well-being feeling; self-evaluation of her face; her satisfaction with the results of the aesthetic treatment; how the family, friends, and people at work evaluated the result of the treatment; and her decision to repeat the treatment and to recommend it to friends and family. Results: Poll results showed that patients were feeling well and were satisfied with the results of the aesthetic treatment. Furthermore, the regression EEG mappings showed patients to be satisfied with their appearance and with the treatment involving similar brain areas. Conclusion: Patients decided to undergo the treatment because they were already considering it (54%) or because they were dissatisfied with their lips or nasolabial folding (52%). The fact that the treatment was free of charge solidified the decision. Patients consider themselves as good-looking and they wanted to preserve such a condition. © 2008 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

A randomized and controlled trial about the use of oral isotretinoin for photoaging

Topical retinoids are used to treat photoaging; oral isotretinoin is gold standard for acne; off label indications, including photoaging, have been reported with insufficient evidence of efficacy. This is a randomized controlled phase II trial with clinical and histological assessment to evaluate efficacy and safety of oral isotretinoin for photoaging. Study population was comprised of 32 menopausal or sterilized women, aged 40-55, divided in 2 groups: A (21) received 20mg isotretinoin, 3 times per week, nightly moisturizer, and daily sunscreen, for three months; B (11) just moisturizer/sunscreen. Main outcome measures were: overall clinical assessment; profilometry, corneometer and elasticity tests in periocular regions and left forearm; before/after biopsies from left forearm in patients of B and in 10 randomly selected of A. Microscopic blinded evaluation of epidermal thickness, dermal elastosis, new collagen, p53 epidermal expression was performed by quantitative digital image analysis. All data were submitted to statistical analysis. Clinical evaluation showed slight improvement; profilometry, corneometer and skin elasticity tests presented significant difference in pre/post values (P = 0.001 to 0.028), but no differences between A/B. Histological findings and p53 expression were comparable between groups before treatment (P > 0.1); microscopic analysis showed no differences between groups for most variables, after treatment. Slight but significant difference between A/B for p53 with major reduction post isotretinoin [0.66±0.31 vs. 0.94±0.34 respectively (P = 0.04) was observed. There were minor side effects and no significant laboratory test alterations. We concluded that no significant clinical, microscopic changes but p53 epidermal expression reduction were observed. The role of ultra-violet induced p53 mutation in skin carcinogenesis reinforces retinoids chemoprevention. Oral isotretinoin seemed safe but not effective to treat photoaging. Caution should be considered for women prone to pregnancy. Further controlled studies are necessary. © 2010 The International Society of Dermatology.

Assessment of eyebrow position before and after upper eyelid blepharoplasty

Objective: Assess the occurrence of secondary brow ptosis after upper lid blepharoplasty. Methods: Forty-five individuals (n90 brows) submitted to upper lid blepharoplasty, were assessed by means of a comparative analysis using pre- and post-operatively digital photographs, in the primary position of the eye. The images were processed using ImageJ software, transferred to a computer, to an electronic Microsoft Excel 2002® worksheet. Angular measurements were used, taking the lateral canthal angle of the brow, the most medial point of the brow, the medial canthal angle and the lateral canthal angle of the lid as anatomical reference points. When the outer angles were reduced or the inner angles increased after surgery this was considered a brow ptosis. Individuals who had undergone lid surgery associated with the eyebrow, previous eyebrow surgery and those with eyelid ptosis were excluded. The difference between the pre-operative and post-operative measurements were analyzed statistically using the Student's t-test for paired samples and the angular variation was compared with their corresponding contralateral sample using Wilcoxon's non-parametric test. Results: The measurements obtained after the blepharoplasty show significant variations from those before the surgery, indicating that the correction of redundant tissues in the brow accentuates the tendency of the eyebrow to move down. The alterations are more important in the lateral portion of the eyebrow and they occur bilaterally. Conclusion: The assessment of angular measurements obtained pre- and post-operatively showed that there are secondary changes in the position of the eyebrow as a result of upper eyelid blepharoplasty. © 2012 Informa Healthcare USA, Inc.

Desenvolvimento e caracterização físico-química de sistemas líquido cristalinos contendo palmitato de retinol: quantificação química, avaliação da atividade antioxidante, estudos de liberação e bioadesão in vitro

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Desenvolvimento e atividade do fitocosmético contendo licopeno para o combate à aceleração do envelhecimento cutâneo

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Avaliação da segurança e estudo da permeação e retenção cutânea de géis de ácido hialurônico

Pós-graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas - FCFAR

Desenvolvimento de sistemas líquido cristalinos contendo Ac-WAhx-KTTKS para o tratamento do envelhecimento cutâneo

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Modelos in vitro e in vivo aplicados à avaliação de toxicidade e eficácia de fitocosmético: Serjania marginata Casar. (Sapindaceae)

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Desenvolvimento de sistemas líquido cristalinos lamelares contendo diferentes concentrações de Ac-Wahx-kttks para o tratamento do envelhecimento cutâneo

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Tobacco in adolescence: importance to knowledge the health hazards and preventive measures

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Accumulation of Maillard reaction products in skin collagen in diabetes and aging

To investigate the contribution of glycation and oxidation reactions to the modification of insoluble collagen in aging and diabetes, Maillard reaction products were measured in skin collagen from 39 type 1 diabetic patients and 52 nondiabetic control subjects. Compounds studied included fructoselysine (FL), the initial glycation product, and the glycoxidation products, N epsilon-(carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) and pentosidine, formed during later Maillard reactions. Collagen-linked fluorescence was also studied. In nondiabetic subjects, glycation of collagen (FL content) increased only 33% between 20 and 85 yr of age. In contrast, CML, pentosidine and fluorescence increased five-fold, correlating strongly with age. In diabetic patients, collagen FL was increased threefold compared with nondiabetic subjects, correlating strongly with glycated hemoglobin but not with age. Collagen CML, pentosidine and fluorescence were increased up to twofold in diabetic compared with control patients: this could be explained by the increase in glycation alone, without invoking increased oxidative stress. There were strong correlations among CML, pentosidine and fluorescence in both groups, providing evidence for age-dependent chemical modification of collagen via the Maillard reaction, and acceleration of this process in diabetes. These results support the description of diabetes as a disease characterized by accelerated chemical aging of long-lived tissue proteins.

A biomarker that identifies senescent human cells in culture and in aging skin in vivo.

Normal somatic cells invariably enter a state of irreversibly arrested growth and altered function after a finite number of divisions. This process, termed replicative senescence, is thought to be a tumor-suppressive mechanism and an underlying cause of aging. There is ample evidence that escape from senescence, or immortality, is important for malignant transformation. By contrast, the role of replicative senescence in organismic aging is controversial. Studies on cells cultured from donors of different ages, genetic backgrounds, or species suggest that senescence occurs in vivo and that organismic lifespan and cell replicative lifespan are under common genetic control. However, senescent cells cannot be distinguished from quiescent or terminally differentiated cells in tissues. Thus, evidence that senescent cells exist and accumulate with age in vivo is lacking. We show that several human cells express a beta-galactosidase, histochemically detectable at pH 6, upon senescence in culture. This marker was expressed by senescent, but not presenescent, fibroblasts and keratinocytes but was absent from quiescent fibroblasts and terminally differentiated keratinocytes. It was also absent from immortal cells but was induced by genetic manipulations that reversed immortality. In skin samples from human donors of different age, there was an age-dependent increase in this marker in dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes. This marker provides in situ evidence that senescent cells may exist and accumulate with age in vivo.