Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height

A statistical model of random wave is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. A new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height is presented. The results indicate that wave steepness not only could be a parameter of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave height distribution deviation from the Rayleigh distribution. The new wave height distribution overcomes the problem of Rayleigh distribution that the prediction of big wave is overestimated and the general wave is underestimated. The prediction of small probability wave height value of new distribution is also smaller than that of Rayleigh distribution. Wave height data taken from East China Normal University are used to verify the new distribution. The results indicate that the new distribution fits the measurements much better than the Rayleigh distribution.

Measurements of ocean wave and current field using dual polarized X-band radar

A new ocean wave and sea surface current monitoring system with horizontally-(HH) and vertically-(VV) polarized X-band radar was developed. Two experiments into the use of the radar system were carried out at two sites, respectively, for calibration process in Zhangzi Island of the Yellow Sea, and for validation in the Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities were retrieved from the dual polarized radar image sequences based on an inverse method. The results obtained from dual-polarized radar data sets acquired in Zhangzi Island are compared with those from an ocean directional buoy. The results show that ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities retrieved from radar image sets are in a good agreement with those observed by the buoy. In particular, it has been found that the vertically-polarized radar is better than the horizontally-polarized radar in retrieving ocean wave parameters, especially in detecting the significant wave height below 1.0 m.

Wave Height Ano Speotral Transformation In The Shallow Waters Of Kerala Ooast And Their Preoiotion

There are basically two methods for prediction of shallow water waves, viz. the graphical method and the numerical method. The numerical methods are being widely used, now—a—days, because they are fast, accurate and are especially useful when the prediction over a large spatial frame is required. Practically little has been done on the development of numerical models for the prediction of height and spectral transformation of waves as applicable to our coasts. Synchronized deep and shallow water wave measurements which are essential for study of wave transformation are very much lacking for our coasts. Under these circumstances, a comprehensive study of the wave transformation in the shallow waters of our coast was felt very important and is undertaken in the present investigation.

Response of the North Atlantic wave climate to atmospheric modes of variability

This study investigates the relationship between the wind wave climate and the main climate modes of atmospheric variability in the North Atlantic Ocean. The modes considered are the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), the East Atlantic (EA) pattern, the East Atlantic Western Russian (EA/WR) pattern and the Scandinavian (SCAN) pattern. The wave dataset consists of buoys records, remote sensing altimetry observations and a numerical hindcast providing significant wave height (SWH), mean wave period (MWP) and mean wave direction (MWD) for the period 1989–2009. After evaluating the reliability of the hindcast, we focus on the impact of each mode on seasonal wave parameters and on the relative importance of wind-sea and swell components. Results demonstrate that the NAO and EA patterns are the most relevant, whereas EA/WR and SCAN patterns have a weaker impact on the North Atlantic wave climate variability. During their positive phases, both NAO and EA patterns are related to winter SWH at a rate that reaches 1 m per unit index along the Scottish coast (NAO) and Iberian coast (EA) patterns. In terms of winter MWD, the two modes induce a counterclockwise shift of up to 65° per negative NAO (positive EA) unit over west European coasts. They also increase the winter MWP in the North Sea and in the Bay of Biscay (up to 1 s per unit NAO) and along the western coasts of Europe and North Africa (1 s per unit EA). The impact of winter EA pattern on all wave parameters is mostly caused through the swell wave component.

On the ability of statistical wind-wave models to capture the variability and long-term trends of the North Atlantic winter wave climate

A dynamical wind-wave climate simulation covering the North Atlantic Ocean and spanning the whole 21st century under the A1B scenario has been compared with a set of statistical projections using atmospheric variables or large scale climate indices as predictors. As a first step, the performance of all statistical models has been evaluated for the present-day climate; namely they have been compared with a dynamical wind-wave hindcast in terms of winter Significant Wave Height (SWH) trends and variance as well as with altimetry data. For the projections, it has been found that statistical models that use wind speed as independent variable predictor are able to capture a larger fraction of the winter SWH inter-annual variability (68% on average) and of the long term changes projected by the dynamical simulation. Conversely, regression models using climate indices, sea level pressure and/or pressure gradient as predictors, account for a smaller SWH variance (from 2.8% to 33%) and do not reproduce the dynamically projected long term trends over the North Atlantic. Investigating the wind-sea and swell components separately, we have found that the combination of two regression models, one for wind-sea waves and another one for the swell component, can improve significantly the wave field projections obtained from single regression models over the North Atlantic.

Statistical assessment of annual patterns in coastal extreme wave conditions

[EN]The annual cycle in extreme values of significant wave height is examined by transforming the timing ofthe storm peaks in a circular variable, with the aim of taking advantage of the many tests devised to explore uniformity on the circle. The use of four different but complementary uniformity tests makes possible a robust assessment of the annual cycle statistical significance. Seasonality of storms in a long time series of significant wave heights, measured in a coastal zone, is examined. The presence of a seasonal pattem is statistically beyond doubt.

Analysis and mathematical modeling of wave-structure interaction

The aim of this thesis, included within the THESEUS project, is the development of a mathematical model 2DV two-phase, based on the existing code IH-2VOF developed by the University of Cantabria, able to represent together the overtopping phenomenon and the sediment transport. Several numerical simulations were carried out in order to analyze the flow characteristics on a dike crest. The results show that the seaward/landward slope does not affect the evolution of the flow depth and velocity over the dike crest whereas the most important parameter is the relative submergence. Wave heights decrease and flow velocities increase while waves travel over the crest. In particular, by increasing the submergence, the wave height decay and the increase of the velocity are less marked. Besides, an appropriate curve able to fit the variation of the wave height/velocity over the dike crest were found. Both for the wave height and for the wave velocity different fitting coefficients were determined on the basis of the submergence and of the significant wave height. An equation describing the trend of the dimensionless coefficient c_h for the wave height was derived. These conclusions could be taken into consideration for the design criteria and the upgrade of the structures. In the second part of the thesis, new equations for the representation of the sediment transport in the IH-2VOF model were introduced in order to represent beach erosion while waves run-up and overtop the sea banks during storms. The new model allows to calculate sediment fluxes in the water column together with the sediment concentration. Moreover it is possible to model the bed profile evolution. Different tests were performed under low-intensity regular waves with an homogeneous layer of sand on the bottom of a channel in order to analyze the erosion-deposition patterns and verify the model results.

Hydraulic evaluation of the gyro electric wave energy converter

Motivation Thanks for a scholarship offered by ALma Mater Studiorum I could stay in Denmark for six months during which I could do physical tests on the device Gyro PTO at the Departmet of Civil Engineering of Aalborg University. Aim The goal of my thesis is an hydraulic evaluation of the device: Gyro PTO, a gyroscopic device for conversion of mechanical energy in ocean surface waves to electrical energy. The principle of the system is the application of the gyroscopic moment of flywheels equipped on a swing float excited by waves. The laboratory activities were carried out by: Morten Kramer, Jan Olsen, Irene Guaraldi, Morten Thøtt, Nikolaj Holk. The main purpose of the tests was to investigate the power absorption performance in irregular waves, but testing also included performance measures in regular waves and simple tests to get knowledge about characteristics of the device, which could facilitate the possibility of performing numerical simulations and optimizations. Methodology To generate the waves and measure the performance of the device a workstation was created in the laboratory. The workstation consist of four computers in each of wich there was a different program. Programs have been used : Awasys6, LabView, Wave lab, Motive optitrack, Matlab, Autocad Main Results Thanks to the obtained data with the tank testing was possible to make the process of wave analisys. We obtained significant wave height and period through a script Matlab and then the values of power produced, and energy efficiency of the device for two types of waves: regular and irregular. We also got results as: physical size, weight, inertia moments, hydrostatics, eigen periods, mooring stiffness, friction, hydrodynamic coefficients etc. We obtained significant parameters related to the prototype in the laboratory after which we scale up the results obtained for two future applications: one in Nissun Brending and in the North Sea. Conclusions The main conclusion on the testing is that more focus should be put into ensuring a stable and positive power output in a variety of wave conditions. In the irregular waves the power production was negative and therefore it does not make sense to scale up the results directly. The average measured capture width in the regular waves was 0.21 m. As the device width is 0.63 m this corresponds to a capture width ratio of: 0.21/0.63 * 100 = 33 %. Let’s assume that it is possible to get the device to produce as well in irregular waves under any wave conditions, and lets further assume that the yearly absorbed energy can be converted into electricity at a PTO-efficiency of 90 %. Under all those assumptions the results in table are found, i.e. a Nissum Bredning would produce 0.87 MWh/year and a North Sea device 85 MWh/year.

Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Dimensionless wave height parameter for preliminary design of scour protection in offshore wind farms

This article describes the results of an investigation aimed at the analysis methods used in the design of the protections against scour phenomenon on offshore wind farms in transitional waters, using medium and large diameter monopile type deep foundations.

Determination of mooring load and transmitted wave height for a floating tire breakwater /

"September 1979."

Atlantic coast hindcast, shallow-water, significant wave information /

"January 1983."

Wave-height prediction for wave generators in shallow water /

"March 1964."

Empirical guidelines for use of irregular wave model to estimate nearshore wave height /

"July 1982."