59 resultados para Morphodynamic


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The identification of fish zones in western and central Europe has been the objective some major studies. This paper concerns a stream in Normandy specially studied by the author in 1969 and 1970 in the framework of a study on the role of the mean temperature in fish zoning. The paper propounds the comparative study of the morphodynamic and occasionally physico-chemical characteristics, as well as the results of previous sampling by electric fishing of the fish populations of two other streams of the higher Cretaceous layer and supplied by ”chalky” water in Normandy and Picardy.

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河口和潮汐海湾是受陆海相互作用共同影响的一个复杂动力系统,是陆海相 互作用研究的理想区域。特别是大河影响下的邻近海域,其海岸带发育、动力地 貌、生态环境必将表现出复杂的特征,开展该区域的陆海相互作用研究是非常必 要的。本文采用遥感定量反演手段和泥沙模拟估算方法,结合多年潮汐数据、河 口段水文水质观测数据、近岸区遥感和历史图件等从研究莱州湾西南近岸物质组 成与输运特征,河口沙坝地貌演化及动力机制,河口拦门沙发育演变,水质状况 监测分析等方面探讨黄河影响下的风暴潮、水质污染灾害严重的莱州湾西南近岸 区域的陆海相互作用特征。 结果表明,近岸为典型粉砂淤泥质的莱州湾西南海岸,其泥沙主要来源于近 岸与外海再悬浮供沙、黄河来沙。海区内泥沙运移格局主要为外海泥沙有由河口 口门外向河道运移的趋势、莱州湾西部近岸海区存在一股黄河南向的沿岸泥沙 流,其主要在淄脉沟口以北区域沉积。在正常天气条件下,河口及附近海区泥沙 含量较低,风暴潮期间本海区的悬浮泥沙含量将增加4-5 倍,最高可达10 倍, 其泥沙运移范围主要在河口与近岸海域。 小清河河口属陆海双相缓混合型,其河口堆积地貌主要包括河口沙嘴、沙坝 和河道拦门沙体。径、潮流携带泥沙分别在河口区和口门以内落淤形成拦门沙体 和堆积沙坎。在NE 向波浪和NE-E 向的涨、落潮流作用下,局地再悬浮的泥沙 和沿岸流携带的部分输沙堆积在河口北侧,形成沿落潮流方向延伸的河口沙嘴; 河口段河道南移过程中存在沙嘴、沙坝相互转化的自调整过程,并认为1979-1982 年和1997-2000 年两个时间段为自调整过程的中期。 根据小清河河口沙坝的发育过程及其发育特征,本文提出了该沙坝地貌发育 演变的概念模式。

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Two depositional models to account for Holocene gravel-dominated beach ridges covered by dunes, occurring on the northern coast of Ireland, are considered in the light of infrared-stimulated luminescence ages of sand units within beach ridges, and 14C ages from organic horizons in dunes. A new chronostratigraphy obtained from prograded beach ridges with covering dunes at Murlough, north-east Ireland, supports a model of mesoscale alternating sediment decoupling (ASD) on the upper beach, rather than macroscale sequential sediment sourcing to account for prograded beach ridges and covering dunes. The ASD model specifies storm or fair-weather sand beach ridges forming at high-tide positions (on an annual basis at minimum), which acted as deflationary sources for landward foredune development. Only a limited number of such late-Holocene beach ridges survive in the observed prograded series. Beach ridges only survive when capped by storm-generated gravel beaches that are deposited on a mesoscale time spacing of 50–130 years. The morphodynamic shift from a dissipative beach face for dune formation to a reflective beach face for gravel capping appears to be controlled by the beach sand volume falling to a level where reflective conditions can prevail. Sediment volume entering the beach is thought to have fluctuated as a function of a forced regression associated with the falling sea level from the mid-Holocene highstand (ca. 6000 cal. yr BP) identified in north-east Ireland. The prograded beach ridges dated at ca. 3000 to 2000 cal. yr BP indicate that the Holocene highstand’s regressive phase may have lasted longer than previously specified.

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The long-term morphodynamic ordering of gravel-dominated coastal systems (GDCS), many of which serve as coastal defences in northwest Europe, is dominated by extreme events that generate barrier crest overflow. An understanding of this morphodynamic ordering is fraught with several unresolved difficulties. These are related to the twin problems of the inadequacy of pertinent morphodynamic parameterisation and of obtaining data from modern shores enabling such parameterisation. Major uncertainties concern the timing of over-crest flow in terms of return period of extreme elevation; the intensity and structure of the overflow field; antecedent beachface characteristics in response to storms; the rate of relative sea-level change; tidal stage control; and barrier resistance to forcing, itself determined by a number of unknowns including barrier form and size, sediment size and mosaics, and barrier resilience. While generalised extreme value modelling may provide a means of characterising overwashing return-period and its variability, exceptional tsunami events are outside the scope of such modelling. The characterisation of GDCS morphodynamics in terms of the forcing extreme events will necessitate integrating some or all of these parameters into a single model.

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Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

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Climate changes are foreseen to produce a large impact in the morphology of estuaries and coastal systems. The morphology changes will subsequently drive changes in the biologic compartments of the systems and ultimately in their ecosystems. Sea level rise is one of the main factors controlling these changes. Morphologic changes can be better understood with the use of long term morphodynamic mathematical models.

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Dissertação de Mestrado, Estudos Marinhos e Costeiros, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2009

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The geomorphologic characteristics and lithostratigraphic units of the transition from the Tertiary filling stage to the Quaternary fluvial incision in the Vila Velha de Ródão area (Lower Tagus Basin, NE sector) are presented. Several morphodynamic episodes, which had an important tectonic control, were distinguished. The same main morphosedimentary processes can be identified in other areas of this important river basin. Five periods of Quaternary fluvial incision were characterized.

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Cette thèse examine les impacts sur la morphologie des tributaires du fleuve Saint-Laurent des changements dans leur débit et leur niveau de base engendrés par les changements climatiques prévus pour la période 2010–2099. Les tributaires sélectionnés (rivières Batiscan, Richelieu, Saint-Maurice, Saint-François et Yamachiche) ont été choisis en raison de leurs différences de taille, de débit et de contexte morphologique. Non seulement ces tributaires subissent-ils un régime hydrologique modifié en raison des changements climatiques, mais leur niveau de base (niveau d’eau du fleuve Saint-Laurent) sera aussi affecté. Le modèle morphodynamique en une dimension (1D) SEDROUT, à l’origine développé pour des rivières graveleuses en mode d’aggradation, a été adapté pour le contexte spécifique des tributaires des basses-terres du Saint-Laurent afin de simuler des rivières sablonneuses avec un débit quotidien variable et des fluctuations du niveau d’eau à l’aval. Un module pour simuler le partage des sédiments autour d’îles a aussi été ajouté au modèle. Le modèle ainsi amélioré (SEDROUT4-M), qui a été testé à l’aide de simulations à petite échelle et avec les conditions actuelles d’écoulement et de transport de sédiments dans quatre tributaires du fleuve Saint-Laurent, peut maintenant simuler une gamme de problèmes morphodynamiques de rivières. Les changements d’élévation du lit et d’apport en sédiments au fleuve Saint-Laurent pour la période 2010–2099 ont été simulés avec SEDROUT4-M pour les rivières Batiscan, Richelieu et Saint-François pour toutes les combinaisons de sept régimes hydrologiques (conditions actuelles et celles prédites par trois modèles de climat globaux (MCG) et deux scénarios de gaz à effet de serre) et de trois scénarios de changements du niveau de base du fleuve Saint-Laurent (aucun changement, baisse graduelle, baisse abrupte). Les impacts sur l’apport de sédiments et l’élévation du lit diffèrent entre les MCG et semblent reliés au statut des cours d’eau (selon qu’ils soient en état d’aggradation, de dégradation ou d’équilibre), ce qui illustre l’importance d’examiner plusieurs rivières avec différents modèles climatiques afin d’établir des tendances dans les effets des changements climatiques. Malgré le fait que le débit journalier moyen et le débit annuel moyen demeurent près de leur valeur actuelle dans les trois scénarios de MCG, des changements importants dans les taux de transport de sédiments simulés pour chaque tributaire sont observés. Ceci est dû à l’impact important de fortes crues plus fréquentes dans un climat futur de même qu’à l’arrivée plus hâtive de la crue printanière, ce qui résulte en une variabilité accrue dans les taux de transport en charge de fond. Certaines complications avec l’approche de modélisation en 1D pour représenter la géométrie complexe des rivières Saint-Maurice et Saint-François suggèrent qu’une approche bi-dimensionnelle (2D) devrait être sérieusement considérée afin de simuler de façon plus exacte la répartition des débits aux bifurcations autour des îles. La rivière Saint-François est utilisée comme étude de cas pour le modèle 2D H2D2, qui performe bien d’un point de vue hydraulique, mais qui requiert des ajustements pour être en mesure de pleinement simuler les ajustements morphologiques des cours d’eau.

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A common mode whereby destruction of coastal lowlands occurs is frontal erosion. The edge cliffing, nonetheless, is also an inherent aspect of salt marsh development in many northwest European tidal marshes. Quite a few geomorphologists in the earlier half of the past century recognized such edge erosion as a definite repetitive stage within an autocyclic mode of marsh growth. A shift in research priorities during the past decades (primarily because of coastal management concerns, however) has resulted in an enhanced focus on sediment-flux measurement campaigns on salt marshes. This, somewhat "object-oriented" strategy hindered any further development of the once-established autocyclic growth concept, which virtually has gone into oblivion in recent times. This work makes an attempt to resurrect the notion of autocyclicity by employing its premises to address edge erosion in tidal marshes. Through a review of intertidal morphosedimentology the underlying framework for autocyclicity is envisaged. The phenomenon is demonstrated in the Holocene salt marsh plain of Moricambe basin in NW England that displays several distinct phases of marsh retreat in the form of abandoned clifflets. The suite of abandoned shorelines and terraces has been identified in detailed field mapping that followed analysis of topographic maps and aerial photographs. Vertical trends in marsh plain sediments are recorded in trenches for signs of past marsh front movements. The characteristic sea level history of the area offers an opportunity to differentiate the morphodynamic variability induced in the autocyclic growth of the marsh plain in scenarios of rising and falling sea level and the accompanied change in sediment budget. The ideas gathered are incorporated to construct a conceptual model that links temporal extent of marsh erosion to inner tidal flat sediment budget and sea level tendency. The review leads to recognition of the necessity of adopting an holistic approach in the morphodynamic investigations where marshes should be treated as a component within the "marsh-mudflat system" as each element apparently modulates evolution of the other, with an eventual linkage to subtidal channels. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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Tidal Flats are important examples of extensive areas of natural environment that remain relatively unaffected by man. Monitoring of tidal flats is required for a variety of purposes. Remote sensing has become an established technique for the measurement of topography over tidal flats. A further requirement is to measure topographic changes in order to measure sediment budgets. To date there have been few attempts to make quantitative estimates of morphological change over tidal flat areas. This paper illustrates the use of remote sensing to measure quantitative and qualitative changes in the tidal flats of Morecambe Bay during the relatively long period 1991–2007. An understanding of the patterns of sediment transport within the Bay is of considerable interest for coastal management and defence purposes. Tidal asymmetry is considered to be the dominant cause of morphological change in the Bay, with the higher currents associated with the flood tide being the main agency moulding the channel system. Quantitative changes were measured by comparing a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) of the intertidal zone formed using the waterline technique applied to satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images from 1991–1994, to a second DEM constructed from airborne laser altimetry data acquired in 2005. Qualitative changes were studied using additional SAR images acquired since 2003. A significant movement of sediment from below Mean Sea Level (MSL) to above MSL was detected by comparing the two Digital Elevation Models, though the proportion of this change that could be ascribed to seasonal effects was not clear. Between 1991 and 2004 there was a migration of the Ulverston channel of the river Leven north-east by about 5 km, followed by the development of a straighter channel to the west, leaving the previous channel decoupled from the river. This is thought to be due to independent tidal and fluvial forcing mechanisms acting on the channel. The results demonstrate the effectiveness of remote sensing for measurement of long-term morphological change in tidal flat areas. An alternative use of waterlines as partial bathymetry for assimilation into a morphodynamic model of the coastal zone is also discussed.

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Recent research into flood modelling has primarily concentrated on the simulation of inundation flow without considering the influences of channel morphology. River channels are often represented by a simplified geometry that is implicitly assumed to remain unchanged during flood simulations. However, field evidence demonstrates that significant morphological changes can occur during floods to mobilise the boundary sediments. Despite this, the effect of channel morphology on model results has been largely unexplored. To address this issue, the impact of channel cross-section geometry and channel long-profile variability on flood dynamics is examined using an ensemble of a 1D-2D hydraulic model (LISFLOOD-FP) of the 1:2102 year recurrence interval floods in Cockermouth, UK, within an uncertainty framework. A series of hypothetical scenarios of channel morphology were constructed based on a simple velocity based model of critical entrainment. A Monte-Carlo simulation framework was used to quantify the effects of channel morphology together with variations in the channel and floodplain roughness coefficients, grain size characteristics, and critical shear stress on measures of flood inundation. The results showed that the bed elevation modifications generated by the simplistic equations reflected a good approximation of the observed patterns of spatial erosion despite its overestimation of erosion depths. The effect of uncertainty on channel long-profile variability only affected the local flood dynamics and did not significantly affect the friction sensitivity and flood inundation mapping. The results imply that hydraulic models generally do not need to account for within event morphodynamic changes of the type and magnitude modelled, as these have a negligible impact that is smaller than other uncertainties, e.g. boundary conditions. Instead morphodynamic change needs to happen over a series of events to become large enough to change the hydrodynamics of floods in supply limited gravel-bed rivers like the one used in this research.

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The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

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This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives

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The estuaries are important investigation zones of the actual morphodynamic and of depositional facies of recent geological history. They are constituted in important receptor means of the coastal area sediments, where the evolutionary processes occur quickly. They are also attractive means for the development of anthropic activities, which in a disordered way interfere in the active processes in the sedimentary balance of the coastal areas. Among the human interventions, the alterations of the depositional environment of mangroves in areas of tropical estuary is deserving relevance, whose implications for the environment estuarine and the coastal adjacent, they are still far to be known. Due to the interest of the sedimentologic component in the comprehension of the processes linked to the evolution of the environments estuarine and coastal adjacent, this work, aimed at the understanding of the morphodynamic coastal phenomena that comprise the region of estuarine influence of the River Curimataú / RN. It was also evaluated in the morphodynamic context the implications due to alterations of the depositional environment of mangrove by anthropic activity. The Curimataú Estuary, located in the south portion of the oriental coast of Rio Grande do Norte, in the last decades has been objective of the overwhelming occupation of the shrimp farm in areas of mangroves, which were implanted with perspectives of development in a short to medium period. On the other hand, the estuary and its region of coastal influence lacks enough information to subsidize the planning and reorganization more effective of the surrounding activities. Thus, it was intended with this work to give a contribution target tothe maintainable use of the coastal resources of this region. A series of studies using data of orbital and acoustic remote sensing, as of sediments sampling, were executed in the gutter of the estuary. The obtained results starting from the interpretation of bathymetric maps, echo sounder graphics and of distribution of sediments made possible the location of the estuary based in morpho-sedimentar criteria. The estuarine tidal flat was dissected in environments of intertidal mangroves, supratidal mangroves and apicuns with base in the integration of data of sensor optic and of radar following by the field control. The adjacent coast that is influenced by the Curimataú estuary, was segmented according to their geomorphologic characteristics, where each segment had a point of observation of the beach morphodynamic, during the period from january/2001 to february/2002. Once every month, beaches profiles, collections of sediments in the beach zones, as measurement of hydrodynamic parameters were executed. The results of the observations of the tidal environment showed that the area of estuarine influence of the Curimataú begins to suffer negative sedimentary taxes, where in some beaches, the erosive processes are already observed. The granulometric characteristics of the beach sediments start to tend for the increase of thin sand in the erosive periods. The destruction of the depositional environments of mangroves of the Curimataú estuary, to the construction of shrimp farms, can be providing the diminution of the tidal prism of the estuary, enlarging the effects of the local increasing of the sea level, through the smaller supplying of sediments to the adjacent coast. Besides this, it was verified the possibility of the sanding of the tidal channel in the margins of the destroyed areas of mangroves, where very high taxes of sedimentation of thin materials were estimated in case of these areas were preserve