Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Shrinking Violets is comprised of two half scale garments in laser cut silk organza, developed with a knotting device to allow for disassembly and reassembly. The first is a jacket in layered red organza including black storm flap details. The second is a vest in jade organza with circles of pink organza attached through a pattern of knots. Research Background This practice-led fashion design research sits within the field of Design for Sustainability (DfS) in fashion that seeks to mitigate the environmental and ethical impacts of fashion consumption and production. The research explores new systems of garment construction for DfS, and examines how these systems may involve ‘designing’ new user interactions with the garments. The garments’ construction system allows them to be disassembled and recycled or reassembled by users to form a new garment. Conventional garment design follows a set process of cutting and construction, with pattern pieces permanently machine-stitched together. Garments typically contain multiple fibre types; for example a jacket may be constructed from a shell of wool/polyester, an acetate lining, fusible interlinings, and plastic buttons. These complex inputs mean that textile recycling is highly labour intensive, first to separate the garment pieces and second to sort the multiple fibre types. This difficulty results in poor quality ‘shoddy’ comprised of many fibre types and unsuitable for new apparel, or in large quantities of recyclable textile waste sent to landfill (Hawley 2011). Design-led approaches that consider the garment’s end of life in the design process are a way of addressing this problem. In Gulich’s (2006) analysis, use of single materials is the most effective way to ensure ease of recycling, with multiple materials that can be detached next in effectiveness. Given the low rate of technological innovation in most apparel manufacturing (Ruiz 2011), a challenge for effective recycling is how to develop new manufacturing methods that allow for garments to be more easily disassembled at end-of-life. Research Contribution This project addresses the research question: How can design for disassembly be considered within the fashion design process? I have employed a practice-led methodology in which my design process leads the research, making use of methods of fashion design practice including garment and construction research, fabric and colour research, textile experimentation, drape, patternmaking, and illustration as well as more recent methods such as laser cutting. Interrogating the traditional approaches to garment construction is necessarily a technical process; however fashion design is as much about the aesthetic and desirability of a garment as it is about the garment’s pragmatics or utility. This requires a balance between the technical demands of designing for disassembly with the aesthetic demands of fashion. This led to the selection of luxurious, semi-transparent fabrics in bold floral colours that could be layered to create multiple visual effects, as well as the experimentation with laser cutting for new forms of finishing and fastening the fabrics together. Shrinking Violets makes two contributions to new knowledge in the area of design for sustainability within fashion. The first is in the technical development of apparel modularity through the system of laser cut holes and knots that also become a patterning device. The second contribution lies in the design of a system for users to engage with the garment through its ability to be easily reconstructed into a new form. Research Significance Shrinking Violets was exhibited at the State Library of Queensland’s Asia Pacific Design Library, 1-5 November 2015, as part of The International Association of Societies of Design Research’s (IASDR) biannual design conference. The work was chosen for display by a panel of experts, based on the criteria of design innovation and contribution to new knowledge in design. References Gulich, B. (2006). Designing textile products that are easy to recycle. In Y. Wang (Ed.), Recycling in Textiles (pp. 25-37). London: Woodhead. Hawley, J. M. (2011). Textile recycling options: exploring what could be. In A. Gwilt & T. Rissanen (Eds.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the way we make and use clothes (pp. 143 - 155). London: Earthscan. Ruiz, B. (2014). Global Apparel Manufacturing. Retrieved 10 August 2014, from http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/default.aspx?entid=470

Demi-glace-kastikepohjan valmistuksen optimointi ylipainekeittomenetelmälle

Tämän tutkimuksen kirjallisuusosan tavoitteena oli selvittää perinteisen kastikepohjan valmistukseen ja valmistuksen kokonaisvaltaiseen onnistumiseen vaikuttavia seikkoja. Lisäksi käsiteltiin kastikepohjan valmistukseen liittyviä ympäristö- ja energia-asioita, kuten eläinperäisten sivutuotteiden kierrätysmahdollisuuksia. Kokeellisessa osassa tutkimuksen keskeinen lähtökohta oli pyrkiä löytämään ratkaisu ylipainekeittomenetelmään liittyvään kastikepohjan liemiaineksen sameutumisongelmaan. Tutkimuksessa haluttiin löytää syyt sameuden muodostumiseen luiden painekeitossa (max. 1,5 bar). Näin pyrittiin selvittämään keinot sameuden syntymisen estämiseen tai tuotteesta poistamiseen. Ratkaisua etsittiin sekä keittoaika-paine-kombinaatiosta että proteolyyttisen entsyymivalmisteen käytöstä. Tavoitteena oli ulkonäöltään kirkas ja kuiva-ainepitoisuudeltaan mahdollisimman korkea naudanmakuinen demi-glace-kastikepohjaliemi. Liemiaineksista tarkasteltiin kuiva-aine-, kokonaisproteiini- ja sidekudosproteiinipitoisuuksia, pH-arvoja sekä sameutta, ja vertailtiin näitä tuloksia käytettyihin valmistusmenetelmiin ja -olosuhteisiin. Lisäksi otettiin selvää lämmöntalteenoton parantamis-mahdollisuuksista. Tutkimuksessa valmistetun kastikepohjaliemen kuiva-aine koostui pääasiassa proteiineista. Liemen valmistuksessa suuremmalla paineella päästiin hieman nopeammin samoihin kuiva-ainepitoisuuksiin kuin matalammalla paineella. Samoin tapahtui entsyymiä käytettäessä kuin käyttämättä jätettäessä. Tämän tutkimuksen perusteella korkeaa kuiva-ainepitoisuutta tavoiteltaessa kastikepohjaliemen valmistuksessa on valittava korkean sidekudosproteiinin tai sameuden väliltä. Ylipainekeitolla luista saatiin irti lähes pelkästään sidekudosproteiinia, koska luita kuumennettaessa vain kollageeni liukeni veteen muiden proteiinien saostuessa. Lämmöntalteenottojärjestelmien rakentaminen pieneen elintarviketeollisuusyritykseen voi olla kannattamatonta, koska investointikustannuksia ei välttämättä pystytä maksamaan takaisin. Energiatehokkuuden parantaminen pienessä elintarviketeollisuusyrityksessä on haastavaa, mutta kuitenkin mahdollista ammattilaisten tekemien tarkkojen laskelmien ja arviointien avulla.

Análisis de la fabricación de las tijas de una motocicleta de competición. Prototipo

[ES]Este trabajo fin de grado, TFG en adelante, consiste en el análisis de la fabricación de las tijas de una motocicleta de competición Motostudent. Se trata de conseguir fabricar las tijas de una manera óptima, tanto en que su material como el proceso de fabricación sea el más adecuado para su función siendo, además, lo más económico posible. Para llevar a cabo este trabajo es necesario conocer las cualidades que una tija debe cubrir en una motocicleta de competición. A partir de dichas cualidades se selecciona el material idóneo de entre otros muchos, estudiando las propiedades fiscas, químicas y mecánicas de cada uno de ellos. También se hará un estudio de dos alternativas de fabricación posibles, electroerosión y arranque de viruta con herramienta, para a posteriori elegir la más indicada. La idea no es construir un diseño final para la fabricación, sino un prototipo sobre el cual hacer las pruebas oportunas y posteriormente realizar cambios y mejoras para posteriores ediciones. El presente proyecto marcará las pautas de diseño y el proceso a seguir durante la fabricación de las tijas que el equipo representante de la Escuela técnica superior de Bilbao, ETSIB en adelante, empleará en la futura competición.

Adaptive modally addressed liquid crystal lenses

An adaptive lens, which has variable focus and is rapidly controllable with simple low-power electronics, has numerous applications in optical telecommunications devices, 3D display systems, miniature cameras and adaptive optics. The University of Durham is developing a range of adaptive liquid crystal lenses, and here we describe work on construction of modal liquid crystal lenses. This type of lens was first described by Naumov [1] and further developed by others [24]. In this system, a spatially varying and circularly symmetric voltage profile can be generated across a liquid-crystal cell, generating a lens-like refractive index profile. Such devices are simple in design, and do not require a pixellated structure. The shape and focussing power of the lens can be controlled by the variation of applied electric field and frequency. Results show adaptive lenses operating at optical wavelengths with continuously variable focal lengths from infinity to 70 cm. Switching speeds are of the order of 1 second between focal positions. Manufacturing methods of our adaptive lenses are presented, together with the latest results to the performance of these devices.

Investigation Into The Effect of Varying L-leucine Concentration on the product characteristics of Spray-dried Liposome Powders

Spray-dried formulations offer an attractive delivery system for administration of drug encapsulated into liposomes to the lung, but can suffer from low encapsulation efficiency and poor aerodynamic properties. In this paper the effect of the concentration of the anti-adherent l-leucine was investigated in tandem with the protectants sucrose and trehalose. Two manufacturing methods were compared in terms of their ability to offer small liposomal size, low polydispersity and high encapsulation of the drug indometacin. Unexpectedly sucrose offered the best protection to the liposomes during the spray drying process, although formulations containing trehalose formed products with the best powder characteristics for pulmonary delivery; high glass transition values, fine powder fraction and yield. It was also found that l-leucine contributed positively to the characteristics of the powders, but that it should be used with care as above the optimum concentration of 0.5% (w/w) the size and polydispersity index increased significantly for both disaccharide formulations. The method of liposome preparation had no effect on the stability or encapsulation efficiency of spray-dried powders containing optimal protectant and anti-adherent. Using l-leucine at concentrations higher than the optimum level caused instability in the reconstituted liposomes.

Glued-in Rods

Glued-in rods (GiR) have been successfully used for both constructing new and strengthening existing timber structures. The research and development of connecting and strengthening timber structural elements with GiR has been going on since the 1980s. However, agreement regarding design criteria for these applications has not been reached. Today, some few technical approvals for specific adhesives suitable to GiR exist, but an approach for the design of connections or reinforcement with GiR has not been included in the European design code EN 1995 so far. Therefore, it is desired to gather the current state of knowledge to enable application in practice of the existing and documented knowledge and experience. This state-of-the-art review (STAR) summarises results from research done regarding connections and reinforcement with GiR. The review considers manufacturing methods, mechanisms and parameters governing the performance and strength of GiR, theoretical approaches and existing design recommendations. For GiR applied as reinforcement similar rules and requirements apply as for GiR being used as connectors.

Rotational moulding

Rotational moulding promises designers attractive economics and a low-pressure process. The benefits of rotational moulding are compared here with other manufacturing methods such as injection and blow moulding.

Strengthening of timber structures with glued-in rods

The research and development of connecting and strengthening timber structural elements with glued-inrods (GiR) has been ongoing since the 1980s. Despite many successful applications in practice, agreement regarding design criteria has not been reached. This state-of-the-art review summarises results from both research and practical applications regarding connections and reinforcement with GiR. The review considers manufacturing methods, mechanisms and parameters governing the performance and strength of GiR, theoretical approaches to estimate their load-bearing capacity and existing design recommendations.

Pesulaitteen horisontaalisen harjan nostomekanismin kehittäminen

Työssä on pyritty löytämään ratkaisuvaihtoehtoja pesulaitteen horisontaalisen harjan nostomekanismin parantamiseksi. Nostomekanismia pyrittiin kehittämään vähemmän huoltoa vaativaksi, toimintavarmemmaksi sekä kustannuksiltaan halvemmaksi. Uusia vaihtoehtoja mekanismille pyrittiin löytämään järjestelmällisen ideoinnin avulla, käyttäen hyödyksi alan kirjallisuutta, käytössä olevia pesulaitteita sekä jokapäiväisessä elämässä eteen tulleita havaintoja. Korroosiota aiheuttavat olosuhteet, horisontaalisen harjakokoonpanon pitkä liikerata sekä paino asettavat erityisvaatimuksia uudelle mekanismille. Lisäksi mekanismin täytyy liikuttaa harjaa vertikaalisessa suunnassa vakiona pysyvällä nopeudella. Valittuja ratkaisuvaihtoehtoja tarkasteltiin pistearvioinnin avulla ennen jatkokehittelyn aloittamista. Alustavassa komponenttien mitoituksessa pyrittiin mekanismin komponenteille löytämään oikea valmistusmateriaali sekä komponenttien geometriset mitat. Mekanismin valmistuskustannuksia eri valmistusmenetelmien kesken kartoitettiin yhteydenotoilla eri konepajojen kanssa. Alustavien kustannuslaskelmien perusteella jatkokehittelyyn otetun mekanismin kustannukset on 70 prosenttia pienemmät kuin nykyisen mekanismin kustannukset. Osien vähyys sekä mekanismin yksinkertaisuus lisää nostomekanismin luotettavuutta sekä vähentää tarvittavia huoltotoimenpiteitä.

Portaferramentas para torneamento com refrigeração interna baseada na mudança de fase do fluido

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Utilização de diferentes métodos de lubri-refrigeração na retificação cilíndrica externa de mergulho de cerâmica avançada com rebolo diamantado

Pós-graduação em Ciência e Tecnologia de Materiais - FC

Fabrication techniques for ocular prostheses: an overview

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Exposição de pacientes com síndrome de dor miofascial (SDM) à capsaicina: desenvolvimento de forma farmacêutica de uso tópico com possível ação analgésica

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Exposição de pacientes com síndrome de dor miofascial (SDM) à capsaicina: desenvolvimento de forma farmacêutica de uso tópico com possível ação analgésica

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Biowaiver monographs for immediate-release solid oral dosage forms: Stavudine

Literature data relevant to the decision to allow a waiver of in vivo bioequivalence (BE) testing for the approval of immediate-release (IR) solid oral dosage forms containing stavudine (d4T) are reviewed. According to Biopharmaceutics Classification System (BCS), d4T can be assigned to BCS class I. No problems with BE of IR d4T formulations containing different excipients and produced by different manufacturing methods have been reported and, hence, the risk of bioinequivalence caused by these factors appears to be low. Furthermore, d4T has a wide therapeutic index. It is concluded that a biowaiver is appropriate for IR solid oral dosage forms containing d4T as the single active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) provided that (a) the test product contains only excipients present in the IR d4T drug products that have been approved in a number of countries for the same dosage form, and (b) both test product and its comparator are either very rapidly dissolving or rapidly dissolving with similarity of dissolution profiles demonstrated at pH 1.2, 4.5, and 6.8. (c) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:1016, 2012