Finite-difference schemes compared for wave-deformation characteristics in mathematical modeling of two-dimensional long-wave propagation /

"October 1970."

Long wave studies /

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Parameters affecting the performance of wetting and drying in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

The marsh porosity method, a type of thin slot wetting and drying algorithm in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model, is discussed and analyzed to assess model performance. Tests, including comparisons to simple examples and theoretical calculations, examine the effects of varying the marsh porosity parameters. The findings demonstrate that the wetting and drying concept of marsh porosity, often used in finite element hydrodynamic modeling, can behave in a more complex manner than initially expected.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Modulational instability analysis of surface-waves in the Bénard-Marangoni phenomenon

By using the long-wave approximation, a system of coupled evolutions equations for the bulk velocity and the surface perturbations of a Bénard-Marangoni system is obtained. It includes nonlinearity, dispersion and dissipation, and it is interpreted as a dissipative generalization of the usual Boussinesq system of equations. Then, by considering that the Marangoni number is near the critical value M = -12, we show that the modulation of the Boussinesq waves is described by a perturbed Nonlinear Schrödinger Equation, and we study the conditions under which a Benjamin-Feir instability could eventually set in. The results give sufficient conditions for stability, but are inconclusive about the existence or not of a Benjamin-Feir instability in the long-wave limit. © 1995.

Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Quasi-cylindrical approximation to the swirling flow in an atomizer chamber

A quasi-cylindrical approximation is used to analyse the axisymmetric swirling flow of a liquid with a hollow air core in the chamber of a pressure swirl atomizer. The liquid is injected into the chamber with an azimuthal velocity component through a number of slots at the periphery of one end of the chamber, and flows out as an anular sheet through a central orifice at the other end, following a conical convergence of the chamber wall. An effective inlet condition is used to model the effects of the slots and the boundary layer that develops at the nearby endwall of the chamber. An analysis is presented of the structure of the liquid sheet at the end of the exit orifice, where the flow becomes critical in the sense that upstream propagation of long-wave perturbations ceases to be possible. This nalysis leads to a boundary condition at the end of the orifice that is an extension of the condition of maximum flux used with irrotational models of the flow. As is well known, the radial pressure gradient induced by the swirling flow in the bulk of the chamber causes the overpressure that drives the liquid towards the exit orifice, and also leads to Ekman pumping in the boundary layers of reduced azimuthal velocity at the convergent wall of the chamber and at the wall opposite to the exit orifice. The numerical results confirm the important role played by the boundary layers. They make the thickness of the liquid sheet at the end of the orifice larger than predicted by rrotational models, and at the same time tend to decrease the overpressure required to pass a given flow rate through the chamber, because the large axial velocity in the boundary layers takes care of part of the flow rate. The thickness of the boundary layers increases when the atomizer constant (the inverse of a swirl number, proportional to the flow rate scaled with the radius of the exit orifice and the circulation around the air core) decreases. A minimum value of this parameter is found below which the layer of reduced azimuthal velocity around the air core prevents the pressure from increasing and steadily driving the flow through the exit orifice. The effects of other parameters not accounted for by irrotational models are also analysed in terms of their influence on the boundary layers.

Numerical solution of some nonlocal, nonlinear dispersive wave equations

We use a spectral method to solve numerically two nonlocal, nonlinear, dispersive, integrable wave equations, the Benjamin-Ono and the Intermediate Long Wave equations. The proposed numerical method is able to capture well the dynamics of the solutions; we use it to investigate the behaviour of solitary wave solutions of the equations with special attention to those, among the properties usually connected with integrability, for which there is at present no analytic proof. Thus we study in particular the resolution property of arbitrary initial profiles into sequences of solitary waves for both equations and clean interaction of Benjamin-Ono solitary waves. We also verify numerically that the behaviour of the solution of the Intermediate Long Wave equation as the model parameter tends to the infinite depth limit is the one predicted by the theory.

Error estimates for a fully discrete spectral scheme for a class of nonlinear, nonlocal dispersive wave equations

We analyze a fully discrete spectral method for the numerical solution of the initial- and periodic boundary-value problem for two nonlinear, nonlocal, dispersive wave equations, the Benjamin–Ono and the Intermediate Long Wave equations. The equations are discretized in space by the standard Fourier–Galerkin spectral method and in time by the explicit leap-frog scheme. For the resulting fully discrete, conditionally stable scheme we prove an L2-error bound of spectral accuracy in space and of second-order accuracy in time.

Plane wave discontinuous Galerkin methods for the 2D Helmholtz equation: analysis of the $p$-version

Plane wave discontinuous Galerkin (PWDG) methods are a class of Trefftz-type methods for the spatial discretization of boundary value problems for the Helmholtz operator $-\Delta-\omega^2$, $\omega>0$. They include the so-called ultra weak variational formulation from [O. Cessenat and B. Després, SIAM J. Numer. Anal., 35 (1998), pp. 255–299]. This paper is concerned with the a priori convergence analysis of PWDG in the case of $p$-refinement, that is, the study of the asymptotic behavior of relevant error norms as the number of plane wave directions in the local trial spaces is increased. For convex domains in two space dimensions, we derive convergence rates, employing mesh skeleton-based norms, duality techniques from [P. Monk and D. Wang, Comput. Methods Appl. Mech. Engrg., 175 (1999), pp. 121–136], and plane wave approximation theory.

Modeling electrocortical activity through improved local approximations of integral neural field equations

Neural field models of firing rate activity typically take the form of integral equations with space-dependent axonal delays. Under natural assumptions on the synaptic connectivity we show how one can derive an equivalent partial differential equation (PDE) model that properly treats the axonal delay terms of the integral formulation. Our analysis avoids the so-called long-wavelength approximation that has previously been used to formulate PDE models for neural activity in two spatial dimensions. Direct numerical simulations of this PDE model show instabilities of the homogeneous steady state that are in full agreement with a Turing instability analysis of the original integral model. We discuss the benefits of such a local model and its usefulness in modeling electrocortical activity. In particular, we are able to treat “patchy” connections, whereby a homogeneous and isotropic system is modulated in a spatially periodic fashion. In this case the emergence of a “lattice-directed” traveling wave predicted by a linear instability analysis is confirmed by the numerical simulation of an appropriate set of coupled PDEs.

Balance model for equatorial long waves

Geophysical fluid models often support both fast and slow motions. As the dynamics are often dominated by the slow motions, it is desirable to filter out the fast motions by constructing balance models. An example is the quasi geostrophic (QG) model, which is used widely in meteorology and oceanography for theoretical studies, in addition to practical applications such as model initialization and data assimilation. Although the QG model works quite well in the mid-latitudes, its usefulness diminishes as one approaches the equator. Thus far, attempts to derive similar balance models for the tropics have not been entirely successful as the models generally filter out Kelvin waves, which contribute significantly to tropical low-frequency variability. There is much theoretical interest in the dynamics of planetary-scale Kelvin waves, especially for atmospheric and oceanic data assimilation where observations are generally only of the mass field and thus do not constrain the wind field without some kind of diagnostic balance relation. As a result, estimates of Kelvin wave amplitudes can be poor. Our goal is to find a balance model that includes Kelvin waves for planetary-scale motions. Using asymptotic methods, we derive a balance model for the weakly nonlinear equatorial shallow-water equations. Specifically we adopt the ‘slaving’ method proposed by Warn et al. (Q. J. R. Meteorol. Soc., vol. 121, 1995, pp. 723–739), which avoids secular terms in the expansion and thus can in principle be carried out to any order. Different from previous approaches, our expansion is based on a long-wave scaling and the slow dynamics is described using the height field instead of potential vorticity. The leading-order model is equivalent to the truncated long-wave model considered previously (e.g. Heckley & Gill, Q. J. R. Meteorol. Soc., vol. 110, 1984, pp. 203–217), which retains Kelvin waves in addition to equatorial Rossby waves. Our method allows for the derivation of higher-order models which significantly improve the representation of Rossby waves in the isotropic limit. In addition, the ‘slaving’ method is applicable even when the weakly nonlinear assumption is relaxed, and the resulting nonlinear model encompasses the weakly nonlinear model. We also demonstrate that the method can be applied to more realistic stratified models, such as the Boussinesq model.

On the generalized eigenvalue problem for the Rossby wave vertical velocity in the presence of mean flow and topography

In a series of papers, Killworth and Blundell have proposed to study the effects of a background mean flow and topography on Rossby wave propagation by means of a generalized eigenvalue problem formulated in terms of the vertical velocity, obtained from a linearization of the primitive equations of motion. However, it has been known for a number of years that this eigenvalue problem contains an error, which Killworth was prevented from correcting himself by his unfortunate passing and whose correction is therefore taken up in this note. Here, the author shows in the context of quasigeostrophic (QG) theory that the error can ulti- mately be traced to the fact that the eigenvalue problem for the vertical velocity is fundamentally a non- linear one (the eigenvalue appears both in the numerator and denominator), unlike that for the pressure. The reason that this nonlinear term is lacking in the Killworth and Blundell theory comes from neglecting the depth dependence of a depth-dependent term. This nonlinear term is shown on idealized examples to alter significantly the Rossby wave dispersion relation in the high-wavenumber regime but is otherwise irrelevant in the long-wave limit, in which case the eigenvalue problems for the vertical velocity and pressure are both linear. In the general dispersive case, however, one should first solve the generalized eigenvalue problem for the pressure vertical structure and, if needed, diagnose the vertical velocity vertical structure from the latter.

Multiple-time higher-order perturbation analysis of the regularized long-wavelength equation

By considering the long-wavelength limit of the regularized long wave (RLW) equation, we study its multiple-time higher-order evolution equations. As a first result, the equations of the Korteweg-de Vries hierarchy are shown to play a crucial role in providing a secularity-free perturbation theory in the specific case of a solitary-wave solution. Then, as a consequence, we show that the related perturbative series can be summed and gives exactly the solitary-wave solution of the RLW equation. Finally, some comments and considerations are made on the N-soliton solution, as well as on the limitations of applicability of the multiple-scale method in obtaining uniform perturbative series.