Trajes espaciales: la vestimenta como proyecto arquitectónico

¿Qué son los TRAJES ESPACIALES? El término Trajes Espaciales da nombre al “equipo de inmersión” 1 necesario para garantizar las condiciones de habitabilidad en determinados entornos o circunstancias. En diferentes coyunturas sociales, políticas o ambientales el formato convencional de la arquitectura se vuelve limitado o poco eficaz. Determinadas configuraciones de “vida a la intemperie” 2, asociadas a necesidades de protección, energía, comunicación, socialización…, en situaciones de alta emancipación e itinerancia, solicitan una reflexión sobre la posible portabilidad, o más concretamente, sobre la idoneidad del uso 3 de las condiciones arquitectónicas. La tesis pretende acotar o definir un no reconocido ámbito de los recursos proyectuales del arquitecto dirigido a la confección de las más cercanas envolventes corporales entendidas como elementos arquitectónicos. Casa y vestimenta, citando a Marshall McLuhan, se identifican en un discurso que entiende ambas esferas como “extensiones de la piel” 4 que garantizan el control energético y la definición social del sujeto que las habita. En determinados momentos el arquitecto ha tenido que desestimar como principal herramienta de trabajo la construcción de edificios, para abordar ciertas demandas sociales. La tesis pretende demostrar cómo el diseño de trajes ha sido en ocasiones una estrategia proyectual del repertorio de la arquitectura. Su aportación es la de abordar el mundo de la vestimenta más allá del simple ejercicio estilístico, defendiendo estas construcciones como un elemento capaz de hacer habitable un determinado entorno. Este acercamiento ha permitido a los arquitectos ensayar en los trajes lo que posteriormente desarrollarían en sus edificios. Temas tratados por la arquitectura como higienismo, ornamento, estandarización, pliegue… han encontrado en la escala de la vestimenta su expresión más pura. El diseño de estos trajes, su pertinencia y su confección como parte del proyecto arquitectónico, conformará el hilo conductor de esta tesis. ABSTRACT The term spacesuits tries to define the “diving equipment” 5 necessary to ensure the living conditions in certain environments or circumstances. In specific social, political or environmental circumstances, the architectural standard format becomes limited or ineffective. Some configurations of “life outdoor” 6, associated with protection, energy, communication and socialization needs, in situations of high emancipation and roaming, seek a reflection on the possible portability, or more specifically, on the appropriateness of wearing the architectural features. The thesis aims to limit or define an unrecognized field from the resources of the architect focused on body emvelopes as architectural elements. House and clothing, quoting Marshall McLuhan, are matched in a speech that understand both spheres as “extensions of the skins” 7, to ensure energy control and social definition of the subject who inhabit them. At times, the architect has had to dismiss the construction of buildings as the main tool for working, to address certain social demands. The thesis aims to demonstrate how the costume design is sometimes a projectual strategy in the repertoire of architecture. Its contribution splits with Fashion as a mere stylistic exercise, defending the dress as an artefact capable of making livable a certain environment. This approach has allowed architects to explore at costumes what they develope in their buildings later. Topics covered by the architecture as hygienism, ornament, standardization, folding... have found in the scale of the dress its purest expression. The design of these suits, their techniques and their relevance as part of the architectural project, will form the core of this thesis.

Designing dress accessories as an occupation.

"Art schools and trade schools which include courses for designing and construction of one or more dress accessories": p. 25-26; "Colleges and universities offering instruction in designing of accessories": p. 27-29.

Precision draping; a simple method for developing designing talent.

Mode of access: Internet.

The Hollywood effect : a comparative study of costume in Australia and the Proposition

This paper compares costuming practices in Baz Luhrmann’s Australia (2008) and John Hillcoat’s The Proposition (2005) and argues that high production values, such as in the blockbuster Australia, are not neutral mechanisms of production, but powerful prescriptive elements which do not result in a successful representation of cultural specificity. Australia is a typical blockbuster, it employs a large number of extras, it features compelling landscape shots, has been shot across four different locations and sets, and, importantly, is an international production with the 20th Century Fox. The film’s costumes were designed by Catherine Martin, who received an Oscar nomination in 2009. While global exposure of fashion in film and through celebrities’ endorsements has consolidated a historical synergy between the fashion industry and Hollywood, the Australian film and fashion industries have had a very limited exchange. Baz Luhrmann’s film is Australia’s first instance of promo-costuming and use of tie-in labels (Ferragamo, R.M.Williams, Prada, Paspaley). Catherine Martin thoroughly researched 1930s women’s wear, indigenous and stockmen’s clothing, and set up to make all costumes with a large team of costumiers and seamstresses, striving for authenticity. The Proposition won its costume designer Margot Wilson an AFI in 2005 for best costume, but compared to Australia the story, location and costumes are far harsher. Filmed around Winton in far west Queensland, the director John Hillcoat and Director of Photography Benoit Delhomme were insistent about realism, and emphasising the harshness of the Australian landscape. The realism of the costumes was derived from the fabrics and manufacturing, as well as the way they were shot, with the actors often wearing two or three layers of heavy wool during days of shooting in 50 degree heat, and the details of making and breaking down. The implication is that both films are culturally specific as they both deal with an Australian story. However, Australia is clearly produced according to a Hollywood blockbuster model, and closely matches Hollywood’s narrative and aesthetic characteristics, while The Proposition is a more modest film that eschews these conventions of beauty and glossed history. Despite its western genre-orientation, The Proposition is more successful than Australia when it comes to costuming, because its costumes are not only functional to the narrative, but, in Roland Barthes’ words, they also fulfil a prestation. This prestation highlights the social and cultural conflicts on which colonial Australia was founded, instead of gilding, and gliding, over them.

Design and Crime

L'articolo è disponibile anche tradotto in italiano. Cfr. Hal Foster, Design & Crime, Milano, Postmedia Books, 2003, pp. 23-32.