994 resultados para Coastal engineering


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This paper describes the implementation of a 3D variational (3D-Var) data assimilation scheme for a morphodynamic model applied to Morecambe Bay, UK. A simple decoupled hydrodynamic and sediment transport model is combined with a data assimilation scheme to investigate the ability of such methods to improve the accuracy of the predicted bathymetry. The inverse forecast error covariance matrix is modelled using a Laplacian approximation which is calibrated for the length scale parameter required. Calibration is also performed for the Soulsby-van Rijn sediment transport equations. The data used for assimilation purposes comprises waterlines derived from SAR imagery covering the entire period of the model run, and swath bathymetry data collected by a ship-borne survey for one date towards the end of the model run. A LiDAR survey of the entire bay carried out in November 2005 is used for validation purposes. The comparison of the predictive ability of the model alone with the model-forecast-assimilation system demonstrates that using data assimilation significantly improves the forecast skill. An investigation of the assimilation of the swath bathymetry as well as the waterlines demonstrates that the overall improvement is initially large, but decreases over time as the bathymetry evolves away from that observed by the survey. The result of combining the calibration runs into a pseudo-ensemble provides a higher skill score than for a single optimized model run. A brief comparison of the Optimal Interpolation assimilation method with the 3D-Var method shows that the two schemes give similar results.

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Numerical modeling of the interaction among waves and coastal structures is a challenge due to the many nonlinear phenomena involved, such as, wave propagation, wave transformation with water depth, interaction among incident and reflected waves, run-up / run-down and wave overtopping. Numerical models based on Lagrangian formulation, like SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), allow simulating complex free surface flows. The validation of these numerical models is essential, but comparing numerical results with experimental data is not an easy task. In the present paper, two SPH numerical models, SPHysics LNEC and SPH UNESP, are validated comparing the numerical results of waves interacting with a vertical breakwater, with data obtained in physical model tests made in one of the LNEC's flume. To achieve this validation, the experimental set-up is determined to be compatible with the Characteristics of the numerical models. Therefore, the flume dimensions are exactly the same for numerical and physical model and incident wave characteristics are identical, which allows determining the accuracy of the numerical models, particularly regarding two complex phenomena: wave-breaking and impact loads on the breakwater. It is shown that partial renormalization, i.e. renormalization applied only for particles near the structure, seems to be a promising compromise and an original method that allows simultaneously propagating waves, without diffusion, and modeling accurately the pressure field near the structure.

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Includes indexes.

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"January 1981."

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A comprehensive engineering analysis of the coastal sediment transport processes along a 42-kilometer segment of the North Carolina shoreline from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher is presented. Included in the analysis is an interpretation of the littoral processes, longshore transport, and the behavior and success of beach nourishment projects at Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina. The historical position of the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours, relative to a fixed base line, is plotted for the period between 1964 and 1975. An equivalent volumetric erosion or accretion between successive surveys is determined by multiplying the average excursion distance of the contours by a constant of proportionality. The plots of excursion distance versus time for the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours also show the time response of the beach fills. This response is described by a mathematical function. The alongshore components of wave-induced energy flux are also determined within the study area through wave refraction analysis. This information, together with the information on volumetric change, is used in a sediment budget analysis to determine the coefficient of alongshore sediment transport and the inlet trapping characteristics. (Author).

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"January 1976."

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Includes indexes.

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"May 1976."

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"August 1988."

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Includes abstract.