Coastal and shelf circulation in the vicinity of Camamu Bay (14 degrees S), Eastern Brazilian Shelf

The Camamu Bay (CMB) is located on the narrowest shelf along the South American coastline and close to the formation of two major Western Boundary Currents (WBC), the Brazil/North Brazil Current (BC/NBC). These WBC flow close to the shelf break/slope region and are expected to interact with the shelf currents due to the narrowness of the shelf. The shelf circulation is investigated in terms of current variability based on an original data set covering the 2002-2003 austral summer and the 2003 austral autumn. The Results show that the currents at the shelf are mainly wind driven, experiencing a complete reversal between seasons due to a similar change in the wind field. Currents at the inner-shelf have a polarized nature, with the alongshore velocity mostly driven by forcings at the sub-inertial frequency band and the cross-shore velocity mainly supra-inertially forced, with the tidal currents playing an important role at this direction. The contribution of the forcing mechanisms at the mid-shelf changes between seasons. During the summer, forcings in the two frequency bands are important to drive the currents with a similar contribution of the tidal currents. On the other hand, during the autumn season, the alongshore velocity is mostly driven by sub-inertial forcings and tidally driven currents still remain important in both directions. Moreover, during the autumn when the stratification is weaker, the response of the shelf currents to the wind forcing presents a barotropic signature. The meso-scale processes related to the WBC flowing at the shelf/slope region also affect the circulation within the shelf, which contribute to cause significant current reversals during the autumn season. Currents at the shelf-estuary connection are clearly supra-inertially forced with the tidal currents playing a key role in the generation of the along-channel velocities. The sub-inertial forcings at this location act mainly to drive the weak ebb currents which were highly correlated with both local and remote wind forcing during the summer season. (C) 2010 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Currents controlling sedimentation, deposits recording palaeo-hydrodynamics – lessons from the continental shelf-slope system off SE South America

The continental margin off SE South America hosts one of the world’s most energetic hydrodynamic regimes but also the second largest drainage system of the continent. Both, the ocean current system as well as the fluvial runoff are strongly controlled by the atmospheric circulation modes over the region. The distribution pattern of particular types of sediments on shelf and slope and the long-term built-up of depositional elements within the overall margin architecture are, thus, the product of both, seasonal to millennial variability as well as long-term environmental trends. This talk presents how the combination of different methodological approaches can be used to obtain a comprehensive picture of the variability of a shelf and upper-slope hydrodynamic system during Holocene times. The particular methods applied are: (a) Margin-wide stratigraphic information to elucidate the role of sea level for the oceanographic and sedimentary systems since the last glacial maximum; (b) Palaeoceanographic sediment proxies combined with palaeo-temperature indicating isotopes of bivalve shells to trace lateral shifts in the coastal oceanography (particularly of the shelf front) during the Holocene; (c) Neodymium isotopes to identify the shelf sediment transport routes resulting from the current regime; (d) Sedimentological/geochemical data to show the efficient mechanism of sand export from the shelf to the open ocean; (e) Diatom assemblages and sediment element distributions indicating palaeo-salinity and the changing marine influence to illustrate the Plata runoff history. Sea level has not only controlled the overall configuration of the shelf but also the position of the main sediment routes from the continent towards the ocean. The shelf front has shifted frequently since the last glacial times probably resulting from both, changes in the Westerly Winds intensity and in the shelf width itself. Remarkable is a southward shift of this front during the past two centuries possibly related to anthropogenic influences on the atmosphere. The oceanographic regime with its prominent hydrographic boundaries led to a clear separation of sedimentary provinces since shelf drowning. It is especially the shelf front which enhances shelf sediment export through a continuous high sand supply to the uppermost slope. Finally, the Plata River does not continuously provide sediment to the shelf but shows significant climate-related changes in discharge during the past centuries. Starting from these findings, three major fields of research should, in general, be further developed in future: (i) The immediate interaction of the hydrodynamic and sedimentary systems to close the gaps between deposit information and modern oceanographic dynamics; (ii) Material budget calculations for the marginal ocean system in terms of material fluxes, storage/retention capacities, and critical thresholds; (iii) The role of human activity on the atmospheric, oceanographic and solid material systems to unravel natural vs. anthropogenic effects and feedback mechanisms

Study of the circulation processes in the northern Adriatic sea - coastal area and Venice lagoon inlets

This work is a detailed study of hydrodynamic processes in a defined area, the littoral in front of the Venice Lagoon and its inlets, which are complex morphological areas of interconnection. A finite element hydrodynamic model of the Venice Lagoon and the Adriatic Sea has been developed in order to study the coastal current patterns and the exchanges at the inlets of the Venice Lagoon. This is the first work in this area that tries to model the interaction dynamics, running together a model for the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea. First the barotropic processes near the inlets of the Venice Lagoon have been studied. Data from more than ten tide gauges displaced in the Adriatic Sea have been used in the calibration of the simulated water levels. To validate the model results, empirical flux data measured by ADCP probes installed inside the inlets of Lido and Malamocco have been used and the exchanges through the three inlets of the Venice Lagoon have been analyzed. The comparison between modelled and measured fluxes at the inlets outlined the efficiency of the model to reproduce both tide and wind induced water exchanges between the sea and the lagoon. As a second step, also small scale processes around the inlets that connect the Venice lagoon with the Northern Adriatic Sea have been investigated by means of 3D simulations. Maps of vorticity have been produced, considering the influence of tidal flows and wind stress in the area. A sensitivity analysis has been carried out to define the importance of the advection and of the baroclinic pressure gradients in the development of vortical processes seen along the littoral close to the inlets. Finally a comparison with real data measurements, surface velocity data from HF Radar near the Venice inlets, has been performed, which allows for a better understanding of the processes and their seasonal dynamics. The results outline the predominance of wind and tidal forcing in the coastal area. Wind forcing acts mainly on the mean coastal current inducing its detachment offshore during Sirocco events and an increase of littoral currents during Bora events. The Bora action is more homogeneous on the whole coastal area whereas the Sirocco strengthens its impact in the South, near Chioggia inlet. Tidal forcing at the inlets is mainly barotropic. The sensitivity analysis shows how advection is the main physical process responsible for the persistent vortical structures present along the littoral between the Venice Lagoon inlets. The comparison with measurements from HF Radar not only permitted a validation the model results, but also a description of different patterns in specific periods of the year. The success of the 2D and the 3D simulations on the reproduction both of the SSE, inside and outside the Venice Lagoon, of the tidal flow, through the lagoon inlets, and of the small scale phenomena, occurring along the littoral, indicates that the finite element approach is the most suitable tool for the investigation of coastal processes. For the first time, as shown by the flux modeling, the physical processes that drive the interaction between the two basins were reproduced.

Molecular phylogeography of the European coastal plants Crithmum maritimum L., Halimione portulacoides (L.) Aellen, Salsola kali L. and Calystegia soldanella (L.) R. Br.

The intraspecific phylogeography of four European coastal plants, Crithmum maritimum, Halimione portulacoides, Salsola kali and Calystegia soldanella, was inferred from AFLP and ITS data. Only in C. maritimum, H. portulacoides and S. kali, a spatial genetic structure was revealed. The phylogeographic similarities and dissimilarities of these species include: (1) All three have distinct Black/Aegean and Adriatic Sea clusters. (2) Salsola kali and H. portulacoides show a distinct Atlantic/North Sea/Baltic Sea cluster, while Atlantic and eastern Spanish material of C. maritimum clustered together. (3) In the west Mediterranean, only S. kali forms a single cluster, while both H. portulacoides and C. maritimum display a phylogeographic break in the vicinity of the southern French coast. For S. kali, AFLP and ITS data concur in identifying separate Atlantic, east and west Mediterranean clades. All these patterns are postulated to result from both temperature changes during the last glacial and contemporary sea currents. No geographic AFLP structure was revealed in C. soldanella, both at the range-wide and population level. This was attributed to the remarkable seed dispersal ability of this species and possibly its longevity and clonal growth, preserving a random pattern of genetic variation generated by long-distance seed dispersal over long time periods.

European phylogeography of the coastal plants Cakile maritima Scop. (Brassicaceae) and Eryngium maritimum L. (Apiaceae)

Linear dispersal systems, such as coastal habitats, are well suited for phylogeographic studies because of their low spatial complexity compared to three dimensional habitats. Widely distributed coastal plant species additionally show azonal and often essentially continuous distributions. These properties, firstly, make it easier to reconstruct historical distributions of coastal plants and, secondly, make it more likely that present distributions contain both Quaternary refugia and recently colonized areas. Taken together this makes it easier to formulate phylogeographic hypotheses. This work investigated the phylogeography of Cakile maritima and Eryngium maritimum, two species growing in sandy habitats along the north Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea coasts on two different spatial scales using AFLP data. The genetic structure of these species was investigated by sampling single individuals along most of their distributions from Turkey to south Sweden. On a regional scale the population genetic structure of both species was also studied in detail in the Bosporus and Dardanelles straits, the Strait of Gibraltar and along a continuous stretch of dunes in western France. Additionally, populations of C. maritima were investigated in the Baltic Sea/Kattegat/North Sea area. Over the complete sampling range the species show both differences and similarities in their genetic structure. In the Mediterranean Sea, both species contain Aegean Sea/Black Sea and west Mediterranean clusters. Cakile maritima additionally shows a clustering of Ionian Sea/Adriatic Sea collections. Further, both species show a subdivision of Atlantic Ocean/North Sea/Baltic Sea material from Mediterranean. Within the Atlantic Ocean group, C. maritima from the Baltic Sea and the most northern Atlantic localities form an additional cluster while no such substructure was found in E. maritimum. In all three instances where population genetic investigations of both species were performed in the same area, the results showed almost complete congruency of spatial genetic patterns. In the Aegean/Black Sea/Marmara region a subdivision of populations into a Black Sea, a Sea of Marmara and an Aegean Sea group is shared by both species. In addition the Sea of Marmara populations are more close to the Aegean Sea populations than they are to the Black Sea populations in both cases. Populations from the Atlantic side of the Strait of Gibraltar are differentiated from those on the Mediterranean side in both species, a pattern that confirms the results of the wide scale study. Along the dunes of West France no clear genetic structure could be detected in any of the species. Additionally, the results from the Baltic Sea/North Sea populations of C. maritima did not reveal any geographical genetic pattern. It is postulated that the many congruencies between the species are mainly due to a predominantly sea water mediated seed dispersal in both species and their shared sandy habitat. The results are compared to hypothetical distributions for the last glacial maximum based on species specific temperature requirements. It is argued that in both species the geographical borders of the clusters in the Mediterranean area were not affected by quaternary temperature changes and that the Aegean/Black Sea/Marmara cluster, and possibly the Ionian Sea/Adriatic Sea cluster in C. maritima, is the result of sea currents that isolate these basins from the rest of the sampled areas. The genetic gap in the Strait of Gibraltar between Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea populations in both species is also explained in terms of sea currents. The existence of three subgroups corresponding to the Aegean Sea, Black Sea and Sea of Marmara basins is suggested to have arisen due to geographical isolation during periods of global sea regressions in the glacials. The population genetic evidence was inconclusive regarding the Baltic Sea cluster of C. Maritima from the wide scale study. The results of this study are very similar to those of an investigation of three other coastal plant species over a similar range. This suggests that the phylo-geographic patterns of widespread coastal plants may be more predictable than those of other terrestrial plants.

Freshening of the Alaska Coastal Current Recorded By Coralline Algal Ba/Ca Ratios

Arctic Ocean freshening can exert a controlling influence on global climate, triggering strong feedbacks on ocean-atmospheric processes and affecting the global cycling of the world's oceans. Glacier-fed ocean currents such as the Alaska Coastal Current are important sources of freshwater for the Bering Sea shelf, and may also influence the Arctic Ocean freshwater budget. Instrumental data indicate a multiyear freshening episode of the Alaska Coastal Current in the early 21st century. It is uncertain whether this freshening is part of natural multidecadal climate variability or a unique feature of anthropogenically induced warming. In order to answer this, a better understanding of past variations in the Alaska Coastal Current is needed. However, continuous long-term high-resolution observations of the Alaska Coastal Current have only been available for the last 2 decades. In this study, specimens of the long-lived crustose coralline alga Clathromorphum nereostratum were collected within the pathway of the Alaska Coastal Current and utilized as archives of past temperature and salinity. Results indicate that coralline algal Mg/Ca ratios provide a 60 year record of sea surface temperatures and track changes of the Pacific Decadal Oscillation, a pattern of decadal-to-multidecadal ocean-atmosphere climate variability centered over the North Pacific. Algal Ba/Ca ratios (used as indicators of coastal freshwater runoff) are inversely correlated to instrumentally measured Alaska Coastal Current salinity and record the period of freshening from 2001 to 2006. Similar multiyear freshening events are not evident in the earlier portion of the 60 year Ba/Ca record. This suggests that the 21st century freshening of the Alaska Coastal Current is a unique feature related to increasing glacial melt and precipitation on mainland Alaska.

DISPRO datasets for validation of coastal hydrodynamic models

Appropriate field data are required to check the reliability of hydrodynamic models simulating the dispersion of soluble substances in the marine environment. This study deals with the collection of physical measurements and soluble tracer data intended specifically for this kind of validation. The intensity of currents as well as the complexity of topography and tides around the Cap de La Hague in the center of the English Channel makes it one of the most difficult areas to represent in terms of hydrodynamics and dispersion. Controlled releases of tritium - in the form of HTO - are carried out in this area by the AREVA-NC plant, providing an excellent soluble tracer. A total of 14 493 measurements were acquired to track dispersion in the hours and days following a release. These data, supplementing previously gathered data and physical measurements (bathymetry, water-surface levels, Eulerian and Lagrangian current studies) allow us to test dispersion models from the hour following release to periods of several years which are not accessible with dye experiments. The dispersion characteristics are described and methods are proposed for comparing models against measurements. An application is proposed for a 2 dimensions high-resolution numerical model. It shows how an extensive dataset can be used to build, calibrate and validate several aspects of the model in a highly dynamic and macrotidal area: tidal cycle timing, tidal amplitude, fixed-point current data, hodographs. This study presents results concerning the model's ability to reproduce residual Lagrangian currents, along with a comparison between simulation and high-frequency measurements of tracer dispersion. Physical and tracer data are available from the SISMER database of IFREMER (www.ifremer.fr/sismer/catal). This tool for validation of models in macro-tidal seas is intended to be an open and evolving resource, which could provide a benchmark for dispersion model validation.

Sr-Nd isotopic analyses of sand-sized sediment from the San Francisco Bay coastal system

A diverse suite of geochemical tracers, including 87Sr/86Sr and 143Nd/144Nd isotope ratios, the rare earth elements (REEs), and select trace elements were used to determine sand-sized sediment provenance and transport pathways within the San Francisco Bay coastal system. This study complements a large interdisciplinary effort (Barnard et al., 2012) that seeks to better understand recent geomorphic change in a highly urbanized and dynamic estuarine-coastal setting. Sand-sized sediment provenance in this geologically complex system is important to estuarine resource managers and was assessed by examining the geographic distribution of this suite of geochemical tracers from the primary sources (fluvial and rock) throughout the bay, adjacent coast, and beaches. Due to their intrinsic geochemical nature, 143Nd/144Nd isotopic ratios provide the most resolved picture of where sediment in this system is likely sourced and how it moves through this estuarine system into the Pacific Ocean. For example, Nd isotopes confirm that the predominant source of sand-sized sediment to Suisun Bay, San Pablo Bay, and Central Bay is the Sierra Nevada Batholith via the Sacramento River, with lesser contributions from the Napa and San Joaquin Rivers. Isotopic ratios also reveal hot-spots of local sediment accumulation, such as the basalt and chert deposits around the Golden Gate Bridge and the high magnetite deposits of Ocean Beach. Sand-sized sediment that exits San Francisco Bay accumulates on the ebb-tidal delta and is in part conveyed southward by long-shore currents. Broadly, the geochemical tracers reveal a complex story of multiple sediment sources, dynamic intra-bay sediment mixing and reworking, and eventual dilution and transport by energetic marine processes. Combined geochemical results provide information on sediment movement into and through San Francisco Bay and further our understanding of how sustained anthropogenic activities which limit sediment inputs to the system (e.g., dike and dam construction) as well as those which directly remove sediments from within the Bay, such as aggregate mining and dredging, can have long-lasting effects.

Distribution of biological, anthropogenic, and volcanic constituents in the San Francisco Bay Coastal System

Although conventional sediment parameters (mean grain size, sorting, and skewness) and provenance have typically been used to infer sediment transport pathways, most freshwater, brackish, and marine environments are also characterized by abundant sediment constituents of biological, and possibly anthropogenic and volcanic, origin that can provide additional insight into local sedimentary processes. The biota will be spatially distributed according to its response to environmental parameters such as water temperature, salinity, dissolved oxygen, organic carbon content, grain size, and intensity of currents and tidal flow, whereas the presence of anthropogenic and volcanic constituents will reflect proximity to source areas and whether they are fluvially- or aerially-transported. Because each of these constituents have a unique environmental signature, they are a more precise proxy for that source area than the conventional sedimentary process indicators. This San Francisco Bay Coastal System study demonstrates that by applying a multi-proxy approach, the primary sites of sediment transport can be identified. Many of these sites are far from where the constituents originated, showing that sediment transport is widespread in the region. Although not often used, identifying and interpreting the distribution of naturally-occurring and allochthonous biologic, anthropogenic, and volcanic sediment constituents is a powerful tool to aid in the investigation of sediment transport pathways in other coastal systems.

Interaction of waves and currents /

This report presents an overview of wave-current interacion, including comprehensive review of references to significant U.S. and foreign literature available through December 1981. Specific topics under review are the effects of horizontally and vertically varying currents on waves, wave refraction by currents, dissipation and turbulence, small- and medium-scale currents, caustics and focusing, and wave breaking. The results of the review are then examined for engineering applications. The most appropriate general-purpose computer program to include wave-current interaction is the Dutch Rijkswaterstaat program CREDIZ, which is based on a parabolic wave equation. Further applications include wave and current forces on structures and possibly sediment transport. The report concludes with a brief state-of-the-art review of wave-current interaction and a list of topics needing further research and development.