993 resultados para Barrier Island


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This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives

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The work concerns on the evolutionary study of the environmental conditions of the coastal area of Guamaré-RN, where was investigated the geo-environmental transformation occourred in this region, whose primordial purpose was to diagnose the changes verified in the temporary space of five decades (1950 to 2001). With the objective of evaluanting the action of the active coastal processes (currents, waves, tides and winds), in order to understand the generating mechanisms of the erosion/sedimentation, evidenced by constant morphologic changes. The adopted methodological procedure consisted of a succession of stages, involving bibliographical and cartographic study, aereal photographs study, digital treatment of images, field work (sample collection, beaches profiles, characterization of the beach environment and morfodynamics), mapping correction and laboratory analyses (granulometry). The evolutionary study of the morphologic features indicated significant variations in the studied period, mainly, in the dunes, sea terraces, variation of the shore line and tidal flat, evidencing the largest transformations in the temporary space between 1988 and 2001. The analyses of the beach profiles showed a sedimentation tendency in the area of the profiles P1, P2 and P3, however in the monitored pediod, it was observed in the referred profiles, erosive and depositionals intervals evidencing a need of more effective monitoring. The results of the granulometric analyses indicate a predominance of mean to coarse sand in the backshore and estirancy area, as in the shoreface, the analyses indicated medium to fine sand. The morfodynamic state, showed that beach of Minhoto is intermediate state, with alternancy to reflective. The areas of larger vulnerability and sensibility are the tidal flat, shore line, barrier island and mobile dunes, that actually is suffering great environmental impact with expansion of the carcinoculture, urban presence and natural impacts (erosion of the shoreline)

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This work embraces the application of Landsat 5-TM digital images, comprising August 2 1989 and September 22 1998, for temporal mapping and geoenvironmental analysis of the dynamic of Piranhas-Açu river mouth, situated in the Macau (RN) region. After treatment using several digital processing techniques (e.g. colour composition in RGB, ratio of bands, principal component analysis, index methods, among others), it was possible to generate several image products and multitemporal maps of the coastal morphodynamics of the studied area. Using the image products it was possible the identification and characterization of the principal elements of interest (vegetation, soil, geology and water) in the surface of the studied area, associating the spectral characteristics of these elements to that presented by the image products resulting of the digital processing. Thus, it was possible to define different types of soils: Amd, AQd6, SK1 and LVe4; vegetation grouping: open arboreal-shrubby caatinga, closed arborealshrubby caatinga, closed arboreal caatinga, mangrove vegetation, dune vegetation and areas predominately constituted by juremas; geological units: quaternary units beach sediments, sand banks, dune flats, barrier island, mobile dunes, fixed dunes, alluvium, tidal and inundation flats, and sandy facies of the Potengi Formation; tertiary-quaternary units Barreiras Formation grouped to the clayey facies of the Potengi Formation, Macau Formation grouped to the sediments of the Tibau Formation; Cretaceous units Jandaíra Formation; moreover it was to identify the sea/land limit, shallow submersed areas and suspended sediments. The multitemporal maps of the coastal morphodynamics allowed the identification and a semi-quantitative evoluation of regions which were submitted to erosive and constructive processes in the last decade. This semi-quantitative evoluation in association with an geoenvironmental characterization of the studied area are important data to the elaboration of actions that may minimize the possible/probable impacts caused by the implantation of the Polo Gas/Sal and to the monitoring of areas explorated by the petroleum and salt industries

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The study area consist in high sensitivity environments located on the northern coast of Rio Grande do Norte, Northeast Brazil. The barrier island are the main geomorphological features on the coastal landscape, being naturally instable and surrounded by industrial activities like oil fields, salt industry, shrimp farms and urban areas sometimes installed parallel to the coast, combined with coast engineering interventions. High energy hydrodynamic process are responsible for the morphological instability of the coast. The study was based on remote sensing data obtained between 1954 and 2007 which consist in orbital images from Landsat, CBERS and Ikonos satellites and aerial photos. With all data integrated on GIS environment it was possible to update thematic maps of geology, geomorphology, vegetation, soil and landuse and development of multitemporal maps pointing areas with erosion and depositions of sediments, defining the critical erosion process on this region. The bigger morphological changes are related to changes on wind patterns during the year, terrestrial and sea breezes during the day, with spits and barrier island migration, opening and closing of channels like the one parallel to the coast on the area of Serra and Macau oil fields. These factors combined with the significant reduction on sediment budgets due to the loss of natural spaces to sediment reworking contribute to the low resilience which tends to be growing on the area of Serra and Macau oil fields. In front of such scenery a detailed monitoring was done in order to find technological possibilities for coastal restoration. A pilot area was defined to start the project of mangrove restore together with beach nourishment in order to minimize the effect of the erosion caused by the channel parallel to the coast, contributing to stabilize the northeast channel as the main one. It s expected that such methodology will aid the coastal environments restoration and the balance between industrial activities and coastal erosion

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Due to its high resolution, Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) has been used to image subsurface sedimentary deposits. Because GPR and Seismic methods share some principles of image construction, the classic seismostratigraphic interpretation method has been also applied as an attempt to interpret GPR data. Nonetheless some advances in few particular contexts, the adaptations from seismic to GPR of seismostratigraphic tools and concepts unsuitable because the meaning given to the termination criteria in seismic stratigraphy do not represent the adequate geologic record in the GPR scale. Essentially, the open question relies in proposing a interpretation method for GPR data which allow not only relating product and sedimentary process in the GPR scale but also identifying or proposing depositional environments and correlating these results with the well known Sequence Stratigraphy cornerstones. The goal of this dissertation is to propose an interpretation methodology of GPR data able to perform this task at least for siliciclastic deposits. In order to do so, the proposed GPR interpretation method is based both on seismostratigraphic concepts and on the bounding surface hierarchy tool from Miall (1988). As consequence of this joint use, the results of GPR interpretation can be associated to the sedimentary facies in a genetic context, so that it is possible to: (i) individualize radar facies and correlate them to the sedimentary facies by using depositional models; (ii) characterize a given depositional system, and (iii) determine its stratigraphic framework highligthing how it evolved through geologic time. To illustrate its use the proposed methodology was applied in a GPR data set from Galos area which is part of the Galinhos spit, located in Rio Grande do Norte state, Northeastern Brazil. This spit presents high lateral sedimentary facies variation, containing in its sedimentary record from 4th to 6th cicles caused by high frequency sea level oscillation. The interpretation process was done throughout the following phases: (i) identification of a vertical facies succession, (ii) characterization of radar facies and its associated sedimentary products, (iii) recognition of the associated sedimentary process in a genetic context, and finally (iv) proposal of an evolutionay model for the Galinhos spit. This model proposes that the Galinhos spit is a barrier island constituted, from base to top, of the following sedimentary facies: tidal channel facies, tidal flat facies, shore facies, and aeolic facies (dunes). The tidal channel facies, in the base, is constituted of lateral accretion bars and filling deposits of the channels. The base facies is laterally truncated by the tidal flat facies. In the foreshore zone, the tidal flat facies is covered by the shore facies which is the register of a sea transgression. Finally, on the top of the stratigraphic column, aeolic dunes are deposited due to areal exposition caused by a sea regression

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Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

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Adult specimens of the spot. Leiostomus xanthurus, were collected from bayou, Mississippi Sound, and barrier island locations along the Gulf Coast of Mississippi from November 1982 to July 1989. 7he mean total length of all spot sampled in comparable gill net sets was 219 mm (± 14 standard deviation, n=4,338). Ninety-five percent of the spot were collected in the island and sound areas, where the salinity was higher than in the bayous. Catch per unit effort was high at island and sound stations in spring and autumn, with relatively few fish caught during the winter spawning season and summer. The relatively high frequency of spot observed at the island stations in the autumn was probably influenced by spawning migrations, and the high spring values may represent a combination of two abundant year classes. The two greatest yearly collections, in 1983 and 1986, may have been influenced by sampling conditions or by environmental conditions favorable to survival either during those years or earlier when those fish were postlarvae. The smallest yearly catch occurred in 1985 and may have reflected the harsh weather conditions that year.

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The modern stratigraphy of clastic continental margins is the result of the interaction between several geological processes acting on different time scales, among which sea level oscillations, sediment supply fluctuations and local tectonics are the main mechanisms. During the past three years my PhD was focused on understanding the impact of each of these process in the deposition of the central and northern Adriatic sedimentary successions, with the aim of reconstructing and quantifying the Late Quaternary eustatic fluctuations. In the last few decades, several Authors tried to quantify past eustatic fluctuations through the analysis of direct sea level indicators, among which drowned barrier-island deposits or coral reefs, or indirect methods, such as Oxygen isotope ratios (δ18O) or modeling simulations. Sea level curves, obtained from direct sea level indicators, record a composite signal, formed by the contribution of the global eustatic change and regional factors, as tectonic processes or glacial-isostatic rebound effects: the eustatic signal has to be obtained by removing the contribution of these other mechanisms. To obtain the most realistic sea level reconstructions it is important to quantify the tectonic regime of the central Adriatic margin. This result has been achieved integrating a numerical approach with the analysis of high-resolution seismic profiles. In detail, the subsidence trend obtained from the geohistory analysis and the backstripping of the borehole PRAD1.2 (the borehole PRAD1.2 is a 71 m continuous borehole drilled in -185 m of water depth, south of the Mid Adriatic Deep - MAD - during the European Project PROMESS 1, Profile Across Mediterranean Sedimentary Systems, Part 1), has been confirmed by the analysis of lowstand paleoshorelines and by benthic foraminifera associations investigated through the borehole. This work showed an evolution from inner-shelf environment, during Marine Isotopic Stage (MIS) 10, to upper-slope conditions, during MIS 2. Once the tectonic regime of the central Adriatic margin has been constrained, it is possible to investigate the impact of sea level and sediment supply fluctuations on the deposition of the Late Pleistocene-Holocene transgressive deposits. The Adriatic transgressive record (TST - Transgressive Systems Tract) is formed by three correlative sedimentary bodies, deposited in less then 14 kyr since the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM); in particular: along the central Adriatic shelf and in the adjacent slope basin the TST is formed by marine units, while along the northern Adriatic shelf the TST is represented by costal deposits in a backstepping configuration. The central Adriatic margin, characterized by a thick transgressive sedimentary succession, is the ideal site to investigate the impact of late Pleistocene climatic and eustatic fluctuations, among which Meltwater Pulses 1A and 1B and the Younger Dryas cold event. The central Adriatic TST is formed by a tripartite deposit bounded by two regional unconformities. In particular, the middle TST unit includes two prograding wedges, deposited in the interval between the two Meltwater Pulse events, as highlighted by several 14C age estimates, and likely recorded the Younger Dryas cold interval. Modeling simulations, obtained with the two coupled models HydroTrend 3.0 and 2D-Sedflux 1.0C (developed by the Community Surface Dynamics Modeling System - CSDMS), integrated by the analysis of high resolution seismic profiles and core samples, indicate that: 1 - the prograding middle TST unit, deposited during the Younger Dryas, was formed as a consequence of an increase in sediment flux, likely connected to a decline in vegetation cover in the catchment area due to the establishment of sub glacial arid conditions; 2 - the two-stage prograding geometry was the consequence of a sea level still-stand (or possibly a fall) during the Younger Dryas event. The northern Adriatic margin, characterized by a broad and gentle shelf (350 km wide with a low angle plunge of 0.02° to the SE), is the ideal site to quantify the timing of each steps of the post LGM sea level rise. The modern shelf is characterized by sandy deposits of barrier-island systems in a backstepping configuration, showing younger ages at progressively shallower depths, which recorded the step-wise nature of the last sea level rise. The age-depth model, obtained by dated samples of basal peat layers, is in good agreement with previous published sea level curves, and highlights the post-glacial eustatic trend. The interval corresponding to the Younger Dyas cold reversal, instead, is more complex: two coeval coastal deposits characterize the northern Adriatic shelf at very different water depths. Several explanations and different models can be attempted to explain this conundrum, but the problem remains still unsolved.

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La morfologia della piattaforma continentale della Sicilia Settentrionale è il risultato dell'assetto geodinamico della zona e delle più recenti fluttuazioni glacioeustatiche del livello marino.Oggetto di questa tesi è stato lo studio degli elementi geomorfologici sommersi, risalenti all’ultima trasgressione marina, e del cuneo sedimentario olocenico da cui sono sepolti. Tramite i dati forniti da strumenti geofisici, quali l’ecoscandaglio a fascio multiplo (Multibeam) e i profili sismici Chirp Sub-bottom, è stato possibile lo studio di tali elementi e la redazione di due mappe che riportano le isobate delle profondità della superficie di massima ingressione marina e degli isospessori del cuneo olocenico di stazionamento alto. I depositi, nel corso del lavoro, sono stati suddivisi per facilitare la loro descrizione. L'analisi dei depositi trasgressivi ha permesso il riconoscimento di elementi morfologici quali frecce litorali (spit), isole barriera (barrier island), sistemi barriera-laguna e un sistema deltizio sommerso. Queste elementi sono stati ricondotti dunque ad una piattaforma relitta, ormai sommersa, le cui morfologie sono state plasmate dall'ultima trasgressione marina. Grazie ai profili chirp subbottom è stato inoltre possibile riconoscere un basamento carbonatico Meso-Cenozoico con un area di 23 km². I depositi olocenici di stazionamento alto occupano circa l'88% della superficie della piattaforma analizzata. Gli spessori maggiori, corrispondenti a 25m, sono stati riscontrati in prossimità della costa da cui degradano verso nord fino ad estinguersi. L'estensione del cuneo olocenico risulta essere influenzata dalle correnti, che trasportano i sedimenti verso est, dalla presenza degli alti morfologici, in prossimità della cui superficie i sedimenti si arrestano, e dall'apporto fluviale fornito dalle fiumare che sfociano nella zona analizzata. Quest'ultimo è il fattore che influenza maggiormente lo spessore del cuneo. Nelle aree di piattaforma prossime alle foci fluviali inoltre è stata riscontrata la deposizione di materiali grossolani che lateralmente sfumano a fini attraverso contatti eteropici.

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Magnetic iron minerals are widespread and indicative sediment constituents in estuarine, coastal and shelf systems. We combine environmental magnetic, sedimentological and numerical methods to identify magnetite-enriched placer-like zones in a complex coastal system and delineate their formation mechanisms. Magnetic susceptibility and remanence measurements on 245 surficial sediment samples collected in and around Tauranga Harbour, the largest barrier-enclosed tidal estuary of New Zealand, reveal several discrete enrichment zones controlled by local hydrodynamic conditions. Active magnetite enrichment takes place in tidal channels, which feed into two coast-parallel nearshore magnetite-enriched belts centered at water depths of 6-10 m and 10-20 m. A close correlation between magnetite content and magnetic grain size was found, where higher susceptibility values are associated within coarser magnetic crystal sizes. Two key mechanisms for magnetite enrichment are identified. First, tide-induced residual currents primarily enable magnetite enrichment within the estuarine channel network. A coast-parallel, fine sand magnetite enrichment belt in water depths of less than 10 m along the barrier island has a strong decrease in magnetite content away from the southern tidal inlet and is apparently related to active coast-parallel transport combined with mobilizing surf zone processes. A second, less pronounced, but more uniform magnetite enrichment belt at 10-20 m water depth is composed of non-mobile, medium-coarse-grained relict sands, which have been reworked during post-glacial sea level transgression. We demonstrate the potential of magnetic methods to reveal and differentiate coastal magnetite enrichment patterns and investigate their formative mechanisms.

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The environment of ebb-tidal deltas between barrier island systems is characterized by a complex morphology with ebb- and flood-dominated channels, shoals and swash bars connecting the ebb-tidal delta platform to the adjacent island. These morphological features reveal characteristic surface sediment grain-size distributions and are subject to a continuous adaptation to the prevailing hydrodynamic forces. The mixed-energy tidal inlet Otzumer Balje between the East Frisian barrier islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog in the southern North Sea has been chosen here as a model study area for the identification of relevant hydrodynamic drivers of morphology and sedimentology. We compare the effect of high-energy, wave-dominated storm conditions to mid-term, tide-dominated fair-weather conditions on tidal inlet morphology and sedimentology with a process-based numerical model. A multi-fractional approach with five grain-size fractions between 150 and 450 µm allows for the simulation of corresponding surface sediment grain-size distributions. Net sediment fluxes for distinct conditions are identified: during storm conditions, bed load sediment transport is generally onshore directed on the shallower ebb-tidal delta shoals, whereas fine-grained suspended sediment bypasses the tidal inlet by wave-driven currents. During fair weather the sediment transport mainly focuses on the inlet throat and the marginal flood channels. We show how the observed sediment grain-size distribution and the morphological response at mixed-energy tidal inlets are the result of both wave-dominated less frequent storm conditions and mid-term, tide-dominant fair-weather conditions.

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Hurricane Sandy was the largest storm on historical record in the Atlantic Ocean basin with extensive coastal damage caused by large waves and high storm surge. The primary objectives of this thesis are to compare and evaluate three different spatially-varying surface wind fields of Hurricane Sandy to investigate the impact of the differences between the complex wind fields on predictions of the sea surface evolution, and to evaluate the impact of the storm on the hydrodynamics in Great South Bay (GSB) and the discharge of ocean water into the back-barrier bay from overwash over Fire Island. Three different spatially-varying surface wind fields were evaluated and compared to wind observations, including the parametric Holland (1980) model (H80), the parametric Generalized Asymmetric Holland Model (GAHM), and results from the WeatherFlow Regional Atmospheric Modelling System (WRAMS). The winds were used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and ocean wave models on a regional grid. The results indicate that the WRAMS wind field produces wave model predictions in the best agreement with significant wave height observations, followed by the GAHM and H80 wind fields and that a regional atmospheric wind model is best for hindcasting hurricane waves and water levels when detailed observations are available, while a parametric vortex model is best for forecasting hurricane sea surface conditions. Using a series of four connected Delft3D-SWAN grids to achieve finer resolution over Fire Island and GSB, a higher resolution WRAMS was used to predict waves and storm surge. The results indicate that strong local winds have the largest influence on water level fluctuations in GSB. Three numerical solutions were conducted with varying extents of barrier island overwash. The simulations allowing for minor and major overwash indicated good agreement with observations in the east end of GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to GSB during the storm. Limiting the overwash in the numerical model directly impacts the total discharge into GSB from the ocean through existing inlets. The results of this study indicate that barrier island overwash had a significant impact on the water levels in eastern GSB.

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The objective of this Doctoral Thesis was monitoring, in trimestral scale, the coastal morphology of the Northeastern coast sections of Rio Grande do Norte State, in Brazil, which is an area of Potiguar Basin influenced by the oil industry activities. The studied sections compose coastal areas with intense sedimentary erosion and high environmental sensitivity to the oil spill. In order to achieve the general objective of this study, the work has been systematized in four steps. The first one refers to the evaluation of the geomorphological data acquisition methodologies used on Digital Elevation Model (DEM) of sandy beaches. The data has been obtained from Soledade beach, located on the Northeastern coast of Rio Grande Norte. The second step has been centered on the increasing of the reference geodetic infrastructure to accomplish the geodetic survey of the studied area by implanting a station in Corta Cachorro Barrier Island and by conducting monitoring geodetic surveys to understand the beach system based on the Coastline (CL) and on DEM multitemporal analysis. The third phase has been related to the usage of the methodology developed by Santos; Amaro (2011) and Santos et al. (2012) for the surveying, processing, representation, integration and analysis of Coastlines from sandy coast, which have been obtained through geodetic techniques of positioning, morphological change analysis and sediment transport. The fourth stage represents the innovation of surveys in coastal environment by using the Terrestrial Laser Scanning (TLS), based on Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR), to evaluate a highly eroded section on Soledade beach where the oil industry structures are located. The evaluation has been achieved through high-precision DEM and accuracy during the modeling of the coast morphology changes. The result analysis of the integrated study about the spatial and temporal interrelations of the intense coastal processes in areas of building cycles and destruction of beaches has allowed identifying the causes and consequences of the intense coastal erosion in exposed beach sections and in barrier islands