993 resultados para 091012 Textile Technology


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El creciente desarrollo de la industria del cuero y textil en nuestro país, y específicamente en la provincia de Córdoba, ha hecho resurgir en los ultimos años una problemática aún no resuelta que es la elevada contaminación de los recursos hídricos. En ambas industrias, la operación de teñido involucra principalmente colorantes de tipo azoico los cuales son "no biodegradables" y se fragmentan liberando aminas aromáticas cancerígenas. Para abordar esta problemática, la fotocatálisis heterogénea aparece como una nueva tecnología que permitiría la completa mineralización de estos colorantes. A través de radiación y un fotocatalizador sólido adecuado se pueden generan radicales libres eficientes para la oxidación de materia orgánica (colorantes) en medio acuoso. En este sentido, se proponen tamices moleculares mesoporosos modificados con metales de transición (MT) como fotocatalizadores potencialmente aptos para la degradación de estos contaminantes. El propósito principal de este proyecto es el diseño, síntesis, caracterización y evaluación de materiales mesoporosos que presenten actividad fotocatalítica ya sea mediante la modificación de su estructura con diversos metales fotosensibles y/o empleándolos como soporte de óxido de titanio. Se pretende evaluar estos materiales en la degradación de colorantes intentando desplazar su fotosensibilidad hacia la radiación visible para desarrollar nuevas tecnologías con menor impacto ambiental y mayor aprovechamiento de la energía solar. Para ello se sintetizarán materiales del tipo MCM-41 modificados con distintos MT tales como Fe, Cr, Co, Ni y Zn mediante incorporación directa del ión metálico o impregnación. Al mismo tiempo, tanto estos últimos materiales como el MCM-41 silíceo serán empleados como soporte de TiO2. Sus propiedades fisicoquímicas se caracterizarán mediante distintas técnicas instrumentales y su actividad fotocatalítica se evaluará en la degradación de colorantes azoicos bajo radiación visible. Se seleccionará el catalizador más eficiente y se estudiarán los diversos factores que afectan el proceso de fotodegradación. Así mismo, el análisis de la concentración del colorante y los productos presentes en el medio en función del tiempo de reacción permitirá inferir sobre la cinética de la decoloración y postular posibles mecanismos de fotodegradación. Con esta propuesta se espera contribuír al desarrollo de un sector industrial importante en nuestra provincia como es el de las industrias del cuero y textil, mediante la generación de nuevas tecnologías que empleen la energía solar para la degradación de sus efluentes (colorantes). En este sentido, se espera desarrollar nuevos materiales optimizados para lograr la mayor eficiencia fotocatalítica. Esto conduciría entonces hacia la remediación de un problema ambiental de alto impacto tanto para nuestra provincia y nuestro país como para la población mundial, como es la contaminación de los recursos hídricos. Finalmente, con este proyecto se contribuirá a la formación de dos doctorandos y un maestrando, cuyos temas de tesis están vinculados con nuestro objeto de estudio. The increasing development of the textile and leather industries in our country, and specifically in Córdoba, has revived an unresolved problem that is the high contamination of water resources. In both industries, the dyeing involves mainly type azoic dyes which are not biodegradable and break releasing carcinogenic aromatic amines. Heterogeneous photocatalysis appears as a new technology that would allow the complete mineralization of these pollutants. Through radiation and a suitable solid it is possible to generate free radicals for efficient oxidation of organic matter (dyes) in aqueous medium. In this respect, mesoporous molecular sieves modified with transition metals are proposed as potential photocatalysts. The main purpose of this project is the synthesis of mesoporous materials having photocatalytic activity for the degradation of dyes. We will try to move their photosensitivity to visible radiation to develop new technologies with lower environmental impact and greater use of solar energy. Materials MCM-41 modified with metals (Fe, Cr, Co, Ni and Zn) will be synthesized by direct incorporation or impregnation. These materials and the siliceous MCM-41 will be then employed as support of TiO2. The materials will be evaluated in the photocatalytic degradation of azoic dyes under visible radiation. The influence of different factors on the photodegradation proccess will be studied. Kinetic studies will be carried out and a possible reaction way will be proposed. Thus, this work will contribute to the advancement of an important industrial sector and the remediation of an environmental problem with high impact for our province and our country. Moreover, this proyect will contribute to the development of two doctoral tesis and one magister tesis which are vinculated with our study subject.

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This research uses the textile/text axis concept as a conceptual tool to investigate the role of textile and text in contemporary women’s art practice and theorizing, investigating textile as a largely hitherto unacknowledged element in women’s art practice of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Textile and text share a common etymological root, from the Latin textere to weave, textus a fabric. The thesis illuminates the pathways whereby textile and text played an important role in women reclaiming a speaking voice as creators of culture and signification during a revolutionary period of renewal in women’s cultural contribution and positioning. The methodological approach used in the research consisted of a comprehensive literature review, the compilation of an inventory of relevant women artists, developing a classificatory system differentiating types of approaches, concerns and concepts underpinning women’s art practice vis a vis the textile/text axis and a series of three in-depth case studies of artists Tracey Emin, Louise Bourgeois and Faith Ringgold. The thesis points to the fact that contemporary women artists and theorists have rounded their art practice and aesthetic discourse in textile as prime visual metaphor and signifier, turning towards the ancient language of textile not merely to reclaim a speaking voice but to occupy a ground breaking locus of signification and representation in contemporary culture. The textile/text axis facilitated women artists in powerfully countering a culturally inscribed status of Lacanian ‘no-woman’ (a position of abjection, absence and lack in the phallocentric symbolic). Turning towards a language of aeons, textile as fertile wellspring, the thesis identifies the methodologies and strategies whereby women artists have inserted their webs of subjectivities and deepest concerns into the records and discourses of contemporary culture. Presenting an anatomy of the textile/text axis, the thesis identifies nine component elements manifesting in contemporary women’s aesthetic practice and discourse. In this cultural renaissance, the textile/text axis, the thesis suggests, served as a complex lexicon, a system of labyrinthine references and signification, a site of layered meanings and ambiguities, a body proxy and a corporeal cartography, facilitating a revolution in women’s aesthetic praxis.

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Life cycle analyses (LCA) approaches require adaptation to reflect the increasing delocalization of production to emerging countries. This work addresses this challenge by establishing a country-level, spatially explicit life cycle inventory (LCI). This study comprises three separate dimensions. The first dimension is spatial: processes and emissions are allocated to the country in which they take place and modeled to take into account local factors. Emerging economies China and India are the location of production, the consumption occurs in Germany, an Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development country. The second dimension is the product level: we consider two distinct textile garments, a cotton T-shirt and a polyester jacket, in order to highlight potential differences in the production and use phases. The third dimension is the inventory composition: we track CO2, SO2, NO (x), and particulates, four major atmospheric pollutants, as well as energy use. This third dimension enriches the analysis of the spatial differentiation (first dimension) and distinct products (second dimension). We describe the textile production and use processes and define a functional unit for a garment. We then model important processes using a hierarchy of preferential data sources. We place special emphasis on the modeling of the principal local energy processes: electricity and transport in emerging countries. The spatially explicit inventory is disaggregated by country of location of the emissions and analyzed according to the dimensions of the study: location, product, and pollutant. The inventory shows striking differences between the two products considered as well as between the different pollutants considered. For the T-shirt, over 70% of the energy use and CO2 emissions occur in the consuming country, whereas for the jacket, more than 70% occur in the producing country. This reversal of proportions is due to differences in the use phase of the garments. For SO2, in contrast, over two thirds of the emissions occur in the country of production for both T-shirt and jacket. The difference in emission patterns between CO2 and SO2 is due to local electricity processes, justifying our emphasis on local energy infrastructure. The complexity of considering differences in location, product, and pollutant is rewarded by a much richer understanding of a global production-consumption chain. The inclusion of two different products in the LCI highlights the importance of the definition of a product's functional unit in the analysis and implications of results. Several use-phase scenarios demonstrate the importance of consumer behavior over equipment efficiency. The spatial emission patterns of the different pollutants allow us to understand the role of various energy infrastructure elements. The emission patterns furthermore inform the debate on the Environmental Kuznets Curve, which applies only to pollutants which can be easily filtered and does not take into account the effects of production displacement. We also discuss the appropriateness and limitations of applying the LCA methodology in a global context, especially in developing countries. Our spatial LCI method yields important insights in the quantity and pattern of emissions due to different product life cycle stages, dependent on the local technology, emphasizing the importance of consumer behavior. From a life cycle perspective, consumer education promoting air-drying and cool washing is more important than efficient appliances. Spatial LCI with country-specific data is a promising method, necessary for the challenges of globalized production-consumption chains. We recommend inventory reporting of final energy forms, such as electricity, and modular LCA databases, which would allow the easy modification of underlying energy infrastructure.

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The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth

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. The cotton mill industry is one of the important medium and large-scale industries in the State of Kerala. Due to the widespread development of the handloom industry in the State, there is an environment conducive to the growth of cotton spinning mills which produce yarn, the raw material required by the handloom industry. New spin— ing mills are being commissioned. But the performance of the existing cotton spinning and weaving mills in the State is not quite satisfactory. Hence an analysis has been carried out into the profitability and financial position of the industry in Kerala. The objective of the study is to make a financial analysis of the industry covering various aspects such as cost structure, productivity, asset structure, financial structure and working capital management.

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The textile industry is one amongst the rapidly growing industries world wide, which utilizes enormous amounts of synthetic dyes. Consequently, the effluent from these textile industries poses serious threat to the environment which is often very difficult to treat and dispose. This has become a very grave problem in environment conservation and hence natural pigments have drawn the attention of industry as safe alternative. In this context, in the present study an attempt was made to bioprospect marine bacteria towards isolation of a suitable and ideal pigment that could be used as a natural dye. A marine Serratia sp. BTWJ8 was recognized to synthesize enormous amounts of a prodigiosin-like pigment. The pigment was isolated and characterized for various properties. The pigment was evaluated for application as a dye in the textile industry. Results of the studies indicated that this pigment could be used as a natural dye for imparting red-yellow colour to various grades of textile materials. The colour was observed to be stable after wash performance studies

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Actualment, la legislació ambiental ha esdevingut més restrictiva pel que fa a la descàrrega d'aigües residuals amb nutrients, especialment en les anomenades àrees sensibles o zones vulnerables. Arran d'aquest fet, s'ha estimulat el coneixement, desenvolupament i millora dels processos d'eliminació de nutrients. El Reactor Discontinu Seqüencial (RDS) o Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR) en anglès, és un sistema de tractament de fangs actius que opera mitjançant un procediment d'omplerta-buidat. En aquest tipus de reactors, l'aigua residual és addicionada en un sol reactor que treballa per càrregues repetint un cicle (seqüència) al llarg del temps. Una de les característiques dels SBR és que totes les diferents operacions (omplerta, reacció, sedimentació i buidat) es donen en un mateix reactor. La tecnologia SBR no és nova d'ara. El fet, és que va aparèixer abans que els sistema de tractament continu de fangs actius. El precursor dels SBR va ser un sistema d'omplerta-buidat que operava en discontinu. Entre els anys 1914 i 1920, varen sorgir certes dificultats moltes d'elles a nivell d'operació (vàlvules, canvis el cabal d'un reactor a un altre, elevat temps d'atenció per l'operari...) per aquests reactors. Però no va ser fins a finals de la dècada dels '50 principis del '60, amb el desenvolupament de nous equipaments i noves tecnologies, quan va tornar a ressorgir l'interès pels SBRs. Importants millores en el camp del subministrament d'aire (vàlvules motoritzades o d'acció pneumàtica) i en el de control (sondes de nivell, mesuradors de cabal, temporitzadors automàtics, microprocessadors) han permès que avui en dia els SBRs competeixin amb els sistemes convencional de fangs actius. L'objectiu de la present tesi és la identificació de les condicions d'operació adequades per un cicle segons el tipus d'aigua residual a l'entrada, les necessitats del tractament i la qualitat desitjada de la sortida utilitzant la tecnologia SBR. Aquestes tres característiques, l'aigua a tractar, les necessitats del tractament i la qualitat final desitjada determinen en gran mesura el tractament a realitzar. Així doncs, per tal d'adequar el tractament a cada tipus d'aigua residual i les seves necessitats, han estat estudiats diferents estratègies d'alimentació. El seguiment del procés es realitza mitjançant mesures on-line de pH, OD i RedOx, els canvis de les quals donen informació sobre l'estat del procés. Alhora un altre paràmetre que es pot calcular a partir de l'oxigen dissolt és la OUR que és una dada complementària als paràmetres esmentats. S'han avaluat les condicions d'operació per eliminar nitrogen d'una aigua residual sintètica utilitzant una estratègia d'alimentació esglaonada, a través de l'estudi de l'efecte del nombre d'alimentacions, la definició de la llargada i el número de fases per cicle, i la identificació dels punts crítics seguint les sondes de pH, OD i RedOx. S'ha aplicat l'estratègia d'alimentació esglaonada a dues aigües residuals diferents: una procedent d'una indústria tèxtil i l'altra, dels lixiviats d'un abocador. En ambdues aigües residuals es va estudiar l'eficiència del procés a partir de les condicions d'operació i de la velocitat del consum d'oxigen. Mentre que en l'aigua residual tèxtil el principal objectiu era eliminar matèria orgànica, en l'aigua procedent dels lixiviats d'abocador era eliminar matèria orgànica i nitrogen. S'han avaluat les condicions d'operació per eliminar nitrogen i fòsfor d'una aigua residual urbana utilitzant una estratègia d'alimentació esglaonada, a través de la definició del número i la llargada de les fases per cicle, i la identificació dels punts crítics seguint les sondes de pH, OD i RedOx. S'ha analitzat la influència del pH i la font de carboni per tal d'eliminar fòsfor d'una aigua sintètica a partir de l'estudi de l'increment de pH a dos reactors amb diferents fonts de carboni i l'estudi de l'efecte de canviar la font de carboni. Tal i com es pot veure al llarg de la tesi, on s'han tractat diferents aigües residuals per a diferents necessitats, un dels avantatges més importants d'un SBR és la seva flexibilitat.

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In the present study, photo-assisted electrochemical degradation of real textile wastewater was performed. Degradation assays were performed at constant current (40 mA cm(-2)) in a combined electro/photochemical flow-cell using a Ti/Ru(0.3)Ti(0.7)O(2) DSA(R) type electrode. The results show that the method is capable of removing color and chemical oxygen demand (COD) from the effluent. Additionally, the effect of initial pH and type of supporting electrolyte (Na(2)SO(4) or NaCl) was investigated. The principal figures of merit used in this study were COD removal and color removal (605 nm). The results show that up to 72% color and up to 59% COD removal in 120 min is possible under the operating conditions employed. Studies of the phytotoxicity of the wastewater before and after the photo-assisted degradation assays are also presented and the results demonstrate that the toxicity of the effluent is dependent on the length of electrolysis time and the treatment procedure employed.

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

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World textile abstracts

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The successful restructuring of Chinese industries is of immense importance not only for the continued development of China but also to the stability of the world economy. The transformation of the Chinese wool textile industry illustrates well the many problems and pressures currently facing most Chinese industries. The Chinese wool textile industry has undergone major upheaval and restructuring in its drive to modernize and take advantage of developments in world textile markets. Macro level ownership and administrative reforms are well advanced as is the uptake of new technology and equipment. However, the changing market and institutional environment also demands an increasing level of sophistication in mill management decisions including product selection, input procurement, product pricing, investment appraisal, cost analysis and proactive identification of new market and growth opportunities. This paper outlines a series of analyses that have been integrated into a decision-making model designed to assist mill managers with these decisions. Features of the model include a whole-of-mill approach, a design based on existing mill structures and information systems, and the capacity for the model to be tailored to individual mills. All of these features facilitate the adoption of the model by time and resource constrained managers seeking to maintain the viability of their enterprises in the face of extremely dynamic market conditions.

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This thesis is concerned with the means by which the state in Britain has attempted to influence the technological development of private industry in the period 1945-1979. Particular emphasis is laid on assessing the abilities of technology policy measures to promote innovation. With that objective, the innovation literature is selectively reviewed to draw up an analytical framework to evaluate the innovation content of policy (Chapter 2). Technology policy is taken to consist of the specific measures utilised by government and its agents that affect the technological behaviour of firms. The broad sweep of policy during the period under consideration is described in Chapter 3 which concentrates on elucidating its institutional structure and the activities of the bodies involved. The empirical core of the thesis consists of three parallel case studies of policy toward the computer, machine tool and textile machinery industries (Chapters 4-6). The studies provide detailed historical accounts of the development and composition of policy, relating it to its specific institutional and industrial contexts. Each reveals a different pattern and level of state intervention. The thesis concludes with a comparative review of the findings of the case studies within a discussion centred on the arguments presented in Chapter 2. Topics arising include the state's differential support for the range of activities involved in innovation, the location of state-funded R&D, the encouragement of supplier-user contact, and the difficulties raised in adoption and diffusion.

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This research takes a practice-based approach to exploring perceptual matters that often go unnoticed in the context of everyday lived experience. My approach focuses on the experiential possibilities of knowledge emerging through artistic enquiry, and uses a variety of modes (like textiles, sound, physical computing, programming, video and text) to be conducted and communicated. It examines scholarship in line with the ecological theory of perception, and is particularly informed by neurobiological research on sensory integration as well as by cultural theories that examine the role of sensory appreciation in perception. Different processes contributing to our perceptual experience are examined through the development of a touch-sensitive, sound-generating rug and its application in an experimental context. Participants’ interaction with the rug and its sonic output allows an insight into how they make sense of multisensory information via observation of how they physically respond to it. In creating possibilities for observing the two ends of the perceptual process (sensory input and behavioural output), the rug provides a platform for the study of what is intangible to the observer (perceptual activity) through what can actually be observed (physical activity). My analysis focuses on video recordings of the experimental process and data reports obtained from the software used for the sound generating performance of the rug. Its findings suggest that attentional focus, active exploration, and past experience actively affect the ability to integrate multisensory information and are crucial parameters for the formation of a meaningful percept upon which to act. Although relational to the set experimental conditions and the specificities of the experimental group, these findings are in resonance with current cross-disciplinary discourse on perception, and indicate that art research can be incorporated into the wider arena of neurophysiological and behavioural research to expand its span of resources and methods.