Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches are examined.

The nonlinear interaction of a wave normally incident on a sloping beach with a subharmonic edge wave is studied. A two-timing expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to obtain the modulation equations which describe the evolution of the waves. It is shown how large amplitude edge waves are produced; and the results of the theory are compared with some recent laboratory experiments.

Traveling edge waves are considered in two situations. First, the full linear theory is examined to find the finite depth effect on the edge waves produced by a moving pressure disturbance. In the second situation, a Stokes' expansion is used to discuss the nonlinear effects in shallow water edge waves traveling over a bottom of arbitrary shape. The results are compared with the ones of the full theory for a uniformly sloping bottom.

The finite amplitude effects for waves incident on a sloping beach, with perfect reflection, are considered. A Stokes' expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to find the corrections to the dispersion relation for the cases of normal and oblique incidence.

Finally, an abstract formulation of the linear water waves problem is given in terms of a self adjoint but nonlocal operator. The appropriate spectral representations are developed for two particular cases.

Littoral vegetation of Lake Tohopekaliga: community descriptions prior to a large-scale fisheries habitat-enhancement project

An extreme dry-down and muck-removal project was conducted at Lake Tohopekaliga, Florida, in 2003-2004, to remove dense vegetation from inshore areas and improve habitat degraded by stabilized water levels. Vegetation was monitored from June 2002 to December 2003, to describe the pre-existing communities in terms of composition and distribution along the environmental gradients. Three study areas (Treatment-Selection Sites) were designed to test the efficacy of different treatments in enhancing inshore habitat, and five other study areas (Whole-Lake Monitoring Sites) were designed to monitor the responses of the emergent littoral vegetation as a whole. Five general community types were identified within the study areas by recording aboveground biomasses and stem densities of each species. These communities were distributed along water and soils gradients, with water depth and bulk density explaining most of the variation. The shallowest depths were dominated by a combination of Eleocharis spp., Luziola fluitans, and Panicum repens; while the deeper areas had communities of Nymphaea odorata and Nuphar luteum; Typha spp.; or Paspalidium geminatum and Hydrilla verticillata. Mineralized soils were common in both the shallow and deep-water communities, while the intermediate depths had high percentages of organic material in the soil. These intermediate depths (occurring just above and just below low pool stage) were dominated by Pontederia cordata, the main species targeted by the habitat enhancement project. This emergent community occurred in nearly monocultural bands around the lake (from roughly 60–120 cm in depth at high pool stage) often having more diverse floating mats along the deep-water edge. The organic barrier these mats create is believed to impede access of sport fish to shallow-water spawning areas, while the overall low diversity of the community is evidence of its competitive nature in stabilized waters. With continued monitoring of these study areas long-term effects of the restoration project can be assessed and predictive models may be created to determine the efficacy and legitimacy of such projects in the future.

The choice of a suitable sampler for benthic macroinvertebrates in deep rivers

Both chemical and biological methods are used to assess the water quality of rivers. Many standard physical and chemical methods are now established, but biological procedures of comparable accuracy and versatility are still lacking. This is unfortunate because the biological assessment of water quality has several advantages over physical and chemical analyses. Several groups of organisms have been used to assess water quality in rivers and these include Bacteria, Protozoa, Algae, macrophytes, macroinvertebrates and fish. Hellawell (1978) provides an excellent review of the advantages and disadvantages of these groups, and concludes that macroinvertebrates are the most useful for monitoring water quality. Although macroinvertebrates are relatively easy to sample in shallow water (depth < 1m), quantitative sampling poses more problems than qualitative sampling because a large number of replicate sampling units are usually required for accurate estimates of numbers or biomass per unit area. Both qualitative and quantitative sampling are difficult in deep water (depth > 1m). The present paper first considers different types of samplers with emphasis on immediate samplers, and then discusses some problems in choosing a suitable sampler for benthic macroinvertebrates in deep rivers.

用于机载激光测深系统的时间间隔测量模块

机载海洋激光测深系统不仅要求精确测量激光从海表的入射点到海底目标点之间的距离，还要精确测定飞机到海表入射，点之间的距离，为水深数据的海浪校正而确定平均海平面以及波高。为此设计和研制了一高精度时间间隔测量器，该单元基于专用时间数字转换芯片开发，采用延迟线插入法技术，双通道工作，具有高时间分辨率(最高可达250ps)和高测量重复率的特性。给出硬件和软件设计方法以及单元的测试结果。

Penaeus indicus H. Milne Edwards, 1837: resumo das conclusões dos cruzeiros de pesca exploratória entre 1979 e 1983 no banco de Sofala em Moçambique

From 1979 to 1983, several surveys were carried out with research and fishing vessels at Sofala Bank in Mozambique. Their main objective was the assessment of shallow water prawn stocks, as this resource is of great economic importance for the country. A summary of the conclusions of these surveys regarding the species Penaeus indicus is presented. During the rainy season the species occurs closer to the shore than during the dry season. Estimates of biomass are very variable. The spawning peak seems to occur at the beginning of the rainy season (September-October). The spawning areas are located very close to the shore in the northern part of Sofala Bank and South of 17 degree 10'S in the 15-25 m depth interval.

River Ure: fisheries drought report 1996

Yorkshire Water Services (YWS) are currently granted a Time Limited Licence (TLL) for abstraction at Kilgram Bridge which is due for renewal in 1999. The Environment. Agency requires information on fish populations with regards to drought conditions and any possible effects that abstraction may have when considering licence renewal. In' order to evaluate any effects of drought and abstraction a three year study was instigated to examine fish populations. Surveys were conducted at nine main River Ure sites and two tributaries in which the triennial rolling programme formed the basis of site selection. Multi-method sampling techniques were carried out at several sites in order to evaluate capture efficiency. High densities of brown trout juveniles were observed in the tributaries with an indication that fish had become crowded as a result of low flows. Recruitment of brown trout in the tributaries was not directly related to flow levels in the main R. Ure. However, it is concluded that salmonids are at risk during drought flows and high temperatures from increased susceptibility to disease, predation, poor water quality and the direct lethal effect of high temperatures in shallow water.

Do oil and gas platforms off California reduce recruitment of bocaccio (Sebastes paucispinis) to natural habitat? An analysis based on trajectories derived from high-frequency radar

To investigate the possibility that oil and gas platforms may reduce recruitment of rockfishes (Sebastes spp.) to natural habitat, we simulated drift pathways termed “trajectories” in our model) from an existing oil platform to nearshore habitat using current measurements from high-frequency (HF) radars. The trajectories originated at Platform Irene, located west of Point Conception, California, during two recruiting seasons for bocaccio (Sebastes paucispinis): May through August, 1999 and 2002. Given that pelagic juvenile bocaccio dwell near the surface, the trajectories estimate transport to habitat. We assumed that appropriate shallow water juvenile habitat exists inshore of the 50-m isobath. Results from 1999 indicated that 10% of the trajectories represent transport to habitat, whereas 76% represent transport across the offshore boundary. For 2002, 24% represent transport to habitat, and 69% represent transport across the offshore boundary. Remaining trajectories (14% and 7% for 1999 and 2002, respectively) exited the coverage area either northward or southward along isobaths. Deployments of actual drifters (with 1-m drogues) from a previous multiyear study provided measurements originating near Platform Irene from May through August. All but a few of the drifters moved offshore, as was also shown with the HF radar-derived trajectories. These results indicate that most juvenile bocaccio settling on the platform would otherwise have been transported offshore and perished in the absence of a platform. However, these results do not account for the swimming behavior of juvenile bocaccio, about which little is known.

Preliminary use of oxygen stable isotopes and the 1983 El Niño to assess the accuracy of aging black rockfish (Sebastes melanops)

Black rockfish (Sebastes melanops) range from California to Alaska and are found in both nearshore and shallow continental shelf waters (Love et al., 2002). Juveniles and subadults inhabit shallow water, moving deeper as they grow. Generally, adults are found at depths shallower than 55 meters and reportedly live up to 50 years. The species is currently managed by using information from an age-structured stock assessment model (Ralston and Dick, 2003).

Rangia and Marsh Clams, Rangia cuneata, R. flexuosa, and Polymesoda caroliniana, in Eastern México: Distribution, Biology and Ecology, and Historical Fisheries

Rangia and marsh clams, Rangia cuneata, R. flexuosa, and Polymesoda caroliniana, occur in brackish waters along México’s eastern coast from the northern State of Tamaulipas to the southern State of Campeche. The clams were important to the prehispanic people in the southern part of the State of Veracruz, where they were used as food and as construction material. In modern times, they are harvested for food. The fishermen wade in shallow water and harvest the clams in soft sediments by hand. Annual landings of whole clams during a recent 5-yr period, 1998–2002, were 1,139–1,695 t. The only area with a substantial ongoing clam fishery is in the Lower Papaloapan River Basin, including Alvarado Lagoon, where as many as 450 fishermen are licensed harvesters. This fishery for the Rangia and marsh clams is the most important clam fishery along México’s Gulf Coast.

Diet of Bottlenose Dolphins Tursiops truncatus in the Northwest Panhandle and Foraging Behavior Near Savannah, Georgia

The foraging ecology of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus in the Northwest Florida Panhandle and estuaries in northern Georgia was determined using diet analysis and behavioral surveys. Stomach content analysis was completed on bottlenose dolphins(N = 25) that stranded in the Northwest Florida Panhandle from November 2006 to March 2009. The most abundant prey species were spot Leiostomus xanthurus (20.4%), squid (10.9%), pinfish Lagodon rhombiodes (10.3%), and Atlantic croaker Micropogonias undulatus (8.5%). Dolphins that stranded during months with a red tide Karenia brevis bloom consumed more pinfish, and spot; whereas dolphins that stranded in non-bloom months consumed more squid, Atlantic croaker, and silver perch Bairdiella chrysoura. Differences in diet were also identified for dolphins that stranded inside bays/sound and dolphin that stranded outside of bays along the coast, and male and female dolphins. Surveys were conducted from south of the Savannah River to north of Ossabaw Sound in Georgia where foraging behaviors were classified. Multivariate Generalized Additive Models were used to test correlations of behaviors to dolphin group size, depth, salinity, temperature, creek width, and tide. Sightings with headstands (p = 0.009), hard stops (p = 0.019), chasing (p = 0.004), mudbank whacking (p < 0.001), herding/circling (p = 0.024), and strand feeding (p = 0.006) were correlated with shallow water or small creeks. Sightings with kerplunking (p = 0.031), mudbank whacking (p = 0.001), strand feeding (p = 0.003), and herding/circling (p = 0.026) were significantly correlated with low tide. The results of the Savannah, Georgia study were the first to characterize foraging behaviors in this area and demonstrate how bottlenose dolphins utilize the salt marsh estuary in terms of foraging. Studies like these are important to determine how dolphins forage efficiently and to provide background information on diet and foraging behavior for use in monitoring future impacts to dolphins in the Northwest Florida Panhandle and near Savannah, Georgia.

Arcabouço tectônico do Gráben de Barra de São João, Bacia de Campos Brasil

O Gráben de Barra de São João, situado na região de águas rasas da Bacia de Campos, é parte integrante do Sistema de Riftes do Cenozóico, localizado na região sudeste do Brasil. Este sistema foi formado em um evento que resultou na reativação das principais zonas de cisalhamento do Pré-Cambriano do sudeste do Brasil no Paleoceno. Neste trabalho proponho um novo arcabouço estrutural para o Gráben de Barra de São João baseado na interpretação de dados gravimétricos. Dados magnéticos aéreos, dados gravimétricos, uma linha sísmica 2D e um perfil de densidades de um poço foram utilizados como vínculos na interpretação. Para a estimativa do topo do embasamento foi necessário separar o efeito das fontes profundas no dado gravimétrico (anomalia residual). Com isso, foi realizada uma modelagem 2D direta baseada na interpretação sísmica para estimar as densidades das entidades geológicas da área em questão. Após esta modelagem, foi realizada uma inversão estrutural 3D do dado gravimétrico residual a fim de recuperar a profundidade do topo do embasamento. Este fluxograma de interpretação permitiu a identificação de um complexo arcabouço estrutural com três sistemas de falhas bem definido: Falhas normais de orientação NE-SW, e um sistema de falhas transcorrentes NW-SE e E-W. Estas orientações dividem o gráben em diversos altos e baixos internos. O dado magnético aéreo corrobora esta interpretação. A existência de rochas ultra-densas e fortemente magnéticas no embasamento foram interpretadas como um ofiolito que foi provavelmente intrudido (por obducção) na época do fechamento de um oceano no Proterozóico.

Comparing autonomous underwater vehicle (AUV) and vessel-based tracking performance for locating acoustically tagged fish

Autonomous underwater vehicles (AUV’s) are increasingly used to collect physical, chemical, and biological information in the marine environment. Recent efforts include merging AUV technology with acoustic telemetry to provide information on the distribution and movements of marine fish. We compared surface vessel and AUV tracking capabilities under rigorous conditions in coastal waters near Juneau, Alaska. Tracking surveys were conducted with a REMUS 100 AUV equipped with an integrated acoustic receiver and hydrophone. The AUV was programmed to navigate along predetermined routes to detect both reference transmitters at 20–500 m depths and tagged fish and crabs in situ. Comparable boat surveys were also conducted. Transmitter depth had a major impact on tracking performance. The AUV was equally effective or better than the boat at detecting reference transmitters in shallow water, and significantly better for transmitters at deeper depths. Similar results were observed for tagged animals. Red king crab, Paralithodes camtschaticus, at moderate depths were recorded by both tracking methods, while only the AUV detected Sablefish, Anoplopoma fimbria, at depths exceeding 500 m. Strong currents and deep depths caused problems with AUV navigation, position estimation, and operational performance, but reflect problems encountered by other AUV applications that will likely diminish with future advances, enhanced methods, and increased use.

Benthic habitats of Fish Bay, Coral Bay and the St. Thomas East End Reserve

NOAA’s National Centers for Coastal Ocean Science Biogeography Branch has mapped and characterized large portions of the coral reef ecosystems inside the U.S. coastal and territorial waters, including the U.S. Caribbean. The complementary protocols used in these efforts have enabled scientists and managers to quantitatively and qualitatively compare marine ecosystems in tropical U.S. waters. The Biogeography Branch used similar protocols to generate new benthic habitat maps for Fish Bay, Coral Bay and the St. Thomas East End Reserve (STEER). While this mapping effort marks the third time that some of these shallow-water habitats (≤40 m) have been mapped, it is the first time that nearly 100% of the seafloor has been characterized in each of these areas. It is also the first time that high resolution imagery describing seafloor depth has been collected in each of these areas. Consequently, these datasets provide new information describing the distribution of coral reef ecosystems and serve as a spatial baseline for monitoring change in the Fish Bay, Coral Bay and the STEER. Benthic habitat maps were developed for approximately 64.3 square kilometers of seafloor in and around Fish Bay, Coral Bay and the STEER. Twenty seven percent (17.5 square kilometers) of these habitat maps describe the seafloor inside the boundaries of the STEER, the Virgin Islands National Park and the Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument. The remaining 73% (46.8 square kilometers) describe the seafloor outside of these MPA boundaries. These habitat maps were developed using a combination of semi-automated and manual classification methods. Habitats were interpreted from aerial photographs and LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) imagery. In total, 155 distinct combinations of habitat classes describing the geology and biology of the seafloor were identified from the source imagery.

Benthic habitats of Buck Island Reef National Monument

NOAA’s Center for Coastal Monitoring and Assessment’s Biogeography Branch has mapped and characterized large portions of the coral reef ecosystems inside the U.S. coastal and territorial waters, including the U.S. Caribbean. The complementary protocols used in these efforts have enabled scientists and managers to quantitatively compare different marine ecosystems in tropical U.S. waters. The Biogeography Branch used these same general protocols to generate three seamless habitat maps of the Bank/Shelf (i.e., from 0 ≤50 meters) and the Bank/Shelf Escarpment (i.e., from 50 ≤1,000 meters and from 1,000 ≤ 1,830 meters) inside Buck Island Reef National Monument (BIRNM). While this mapping effort marks the fourth time that the shallow-water habitats of BIRNM have been mapped, it is the first time habitats deeper than 30 meters (m) have been characterized. Consequently, this habitat map provides information on the distribution of mesophotic and deep-water coral reef ecosystems and serves as a spatial baseline for monitoring change in the Monument. A benthic habitat map was developed for approximately 74.3 square kilometers or 98% of the BIRNM using a combination of semi-automated and manual classification methods. The remaining 2% was not mapped due to lack of imagery in the western part of the Monument at depths ranging from 1,000 to 1,400 meters. Habitats were interpreted from orthophotographs, LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) imagery and four different types of MBES (Multibeam Echosounder) imagery. Three minimum mapping units (MMUs) (100, 1,000 and 5,000 square meters) were used because of the wide range of depths present in the Monument. The majority of the area that was characterized was deeper than 30 m on the Bank/Shelf Escarpment. This escarpment area was dominated by uncolonized sand which transitioned to mud as depth increased. Bedrock was exposed in some areas of the escarpment, where steep slopes prevented sediment deposition. Mesophotic corals were seen in the underwater video, but were too sparsely distributed to be reliably mapped from the source imagery. Habitats on the Bank/Shelf were much more variable than those seen on the Bank/Shelf Escarpment. The majority of this shelf area was comprised of coral reef and hardbottom habitat dominated by various forms of turf, fleshy, coralline or filamentous algae. Even though algae was the dominant biological cover type, nearly a quarter (24.3%) of the Monument’s Bank/Shelf benthos hosted a cover of 10%-<50% live coral. In total, 198 unique combinations of habitat classes describing the geography, geology and biology of the sea-floor were identified from the three types of imagery listed above. No thematic accuracy assessment was conducted for areas deeper than about 50 meters, most of which was located in the Bank/Shelf Escarpment. The thematic accuracy of classes in waters shallower than approximately 50 meters ranged from 81.4% to 94.4%. These thematic accuracies are similar to those reported for other NOAA benthic habitat mapping efforts in St. John (>80%), the Main Eight Hawaiian Islands (>84.0%) and the Republic of Palau (>80.0%). These digital maps products can be used with confidence by scientists and resource managers for a multitude of different applications, including structuring monitoring programs, supporting management decisions, and establishing and managing marine conservation areas. The final deliverables for this project, including the benthic habitat maps, source imagery and in situ field data, are available to the public on a NOAA Biogeography Branch website (http://ccma.nos.noaa.gov/ecosystems/coralreef/stcroix.aspx) and through an interactive, web-based map application (http://ccma.nos.noaa.gov/explorer/biomapper/biomapper.html?id=BUIS). This report documents the process and methods used to create the shallow to deep-water benthic habitat maps for BIRNM. Chapter 1 provides a short introduction to BIRNM, including its history, marine life and ongoing research activities. Chapter 2 describes the benthic habitat classification scheme used to partition the different habitats into ecologically relevant groups. Chapter 3 explains the steps required to create a benthic habitat map using a combination of semi-automated and visual classification techniques. Chapter 4 details the steps used in the accuracy assessment and reports on the thematic accuracy of the final shallow-water map. Chapter 5 summarizes the type and abundance of each habitat class found inside BIRNM, how these habitats compare to past habitat maps and outlines how these new habitat maps may be used to inform future management activities.

Assessment of natural resource conditions in and adjacent to Dry Tortugas National Park

This project characterized and assessed the condition of coastal water resources in the Dry Tortugas National Park (DRTO) located in the Florida Keys. The goal of the assessment was to: (1) identify the state of knowledge of natural resources that exist within the DRTO, (2) summarize the state of knowledge about natural and anthropogenic stressors and threats that affected these resources, and (3) describe strategies being implemented by DRTO managers to meet their resource management goals. The park, located in the Straits of Florida 113 km (70 miles) west of Key West, is relatively small (269 square kilometers) with seven small islands and extensive shallow water coral reefs. Significant natural resources within DRTO include coastal and oceanic waters, coral reefs, reef fisheries, seagrass beds, and sea turtle and bird nesting habitats. This report focuses on marine natural resources identified by DRTO resource managers and researchers as being vitally important to the Tortugas region and the wider South Florida ecosystem. Selected marine resources included physical resources (geology, oceanography, and water quality) and biological resources (coral reef and hardbottom benthic assemblages, seagrass and algal communities, reef fishes and macro invertebrates, and wildlife [sea turtles and sea-birds]). In the past few decades, some of these resources have deteriorated because of natural and anthropogenic factors that are local and global in scale. To meet mandated goals (Chapter 1), resource managers need information on: (1) the types and condition of natural and cultural resources that occur within the park and (2) the stressors and threats that can affect those resources. This report synthesizes and summarizes information on: (1) the status of marine natural resources occurring at DRTO; and (2) types of stressors and threats currently affecting those resources at the DRTO. Based on published information, the assessment suggests that marine resources at DRTO and its surrounding region are affected by several stressors, many of which act synergistically. Of the nine resource components assessed, one resource category – water quality – received an ecological condition ranking of "Good"; two components – the nonliving portion of coral reef and hardbottom and reef fishes – received a rating of "Caution"; and two components – the biotic components of coral reef and hardbottom substrates and sea turtles – received a rating of "Significant concern" (Table E-1). Seagrass and algal communities and seabirds were unrated for ecological condition because the available information was inadequate. The stressor category of tropical storms was the dominant and most prevalent stressor in the Tortugas region; it affected all of the resource components assessed in this report. Commercial and recreational fishing were also dominant stressors and affected 78% of the resource components assessed. The most stressed resource was the biotic component of coral reef and hardbottom resources, which was affected by 76% of the stressors. Water quality was the least affected; it was negatively affected by 12% of stressors. The systematic assessment of marine natural resources and stressors in the Tortugas region pointed to several gaps in the information. For example, of the nine marine resource components reviewed in this report, the living component of coral reefs and hardbottom resources had the best rated information with 25% of stressor categories rated "Good" for information richness. In contrast, the there was a paucity of information for seagrass and algal communities and sea birds resource components.