Raat Ki Rani : nightclubs, vamps and urban transgressive spaces in Hindi cinema

This paper considers how city spaces in Hindi cinema have repeatedly been viewed as sites of transgressive sexual experience, particularly via representations of female sexuality in nightclubs and the flagrant performances of the women or ‘vamps’ that inhabit them. Emerging in Hindi cinema in the 1950s, and becoming a staple in films of the 1960s and 1970s, the ‘vamp’ became synonymous with unrestrained sexuality and the immorality of the city. The dichotomy between the idealised, bucolic, timeless village and the city as an icon of degenerate modernity was repeatedly seen in Hindi cinema, and the strongest signifier of this urban immorality was the ‘vamp’ who was seen as an outsider, and connoted urban vice, excess and desire. By and large the actresses that played ‘vamps’ (such as the blonde haired and blue eyed Helen) were of ‘Western’ appearance. The cabaret and nightclub were thus seen as being ‘Western’ in origin. This paper discusses how this was perhaps a response to colonial and Orientalist stereotyping, where the ‘Indian’ woman and the ‘Western’ woman operated as binary oppositional structures. Such oppositions were clearly present in nightclub dance performances, which were full of meaning to the cinematic audience, who would be able to ‘read’ the seductive, gyrating and explicit movements. This paper decodes examples of the movements in these ‘decadent’ performances, as it was through these movements and performances that the ‘westernised vamp’ became firmly located in urban transgressive spaces, closely tied with national anxiety about the depravity of city spaces.

Hats of affect : a study of affect, achievements and hats in Team Fortress 2

An iconic staple of the First-Person Shooter genre, Team Fortress 2 , is popular for its chaotic action, distinguished by its painterly aesthetics, and made unique by the introduction of hats as rewards for its players. This study investigates the intersection of virtual millinery items, player achievements, user generated content and the implications for online gamer personas as they are connected to the digital distribution platform, Steam. The article examines the iterations of affect involved in the design and play of a game no longer imagined by its publisher, the Valve Corporation, as a distinct commodity but rather a commercial community service.

Aquaculture : a newly emergent food production sector-and perspectives of its impacts on biodiversity and conservation

The fisheries sector in the course of the last three decades have been transformed from a developed country to a developing country dominance. Aquaculture, the farming of waters, though a millennia old tradition during this period has become a significant contributor to food fish production, currently accounting for nearly 50 % of global food fish consumption; in effect transforming our dependence from a hunted to a farmed supply as for all our staple food types. Aquaculture and indeed the fisheries sector as a whole is predominated in the developing countries, and accordingly the development strategies adopted by the sector are influenced by this. Aquaculture also being a newly emerged food production sector has being subjected to an increased level of public scrutiny, and one of the most contentious aspects has been its impacts on biodiversity. In this synthesis an attempt is made to assess the impacts of aquaculture on biodiversity. Instances of major impacts on biodiversity conservation arising from aquaculture, such as land use, effluent discharge, effects on wild populations, alien species among others are highlighted and critically examined. The influence of paradigm changes in development strategies and modern day market forces have begun to impact on aquaculture developments. Consequently, improvements in practices and adoption of more environmentally friendly approaches that have a decreasing negative influence on biodiversity conservation are highlighted. An attempt is also made to demonstrate direct and or indirect benefits of aquaculture, such as through being a substitute to meet human needs for food, particularly over-exploited and vulnerable fish stocks, and for other purposes (e.g. medicinal ingredients), on biodiversity conservation, often a neglected entity.

Extending the theory of metaphor in marketing : the case of the art gallery

This study analyses the metaphor of spirituality in the non-profit art gallery, a metaphor overlooked in previous marketing research. Using content analysis and interviews in a single depth case study, this article illustrates how spirituality has been a staple in the non-profit art gallery over time. It was found that even though the non-profit art gallery acknowledges its use of spirituality, it has a paradoxical attitude to it. Therefore this article (a) traces the historical influences that led to the extension of metaphor in the art gallery and its relationship to marketing theory, and (b) draws on Hunt and Menon (1995) to identify deliberate and emergent strategies using metaphor in the non-profit cultural organisation.

Evolution of moisture management behavior of high-wicking 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics

Moisture management behavior is a vital factor in evaluating thermal and physiological comfort of functional textiles. This research work studies functional 3 dimensional (3D) warp knitted spacer fabrics containing high-wicking materials characterized by their profiled cross section. These spacer fabrics can be used for protective vest to absorb a user’s sweat, to reduce the humidity and improve user’s thermal comfort. For this reason, different 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced with functional fiber yarns in the back layer of the fabric (close to the body) and polyester in the front and middle layers (outer surface). Comfort properties such as air and water vapor permeability and wicking and other moisture management properties (MMP) of different fabric samples were measured. It is demonstrated that by using profiled fibers such as Coolmax fiber, moisture management properties of spacer fabrics can be improved, enabling them to be use as a snug-fitting shirt worn under protective vests with improved comfort.

Variation in the whiteness and brightness of white Australian cashmere associated with farm of origin and fibre attributes

While white cashmere is preferred by processors, its whiteness and brightness is affected by country of origin, amino acid composition, nutrition and cashmere production of goats. This work aimed to quantify the factors which affect the whiteness and brightness of 36 batches of processed Australian white cashmere sourced from nine different farms. The cashmere was tested for tristimulus values brightness (Y) and whiteness, as measured by yellowness (Y-Z). Linear models, relating Y and Y-Z were fitted to farm of origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 16.9 µm (13.9–20.4 μm); fibre curvature, 45°/mm (31–59°/mm); clean washing yield, 91.3% (79.5–97.3%); Y, 78.7 (74.7–82.2); Y-Z, 11.9 (10.3–13.6). Farm alone accounted for 72% of the variation in Y and 65% of the variation in Y-Z (P < 0.001). Once farm had been taken into account only fibre curvature (P = 0.003) was significant in predicting Y and only clean washing yield (P = 0.047) affected Y-Z. Neither the proportion of the fleece present as guard hair (clean cashmere yield) nor cashmere staple length was a significant determinant of Y or Y-Z. For each 10°/mm increase in fibre curvature Y increased 1.3 units. For each 10% increase in clean washing yield Y-Z declined 0.9 units. Variations in Y and Y-Z among farms were probably related to differences in geographic and climatic conditions and were significantly correlated to cashmere production. The effect of clean washing yield was probably related to a reduction in suint content.

Variation in the whiteness and brightness of mohair associated with farm, season, and mohair attributes

This work aimed to quantify factors affecting the reflectance attributes of Australian white mohair sourced from five different farms and to evaluate the effect of season and year on mohair grown by goats of known genetic origin in a replicated study. For the season study the mohair was harvested every three months for two years. All goats and their fleeces were weighed. Mid-side samples were tested for fibre diameter attributes, clean washing yield (CWY), staple length (SL) and for tristimulus values X, Y, Z and Y-Z. For the farm study (n = 196), linear models, relating Y, Z and Y-Z were fitted to farm of origin and other objective measurements. For the season and year study (n = 176), data were analysed by ANOVA and then by linear analysis. The variation accounted for by farm alone was: X, 22%; Y, 24%; Z, 12%; Y-Z, 30% (P < 0.001). Once farm had been taken into account, the regression models for X, Y and Z had similar significant terms: mean fibre diameter (MFD), CWY, SL and fibre diameter CV; and correlation coefficients (057–0.65). For Y-Z, in addition to farm only MFD was significant (P = 1.8 × 10−9). While X, Y, Z and Y-Z were significantly associated with clean fleece weight (CFwt), CFwt was not significant in any final model. Season affected mohair Y (P = 2.5 × 10−24), Z (P = 2.3 × 10−20) and Y-Z (P = 6.8 × 10−22). Autumn grown mohair had higher Y and Z, and summer grown mohair had lower Z than mohair grown in other seasons. This resulted in summer grown mohair having the highest Y-Z and winter grown mohair having the lowest Y-Z than mohair grown in other seasons. The differences between years in Y, Z and Y-Z were significant but not large. When Y, Z and Y-Z were modeled with season and other mohair attributes, MFD, CWY, CFwt, incidence of medullated fibre (Med) and sire were also significant terms. This model accounted for 62.1% of the variance. Over the range of Med (0.3–4.2%), Y-Z increased by 11 T units. Increasing CFwt 0.5 kg was associated with a decline in Y-Z of 7.5 T units. The variation in Y, Z and Y-Z associated with sire effects were respectively 2.66, 3.77, and 1.04 T units. In the farm and the season studies increasing MFD was associated with lower Y and Z and higher Y-Z. The extent of the differences in tristimulus values between seasons and years, were unlikely to be of commercial importance. The extent of the differences between farms, and to variations in MFD and Med were large enough to be of commercial importance. Clean mohair colour was artefactually biased by MFD.

Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.

Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

The prickle evoked by 48 knitted fabrics was assessed by wearers under a defined evaluation protocol. The relationship between the average wearer prickle score and known properties of constituent fibre, yarns and fabrics and fabric evaluation using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) was determined using linear modelling. After log transformation, the best model accounted for 87.7% of the variance. The major share of variation could be attributed to differences between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and WCM values. Low prickle scores were linearly associated with lower MFD, lower WCM and lower yarn linear density. There was an indication that yarn twist affected prickle scores and that fabrics composed of cotton evoked less prickle. Measures of fibre diameter distribution or coarse fibre incidence and other fabric properties were not significant. The analysis indicates that wool garments can be constructed to keep wearer assessed prickle to barely detectable levels and textile designers can manipulate a range of parameters to achieve similar wearer comfort responses.

The relationship between the incidence of medullated fibres in mohair and live weight over the lifetime of Angora goats

The presence of even a small amount of medullated fibre, in otherwise high quality mohair, may have a pronounced adverse effect on its value and end-use potential. However, there is considerable confusion about the effects, if any, of environmental variables and management upon the incidence of medullated fibres in mohair. This study examined how the incidence of medullated fibres (Med, % by number) is related to the fleece-free live weight (FFLwt) of Angora goats of different genetic origins over their lifetime, and how the relationship varies with other lifetime factors. Measurements were made over 11 shearing periods of 6 months, on a population of Angora goats representing the current range and diversity of genetic origins in Australia, including South African, Texan and interbred admixtures of these and Australian sources. Records of breed, sire, dam, date of birth, dam age, birth weight, birth parity, weaning weight, live weight, fleece growth and fleece quality were taken for castrated males (wethers) (n = 94 animals). A restricted maximum likelihood (REML) model was developed for log10(Med + 1), which allowed the observations of the same animal at different ages to be correlated in an unstructured manner. Med varied between 0.1% and 4.3%. The median average FFLwt during a shearing interval increased from 15 kg at 1 year old to 59 kg at 6 years old. Generally, within each shearing interval, Med increased with increasing average FFLwt. However, the size and shape of the relationship differed greatly between shearing ages. For example, at 3.5 years of age Med increased from about 1.1% at an average FFLwt of 26 kg to 2.6% at 50 kg, whilst at 5.0 years of age Med only changed from 1.4% at 32 kg to 1.6% at 56 kg. Goats with mixed genetic parentage showed an increase in Med at some shearings, particularly at younger ages. Variation in animal nutrition, as measured by live weight change during shearing periods, did not affect Med. The results supplement our earlier findings that mohair mean fibre diameter and clean mohair fleece weight, but not staple length, are greater in larger Angora goats. Live weight needs to be taken into account in genetic evaluation of the incidence of medullated fibres. We conclude that any advantage in handling fewer but larger Angora goats rather than more but smaller goats will come at the detriment of producing lower quality mohair, both in terms of increased Med and mean fibre diameter.

The relationship of the incidence of medullated fibres to the dimensional properties of mohair over the lifetime of Angora goats

In a range of animals, increasing mean fibre diameter (MFD) of fibre is associated with an increasing incidence of medullated fibres (Med). It would thus be expected that Med in mohair fleeces, from animals in a flock, would be related to the MFD of those fleeces. MFD of mohair is not the only dimensional attribute of fibres. Med in mohair is phenotypically and genetically related to the size of animals. This study examined how Med is related to dimensional properties of mohair over the lifetime of Angora goats and how the relationship varies with other lifetime factors. The relationship found is then examined to determine the extent that the relationship can be explained by variations in animal size of the goats. Measurements were made over 11 shearing periods on a population of Angora goats representing the current range and diversity of genetic origins in Australia, including South African, Texan and interbred admixtures of these and Australian sources. Records of breed, sire, dam, date of birth, dam age, birth weight, birth parity, weaning weight, live weight, fleece growth and fleece attributes were taken for castrated males (wethers). Animals’ fleece-free live weight (FFLwt, kg) were determined for each goat at shearing time by subtracting the greasy fleece weight from the live weight recorded immediately prior to shearing. The average of the FFLwt at the start of the period and the FFLwt at the end of the period was calculated. Two restricted maximum likelihood (REML) models were developed to relate Med to MFD, staple length (SL) and other lifetime factors. One model allowed FFLwt in the model and the other excluded FFLwt. With the exception of the 1.5 years shearing, Med strongly increased with increasing MFD whether or not adjustments were made for FFLwt measurements. In particular Med increased by 2.0% for each 1 μm increase in MFD, with no adjustment for FFLwt measurements, and increased by 1.5% for each 1 μm increase in MFD, with adjustment for FFLwt measurements. Within each shearing interval increasing average FFLwt was associated with increasing incidence of Med in a similar way to that which has been previously reported without including MFD in the model. There was no evidence that SL needed to be included in the models for Med. Mohair grown by the goats of Mixed genetic background grew mohair which had a higher incidence of Med at ages 2 and 2.5 years and the trend was apparent in other shearing periods. We can conclude that there is both a large response of Med to live weight and a large response to MFD, and that these responses are largely functionally separate. While the response to MFD is in accord with earlier work, there is an unrelated and unreported physiological mechanism that favours the production of Med in larger Angora goats. Clearly, larger Angora goats are biologically different compared with smaller animals from the same flock, in ways that are not purely related to the allometrics of size.