In vitro evaluation of the safety profile of cosmeceuticals containing growth factors and their analogues

Introduction: Aging skin is a condition that affects (or will affect) all people, and its treatment is considered a clinical challenge. Growth factors and their analogues are emerging as a promising therapeutic option. Objectives: To evaluate the safety profile of some dermocosmetic products with formulations based on growth factors - or their analogs intended for that purpose - using in vitro human skin cell culture models. Methods: Two types of cell cultures were studied, and the effects of the study products on the proliferation of melanoma cells and normal human fibroblasts were evaluated. Results: No significant morphological alterations were found in the cultured human melanoma, and no significant decrease in the number of healthy cells was verified in the normal fibroblasts culture. In some cases there was even a proliferation of those cells. Conclusions: These preliminary data demonstrate that cosmeceutical products containing growth factors as an active principle can be considered safe for topical application.

Estudo da segurança de cosméticos: Presente e futuro

Cosmetics have been used since ancient times and, recently, their consumption has increased greatly in many countries, including brazil, which is the third largest consumer market in the world. Thus, concern for the safety and efficacy of these products should be heightened, even though these products are rarely related to adverse reactions that damage the health. Brazilian law requires manufacturers to subject their products to safety testing, to assess the possible reactions that could be caused by them (irritation, sensitization, systemic effects). To this end, in general, animals have been used as the experimental model, but this practice is being increasingly controlled, so that the scientific community is looking for alternative tests that do not require experimental in vivo models. Thus, this review aims to describe the main biological assays used to assess the safety of cosmetics, as well as in vitro assays that can replace them.

Ureasil-polyether hybrid film-forming materials

The objectives of this work were to study the suitability and highlight the advantages of the use of cross-linked ureasil-polyether hybrid matrices as film-forming systems. The results revealed that ureasil-polyethers are excellent film-forming systems due to specific properties, such as their biocompatibility, their cosmetic attractiveness for being able to form thin and transparent films, their short drying time to form films and their excellent bioadhesion compared to the commercial products known as strong adhesives. Rheological measurements have demonstrated the ability of these hybrid matrices to form a film in only a few seconds and Water Vapor Transmitting Rate (WVTR) showed adequate semi-occlusive properties suggesting that these films could be used as skin and wound protectors. Both the high skin bioadhesion and non-cytotoxic character seems to be improved by the presence of multiple amine groups in the hybrid molecules. © 2012 Elsevier B.V.

Como desenhar e escrever um protocolo de pesquisa clínica em Cosmiatria

Cosmetic Dermatology is a growing subspecialty. High-quality basic science studies have been published; however, few double-blind, randomized controlled clinical trials, which are the major instrument for evidence-based medicine, have been conducted in this area. Clinical research is essential for the discovery of new knowledge, improvement of scientific basis, resolution of challenges, and good clinical practice. Some basic principles for a successful researcher include interest, availability, persistence, and honesty. It is essential to learn how to write a protocol research and to know the international and national regulatory rules. A complete clinical trial protocol should include question, background, objectives, methodology (design, variable description, sample size, randomization, inclusion and exclusion criteria, intervention, efficacy and safety measures, and statistical analysis), consent form, clinical research form, and references. Institutional ethical review board approval and financial support disclosure are necessary. Publication of positive or negative results should be an authors' commitment. © 2013 by Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia.

Evaluation of skin hydration after exposition to the aqueous and hydroalcoholic bases and silicone emulsion

Several dermocosmetic bases even without active substances, can increase the cutaneous hydration, resulting in a beneficial effect to the skin. The evidence and interpretation of possible hydration effect of formulations in the skin can be carried through by means of histopathological and histomorphometrical evaluation, a time that allows the analysis of the epithelial tissue, of dermis and also of the cellular characteristics. The objective of this research was to evaluate the skin hydration after exposition to the aqueous and hydroalcoholic bases and silicone emulsion. Swines had areas submitted to treatments during 15 days with three different formulations (F1 - aqueous gel, F2 - hydroalcoholic gel and F3 - silicone emulsion). By means of histometric and histopathological techniques were gotten the thickness of the epidermis and stratum corneum. Comparison of means was done using ANOVA followed by the Tukey test. The F1 provoked significant increase in the thickness of the epidermis. The formulaton F2 provoked significant reduction in the thickness of the epidermis and stratum corneum. F3 not presented significant difference in this structures. According to the study, the type of base chosen intervenes with the skin hydration.

Photoprotective and antioxidant effects of Rhubarb: Inhibitory action on tyrosinase and tyrosine kinase activities and TNF-α, IL-1α and α-MSH production in human melanocytes

Background: Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various forms of acute and chronic skin damage, including immunosuppression, inflammation, premature aging and photodamage. Furthermore, it induces the generation of reactive oxygen species, produces proinflammatory cytokines and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and increases tyrosinase activity. The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential photoprotective effects of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract on human UV-stimulated melanocytes.Methods: The effects of Rheum rhaponticum rhizome extract on tyrosine kinase activity, and on interleukin-1α (IL-1α), tumour necrosis factor α (TNF-α), and α-MSH production in human epidermal melanocytes were evaluated under UV-stimulated and non-stimulated conditions. Antioxidant activity was evaluated by lipid peroxidation and 1,1-dyphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) assays, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated by the mushroom tyrosinase method.Results: Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract showed in vitro antioxidant properties against lipid peroxidation, free radical scavenging and anti-tyrosinase activities, and inhibited the production of IL-1α, TNF-α, α-MSH, and tyrosine kinase activity in melanocytes subjected to UV radiation.Conclusions: These results support the inclusion of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract into cosmetic, sunscreen and skin care products for the prevention or reduction of photodamage. © 2013 Silveira et al; licensee BioMed Central Ltd.

From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly products with improved skin fat levels

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes. The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG (SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil (GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream). Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. © 2013 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.

Determination of the Real Influence of the Addition of Four Thickening Agents in Creams Using Rheological Measurements

This study aimed to characterize different emulsions obtained by the addition of four thickening agents, using rheological measurements, beyond analyzing the emulsions by polarized light microscopy looking for liquid crystals on them. The addition of these four thickening agents did not modify the base emulsion rheology, only an improvement in the sensory of the formulation was verified. The polarized light microscopy showed the formation of liquid crystalline structures in all the formulations, thus, the thickening agents did not influence in this parameter too. However, the emulsions could be considered appropriated for cosmetic purposes, probably being highly physically stable. © 2013 Copyright Taylor and Francis Group, LLC.

A 12-month follow-up of hypopigmentation after laser hair removal

Introduction: Laser hair removal is becoming an increasingly popular alternative to traditional methods such as shaving, waxing, among other methods. Semiconductor diode lasers are considered the most efficient light sources available and are especially well suited for clinical applications including hair reduction. The effectiveness of laser hair reduction depends on many variables, including the skin type of the patient. Material and Methods: A patient with Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV was submitted to laser hair removal of the arms with a high-power diode laser system with long pulses with a wavelength of 800 nm, a fluence of 40 J/cm2 and a pulse width of 20 ms. A 12-month follow-up assessment was performed and included photography and questionnaire. Results: Hypopigmentation was observed after a single laser hair removal section. After 6 months with the area totally covered, a gradual suntan with a sun screen lotion with an SPF of 15 was prescribed by the dermatologist. After 12 months of the initial treatment, a complete recovery of the hypopigmentation was achieved. Conclusion: Although a safe procedure, lasers for hair removal may be associated with adverse side effects including undesired pigment alterations. Before starting a laser hair removal treatment, patients seeking the eradication of hair should be informed that temporary, and possibly permanent, pigmentary changes may occur. © 2013 Informa UK, Ltd.

Effect of Various Thickening Agents on the Rheological Properties of Oil-in-Water Emulsions Containing Nonionic Emulsifier

The knowledge of rheological characteristics can indicate the emulsions properties, thus, nowadays rheology is used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, even to study the influence of rheological additives on them. Ten emulsions were prepared with 5% and 10% of nonionic emulsifier. Two of them were used as controls while in the others were added thickening agents. Rheological analyses were performed. The results showed that all emulsions are non-Newtonian, thixotropics and viscoelastics fluids. The thickening agents could modify the rheological characteristics of the emulsions and knowing the influence of them is easy to adopt one to reach the desirable performance. © 2013 Copyright Taylor and Francis Group, LLC.

Towards an insight on photodamage in hair fibre by UV-light: An experimental and theoretical study

Synopsis: Objectives: In this research, an experimental and theoretical study was conducted to design a photodegradation mechanism of the amino acid tryptophan (Trp) in hair fibres. Methods: For the experimental research, Caucasian hair fibres were exposed to several different solar radiation simulation periods. Then, Trp and its photoproducts (N-formylkynurenine and kynurenine) were assayed by excitation and emission spectroscopic analysis. Results: For the theoretical study, reactions involved in the photodegradation of Trp were evaluated by high-level quantum mechanical calculations in a density functional theory (DFT) framework which indicate a probable Trp degradation mechanism with a minimum expended energy pathway. Conclusion: The biochemistry concerning these reactions is essentially important for a biological system where the degradation of Trp occurs. © 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Physicochemical and bioactive properties of Hymenaea courbaril L. pulp and seed lipid fraction

This study aimed to assess the nutritional composition of the fruit and the physicochemical and bioactive properties of jatoba (Hymenaea courbaril L.) pulp and seed oils. The lipid content of both fractions was below 6%. There was a significant presence of minerals, especially, sodium, potassium and phosphorus. The main macronutrient in pulp and seed was crude fiber, and considerable amounts of Vitamin C, 51.87 and 121.45. mg/100. g respectively, were found. The physicochemical properties demonstrated the good quality of the oils. The oxidative stability index was influenced by the composition of fatty acids reaching a value of 45.97. h for the jatoba pulp oil. The most abundant bioactive compounds were α-tocopherol (886.37 and 993.63. mg/kg) and β-sitosterol (61.83 and 91.09. mg/kg) for pulp and seed oils, respectively. Among the unsaturated fatty acids in the pulp, the oleic (46.09%) and linolenic acid (14.54%) stood out. The pulp and seed oils can be considered a valuable source for new industrial, cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. © 2013 Elsevier B.V.

Endaural access to remove the projectile from a firearm

Background: Surgical approaches to temporomandibular region have been the subject of numerous controversies in the literature. Pre-auricular approaches have been used with the observance of high success rate, and during surgery history, various modifications of this approach were conducted in order to reduce irreversible sequelae. Thus, given the relevance of the study, this article proposes to alert the professionals that carry out these surgical approaches in relation to the anatomical structures involved and to describe and emphasise the benefits of endaural approach. Case report: A Caucasian male patient, victim of a firearm injury, sustained a wound on the right pre-auricular region, and at the time of assessment, he complained of pain, mouth opening difficulty and dysphagia. On physical examination, there was oedema and ecchymosis in the right periorbital region. In the radiological examination, a foreign body compatible with a firearm projectile was observed in the right pre-auricular region, being in accordance with the information collected. The endaural incision and divulsion by plans was then made until the projectile. Discussion: For proper exposure of the region, several studies were designed to evaluate the patterns of branching and anastomosis of the facial nerve. As for the best cosmetic result with the different pre-auricular approaches, the endaural approach was described as an approach that offers great cosmetic results because the incision design guides the surgeon in the wound closure and causes a decrease in the tension of flap, unlike that observed by some authors. © 2012 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg.

Estudo comparativo entre o tratamento radioterápico com elétrons e betaterapia após cirurgia de quelóide

Pós-graduação em Bases Gerais da Cirurgia - FMB

Análise comparativa entre terapia fotodinâmica com ácido 5-aminolevulínico versus crioterapia no tratamento da queratose actínica: estudo prospectivo randonizado

Pós-graduação em Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento (Biotecnologia Médica) - FMB