Effects of winds, tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyo, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave (ISW) packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS). Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.

Dynamics of the cold-water event off the southeast coast of the United States in the summer of 2003

The cold-water event along the southeast coast of the United States in the summer of 2003 is studied using satellite data combined with in situ observations. The analysis suggests that the cooling is produced by wind-driven coastal upwelling, which breaks the thermocline barrier in the summer of 2003. The strong and persistent southwesterly winds in the summer of 2003 play an important role of lifting the bottom isotherms up to the surface and away from the coast, generating persistent surface cooling in July-August 2003. Once the thermocline barrier is broken, the stratification in the nearshore region is weakened substantially, allowing further coastal cooling of large magnitudes by episodic southerly wind bursts or passage of coastally trapped waves at periods of a few days. These short-period winds or waves would otherwise have no effects on the surface temperature because of the strong thermocline barrier in summer if not for the low-frequency cooling produced by the persistent southwesterly winds.

Guided waves in a fluid-loaded transversely isotropic place

Dispersion relations are obtained for the propagation of symmetric and antisymmetric modes in a free transversely isotropic plate. Dispersion curves are plotted for the first four symmetric modes for a magnesium plate immersed in water. The first mode is highly damped and switches over to the second mode when the normalized frequency exceeds 12.

Under-water scene investigation using ground penetrating radar (GPR) in the search for a sunken jet ski, Northern Ireland

A search for a submerged jet ski and the lost limb of its driver involved in a collision with a speedboat was made in a shallow lake in Northern Ireland. The location of both was crucial to establishing events at the time of the accident. Local intelligence suggested both objects were likely to be partially-buried by lacustrine silt. To avoid sediment churning, this required non-invasive, completely non-destructive assessment and mapping of the scene. A MALA RAMAC ground-penetrating radar system (GPR) mounted on floats for surveying from walkways and jetties or placed in a small rubber dinghy for offshore profiling was used. A grid was established and each line surveyed with 100, 200 and 400MHz antennae. In waters over 6m deep GPR data showed the form of the lake floor but excessive ringing occurred in the data. In waters less than 6m deep ringing diminished on both 100 and 200MHz data, the latter displaying the best trade-off between depth penetration and horizontal object resolution. 400MHz data failed to be of use in waters over 2m deep and at these depths showed only limited improvement of image quality compared to 200MHz data. Surface objects such as a wooden walkway caused interference on 200 and 400MHz data when antennae were oriented both normal and parallel to survey direction; this may be a function of the low attenuation of radar waves in freshwater, allowing excellent lateral and vertical radar wave penetration. On 200MHz data the damaged jet-ski was clearly imaged in a location that contradicted the speedboat driver's account of the accident.

A Description of the Stationary Wave Pattern of a Marine Craft in Shallow and Intermediate Water Depths

A stationary phase model is used to study supercritical waves generated by high speed ferries. Some general relationships in terms of wave angle, propagation direction, dispersion relationship and depth wavelength relationship are explored and discussed. In particular, it is shown that the wave pattern generated by high speed craft at supercritical speeds depends mainly on the relationship of water depth and ship speed and that the wave patterns are similar in terms of location of crests and troughs for a given depth Froude number. In addition it is found that the far field wave pattern can be described adequately using a single moving point source. The theoretical model compares well with towing tank measurements and full scale data over a range of parameters and hull shapes. The paper also demonstrates that the far field wave pattern at supercritical speeds should be non-dimensionalised by water depth and not hull length unlike it is usually done for subcritical speeds.

The hydrodynamics of small seabed mounted bottom hinged wave energy converters in shallow water:PhD thesis

This thesis investigates the hydrodynamics of a small, seabed mounted, bottom hinged, wave energy converter in shallow water. The Oscillating Wave Surge Converter is a pitching flap-type device which is located in 10-15m of water to take advantage of the amplification of horizontal water particle motion in shallow water. A conceptual model of the hydrodynamics of the device has been formulated and shows that, as the motion of the flap is highly constrained, the magnitude of the force applied to the flap by the wave is strongly linked to the power absorption.

An extensive set of experiments has been carried out in the wave tank at Queen’s University at both 40th and 20th scales. The experiments have included testing in realistic sea states to estimate device performance as well as fundamental tests using small amplitude monochromatic waves to determine the force applied to the flap by the waves. The results from the physical modelling programme have been used in conjunction with numerical data from WAMIT to validate the conceptual model.

The work finds that tuning the OWSC to the incident wave periods is problematic and only results in a marginal increase in power capture. It is also found that the addition of larger diameter rounds to the edges of the flap reduces viscous losses and has a greater effect on the performance of the device than tuning. As wave force is the primary driver of device performance it is shown that the flap should fill the water column and should pierce the water surface to reduce losses due to wave overtopping.

With the water depth fixed at approximately 10m it is shown that the width of the flap has the greatest impact on the magnitude of wave force, and thus device performance. An 18m wide flap is shown to have twice the absorption efficiency of a 6m wide flap and captures 6 times the power. However, the increase in power capture with device width is not limitless and a 24m wide flap is found to be affected by two-dimensional hydrodynamics which reduces its performance per unit width, especially in sea states with short periods. It is also shown that as the width increases the performance gains associated with the addition of the end effectors reduces. Furthermore, it is shown that as the flap width increases the natural pitching period of the flap increases, thus detuning the flap further from the wave periods of interest for wave energy conversion.

The effect of waves approaching the flap from an oblique angle is also investigated and the power capture is found to decrease with the cosine squared of the encounter angle. The characteristic of the damping applied by the power take off system is found to have a significant effect on the power capture of the device, with constant damping producing between 20% and 30% less power than quadratic damping. Furthermore, it is found that applying a higher level of damping, or a damping bias, to the flap as it pitches towards the beach increases the power capture by 10%.

A further set of experiments has been undertaken in a case study used to predict the power capture of a prototype of the OWSC concept. The device, called the Oyster Demonstrator, has been developed by Aquamarine Power Ltd. and is to be installed at the European Marine Energy Centre, Scotland, in 2009.

The work concludes that OWSC is a viable wave energy converter and absorption efficiencies of up 75% have been measured. It is found that to maximise power absorption the flap should be approximately 20m wide with large diameter rounded edges, having its pivot close to the seabed and its top edge piercing the water surface.

The influence of water motion on the growth rate of the kelp Laminaria hyperborea

The kelp Laminaria hyperborea is a dominant component of the subtidal nearshore ecosystem and is subjected to a heterogeneous wave and current climate. Water motion is known to influence physiological processes in macroalgae such as photosynthesis and nutrient uptake attributed to mass-transfer limitation. The study attempts to establish the effect of water motion on the growth rates of blades and elongation rates of the stipes of L. hyperborea at adjacent wave-exposed and wave-sheltered locations over a 12month period from field observations. The observations were supported by detailed physical and chemical measurements (light, temperature, seawater nutrient concentrations and hydrodynamics) and of tissue carbon and nitrogen concentrations together with δ¹³carbon. Despite a 30% difference in the root mean square of the velocity (Vel_rms) between the two survey locations, there was no evidence to suggest that water motion had any direct influence on the growth rates of either the blades or elongation of stipes of L. hyperborea. No significant differences were observed between either environmental or plant physiological variables between the sheltered and exposed locations. Using an integral velocity parameter (Vel_rms) the present study also highlighted the importance of the tidally induced current component of water flow in the subtidal zone. 

Time-lapse monitoring of climate effects on earthworks using surface waves

The UK’s transportation network is supported by critical geotechnical assets (cuttings/embankments/dams) that require sustainable, cost-effective management, while maintaining an appropriate service level to meet social, economic, and environmental needs. Recent effects of extreme weather on these geotechnical assets have highlighted their vulnerability to climate variations. We have assessed the potential of surface wave data to portray the climate-related variations in mechanical properties of a clay-filled railway embankment. Seismic data were acquired bimonthly from July 2013 to November 2014 along the crest of a heritage railway embankment in southwest England. For each acquisition, the collected data were first processed to obtain a set of Rayleigh-wave dispersion and attenuation curves, referenced to the same spatial locations. These data were then analyzed to identify a coherent trend in their spatial and temporal variability. The relevance of the observed temporal variations was also verified with respect to the experimental data uncertainties. Finally, the surface wave dispersion data sets were inverted to reconstruct a time-lapse model of S-wave velocity for the embankment structure, using a least-squares laterally constrained inversion scheme. A key point of the inversion process was constituted by the estimation of a suitable initial model and the selection of adequate levels of spatial regularization. The initial model and the strength of spatial smoothing were then kept constant throughout the processing of all available data sets to ensure homogeneity of the procedure and comparability among the obtained VS sections. A continuous and coherent temporal pattern of surface wave data, and consequently of the reconstructed VS models, was identified. This pattern is related to the seasonal distribution of precipitation and soil water content measured on site.

The role of papyrus plants (Cyperus papyrus) and internal waves in the nutrient balance of Lake Victoria, East Africa

Dissertação mest., Gestão da água e da costa, Universidade do Algarve, 2007

The generation and propagation of internal waves in Nootka Sound

senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

Intraseasonal oscillation of total precipitable water over North Indian Ocean and its application in the diagnostic study of coastal rainfall

TRMM Microwave Imager (TMI) is reported to be a useful sensor to measure the atmospheric and oceanic parameters even in cloudy conditions. Vertically integrated specific humidity, Total Precipitable Water (TPW) retrieved from the water vapour absorption channel (22GHz.) along with 10m wind speed and rain rate derived from TMI is used to investigate the moisture variation over North Indian Ocean. Intraseasonal Oscillations (ISO) of TPW during the summer monsoon seasons 1998, 1999, and 2000 over North Indian Ocean is explored using wavelet analysis. The dominant waves in TPW during the monsoon periods and the differences in ISO over Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal are investigated. The northward propagation of TPW anomaly and its coherence with the coastal rainfall is also studied. For the diagnostic study of heavy rainfall spells over the west coast, the intrusion of TPW over the North Arabian Sea is seen to be a useful tool.

Fluid mechanics-non-linear waves studies on korteweg-de vries equations

In this thesis the author has presented qualitative studies of certain Kdv equations with variable coefficients. The well-known KdV equation is a model for waves propagating on the surface of shallow water of constant depth. This model is considered as fitting into waves reaching the shore. Renewed attempts have led to the derivation of KdV type equations in which the coefficients are not constants. Johnson's equation is one such equation. The researcher has used this model to study the interaction of waves. It has been found that three-wave interaction is possible, there is transfer of energy between the waves and the energy is not conserved during interaction.

A High Order Finite Volume Scheme for the 2D Shallow Water Equations Including Topography

Inhalt dieser Arbeit ist ein Verfahren zur numerischen Lösung der zweidimensionalen Flachwassergleichung, welche das Fließverhalten von Gewässern, deren Oberflächenausdehnung wesentlich größer als deren Tiefe ist, modelliert. Diese Gleichung beschreibt die gravitationsbedingte zeitliche Änderung eines gegebenen Anfangszustandes bei Gewässern mit freier Oberfläche. Diese Klasse beinhaltet Probleme wie das Verhalten von Wellen an flachen Stränden oder die Bewegung einer Flutwelle in einem Fluss. Diese Beispiele zeigen deutlich die Notwendigkeit, den Einfluss von Topographie sowie die Behandlung von Nass/Trockenübergängen im Verfahren zu berücksichtigen. In der vorliegenden Dissertation wird ein, in Gebieten mit hinreichender Wasserhöhe, hochgenaues Finite-Volumen-Verfahren zur numerischen Bestimmung des zeitlichen Verlaufs der Lösung der zweidimensionalen Flachwassergleichung aus gegebenen Anfangs- und Randbedingungen auf einem unstrukturierten Gitter vorgestellt, welches in der Lage ist, den Einfluss topographischer Quellterme auf die Strömung zu berücksichtigen, sowie in sogenannten \glqq lake at rest\grqq-stationären Zuständen diesen Einfluss mit den numerischen Flüssen exakt auszubalancieren. Basis des Verfahrens ist ein Finite-Volumen-Ansatz erster Ordnung, welcher durch eine WENO Rekonstruktion unter Verwendung der Methode der kleinsten Quadrate und eine sogenannte Space Time Expansion erweitert wird mit dem Ziel, ein Verfahren beliebig hoher Ordnung zu erhalten. Die im Verfahren auftretenden Riemannprobleme werden mit dem Riemannlöser von Chinnayya, LeRoux und Seguin von 1999 gelöst, welcher die Einflüsse der Topographie auf den Strömungsverlauf mit berücksichtigt. Es wird in der Arbeit bewiesen, dass die Koeffizienten der durch das WENO-Verfahren berechneten Rekonstruktionspolynome die räumlichen Ableitungen der zu rekonstruierenden Funktion mit einem zur Verfahrensordnung passenden Genauigkeitsgrad approximieren. Ebenso wird bewiesen, dass die Koeffizienten des aus der Space Time Expansion resultierenden Polynoms die räumlichen und zeitlichen Ableitungen der Lösung des Anfangswertproblems approximieren. Darüber hinaus wird die wohlbalanciertheit des Verfahrens für beliebig hohe numerische Ordnung bewiesen. Für die Behandlung von Nass/Trockenübergangen wird eine Methode zur Ordnungsreduktion abhängig von Wasserhöhe und Zellgröße vorgeschlagen. Dies ist notwendig, um in der Rechnung negative Werte für die Wasserhöhe, welche als Folge von Oszillationen des Raum-Zeit-Polynoms auftreten können, zu vermeiden. Numerische Ergebnisse die die theoretische Verfahrensordnung bestätigen werden ebenso präsentiert wie Beispiele, welche die hervorragenden Eigenschaften des Gesamtverfahrens in der Berechnung herausfordernder Probleme demonstrieren.