Stability shear stress and equilibrium cross-sectional geometry of sheltered tidal channels

This study relates tidal channel cross-sectional area (A) to peak spring discharge (Q) via a physical mechanism, namely the stability shear stress ( tau sub(S)) just necessary to maintain a zero gradient in net along-channel sediment transport. It is assumed that if bed shear stress ( tau ) is greater than tau sub(S), net erosion will occur, increasing A, and reducing tau similar to (Q/A) super(2) back toward tau sub(S). If tau < tau sub(S) there will be net deposition, reducing A and increasing tau toward tau sub(S). A survey of the literature allows estimates of Q and A at 242 sections in 26 separate sheltered tidal systems. Assuming a single value of tau sub(S) characterizes the entire length of a given tidal channel, it is predicted that along-channel geometry will follow the relation Ah sub(R) super(1) super(/) super(6) similar to Q. Along-channel regressions of the form Ah sub(R) super(1) super(/) super(6) similar to Q super( beta ) give a mean observed value for beta of 1.00 plus or minus 0.06, which is consistent with this concept. Results indicate that a lower bound on tau sub(S) (and an upper bound on A) for stable channels is provided by the critical shear stress ( tau sub(C)) just capable of initiating sediment motion. Observed tau sub(S) is found to vary among all systems as a function of spring tidal range (R sub(sp)) according to the relation tau sub(S) approximately 2.3 R sub(sp) super(0.79) tau sub(C). Observed deviations from uniform tau sub(S) along individual channels are associated with along-channel variation in the direction of maximum discharge (i.e., flood-versus ebb-dominance).

Geomorphology, sedimentary processes and development of the Zenisu deep-sea channel, northern Philippine Sea

The Zenisu deep-sea channel originates on the Izu-Ogasawara island arc, and disappears in the Shikoku Basin of the Philippine Sea. The geomorphology, sedimentary processes, and the development of the Zenisu deep-sea channel were investigated on the basis of swath bathymetry, side-scan sonar imagery, submersible observations, and seismic data. The deep-sea channel can be divided into three segments according to the downslope gradient and channel orientation. They are the Zenisu Canyon, the E-W fan channel, and the trough-axis channel. The sediment fill is characterized by turbidite and debrite deposition and blocky-hummocky avalanche deposits on the flanks of the Zenisu Ridge. In the Zenisu Canyon and the Zenisu deep-sea channel, sediment transport by turbidity currents generates sediment waves (dunes) observed during the Shinkai 6500 dive 371. The development of the Zenisu Canyon is controlled by a N-S shear fault, whereas the trough-axis channel is controlled by basin subsidence associated with the Zenisu Ridge. The E-W fan channel was probably affected by the E-W fault and the basement morphology.

长江口附近海域三维悬浮泥沙的数值模拟研究

本文构建了长江口外海域三维悬浮泥沙输运数值模型，其中水动力模型中主要考虑了潮汐潮流、出入径流及风浪等作用，输运模型中考虑了粘性泥沙的絮凝、粘性和非粘性泥沙的再悬浮等过程。并与2006年8月份在长江口外海域获得的定点连续站测流资料及悬浮泥沙的观测资料进行了比较。为了进一步提高模式结果的精确性，采用将动力模式与实测资料相结合的趋近同化方法，在连续方程和泥沙输运方程中分别增加一个松弛项，将模拟结果向已有实测调和常数的控制点推算潮高值和悬沙浓度观测值趋近。数值实验证明，将验潮站资料和泥沙观测资料引入到数值模式中去，可以有效的改善模式的模拟结果。将该方法运用到长江口外附近海域的悬浮泥沙数值模拟当中，并泥沙输运水平紊动扩散系数也做了合理的修改，其模拟结果也得到了不错的改进，所得结果适用于计算长江口外海域的水动力和泥沙输运情况。 可以大体得到泥沙在长江口内外分布规律：悬浮泥沙浓度自近岸向外海降低,长江口外123°E以东浓度一般不超过10mg/l，终年悬浮泥沙高值区见于河口区,一般超过300mg/l，以长江口、杭州湾悬浮泥沙浓度最高。悬浮泥沙浓度垂向剖面的计算值与观测数据符合良好。 在潮周期中，悬浮泥沙浓度的变化与

长江口水文、泥沙过程与圆桩冲刷的数值模拟

本文主要利用ECOMSED模式对长江口及邻近海域的水文、泥沙过程进行三维数值模拟，并结合实测资料分析其水动力、泥沙输运、底床冲淤等特征；然后利用欧拉二相流模型模拟小尺度条件下长江口底床上圆桩周围的水流和泥沙冲刷、输运规律。 通过资料分析和ECOMSED数值模拟结果比较，我们得出：长江口口门内为非正规半日潮流区，潮流运动形式多为往复流，落潮流占优。落潮流速大于涨潮流速，流速垂向分布从表层到底层递减。悬沙浓度与流速关系密切，一般来说，流速越大，悬沙浓度越高；一个潮周期过程中会出现两次、三次或四次泥沙再悬浮，分别是涨急、落急、涨转落、落转涨时刻；盐水楔结构对粘性与非粘性悬沙浓度的分布起决定性作用，转流时泥沙再悬浮主要是由于这时会出现盐水楔，并形成垂向环流，使床面大量未被固结的泥沙再悬浮，形成峰值。悬浮泥沙垂向分布可分为垂线型，斜线型，抛物线型和L型。流场和底床冲淤变化与水深关系密切：深水区，流速较大，底床冲淤变化也较大。其中，受径流影响区表现为淤积，受潮流影响区表现为冲刷；浅水区基本表现为淤积。 从模式运行结果和实测资料比较可以看出，该模型可以较好的模拟长江口水流、悬浮泥沙分布与变化；能够再现在径流入海口处，盐水楔结构及其诱生的垂向环流从形成到发展，又到消失的完整过程；也能够展示底床的冲淤变化。对于我们模拟长江口背景流场，了解该区域内水动力变化、悬浮泥沙输运、底床冲淤等有重要意义。 在欧拉二相流模型对长江口底床上圆桩周围的水流和局部冲刷数值模拟过程中，我们不仅考虑水流和泥沙之间的作用，还引入泥沙颗粒之间的相互影响。模拟结果较合理的展示了圆桩周围的流场类型和底床冲刷变化：在圆桩前方，流速减小并形成垂向涡旋，从而产生局部冲刷；在圆桩两侧，水流加速，挟带上游泥沙向下输送，并在内侧堆积；而在圆桩后面，存在流速分离区。在该分离区内流速很小，并且当流速较大时，会产生回流，形成两个对称的漩涡。流速越大，圆桩前由垂向涡旋引起的局部冲刷就越明显；而当底床泥沙粒径变小时，泥沙临界起动流速变小，底床也更容易被冲刷。悬浮泥沙浓度分布受流场的影响，并且当粒径小而流速大时，能悬浮到更高的深度。

Preliminary study of the dynamic origin of the distribution pattern of bottom sediments on the continental shelves of the Bohai Sea, Yellow Sea and East China Sea

The bottom sediment types in the Bohai Sea, Yellow Sea and East China Sea (BYECS) are diversified, and their distribution pattern is very complicated. However, the bottom sediment types can be simplified to be sandy sediment, clayey sediment and mixed sediment, which comprise the complicated distribution pattern of bottom sediment in the BYECS. The continental shelves of the BYECS are broad, with shallow water depths and tidal currents which are permanent and dominate the marine dynamics in the BYECS. Based on numerical simulation of tidal elevations and currents in the BYECS, the rates of suspended load transport and bed load transport during a single tidal cycle for sediments of eight different grain size ranges are calculated. The results show that any sediment, whose threshold velocity is less than that of tidal current, has the same transport trend. Suspended load transport rare, bed load transport rate, and the ratio of the former to the latter decrease with grain size becoming coarser and coarser. The erosion/accretion patterns of sediments with different grain sizes are determined by the sediment transport rate divergences, and the results show that the patterns are the same for sediments with different grain sizes. Three main bottom sediment types, i.e. sandy sediment mainly composed of fine sand, clayey sediment mainly composed of silty clay, and mixed sediment mainly composed of fine sand, silt, and clay, are obtained by computation. The three bottom sediment types and their distribution pattern are consistent not only with sediment transport field and the sea bed erosion/accretion pattern obtained by simulation, but also with field data of bottom sediment types and divisions. In the BYECS, sand ridges form mainly in the areas with strong rectilinear tidal currents, sand sheets form mainly in the areas dominated by strong rotatory tidal currents, and clayey sediments, i.e. mud patches, form mainly in the areas with weak tidal currents. Hence, not only the sandy sediments but also the clayey sediments in the BYECS are formed under the control of the whole tidal current field of the BYECS. The three main bottom sediment types are not isolated respectively-in fact, they constitute a whole tidal depositional system. Under the condition with no cyclonic cold eddy, the clayey sediments in the BYECS can form in weak tidal current environments. Therefore, a cold eddy is not necessary for the deposition of clayey sediments in the BYECS. (C) 2000 Academic Press.

A method for semi-automated objective quantification of linear bedforms from multi-scale Digital Elevation Models

The increasing availability of large, detailed digital representations of the Earth’s surface demands the application of objective and quantitative analyses. Given recent advances in the understanding of the mechanisms of formation of linear bedform features from a range of environments, objective measurement of their wavelength, orientation, crest and trough positions, height and asymmetry is highly desirable. These parameters are also of use when determining observation-based parameters for use in many applications such as numerical modelling, surface classification and sediment transport pathway analysis. Here, we (i) adapt and extend extant techniques to provide a suite of semi-automatic tools which calculate crest orientation, wavelength, height, asymmetry direction and asymmetry ratios of bedforms, and then (ii) undertake sensitivity tests on synthetic data, increasingly complex seabeds and a very large-scale (39 000km2) aeolian dune system. The automated results are compared with traditional, manually derived,measurements at each stage. This new approach successfully analyses different types of topographic data (from aeolian and marine environments) from a range of sources, with tens of millions of data points being processed in a semi-automated and objective manner within minutes rather than hours or days. The results from these analyses show there is significant variability in all measurable parameters in what might otherwise be considered uniform bedform fields. For example, the dunes of the Rub’ al Khali on the Arabian peninsula are shown to exhibit deviations in dimensions from global trends. Morphological and dune asymmetry analysis of the Rub’ al Khali suggests parts of the sand sea may be adjusting to a changed wind regime from that during their formation 100 to 10 ka BP.

The chronostratigraphy of the Haua Fteah cave (Cyrenaica, northeast Libya)

The 1950s excavations by Charles McBurney in the Haua Fteah, a large karstic cave on the coast of northeast Libya, revealed a deep sequence of human occupation. Most subsequent research on North African prehistory refers to his discoveries and interpretations, but the chronology of its archaeological and geological sequences has been based on very early age determinations. This paper reports on the initial results of a comprehensive multi-method dating program undertaken as part of new work at the site, involving radiocarbon dating of charcoal, land snails and marine shell, cryptotephra investigations, optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of sediments, and electron spin resonance (ESR) dating of tooth enamel. The dating samples were collected from the newly exposed and cleaned faces of the upper 7.5m of the ~14.0m-deep McBurney trench, which contain six of the seven major cultural phases that he identified. Despite problems of sediment transport and reworking, using a Bayesian statistical model the new dating program establishes a robust framework for the five major lithostratigraphic units identified in the stratigraphic succession, and for the major cultural units. The age of two anatomically modern human mandibles found by McBurney in Layer XXXIII near the base of his Levalloiso-Mousterian phase can now be estimated to between 73 and 65ka (thousands of years ago) at the 95.4% confidence level, within Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 4. McBurney's Layer XXV, associated with Upper Palaeolithic Dabban blade industries, has a clear stratigraphic relationship with Campanian Ignimbrite tephra. Microlithic Oranian technologies developed following the climax of the Last Glacial Maximum and the more microlithic Capsian in the Younger Dryas. Neolithic pottery and perhaps domestic livestock were used in the cave from the mid Holocene but there is no certain evidence for plant cultivation until the Graeco-Roman period. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.

Appropriate complexity for the prediction of coastal and estuarine geomorphic behaviour at decadal to centennial scales

Coastal and estuarine landforms provide a physical template that not only accommodates diverse ecosystem functions and human activities, but also mediates flood and erosion risks that are expected to increase with climate change. In this paper, we explore some of the issues associated with the conceptualisation and modelling of coastal morphological change at time and space scales relevant to managers and policy makers. Firstly, we revisit the question of how to define the most appropriate scales at which to seek quantitative predictions of landform change within an age defined by human interference with natural sediment systems and by the prospect of significant changes in climate and ocean forcing. Secondly, we consider the theoretical bases and conceptual frameworks for determining which processes are most important at a given scale of interest and the related problem of how to translate this understanding into models that are computationally feasible, retain a sound physical basis and demonstrate useful predictive skill. In particular, we explore the limitations of a primary scale approach and the extent to which these can be resolved with reference to the concept of the coastal tract and application of systems theory. Thirdly, we consider the importance of different styles of landform change and the need to resolve not only incremental evolution of morphology but also changes in the qualitative dynamics of a system and/or its gross morphological configuration. The extreme complexity and spatially distributed nature of landform systems means that quantitative prediction of future changes must necessarily be approached through mechanistic modelling of some form or another. Geomorphology has increasingly embraced so-called ‘reduced complexity’ models as a means of moving from an essentially reductionist focus on the mechanics of sediment transport towards a more synthesist view of landform evolution. However, there is little consensus on exactly what constitutes a reduced complexity model and the term itself is both misleading and, arguably, unhelpful. Accordingly, we synthesise a set of requirements for what might be termed ‘appropriate complexity modelling’ of quantitative coastal morphological change at scales commensurate with contemporary management and policy-making requirements: 1) The system being studied must be bounded with reference to the time and space scales at which behaviours of interest emerge and/or scientific or management problems arise; 2) model complexity and comprehensiveness must be appropriate to the problem at hand; 3) modellers should seek a priori insights into what kind of behaviours are likely to be evident at the scale of interest and the extent to which the behavioural validity of a model may be constrained by its underlying assumptions and its comprehensiveness; 4) informed by qualitative insights into likely dynamic behaviour, models should then be formulated with a view to resolving critical state changes; and 5) meso-scale modelling of coastal morphological change should reflect critically on the role of modelling and its relation to the observable world.

Wave Fields around Wave Energy Converter Arrays

Wave energy converters, by their nature, extract large amounts of energy
from incident waves. If the industry is to progress such that wave energy
becomes a significant provider of power in the future, large wave farms will
be required. Presently, consenting for these sites is a long and problematic
process, mainly due to a lack of knowledge of the potential environmental
impacts. Accurate numerical modelling of the effect of wave energy extraction
on the wave field and subsequent evaluation of changes to coastal
processes is therefore required. Modelling the wave field impact is also
necessary to allow optimum wave farm configurations to be determined.
This thesis addresses the need for more accurate representation of wave
energy converters in numerical models so that the effect on the wave field,
and subsequently the coastal processes, may be evaluated. Using a hybrid
of physical and numerical modelling (MIKE21 BW and SW models) the
effect of energy extraction and operation of a WEC array on the local wave
climate has been determined.
The main outcomes of the thesis are: an improved wave basin facility, in
terms of wave climate homogeneity, reducing the standard deviation of wave
amplitude by up to 50%; experimental measurement of the wave field around
WEC arrays, showing that radiated waves account for a significant proportion
of the wave disturbance; a new representation method of WECs for use
with standard numerical modelling tools, validated against experimental
results.
The methodology and procedures developed here allow subsequent evaluation
of changes to coastal processes and sediment transport due to WEC
arrays.

Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Hydrological and photochemical influence on dynamics of estuarine bacteria

Os estuários são ecossistemas complexos, onde os processos físicos, químicos e biológicos estão intimamente ligados. A dinâmica bacteriana num estuário reflete a interação e a elevada variação temporal e espacial desses processos. Este trabalho teve como objetivo elucidar as interações entre os processos físicos, fotoquímicos e microbiológicos no sistema estuarino da Ria de Aveiro (Portugal). Para tal, foi realizada uma abordagem inicial no campo, durante a qual as comunidades bacterianas na coluna de água foram caracterizadas em termos de abundância e atividade ao longo de 2 anos. O estudo foi realizado em dois locais distintos, escolhidos por tipificarem as características marinhas e salobras do estuário. Estes locais possuem diferentes hidrodinâmicas, influências fluviais e, quantidade e composição de matéria orgânica. Numa perspectiva mecanicista, foram realizadas simulações laboratoriais no sentido de elucidar a resposta das bactérias à matéria orgânica foto-transformada. As comunidades bacterianas no estuário adaptam-se a diferentes regimes de água doce, desenvolvendo padrões de abundância e atividade distintos nas zonas marinha e salobra. Os elevados caudais dos rios induzem estratificação vertical na zona marinha, promovendo o fluxo de fitoplâncton do mar para o estuário, do bacterioplâncton do estuário para o mar, e estimulam a importação de bactérias aderentes a partículas na zona salobra. O transporte advectivo e os processos de ressuspensão contribuem para aumentar 3 vezes o número de bactérias aderentes a partículas durante os períodos de intensas descargas fluviais. Adicionalmente, a atividade bacteriana no estuário é controlada pela concentração de azoto inerente à variações de água doce. O fornecimento de azoto em associação com a fonte dos substratos bacterianos induzem alterações significativas na produtividade. O padrão de variação vertical de comunidades bacterianas foi distinto nas duas zonas do estuário. Na zona marinha, as bactérias na microcamada superficial (SML) apresentaram taxas de hidrólise mais elevadas, mas menores taxas de incorporação de monómeros e produção de biomassa que na água subjacente (UW), enquanto na zona salobra, as taxas de hidrólise e incorporação foram similares nos dois compartimentos, mas a produtividade foi significativamente mais elevada na SML. Apesar da abundância bacteriana ter sido semelhante na SML e UW, a fração de células aderentes a partículas foi significativamente maior na SML (2-3 vezes), em ambas as zonas do estuário. A integração dos resultados microbiológicos com as variáveis ambientais e hidrológicos mostraram que fortes correntes na zona marinha promovem a mistura vertical, inibindo o estabelecimento de uma comunidade bacteriana na SML distinta da UW. Em contraste, na zona de água salobra, a menor velocidades das correntes fornece as condições adequadas ao aumento da atividade bacteriana na SML. Características específicas do local, tais como a hidrodinâmica e as fontes e composição da matéria orgânica, conduzem também a diferentes graus de enriquecimento superficial de matéria orgânica e inorgânica, influenciando a sua transformação. Em geral, o ambiente da SML estuarina favorece a hidrólise de polímeros, mas inibe a utilização de monómeros, comparativamente com água subjacente. No entanto, as diferenças entre as duas comunidades tendem a atenuar-se com o aumento da atividade heterotrófica na zona salobra. A matéria orgânica dissolvida cromófora (CDOM) das duas zonas do estuário possui diferentes características espectrais, com maior aromaticidade e peso molecular médio (HMW) na zona de água salobra, em comparação com a zona marinha. Nesta zona, a abundância bacteriana correlacionou-se com a350 e a254, sugerindo uma contribuição indireta das bactéria para HMW CDOM. A irradiação do DOM resultou numa diminuição dos valores de a254 e a350, e, em um aumento do declive S275-295 e dos rácios E2:E3 (a250/a365) e SR. No entanto, a extensão de transformações foto-induzidas e as respostas microbianas são dependentes das características iniciais CDOM, inferidas a partir das suas propriedades ópticas. A dinâmica estuarina influencia claramente as atividades heterotróficas e a distribuição dos microorganismos na coluna de água. A entrada de água doce influencia a dinâmica e os principais reguladores das comunidades bacterianas no estuário. Os processos fotoquímicos e microbianos produzem alterações nas propriedades ópticas da CDOM e a combinação desses processos determina o resultado global e o destino da CDOM nos sistemas estuarinos com influência na produtividade nas áreas costeiras adjacente.

Hydrological modelling of Maranhão and Pracana Basins, a first approach

Modelling the hydrology of hydrographic basins has shown itself as a useful tool in environment management. The hydrological models can be used for multiple purposes: estimate runoff from sequences of rainfall, access stream water quality, quantify the diffuse pollution that reaches water masses such as estuaries, rivers and lakes, etc. This study has as final objective to simulate and analyse the flow, sediment transport and water quality as a function of landuse and soil type in the basins of Maranhão and Pracana. The modelling system used is SWAT, Soil Water Assessment Tool. In this first phase of the study the hydrodynamic calibration of the model was performed using measurements of average daily flows in five stations. The model compares well with the measurements; the annual average flows are similar and the majority of the measured flow peaks coincide with the model peaks.

Development of an integrated system for coastal waters

This paper describes some of the needs and problems associated to assessment of coastal and estuarine problems (sediment transport and eutrophication). The development of an integrated system including EO data, local measurements with special emphasis on modeling tools, is presented as a solution for studying and helping decision making on the subject. Two pilot sites for the implementation and the present development status of the integrated system are depicted. This framework was already presented in a recent AO specific for Portugal, which is still under evaluation.

Analyzing drifter designs and data gathering methods in complex estuarine environments

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

Caracterização hidráulica, hidrológica e do transporte sólido das principais linhas de água (ribeiras) do concelho de Câmara de Lobos: ilha da Madeira

Trabalho Final de Mestrado para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil na Área de Especialização de Hidráulica