995 resultados para Water waves.


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When designing deep ocean structures, it is necessary to estimate the effects of internal waves on the platform and auxiliary parts such as tension leg, riser and mooring lines. Up to now, only a few studies are concerned with the internal wave velocity fields. By using the most representative two-layer model, we have analyzed the behavior of velocity field induced by interfacial wave in the present paper. We find that there may exist velocity shear of fluid particles in the upper and lower layers so that any structures in the ocean are subjected to shear force nearby the interface. In the meantime, the magnitude of velocity for long internal wave appears spatially uniform in the respective layer although they still decay exponentially. Finally, the temporal variation for Stokes and solitary waves are shown to be of periodical and pulse type.

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Internal waves are an important factor in the design of drill operations and production in deep water, because the waves have very large amplitude and may induce large horizontal velocity. How the internal waves occur and propagate over benthal terrain is of great concern for ocean engineers. In the present paper, we have formulated a mathematical model of internal wave propagation in a two-layer deep water, which involves the effects of friction, dissipation and shoaling, and is capable of manifesting the variation of the amplitude and the velocity pattern. After calibration by field data measured at the Continental Slope in the Northern South China Sea, we have applied the model to the South China Sea, investigating the westward propagation of internal waves from the Luzon Strait, where internal waves originate due to the interaction of benthal ridge and tides. We find that the internal wave induced velocity profile is obviously characterized by the opposite flow below and above the pycnocline, which results in a strong shear, threatening safety of ocean structures, such as mooring system of oil platform, risers, etc. When internal waves propagate westwards, the amplitude attenuates due to the effects of friction and dissipation. The preliminary results show that the amplitude is likely to become half of its initial value at Luzon Strait when the internal waves propagate about 400 kilometers westwards.

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This study is concerned with some of the properties of roll waves that develop naturally from a turbulent uniform flow in a wide rectangular channel on a constant steep slope . The wave properties considered were depth at the wave crest, depth at the wave trough, wave period, and wave velocity . The primary focus was on the mean values and standard deviations of the crest depths and wave periods at a given station and how these quantities varied with distance along the channel.

The wave properties were measured in a laboratory channel in which roll waves developed naturally from a uniform flow . The Froude number F (F = un/√ghn, un = normal velocity , hn = normal depth, g =acceleration of gravity) ranged from 3. 4 to 6. 0 for channel slopes So of . 05 and . 12 respectively . In the initial phase of their development the roll waves appeared as small amplitude waves with a continuous water surface profile . These small amplitude waves subsequently developed into large amplitude shock waves. Shock waves were found to overtake and combine with other shock waves with the result that the crest depth of the combined wave was larger than the crest depths before the overtake. Once roll waves began to develop, the mean value of the crest depths hnmax increased with distance . Once the shock waves began to overtake, the mean wave period Tav increased approximately linearly with distance.

For a given Froude number and channel slope the observed quantities h-max/hn , T' (T' = So Tav √g/hn), and the standard deviations of h-max/hn and T', could be expressed as unique functions of l/hn (l = distance from beginning of channel) for the two-fold change in hn occurring in the observed flows . A given value of h-max/hn occurred at smaller values of l/hn as the Froude number was increased. For a given value of h /hh-max/hn the growth rate of δh-max/h-maxδl of the shock waves increased as the Froude number was increased.

A laboratory channel was also used to measure the wave properties of periodic permanent roll waves. For a given Froude number and channel slope the h-max/hn vs. T' relation did not agree with a theory in which the weight of the shock front was neglected. After the theory was modified to include this weight, the observed values of h-max/hn were within an average of 6.5 percent of the predicted values, and the maximum discrepancy was 13.5 percent.

For h-max/hn sufficiently large (h-max/hn > approximately 1.5) it was found that the h-max/hn vs. T' relation for natural roll waves was practically identical to the h-max/hn vs. T' relation for periodic permanent roll waves at the same Froude number and slope. As a result of this correspondence between periodic and natural roll waves, the growth rate δh-max/h-maxδl of shock waves was predicted to depend on the channel slope, and this slope dependence was observed in the experiments.

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Outlines the possibility for wave power generation at artificial islands by construction of a breakwater. Reviews the development of wave energy systems, and describes several wave generators, e.g. the Mauritius lagoon system, the Nodding Duck, the oscillating cylinder, the oscillating water column and the Lancaster Bag. Applications and costs are outlined. (C.J.U.)

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Many types of oceanic physical phenomena have a wide range in both space and time. In general, simplified models, such as shallow water model, are used to describe these oceanic motions. The shallow water equations are widely applied in various oceanic and atmospheric extents. By using the two-layer shallow water equations, the stratification effects can be considered too. In this research, the sixth-order combined compact method is investigated and numerically implemented as a high-order method to solve the two-layer shallow water equations. The second-order centered, fourth-order compact and sixth-order super compact finite difference methods are also used to spatial differencing of the equations. The first part of the present work is devoted to accuracy assessment of the sixth-order super compact finite difference method (SCFDM) and the sixth-order combined compact finite difference method (CCFDM) for spatial differencing of the linearized two-layer shallow water equations on the Arakawa's A-E and Randall's Z numerical grids. Two general discrete dispersion relations on different numerical grids, for inertia-gravity and Rossby waves, are derived. These general relations can be used for evaluation of the performance of any desired numerical scheme. For both inertia-gravity and Rossby waves, minimum error generally occurs on Z grid using either the sixth-order SCFDM or CCFDM methods. For the Randall's Z grid, the sixth-order CCFDM exhibits a substantial improvement , for the frequency of the barotropic and baroclinic modes of the linear inertia-gravity waves of the two layer shallow water model, over the sixth-order SCFDM. For the Rossby waves, the sixth-order SCFDM shows improvement, for the barotropic and baroclinic modes, over the sixth-order CCFDM method except on Arakawa's C grid. In the second part of the present work, the sixth-order CCFDM method is used to solve the one-layer and two-layer shallow water equations in their nonlinear form. In one-layer model with periodic boundaries, the performance of the methods for mass conservation is compared. The results show high accuracy of the sixth-order CCFDM method to simulate a complex flow field. Furthermore, to evaluate the performance of the method in a non-periodic domain the sixth-order CCFDM is applied to spatial differencing of vorticity-divergence-mass representation of one-layer shallow water equations to solve a wind-driven current problem with no-slip boundary conditions. The results show good agreement with published works. Finally, the performance of different schemes for spatial differencing of two-layer shallow water equations on Z grid with periodic boundaries is investigated. Results illustrate the high accuracy of combined compact method.

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The linear water wave scattering and radiation by an array of infinitely long horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid of infinite depth is investigated by use of the multipole expansion method. The diffracted and radiated potentials are expressed as a linear combination of infinite multipoles placed at the centre of each cylinder with unknown coefficients to be determined by the cylinder boundary conditions. Analytical expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, reflection and transmission coefficients and energies are derived. Comparisons are made between the present analytical results and those obtained by the boundary element method, and some examples are presented to illustrate the hydrodynamic behavior of multiple horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid. It is found that for two submerged circular cylinders the influence of the fluid density ratio on internal-mode wave forces is more appreciable than surface-mode wave forces, and the periodic oscillations of hydrodynamic results occur with the increase of the distance between two cylinders; for four submerged circular cylinders the influence of adding two cylinders on the wave forces of the former cylinders is small in low and high wave frequencies, but the influence is appreciable in intermediate wave frequencies.

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Semi-implicit algorithms are popularly used to deal with the gravitational term in numerical models. In this paper, we adopt the method of characteristics to compute the solutions for gravity waves on a sphere directly using a semi-Lagrangian advection scheme instead of the semi-implicit method in a shallow water model, to avoid expensive matrix inversions. Adoption of the semi-Lagrangian scheme renders the numerical model always stable for any Courant number, and which saves CPU time. To illustrate the efficiency of the characteristic constrained interpolation profile (CIP) method, some numerical results are shown for idealized test cases on a sphere in the Yin-Yang grid system.

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An approximate theoretical expression for the current induced by long internal solitary waves is presented when the ocean is continuously or two-layer stratified. Particular attention is paid to characterizing velocity fields in terms of magnitude, flow components, and their temporal evolution/spatial distribution. For the two-layer case, the effects of the upper/lower layer depths and the relative layer density difference upon the induced current are further studied. The results show that the horizontal components are basically uniform in each layer with a shear at the interface. In contrast, the vertical counterparts vary monotonically in the direction of the water depth in each layer while they change sign across the interface or when the wave peak passes through. In addition, though the vertical components are generally one order of magnitude smaller than the horizontal ones, they can never be neglected in predicting the heave response of floating platforms in gravitationally neutral balance. Comparisons are made between the partial theoretical results and the observational field data. Future research directions regarding the internal wave induced flow field are also indicated.

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Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is first tested by the additional experimental data, and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated. Then, the model's breaking index is replaced and tested. The new breaking index, which is optimized from the several breaking indices, is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes. Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking. Finally, the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar. Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height (normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses. It is also found that the bar slope (limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length (normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.

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The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42,134-149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313-351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313-351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971-5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

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In this paper, we present a simple spring-block model for ocean internal waves based on the self-organized criticality (SOC). The oscillations of the water blocks in the model display power-law behavior with an exponent of -2 in the frequency domain, which is similar to the current and sea water temperature spectra in the actual ocean and the universal Garrett and Munk deep ocean internal wave model [Geophysical Fluid Dynamics 2(1972) 225; J. Geophys. REs. 80 (1975) 291]. The influence of the ratio of the driving force to the spring coefficient to SOC behaviors in the model is also discussed.

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Interfacial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. A set of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities accounting for stronger nonlinearity are derived. When the small parameter measuring frequency dispersion keeping up to lower-order and full nonlinearity are considered, the equations include the Choi and Camassa's results (1999). The enhanced equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities are obtained by applying the enhancement technique introduced by Madsen et al. (1991) and Schaffer and Madsen (1995a). It is noted that the equations derived from the present study include, as special cases, those obtained by Madsen and Schaffer (1998). By comparison with the dispersion relation of the linear Stokes waves, we found that the dispersion relation is more improved than Choi and Camassa's (1999) results, and the applicable scope of water depth is deeper.

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In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.

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Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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In this paper, we present an exact solution for nonlinear shallow water on a rotating planet. It is a kind of solitary waves with always negative wave height and a celerity smaller than linear shallow water propagation speed square-root gh. In fact, it propagates with a speed equal to (1 + a/h) square-root gh(1 + a/h) where a is the negative wave height. The lowest point of the water surface is a singular point where the first order derivative has a discontinuity of the first kind. The horizontal scale of the wave has actually no connection with the water depth.