波浪和风生浪流作用下的近岸海底泥沙运移模型的推广和应用

本文利用数值计算和经验公式相结合的方法，获得了在波浪和风生流和波浪共同作用下海底泥沙输移的二维模型．在此基础上，讨论了海底泥沙输移在风速、风向和泥沙粒径不同等三种情况下的变化特征；指出了经验公式对泥沙输移规律的适用范围以及风速、风向对于近岸处泥沙输移重要性．这一研究结果对近岸结构物的选址设计具有实际应用价值．

Florida's West Coast inlets: shoreline effects and recommended action

This report responds to the 1986 Beaches Bill which, in recognition of the potential deleterious impact on Florida's beaches of inlets modified for navigation, mandated a study of those inlets with identification of recommended action to reduce the impacts. This report addresses west Coast inlets; East Coast inlets are the subject of a companion report. There are 37 inlets along that portion of Florida's West Coast commencing from Pensacola Bay Entrance to Caxambas Pass at the south end of Marco Island. Compared to those on the East Coast, most West Coast inlets have not had the deleterious effects on the adjacent beaches, yet all modified inlets without proper management have the potential of impacting unfavorably on the adjacent shorelines. Moreover, at present there is interest in opening three West Coast entrances which either have been open in the past (Midnight Pass) or which have opened occasionally (Navarre Pass and Entrance to Phillips Lake). A review of inlets in their natural condition demonstrates the presence of a shallow broad outer bar across which the longshore transport Occurs. These shallow and shifting bar features were unsuitable for navigation which in many cases has led to the deepening of the channels and fixing with one or two jetty structures. Inlets in this modified state along with inappropriate maintenance practices have the potential of placing great ero$ional stress along the adjacent beaches. Moreover. channel dredging can reduce wave sheltering of the shoreline by ebb tidal shoals and alter the equilibrium of the affected shoreline segments. The ultimate in poor sand management practice is the placement of good quality beach sand in water depths too great for the sand to reenter the longshore system under natural forces; depths of 12 ft. or less are considered appropriate for Florida in order to maintain the sand in the system. With the interference of the nearshore sediment transport processes by inlets modified for navigation, if the adjacent beaches are to be stabilized there must be an active monitoring program with commitment to placement of dredged material of beach quality on shoreline segments of documented need. Several East Coast inlets have such transfer facilities; however. the quantities of sand transferred should be increased. Although an evolution and improvement in the technical capability to manage sand resources in the vicinity of inlets is expected, an adequate capability exists today and a concerted program should be made to commence a scheduled implementation of this capability at those entrances causing greatest erosional stress on the adjacent shorelines. A brief summary review for each of the 37 West Coast inlets is presented including: a scaled aerial photograph, brief historical information, several items related to sediment losses at each inlet and special characteristics relevant to State responsibilities. For each inlet, where appropriate, the above infor~tion is utilized to develop a recommenced action. (PDF has 101 pages.)

Two-Dimensional Hillslope Scale Soil Erosion Model

On a hillslope, overland flow first generates sheet erosion and then, with increasing flux, it causes rill erosion. Sheet erosion (interrill erosion) and rill erosion are commonly observed to coexist on hillslopes. Great differences exist between both the intensities and incidences of rill and interrill erosion. In this paper, a two-dimensional rill and interrill erosion model is developed to simulate the details of the soil erosion process on hillslopes. The hillslope is treated as a combination of a two-dimensional interrill area and a one-dimensional rill. The rill process, the interrill process, and the joint occurrence of rill and interrill areas are modeled, respectively. Thus, the process of sheet flow replenishing rill flow with water and sediment can be simulated in detail, which may possibly render more truthful results for rill erosion. The model was verified with two sets of data and the results seem good. Using this model, the characteristics of soil erosion on hillslopes are investigated. Study results indicate that (1) the proposed model is capable of describing the complex process of interrill and rill erosion on hillslopes; (2) the spatial distribution of erosion is simulated on a simplified two-dimensional hillslope, which shows that the distribution of interrill erosion may contribute to rill development; and (3) the quantity of soil eroded increases rapidly with the slope gradient, then declines, and a critical slope gradient exists, which is about 15-20 degrees for the accumulated erosion amount.

Zumaiako Santiago eta Itzurun hondartzen ezaugarritze morfotopografikoa eta granulometrikoa

175 p. : il.

Identifying and interpreting stratification in sedimentary rocks on Mars : insight from Rover and orbital observations and terrestrial field analogs

Sedimentary rocks on Mars provide insight into past aqueous and atmospheric processes, climate regimes, and potential habitability. The stratigraphic architecture of sedimentary rocks on Mars is similar to that of Earth, indicating that the processes that govern deposition and erosion on Mars can be reasonably inferred through reference to analogous terrestrial systems. This dissertation aims to understand Martian surface processes through the use of (1) ground-based observations from the Mars Exploration Rovers, (2) orbital data from the High Resolution Imaging Science Experiment onboard the Mars Reconnaissance Orbiter, and (3) the use of terrestrial field analogs to understand bedforms and sediment transport on Mars. Chapters 1 and 2 trace the history of aqueous activity at Meridiani Planum, through the reconstruction of eolian bedforms at Victoria crater, and the identification of a potential mudstone facies at Santa Maria crater. Chapter 3 uses Terrestrial Laser Scanning to study cross-bedding in pyroclastic surge deposits on Earth in order to understand sediment transport in these events and to establish criteria for their identification on Mars. The final chapter analyzes stratal geometries in the Martian North Polar Layered Deposits using tools for sequence stratigraphic analysis, to better constrain past surface processes and past climate conditions on Mars.

Reconstructing Past Depositional and Diagenetic Processes through Quantitative Stratigraphic Analysis of the Martian Sedimentary Rock Record

High-resolution orbital and in situ observations acquired of the Martian surface during the past two decades provide the opportunity to study the rock record of Mars at an unprecedented level of detail. This dissertation consists of four studies whose common goal is to establish new standards for the quantitative analysis of visible and near-infrared data from the surface of Mars. Through the compilation of global image inventories, application of stratigraphic and sedimentologic statistical methods, and use of laboratory analogs, this dissertation provides insight into the history of past depositional and diagenetic processes on Mars. The first study presents a global inventory of stratified deposits observed in images from the High Resolution Image Science Experiment (HiRISE) camera on-board the Mars Reconnaissance Orbiter. This work uses the widespread coverage of high-resolution orbital images to make global-scale observations about the processes controlling sediment transport and deposition on Mars. The next chapter presents a study of bed thickness distributions in Martian sedimentary deposits, showing how statistical methods can be used to establish quantitative criteria for evaluating the depositional history of stratified deposits observed in orbital images. The third study tests the ability of spectral mixing models to obtain quantitative mineral abundances from near-infrared reflectance spectra of clay and sulfate mixtures in the laboratory for application to the analysis of orbital spectra of sedimentary deposits on Mars. The final study employs a statistical analysis of the size, shape, and distribution of nodules observed by the Mars Science Laboratory Curiosity rover team in the Sheepbed mudstone at Yellowknife Bay in Gale crater. This analysis is used to evaluate hypotheses for nodule formation and to gain insight into the diagenetic history of an ancient habitable environment on Mars.

Scour and fill in cobble-bedded streams

Scour and deposition have been measured in two small cobble-bedded upland streams, for two years. Grids of scour chains were inserted in the bed and relocated after the passage of individual hydrographs. Scour, fill and the area of the bed affected by these processes were recorded. The relationship between mean scour or fill and maximum scour or fill is assessed. In addition, the relationship between the depth of scour and the sediment transport rate as bedload is discussed briefly.

Observação do transporte de sedimentos em suspensão ao longo do Canal Norte do rio Amazonas durante condições de baixa descarga (outubro 2008)

The Amazon river, located in northernBrazil, discharges between 80,000 and 250,000 m3s-1 of water onto the adjacent shelf, creating a plume of brackish water that extends hundreds of kilometers away from the river mouth. This river also carries a large amount of fine sediments to the ocean where fluid mud has been found in the topset and upper foreset layers of the subaqueous delta formed on the mid-shelf. One of the main goals of this dissertation is to describe how turbulence and suspended sediment concentration vary along the Northern Channel of the Amazon river. Water column measurements were carried out in October 2008 at six anchor stations (P1, P3, P5, P6, P8 e P9) located seaward of the river mouth; P1 and P9 were 125 km apart. Each station was occupied during 13 hours during which current speed and direction were continuously sampled with a 600 kHz Teledyne-RDI ADCP; hourly profiles of temperature, salinity, turbidity and depth were also obtained. Water samples were collected for determination of Suspended Particulate Matter (SPM) concentration and calibration of the turbidity sensor. Current speed reached values above 1.5 m s1 in the along-channel direction (NE-SW); a remarkable ebb-flood asymmetry was observed and flows were strongly ebb-dominated. Throughout the water column, SPM concentration at stations P1 and P3 varied between 100 and 300 mg L1 in association with the presence of freshwater. In contrast, a strong salinity gradient was observed between stations P6 and P9, coinciding with the occurrence of concentrations of SPM above 10 g L-1 (fluid mud). At stations P3, P5 and P6, interface between freshwater from the Amazon river and salt water from the continental shelf, shear stresses wereestimated through four diferents methods: Reynolds, Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE), modified TKE and Quadratic Law; in the nearbed region (3 mab) the computed values varied between 0 and 3 Pa. At the three stations (P3, P5 and P6) the lowest and the highest shear stress values were obtained through, respectively, the Reynolds and the TKE methods. Over the whole water column turbulence intensity was estimated through the standard deviation of the turbulent component of the along-channel current velocity (root-mean square of u); from these values, it was estimated the turbulent dissipation of energy (G), whose values at 3 mab varied between zero and 20 s1.

Alterations of the global water cycle and their effects on river structure, function and services

River structure and functioning are governed naturally by geography and climate but are vulnerable to natural and human-related disturbances, ranging from channel engineering to pollution and biological invasions. Biological communities in river ecosystems are able to respond to disturbances faster than those in most other aquatic systems. However, some extremely strong or lasting disturbances constrain the responses of river organisms and jeopardise their extraordinary resilience. Among these, the artificial alteration of river drainage structure and the intense use of water resources by humans may irreversibly influence these systems. The increased canalisation and damming of river courses interferes with sediment transport, alters biogeochemical cycles and leads to a decrease in biodiversity, both at local and global scales. Furthermore, water abstraction can especially affect the functioning of arid and semi-arid rivers. In particular, interception and assimilation of inorganic nutrients can be detrimental under hydrologically abnormal conditions. Among other effects, abstraction and increased nutrient loading might cause a shift from heterotrophy to autotrophy, through direct effects on primary producers and indirect effects through food webs, even in low-light river systems. The simultaneous desires to conserve and to provide ecosystem services present several challenges, both in research and management.

Diversidade e padrões estruturais da vegetação halófila-psamófila das restingas do Rio de Janeiro

As restingas do Estado do Rio de Janeiro são áreas de sedimentação predominantemente quaternária, descontínuas geograficamente, formadas em função das mudanças paleoclimáticas, flutuações do nível do mar e transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. A diversidade e a estrutura da vegetação halófila-psamófila presente nestas restingas são os principais focos deste estudo, onde foram analisadas a similaridade florística, as formas de vida e síndrome de dispersão, o padrão de riqueza e diversidade, a distribuição das espécies e os parâmetros de cobertura vegetal, serrapilheira, solo desnudo e salinidade da água do mar. Foram amostradas nove áreas de restinga, a saber, Praia do Sul, Marambaia, Grumari, Marapendi, Maricá, Massambaba, Barra de São João, Jurubatiba e São João da Barra. Foram encontradas 90 espécies, distribuídas em 33 famílias, 69 gêneros, sendo as famílias de maior riqueza específica: Asteraceae (10), Poaceae (9 espécies), Fabaceae (9) e Rubiaceae (6). Foi registrada uma baixa riqueza de espécies nas áreas avaliadas, variando de 25 a 48. Somente 11 espécies ocorreram em todas as áreas (Alternanthera maritima, Blutaparon portulacoides, Canavalia rosea, Cereus fernambucensis, Euphorbia hyssopifolia, Ipomoea imperati, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Panicum racemosum, Remirea maritima, Sporobolus virginicus, Stenotaphrum secundatum), e 12 são dominantes, em uma ou mais áreas (Allagoptera arenaria, Alternanthera maritima, Blutaparon portulacoides, Canavalia rosea, Ipomoea imperati, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Mollugo verticillata, Panicum racemosum, Remirea maritima, Spermacoce capitata, Sporobolus virginicus, Stenotaphrum secundatum), existindo um grande número de espécies raras. O índice de diversidade de Shannon variou de 1,49 a 2,40, e a equabilidade de Pielou de 0,82 a 0,60. O agrupamento formou dois grandes grupos, sendo o primeiro constituído por Barra de São João, Praia do Sul, Marambaia, Grumari e Marapendi, e o segundo por Jurubatiba, São João da Barra, Maricá e Massambaba. As áreas mais similares floristicamente foram Maricá e Massambaba (58%), Grumari e Marapendi (56%), e Barra de São João e Praia do Sul (50%). A vegetação apresenta uma flora característica, com diferença na composição entre as áreas, e similaridade entre áreas geograficamente mais próximas. Um terço das espécies identificadas são caméfitos (34,56%), seguida por fanerófitos (20,98%), geófitos (16,04%), hemicriptófitos (12,34%), terófitos (13,58%) e duas lianas. Na dispersão predomina a autocoria (41,97%), anemocoria (33,33%) e zoocoria (24,69%). O tamanho das áreas perpendicularmente ao mar não está relacionado com aumento da riqueza, nem apresenta o padrão de aumento com o distanciamento do mar. Existem diferenças da riqueza e da diversidade entre as áreas, não havendo uma homogeneidade ao longo do litoral. Há uma zonação, com espécies distribuídas próximas ao mar (Allagoptera arenaria, Alternanthera maritima, Blutaparon portulacoides, Canavalia rosea, Cassytha filiformis, Cereus fernambucensis, Hydrocotyle bonariensis, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Schinus terebinthifolia, Sophora tomentosa, Stenotaphrum secundatum, Cyrtocymura scorpioides), e ao longo do gradiente perpendicular ao mar (Chamaecrista flexuosa, Euphorbia hyssopifolia, Ipomoea imperati, Mollugo verticillata, Panicum racemosum, Paspalum maritimum, Remirea maritima, Sporobolus virginicus). O modelo de série logarítmica é o que melhor representa a vegetação, independente da diversidade ou riqueza. A cobertura vegetal variou entre as áreas. A serrapilheira e o solo desnudo estão estreitamente relacionados com a cobertura vegetal, havendo variação entre as áreas.

Identificação de areias siliciclásticas para a recuperação de praias em erosão através de métodos geofísicos acústicos

Devido a sua grande extensão latitudinal, a costa brasileira é influenciada por diferentes regimes climáticos e oceanográficos. Adicionalmente, a distribuição da população brasileira é caracterizada por uma alta concentração nas capitais litorâneas. Todos esses fatores levam à construção de inúmeras estruturas de engenharia que podem de alguma forma impactar o transporte de sedimento e consequentemente o balanço sedimentar de algumas praias. Uma das formas mais eficientes de recuperar esse balanço sedimentar é a alimentação artificial de praias, com sedimentos provenientes da plataforma continental com características semelhantes. Os métodos geofísicos acústicos permitem mapear de forma eficiente o fundo e o subfundo marinho para a busca de áreas fontes para a lavra de forma eficiente. O objetivo deste estudo é a identificação de padrões geoacústicos a partir de analises quantitativas e qualitativas, para a caracterização de áreas fontes de areias siliciclásticas compatíveis com sedimentos de praias em erosão na cidade do Rio de Janeiro. O mapeamento foi realizado na plataforma continental interna do Rio de Janeiro, em área adjacente à praia de Itaipuaçu (Maricá, RJ). As análises evidenciaram depósitos, localizados entre 19 e 30 metros, de areias com granulometria, textura e selecionamento em condições ideias para a recomposição de praias do Rio de Janeiro.

Geomorphological Evolution of Estuaries: The Dynamic Basis for Morpho-Sedimentary Units in Selected Estuaries in the Northeastern United States

The coastal geomorphological processes of alongshore transport and tidal currents are interacting with the attendant influences of sea-level rise and sediment supply to generate morphosedimentary units in selected estuarine systems. Constrained by the conditions promoted by microtidal situations in barrier island settings, vectors of sediment transport have established spatial sequences of morphologies and sediment types that are components of shellfish habitats. Greater depth and decreasing grain-size toward the mainland are common characteristics in five northeastern U.S. estuarine systems. The patterns are repeated at various scales among the lagoon-type estuaries as well as within the estuarine settings to establish geospatial associations of geomorphology and habitat.

Aplicação de múltiplas ferramentas no estudo do transporte de sedimentos na margem interna da restinga da Marambaia (baía de Sepetiba, RJ)

Dados sedimentológicos e hidrodinâmicos foram utilizados para estudar a dinâmica sedimentar da margem interna da restinga da Marambaia (baía de Sepetiba, Rio de Janeiro, SE Brasil). Foram realizadas três campanhas amostrais para coleta de sedimentos ao longo da restinga da Marambaia e na área submersa adjacente. Adicionalmente, em dezembro de 2013, três fundeios simultâneos para aquisição de dados hidrodinâmicos foram conduzidos paralelamente à restinga, ao longo da profundidade média de 6,5 metros. As medições abrangeram dois ciclos de maré (25 horas), incluindo perfilagem com CTDs, perfilagem correntométrica e coleta de amostras de água para determinação das concentrações do material particulado em suspensão. A partir do processamento das amostras de sedimentos em laboratório, foram obtidos os parâmetros estatísticos (média, desvio-padrão e assimetria) para o detalhamento da caracterização sedimentológica da área de estudo, bem como a aplicação de um modelo de tendência direcional de transporte de sedimentos (GisedTrend). A restinga apresenta areias médias e bem selecionadas, enquanto as amostras coletadas na porção submersa, em profundidades maiores que 2 m, passam de areias finas e bem selecionadas a siltes finos e mal selecionados em maiores profundidades. Quatro casos de tendência de transporte foram explorados em um total de 14 possibilidades e os mais significativos foram analisados com o intuito de identificar áreas de acumulação e remoção de sedimentos, podendo estar associados aos processos responsáveis pelo transporte de sedimentos, tais como correntes geradas pelos ventos locais, marés e dispersão de plumas de sedimentos em suspensão. Os dados hidrodinâmicos, durante o período amostrado, permitiram observar o complexo padrão de circulação existente, especialmente na área adjacente à área central da restinga. Dentre as observações realizadas, verificou-se a ocorrência de assimetria da maré, fato já documentado em trabalhos anteriores conduzidos próximo ao principal canal de acesso à baia, com períodos de enchente mais curtos e períodos de vazante mais longos. Diferentemente do que foi reportado nestes trabalhos, os períodos de vazante foram associados às correntes de maior intensidade. As concentrações de material particulado em suspensão situaram-se, em média, entre 10 e 20 mg/L tanto em superfície como próximo ao fundo; no entanto, suas variações temporais não apresentaram qualquer relação com as fases da maré. Possíveis áreas de convergência e divergência da circulação / células de transporte de sedimentos foram identificadas e comparadas aos vetores de tendência de transporte obtidos através do modelo GisedTrend, com resultados satisfatórios.

延河流域径流和输沙周期变化特征的小波分析

用延河流域甘谷驿站1953—2000年实测月径流深和输沙模数数据和1957—2000年月均面降雨数据,采用小波多尺度方法,分析延河流域主要水文要素的周期及其变化特征。结果表明:延河流域降雨、径流和输沙存在着显著的周期,且其大小非常接近,为3.0、6.5、13.0和23.0 a。降雨、径流和输沙主周期分别是3.0、23.0和23.0 a。延河流域20世纪70年代后降雨量年际分配趋于均匀。3 a对应的小尺度上,70—80年代初3个水文序列对应曲线出现紊乱现象,与该时期大规模水利水土保持措施的修建有关。80年代后,由于水利水土保持措施减水减沙效益的削弱,3条曲线重新趋于一致。13 a对应的中尺度和23 a对应的大尺度上,均出现径流和输沙曲线不同步,或者滞后于降雨曲线现象。降水是径流和输沙周期性变化的主要外动力因子,人类活动导致的流域下垫面变化则是不可忽视的另一重要原因。

波浪作用下悬移质泥沙运动的两相流数值模型

该文采用基于水沙两相紊流的数值模型对波浪作用下的悬移质泥沙运动进行研究. 基本方程中将水相和颗粒相通过相间作用力进行耦合, 合理地考虑了相间相对运动的影响. 数值计算方法为有限体积法, 对流项处理利用了三阶精度的QUICK格式, 离散方程组求解采用的是TDMA迭代方法. 计算得到的悬移质泥沙垂线时均计算值与不同尺度的水槽实验数据吻合很好, 表明数学模型及其计算方法对于低浓度水沙两相问题是合理的. 该研究还探讨了悬沙浓度、泥沙沉降速度以及各种相间作用力随时间的分布规律