Critical connections : Islamic politics and political economy in Indonesia and Malaysia

This article explores Islamic politics in two Muslim-majority countries in Southeast Asia, Indonesia and Malaysia, by linking their trajectories, from late colonial emergence to recent upsurge, to broad concerns of political economy, including changing social bases, capitalist transformation, state policies, and economic crises. The Indonesian and Malaysian trajectories of Islamic politics are tracked in a comparative exercise that goes beyond the case studies to suggest that much of contemporary Islamic politics cannot be explained by reference to Islam alone, but to how Islamic identities and agendas are forged in contexts of modern and profane social contestation.

The Islamic Crossed-Arch Domes in Cordoba: Geometry and Structural Analysis of the “Capilla de Villaviciosa”

Crossed-arch domes are a singular type of ribbed vaults. Their characteristic feature is that the ribs that form the vault are intertwined, forming polygons or stars, leaving an empty space in the centre. The earliest known vaults of this type are found in the Great Mosque of Córdoba, built ca. 960 a.C. The type spread through Spain, and the north of Africa in the 10th to the 16th Centuries, and was used by Guarini and Vittone in the 17th and 18th Centuries in Italy. However, it was used only in a few buildings. Though the literature about the structural behaviour of ribbed Gothic vaults is extensive, so far no structural analysis of crossed arch domes has been made. The purpose of this work is, first to show the way to attack such an analysis within the frame of Modern Limit Analysis of Masonry Structures (Heyman 1995), and then to apply the approach to study the stability of the dome of the Capilla de Villaviciosa. The work may give some clues to art and architectural historians to understand better the origin and development of Islamic dome architecture.

Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

Fashion in Actions on Social Media – Spanish SME Fashion Brands Case Studies

Fashion is one of the most vibrant sectors in Europe and important contributors to the European Union (EU) economy. In particular, Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) play a major part in European fashion industry (EU 2012). Just like fashion, where people¿s style has inherently meant to be shared as it is foremost a representation of one¿s self-image, social media allow the reflection of ones' personality and emotions. Although fashion practitioners have embraced social media in their marketing activities, it is still relatively few known at an academic level about the specificities of fashion industry when approaching social media marketing (SMM) strategies. This study sets out to explore fashion companies' SMM strategy and its activities. From an exploratory approach, we present case studies of two Spanish SME fashion companies, anonymously named hereafter as Company A and Company B, to deepen our understanding on how fashion brands implement their SMM strategy. Company A offers high-end fashion products while Company B produces medium fashion products. We analyzed the case studies using qualitative (interviews to companies' executives) and a mix of qualitative and quantitative (content analysis of companies' social media platform) methods. Public posts data of both companies' Facebook brand pages were used to perform the content analysis. Our findings through case studies of the two companies reveal that branding-oriented strategic objectives are the main drivers of their SMM implementations. There are significant differences between both companies. The main strategic action employed by Company A is engaging customers to participate into brand's offline social gathering events by inviting them through social media platform, while Company B focuses its effort on posting product promotion related contents and engaging influencers such as fashion bloggers. Our results are expected to serve as a basis of further investigations on how SMM strategy and strategic actions implemented by fashion brands may influence marketing outcomes.

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

KARP-1 is induced by DNA damage in a p53- and ataxia telangiectasia mutated-dependent fashion

The KARP-1 (Ku86 Autoantigen Related Protein-1) gene, which is expressed from the human Ku86 autoantigen locus, appears to play a role in mammalian DNA double-strand break repair as a regulator of the DNA-dependent protein kinase complex. Here we demonstrate that KARP-1 gene expression is significantly up-regulated following exposure of cells to DNA damage. KARP-1 mRNA induction was completely dependent on the ataxia telangiectasia and p53 gene products, consistent with the presence of a p53 binding site within the second intron of the KARP-1 locus. These observations link ataxia telangiectasia, p53, and KARP-1 in a common pathway.

Host factor I, Hfq, binds to Escherichia coli ompA mRNA in a growth rate-dependent fashion and regulates its stability

The stability of the ompA mRNA depends on the bacterial growth rate. The 5′ untranslated region is the stability determinant of this transcript and the target of the endoribonuclease, RNase E, the key player of mRNA degradation. An RNA-binding protein with affinity for the 5′ untranslated region ompA was purified and identified as Hfq, a host factor initially recognized for its function in phage Qβ replication. The ompA RNA-binding activity parallels the amount of Hfq, which is elevated in bacteria cultured at slow growth rate, a condition leading to facilitated degradation of the ompA mRNA. In hfq mutant cells with a deficient Hfq gene product, the RNA-binding activity is missing, and analysis of the ompA mRNA showed that the growth-rate dependence of degradation is lost. Furthermore, the half-life of the ompA mRNA is prolonged in the mutant cells, irrespective of growth rate. Hfq has no affinity for the lpp transcript whose degradation, like that of bulk mRNA, is not affected by bacterial growth rate. Compatible with our results, we found that the intracellular concentration of RNase E and its associated degradosome components is independent of bacterial growth rate. Thus our results suggest a regulatory role for Hfq that specifically facilitates the ompA mRNA degradation in a growth rate-dependent manner.

Protective anti-tumor immunity induced by vaccination with recombinant adenoviruses encoding multiple tumor-associated cytotoxic T lymphocyte epitopes in a string-of-beads fashion

Vaccines harboring genes that encode functional oncoproteins are intrinsically hazardous, as their application may lead to introduction of these genes into normal cells and thereby to tumorigenesis. On the other hand, oncoproteins are especially attractive targets for immunotherapy of cancer, as their expression is generally required for tumor growth, making the arisal of tumor variants lacking these antigens unlikely. Using murine tumor models, we investigated the efficacy of polyepitope recombinant adenovirus (rAd) vaccines, which encode only the immunogenic T cell epitopes derived from several oncogenes, for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity. We chose to employ rAd, as these are safe vectors that do not induce the side effects associated with, for example, vaccinia virus vaccines. A single polyepitope rAd was shown to give rise to presentation of both H-2 and human leukocyte antigen-restricted cytotoxic T lymphocyte (CTL) epitopes. Moreover, vaccination with a rAd encoding H-2-restricted CTL epitopes, derived from human adenovirus type 5 early region 1 and human papilloma virus type 16-induced tumors, elicited strong tumor-reactive CTL and protected the vaccinated animals against an otherwise lethal challenge with either of these tumors. The protection induced was superior compared with that obtained by vaccination with irradiated tumor cells. Thus, vaccination with polyepitope rAd is a powerful approach for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity that allows simultaneous immunization against multiple tumor-associated T cell epitopes, restricted by various major histocompatibility complex haplotypes.