The Aran jumper: Crafting a Transatlantic Heritage

The garment we now recognise as the Aran jumper emerged as an international symbol of Ireland from the twin twentieth century transatlantic flows of migration and tourism. Its power as a heritage object derives from: 1) the myth commonly associated with the object, in which the corpse of a drowned fisherman is identified and claimed by his family due to the stitch patterns of his jumper (Pádraig Ó Síochain 1962; Annette Lynch and Mitchell Strauss 2014); 2) the meanings attached to those stitch patterns, which have been read, for example, as genealogical records, representations of the natural landscape and references to Christian and pre-Christian ‘Celtic’ religion (Heinz Kiewe 1967; Catherine Nash 1996); and 3) booming popular interest in textile heritage on both sides of the Atlantic, fed by the reframing of domestic crafts such as knitting as privileged leisure pursuits (Rachel Maines 2009; Jo Turney 2009). The myth of the drowned fisherman plays into transatlantic migration narratives of loss and reclamation, promising a shared heritage that needs only to be decoded. The idea of the garment’s surface acting as text (or map) situates it within a preliterate idyll of romantic primitivism, while obscuring the circumstances of its manufacture. The contemporary resurgence in home textile production as recreation, mediated through transnational online networks, creates new markets for heritage textile products while attracting critical attention to the processes through which such objects, and mythologies, are produced. The Aran jumper’s associations with kinship, domesticity and national character make it a powerful tool in the promotion of ancestral (or genealogical) tourism, through marketing efforts such as The Gathering 2013. Nash’s (2010; 2014) work demonstrates the potential for such touristic encounters to disrupt and enrich public conceptions of heritage, belonging and relatedness. While the Aran jumper has been used to commodify a simplistic sense of mutuality between Ireland and north America, it carries complex transatlantic messages in both directions.

Development and testing of an intermediate temperature glass sealant for use in mixed ionic and electronic conducting membrane reactors

High temperature ceramic membranes have interesting possibilities for application in areas of new and developing technologies such as hydrocarbon combustion with carbon dioxide capture and electrochemical promotion of catalysis (EPOC). However, membrane module sealing remains a significant technical challenge. In this work a borosilicate glass sealant (50SiO₂·25B₂O₃·25Na₂O, mol%) was developed to fit the requirements of sealing an air separation membrane system at intermediate temperatures (300-600 °C). The seal was assessed by testing the leak rates under a range of conditions. The parameters tested included the effect of flowrate on the leak rate, the heating and cooling rates of the reactor and the range of temperatures under which the system could operate. Tests for durability and reliability were also performed. It was found that the most favourable reactor configuration employed a reactor with the ceramic pellet placed underneath the inner chamber alumina tube (inverted configuration), using a quartz wool support to keep the membrane in place prior to sealing. Using this configuration the new glass-based seal was found to be a more suitable sealant than traditional alternatives; it produced lower leak rates at all desirable flowrates, with the potential for rapid heating and cooling and multiple cycling, allowing for prolonged usage. © 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Whole genome protein microarrays for serum profiling of immunodominant antigens of Bacillus anthracis

A commercial Bacillus anthracis (Anthrax) whole genome protein microarray has been used to identify immunogenic Anthrax proteins (IAP) using sera from groups of donors with (a) confirmed B. anthracis naturally acquired cutaneous infection, (b) confirmed B. anthracis intravenous drug use-acquired infection, (c) occupational exposure in a wool-sorters factory, (d) humans and rabbits vaccinated with the UK Anthrax protein vaccine and compared to naïve unexposed controls. Anti-IAP responses were observed for both IgG and IgA in the challenged groups; however the anti-IAP IgG response was more evident in the vaccinated group and the anti-IAP IgA response more evident in the B. anthracis-infected groups. Infected individuals appeared somewhat suppressed for their general IgG response, compared with other challenged groups. Immunogenic protein antigens were identified in all groups, some of which were shared between groups whilst others were specific for individual groups. The toxin proteins were immunodominant in all vaccinated, infected or other challenged groups. However, a number of other chromosomally-located and plasmid encoded open reading frame proteins were also recognized by infected or exposed groups in comparison to controls. Some of these antigens e.g., BA4182 are not recognized by vaccinated individuals, suggesting that there are proteins more specifically expressed by live Anthrax spores in vivo that are not currently found in the UK licensed Anthrax Vaccine (AVP). These may perhaps be preferentially expressed during infection and represent expression of alternative pathways in the B. anthracis "infectome." These may make highly attractive candidates for diagnostic and vaccine biomarker development as they may be more specifically associated with the infectious phase of the pathogen. A number of B. anthracis small hypothetical protein targets have been synthesized, tested in mouse immunogenicity studies and validated in parallel using human sera from the same study.

Sustained intraocular VEGF neutralization results in retinal neurodegeneration in the Ins2Akita diabetic mouse

Current therapies that target vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) have become a mainstream therapy for the management of diabetic macular oedema. The treatment involves monthly repeated intravitreal injections of VEGF inhibitors. VEGF is an important growth factor for many retinal cells, including different types of neurons. In this study, we investigated the adverse effect of multiple intravitreal anti-VEGF injections (200 ng/μl/eye anti-mouse VEGF164, once every 2 weeks totalling 5-6 injections) to retinal neurons in Ins2(Akita) diabetic mice. Funduscopic examination revealed the development of cotton wool spot-like lesions in anti-VEGF treated Ins2(Akita) mice after 5 injections. Histological investigation showed focal swellings of retinal nerve fibres with neurofilament disruption. Furthermore, anti-VEGF-treated Ins2(Akita) mice exhibited impaired electroretinographic responses, characterized by reduced scotopic a- and b-wave and oscillatory potentials. Immunofluorescent staining revealed impairment of photoreceptors, disruptions of synaptic structures and loss of amacrine and retinal ganglion cells in anti-VEGF treated Ins2(Akita) mice. Anti-VEGF-treated WT mice also presented mild amacrine and ganglion cell death, but no overt abnormalities in photoreceptors and synaptic structures. At the vascular level, exacerbated albumin leakage was observed in anti-VEGF injected diabetic mice. Our results suggest that sustained intraocular VEGF neutralization induces retinal neurodegeneration and vascular damage in the diabetic eye.

A contabilidade financeira e analítica no Grupo Somelos

Relatório de Estágio apresentado ao Instituto de Contabilidade e Administração do Porto para a obtenção do grau de Mestre em Contabilidade e Finanças, sob orientação do Doutor Adalmiro Álvaro Malheiro de Castro Andrade Pereira

Otimização energética à secção das malhas

A presente dissertação realizada na empresa Continental-Indústria Têxtil do Ave, S.A., teve como objetivo a otimização energética da secção das malhas. Esta secção divide-se em duas áreas, a tricotagem e a ramulagem. Os artigos produzidos diferem no seu peso específico, composição e condições de operação, sendo os artigos A, B e C compostos por poliéster e termofixados a 190ºC e os artigos D e E compostos por poliéster e algodão, com uma temperatura de operação de 205ºC. Numa primeira etapa estudou-se o funcionamento da máquina de termofixação – a râmula – que opera em trabalho contínuo a 40 m/min. Esta máquina tem incorporado um permutador de calor, que aquece o ar fresco de entrada com os gases de exaustão das estufas. Posteriormente efetuou-se o levantamento energético de cada artigo, para as áreas de tricotagem e ramulagem. Verificou-se que os artigos D e E, pela sua constituição, são os que apresentam um consumo específico superior, em tep/ton. Entre as várias utilidades consumidas (gás natural, eletricidade e ar comprimido) o gás natural representa mais de 50% do consumo de energia total necessário para a produção de cada artigo. Após a completa análise aos consumos energéticos da râmula, foram realizados ensaios de otimização, tendo-se concluído que a diminuição do caudal de exaustão pode atingir valores de poupança anual de gás natural na ordem dos 3.000 €. Com o objetivo de avaliar o consumo de gás natural, não sendo possível a realização experimental, foram feitas simulações com base em alterações na corrente de entrada de ar fresco no permutador. Foi também estudada a possibilidade de isolamento e revestimento térmico da conduta exterior, projetada para o reaproveitamento do ar dos compressores, tendo-se obtido um orçamento de 2.500 €. Admitindo-se uma gama de temperaturas entre os 40ºC e os 60ºC, com um caudal de insuflação de 30%, obteve-se um payback entre os 0,97 e os 3,28 anos. Numa segunda fase admitiu-se uma temperatura média de 50ºC, aumentando o caudal de insuflação até 100%. O período de retorno obtido variou entre os 0,33 e os 1,38 anos, podendo as poupanças anuais atingirem os 7.600 €.

Brock Scarf

This Brock scarf is made of a navy and scarlet wool blend.

Studies of some cocondensations of nickel atoms with unsaturated organic ligands and with mixed ligand systems

The cocondensation of nickel with a number of unsaturated ligands was studied, as was the cocondensation with a number of mixed ligand systems. Enamines were found not to react with nickel while acrylonitrile was polymerized. In the mixed ligand syst.ems different products were obtained than when the ligands were cocondensed individually. Cocondensations of benzyl halide/allyl halide mixtures gave unstable products that were not observed when the halides were cocondensed individually. The effect of Kao-Wool insulation on nickel/benzyl halide cocondensations was found to be significant. Kao-Wool caused the bulk of the benzyl halide to be polymeri zed to a number of poly-benzylic species. An alkali metal reactor was designed for the evaporation of sodium and potassium atoms into cold solutions of metal halide and an or ganic substrate. This apparatus was used to synthesize Ni(P¢3 )3' but proved unsuccessful for synthesizing a nickel-enamine compound.

Rittermere Farm Craft Studio Fonds, 1951-2006

During the 1950’s, the Rittenhouse family of Vineland in the Niagara Peninsula opened a craft store and studio. Within a short period of time, they realized that resources for the craft of rug hooking were in demand and they began to build their business around this niche. Edna Rittenhouse, the mother, was the wool dyer; Margaret Rowan, the daughter, was the pattern designer; Ted Rowan, the son-in-law, changed careers and became the manager of the family business. The 1960’s were a prosperous time, not only in the Niagara Peninsula, but also for the Rittenhouse business. Edna Rittenhouse had been hooking rugs for decades but she and her family worked at developing and sharing newer techniques with newer materials. Shading manuals were authored and published; students became teachers; creativity abounded in the demand for and the creation of new designs. Instead of using woolen yarn, they were using pure woolen fabric; instead of using a standard cutter, they began using a uniquely designed cutter; instead of using frames, they employed a table top method. The new material and technique resulted in a rug with a smooth, uniform texture and a soft nap. Since many crafters belonged to crafters guilds, Margaret and Ted Rowan began promoting the idea of a guild for rug hookers and in time the Ontario Hooking Craft Guild was also a reality. A joint project between Chatelaine magazine and the Rittermere studio for Canada’s centennial year of 1967 was extremely well received within the circle of hooking crafters and the Rittermere Farm Craft Studio became a North American landmark for crafters. From this point onward the studio had a large customer base not only in North America but also overseas. The studio remained popular until 1984 when Margaret and Ted Rowan decided to retire. The Rittermere name has been preserved in the name of Rittermere-Hurst-Field which is a similar business located in Aurora which is just north of Toronto.

F. R. Lalor and Wm. Jaques Papers, 1910

F.R. [Francis Ramsey] Lalor (1856-1929) was born in St. Catharines, Ont. but lived most of his life in Dunnville, Haldimand County, Ont. He was a merchant and manufacturer. In 1903 he and a few partners founded the Monarch Knitting Co. Lalor was also an exporter of hardwood ashes used for agricultural purposes as fertilizer. Lalor was active in politics, he was a Conservative and the member of parliament for Haldimand, having been elected in the 1904, 1908, 1911 and 1917 elections. William Jaques lived in Simcoe, Norfolk County, Ontario. He was a junk dealer by profession.

Thorold Industry - Postcards

Board of six postcards of Thorold. First postcard, Unloading pulpwood at Ontario Paper Mill on Welland Canal, Thorold, Ontario. Second postcard, Ontario Paper Mill, Thorold, Ont. Third postcard, Birdseye view showing Stone Road, Near Ontario Paper Mill, Thorold, Ontario. Fourth postcard, View on Old Welland Canal, Showing Power House, Thorold Ontario. Fifth postcard, Beaver Board Plant, Thorold Ontario. Sixth postcard, On the Old Welland Canal and Penman's Knitting Mill, Thorold, Ont., Canada.

Letter to R.F. Nelles from Mr. Ball

Letter to R.F. Nelles regarding wool. Mr. Nelles is advised to be sure the wool is well-washed and dry. This is from Mr. Ball of Hamilton, Ont., May 23, 1857.

Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.