Correlating the fineness and residual gum content of degummed hemp fibres

It is well known residual gum exists in degummed or retted hemp fibres. Gum removal results in improvement in fibre fineness and the properties of the resultant hemp yarns. However, it is not known what correlation if any exists between the residual gum content in retted hemp fibres and the fibre fineness, described in terms of fibre width in this paper. This study examined the mean width and coefficient of variation (CV) of fibre width of seventeen chemically retted hemp samples with reference to residual gum content. The mean and CV of fibre width were obtained from an Optical fibre diameter analyser (OFDA 100). The linear regression analysis results show that the mean fibre width is directly proportional to the residual gum content. A slightly weaker linear correlation also exists between the coefficient of variation of fibre width and the residual gum content. The strong linear co-relation between the mean of fibre width and the residual gum content is a significant outcome, since testing for fibre width using the OFDA is a much simpler and quicker process than testing the residual gum content. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) reinforces the OFDA findings. SEM micrographs show a flat ribbon like fibre cross-section hence the term “fibre width” is used instead of fibre diameter. Spectral differences in the untreated dry decorticated skin samples and chemically treated and subsequently carded samples indicate delignification. The peaks at 1370 cm⁻¹, 1325 cm⁻¹, 1733 cm⁻¹, and 1600 cm⁻¹ attributed to lignin in the untreated samples are missing from the spectra of the treated samples. The spectra of the treated samples are more amine-dominated with some of the OH character lost.

Tip top result goes stale: ACCC-v- Australian Safeway Stores Pty Ltd(No 2)

Bread, its constituents, its methods of manufacture and its price and availability to consumers can claim to be the leitmotiv of competition law, both ancient and modern. The inelasticity of demand for such a staple food explains laws against monopolies being included in the eighteenth century BC Code of Hammurabi, why corn laws exercised the minds of the Gracchi brothers in second century B.C. Rome, and why ineffective regulation of the price of bread was seen as an important precipitator of revolutions in Europe in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In the common law the early restraint of trade case, Mitchell v Reynolds saw a parish wide five year non-competition clause in a contract for the sale of a bakery upheld as reasonable. In the post-Shennan Anti-Trust Act (1890) United States, attempts by manufacturers of macaroni to change its constituents because of the prevailing high price of durm wheat were held in National Macaroni Manufacturers Association v FCT) to constitute price-fixing, an offence illegal per se under American anti-trust law.

Reducing yarn hairiness with a modified yarn path in worsted ring spinning

The spinning geometry of a ring frame plays an important role, and the twist triangle is the critical region in ring spinning. Changes in the spinning geometry may affect yarn properties. This paper examines the idea of ring spinning with a "diagonal" yarn path, and the effect of such a path on yam properties, particularly hairiness. Both "left diagonal" and "right diagonal" yam arrangements are tried on a 24-spindle Cognetex FLC worsted ring frame. The hairiness results obtained from the Zweigle hairiness meter show that the right diagonal yam path produces yams of lower hairiness than the conventional ring spun yarn in almost all the hair length groups. Yam evenness and tenacity are not as sensitive to the change in yarn path. The mean spindle speed at break is also tested, and there is some deterioration in spinning efficiency with the right diagonal yarn path, particularly at higher spinning speeds. Results from this study may help explain variations in yarns spun on poorly aligned ring frames.

The behavioural and demographic contexts of white bread consumption

The aim of this study was to examine the demographic, health habits and personal values associations of white bread use. A total of 474 randomly selected consumers completed a questionnaire about bread consumption, health habits and personal values. The findings showed that compared with non-consumers white bread users were younger, less educated, more likely to have children and to be smokers. They were less likely to follow vegetarian, low fat or special diets or use alternative therapies. Non-consumers were more likely to hold pro-nature universalistic values. This suggests that the use of this staple food is associated with demographic, behavioural and ideological domains. Their causal inter-relationships require further investigation.

An experimental investigation of yarn tension in simulated ring spinning

Yarn tension is a key factor that affects the efficiency of a ring spinning system. In this paper, a specially constructed rig, which can rotate a yarn at a high speed without inserting any real twist into the yarn, was used to simulate a ring spinning process. Yarn tension was measured at the guide-eye during the simulated spinning of different yarns at various balloon heights and with varying yarn length in the balloon. The effect of balloon shape, yarn hairiness and thickness, and yarn rotating speed, on the measured yarn tension, was examined. The results indicate that the collapse of balloon shape from single loop to double loop, or from double loop to triple etc, lead to sudden reduction in yarn tension. Under otherwise identical conditions, a longer length of yarn in the balloon gives a lower yarn tension at the guide-eye. In addition, thicker yarns and/or more hairy yarns generate a higher tension in the yarn, due to the increased air drag acting on the thicker or more hairy yarns.

It's not only rock and roll: rockumentary, direct cinema and performative display

The documentary form commonly referred to as rockumentary has become, since its inception in the early 1960s, a staple of American direct cinema. In keeping with its associations with observational direct cinema, rockumentary emphasizes showing over telling; that is, rockumentary privileges the visual capacities of documentary over patterns of exposition. While the ‘documentary display’ of rockumentary is comparable to certain features of  the early ‘cinema of attractions’ it exceeds such features in its focus on  performance. Typically, an emphasis within documentary theory on unmediated and unreconstructed access to the real as the basis of documentary film has not admitted a place for notions of performance before the camera. Rockumentary, with its relentless foregrounding of the performing body and the performance of musicians, revises this  understanding. This essay examines rockumentary within the context of direct cinema as a mode centred on a documentary performative display as it operates within selected works from the 1960s to the present. The film theorist Brian Winston has claimed that ‘[d]irect cinema made the rock performance/tour movie into the most popular and commercially viable documentary form thus far.’ The inverse of this assessment may be closer to the mark: the rockumentary turned direct cinema into a commercially and widely available form, one which the rockumentary has at times returned to and superseded in its scopic attention to performative display.

Cultivating mangement? Managing culture?

Jean Battersby, the founding executive officer of the Australia Council of the Arts from 1968, delivered a lecture in May 2005 which bemoaned a situation in which the focus and funding of the arts appears to have more to do with managers than with artists. Cultural policy and cultural economics have become the staple of the day, so much so that the thought of an economist actually proposing an Arts Council protected from political manipulation and scrutiny—‘with antennae sensitive to public opinion or political advantage’ and ever ready to apply the ‘child of three’ test (Battersby, 2005: 2)—seems an absurdity. Yet, in July 1945, Maynard Keynes proposed that Britain have an Arts Council without government and its bureaucracy intervening in the relationship between artists and their public. The task, as Battersby records it, ‘is not to teach or to censor, but to give courage, confidence and opportunity’ without prescription (2005: 6).

Mill specific prediction of worsted yarn performance

Different spinning mills use different raw materials, processing methodologies, and equipment, all of which influence the quality of the yarns produced. Because of many variables, there is a difficulty in developing a universal empirical/theoretical model. This work presents a multilayer perceptron algorithm (MLP) model for the purpose of building a mill specific worsted spinning performance prediction tool. Sixteen inputs are used to predict key yarn properties and spinning performance, including number of fibers in cross-section, unevenness (U%), thin places, neps, yarn tenacity, elongation at break, thick places, and spinning ends-down. Validation of the model on mill specific commercial data set shows that the general fit to the target values is good. Importantly, the performance of the MLP shows a certain degree of stability to different, random selections of independent test data. Subsequent comparison against the predicted outputs of Sirolan Yarnspec™ confirms the overall performance of the artificial neural network (ANN) method to be more accuratefor mill specific predictions.

The effect of yarn hairiness on air drag in ring spinning

Air drag on yarn and package surfaces affects yarn tension, which in turn affects energy consumption and ends-down in ring spinning. This study investigated the effects of yarn hairiness on air drag in ring spinning. Theoretical models of skin friction coefficient on the surface of rotating yarn packages were developed. The predicted results were verified with experimental data obtained from cotton and wool yarns. The results show that hairiness increases the air drag by about one-quarter and one-third for the rotating cotton and wool yarn packages, respectively. In addition, yarn hairiness increases the air drag by about one-tenth on a ballooning cotton yarn.

Simulation and experimental validation of a ring spinning process

Ring spinning is the most important system of making high quality yarns in the textile industry. Yarn tension affects yarn breakage, which in turn affects yarn productivity in ring spinning. Accurate information about how various spinning parameters affect yarn tension is essential for the optimisation of the ring spinning process. In this paper, a program to simulate the ring spinning process was developed using MATLAB, which can predict yarn tension under given spinning conditions. The simulation results were verified with experimental results obtained from ring spinning cotton and wool yarns.

Recent studies on yarn tension and energy consumption in ring spinning

High energy consumption remains a key challenge for the widely used ring spinning system. Tackling this challenge requires a full understanding of the various factors that contribute to yarn tension and energy consumption during ring spinning. In this paper, we report our recent experimental and theoretical research on air drag, yarn tension and energy consumption in ring spinning. A specially constructed rig was used to simulate the ring spinning process; and yarn tension at the guide-eye was measured for different yarns under different conditions. The effect of yarn hairiness on the air drag acting on a rotating yarn package and on a ballooning yarn was examined. Models of the power requirements for overcoming the air drag, increasing the kinetic energy of the yarn package (bobbin and wound yarn) and overcoming the yarn wind-on tension were developed. The ratio of energy-consumption to yarn-production over a full yarn package was discussed. A program to simulate yarn winding in ring spinning was implemented, which can generate the balloon shape and predict yarn tension under a given spinning condition. The simulation results were verified with experimental results obtained from spinning cotton and wool yarns.

A controlled experiment on yarn hairiness and fabric pilling

This study focused on the hairiness of worsted wool yarns and how it affects the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics. Conventional worsted ring spun yarns were compared with comparable SolospunTM yarns and yarns modified with a hairiness reducing air nozzle in the winding process (JetWind). Measurements of yarn hairiness (S3) on the Zweigle G565 hairiness meter showed a reduction in the S3 value of approximately 46% was achieved using SolospunTM ring spinning attachment and a 33% reduction was achieved using the JetWind process. Interestingly, subsequent evaluation of the pilling performance of fabrics made from the SolospunTM spun yarn and JetWind modified yarn showed a half grade and full grade improvement, respectively over a similar fabric made from conventional ring spun yarns. This result suggested that a relatively large reduction in yarn hairiness was needed to achieve a moderate improvement in fabric pilling, and that the nature of yarn hairiness was also a key factor in influencing fabric pilling propensity. It is postulated that the wrapping of surface hairs by the air vortex in the JetWind process may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and reach the critical height required for pill formation.

Measurement precision and evaluation of the diameter profiles of single wool fibers

A recent model of the Single Fiber Analyzer 3001 (SIFAN3001) was firstly employed to obtain the single wool fiber diameter profiles (SfFDPs) at multiple orientations. The results showed that using SIFAN3001 to measure fiber diameter at four orientations for 50 single fibers randomly sub-sampled from each mid-side sample can produce average fiber diameter profiles (AS fFDPs) of fibers within staples. Within the testing regime used, the precision estimates for the total samples were ±1.3 µm for the mean fiber diameter of staples and 1.4 µm for the average fiber diameter of the AS fFDPs at each scanned step in the diameter profile. The mean diameter ratio (ellipticity) obtained from the four orientations was 1.08±0.01, confirming that the Merino wool fibers under review were elliptical rather than circular. The elliptical morphology of wool fibers and the precision of the fiber diameter measurement at each point along a fiber will be considered in the development of a mechanical model of Staple Strength testing.

Modelling yarn balloon motion in ring spinning

Air-drag on a ballooning yarn and balloon shape affect the yarn tension and ends-down (yarn breakage), which in turn affects energy consumption and yarn productivity in ring spinning. In this article, a mathematical model of yarn ballooning motion in ring spinning is established. The model can be used to generate balloon shape and predict tension in the ballooning yarn under given spinning conditions. Yarn tension was measured using a computer data acquisition system and the balloon shapes were captured using a digital camera with video capability during the experiments using cotton and wool yarns at various balloon-heights and with varying yarn-length in the balloon. The air-drag coefficients on ballooning cotton and wool yarns in ring spinning were estimated by making a “best fit” between the theoretical and experimental turning points. The theoretical results were verified with experimental data. The effects of air-drag and balloon shape on yarn tension are discussed.

Modified two-strand spinning (part III : yarn performance)

In this final part of the series, modified two-strand spun yarns are produced on a modified Sirospun system. The yarns are then evaluated against conventional Sirospun yarns.