Sunray etched Visors for the Jamaican Olympic Team in three colours: yellow, green and black

Design for visors for the delegation from Jamaica to the London Olympic Games 2012. This design was commissioned by PUMA 2012 based on McLean's designs featured in the website House of Flora, which functions as a space of display, archive, folio, point of sale and dissemination. The McLean standard design for visors is a component of the avant garde, pret a porter millinery, accessory design collections, and stylistically customised for the Jamaican team. McLean's oeuvre is original in its integration of the experimental traditions of art school workshop culture with the professional demands of fashion manufacture and trade culture. Combining the innovation of the postmodern urban artisan with the exacting demands of industrial production, dissemination and distribution McLean's design work spans the disparate worlds of national art collections such as the Victoria and Albert Museum (A Hat Anthology Exhibition, and catalogue 2009), London Design Museum ( Fifty Hats that Changed the World 2009). Integrating design considerations of multiple and mass production with the stylistic considerations of the studio workshop McLean brings the wit of the avant garde urban artisan to the structures and systems of fashion industry. The designs reach to a global audience as product users, as well as to the international connoisseurship of crafts and design specialists. The rigour of McLean's research and innovation is evident in the specificity of the stylistic references made through her selection of materials, processes, form, colour and symbolism. A range of cultural references cite the rich fusion of early twentieth century modernist culture in which the disparate worlds of popular, proletarian, culture fertilised the stylistic austerity of high modern formalism. McLean here considers the relationship between millinery and coiffure, following from the millinery piece featured in (Marcel bobbed hairpiece hat), and now brings the considerations of ethnic difference to bear on her design. Afro hair brings user group specificity to the milliner, and the visor design is a resolution of function and style for both protection and display. Connoting the sartorial conventions of workwear headgear, rather than the nineteenth century colonial 'cricketer's' cap, or the twentieth century US 'baseball' peaked cap, McLean's 'Jamaican Olympic Visor' brings distinctively postcolonial meaning to the cultural profile of the heterotopic media space. Designing for the popular culture of Olympic sports, televised and broadcast to global audiences, brings new forms of agency to the fashion designer, and McLan's design deploys a style that is widely recognisable from other popular culture's film and TV depictions of workwear to mark the distinctive tradition of supremacy that black athletes bring to the European traditions of cultural heritage. Supplanting the Arcadian 'laurels' with which winners are, traditionally, crowned, McLean's visor design innovation, suggests that it is not impossible to challenge and transform apparently timeless hierarchies of power and supremacy, so that ex-slaves may also become victors. McLean's fashion designs all work within this reach of fashion towards the carnivalesque inversion of social orderliness through play, display and sartorial activism.

La invocación de los antepasados en "De divinatione" y "De natura deorum" de Cicerón. "Religio e identidad" romana a fines de la república

La invocación del ideal del mos maiorum, entendido como conjunto de virtudes o rasgos ejemplares de los romanos, ha sido estudiada repetidamente en los textos de Cicerón. Analiza el tópico en relación con la discusión en torno a la identidad romana en textos del siglo I a.C. y delimita tres empleos diferentes: uno al que define como típicamente aristocrático, referido a la ascendencia noble de un individuo en particular; un segundo uso que, en vez de individualizar, amalgama a todos los ancestros en un mismo conjunto y establece una continuidad entre pasado y presente; finalmente, una tercera modalidad que propone una ruptura total entre el mundo de los antepasados y el de los contemporáneos. En este trabajo indagaremos el funcionamiento de este tópico en De diuinatione y De natura deorum de Cicerón. Desde nuestro punto de vista, el ideal del mos maiorum no solamente involucra virtudes éticas y morales sino que también supone una especial actitud con respecto a los dioses y el culto que resulta central en la definición de la identidad romana.

Des activités physiques et sportives pratiquées par les femmes au Québec : Témoignages et collections (1880-1974)

Ce mémoire porte sur la pratique du sport et de l‟activité physique par les femmes au Québec entre 1880 et 1974, par l‟étude de la collection d‟objets sportifs du Musée de la civilisation, le dépouillement de catalogues commerciaux et d‟autres documents d‟archives, ainsi que l‟analyse de contenu de témoignages oraux recueillis par la chercheure et tenus dans le cadre du projet « Vivre sa ville : Québec au XXe siècle » du Laboratoire d‟ethnologie urbaine. L‟utilisation de ces trois sources de données permet de faire ressortir les modalités d‟insertion des femmes dans la pratique sportive. Les normes et les pratiques du sport féminin seront abordées notamment en ce qui a trait à l‟hygiène, à la morale chrétienne, aux installations et aux organisations sportives.

Kàjré: a vida social de uma machadinha krahô

This paper proposes to analyse a situation of social drama involving the Krahô Indians (classified in ethnology as belonging to Jê-Timbira group) and the Museu Paulista of the Universidade de São Paulo, which we can classify as two distinct social fields. The understanding of the drama is conveyed through an examination of each of these fields and the coming together of both on the basis of the positions taken up, within the network of relationships established during the social process, by actors representing both the Krahô field and what we may call here the academic-administrative field. A multi-sited ethnographic approach is adopted, seeking the complexity of the drama and the positions in the aforementioned network, taking into consideration institutional political projects, personal projects and personal trajectories within a historical perspective. The aim is to encourage discussion of the relationship between the formation of the historical-scientific and ethnographic museums and the practices of the anthropological discipline, as well as the social role of these institutions and the processes of signification of objects belonging to the indigenous material culture

King of the Renaissance: Art and Politics at the Neapolitan Court of Ferrante I, 1458-1494

In the second half of the fifteenth century, King Ferrante I of Naples (r. 1458-1494) dominated the political and cultural life of the Mediterranean world. His court was home to artists, writers, musicians, and ambassadors from England to Egypt and everywhere in between. Yet, despite its historical importance, Ferrante’s court has been neglected in the scholarship. This dissertation provides a long-overdue analysis of Ferrante’s artistic patronage and attempts to explicate the king’s specific role in the process of art production at the Neapolitan court, as well as the experiences of artists employed therein. By situating Ferrante and the material culture of his court within the broader discourse of Early Modern art history for the first time, my project broadens our understanding of the function of art in Early Modern Europe. I demonstrate that, contrary to traditional assumptions, King Ferrante was a sophisticated patron of the visual arts whose political circumstances and shifting alliances were the most influential factors contributing to his artistic patronage. Unlike his father, Alfonso the Magnanimous, whose court was dominated by artists and courtiers from Spain, France, and elsewhere, Ferrante differentiated himself as a truly Neapolitan king. Yet Ferrante’s court was by no means provincial. His residence, the Castel Nuovo in Naples, became the physical embodiment of his commercial and political network, revealing the accretion of local and foreign visual vocabularies that characterizes Neapolitan visual culture.

Rzecz jako przepustka. Samotna ucieczka z Ravensbrück

Item as a pass: Lonely escape from Ravensbrück, in: B. Walęciuk-Dejneka (ed.) Patterns of women’s loneliness – maidens, widows, divorced, Kraków, pp. 77-86. This research represents a case study of Eugenia Kocwa's escape from Ravensbrück concentration camp in 1944, in which she was incarcerated for her activity in the resistance movement in 1941. Flights from the camps belonged to an extremely rare instances and almost always would have taken a form of group organized break-outs with an additional support from the outer world. The analyzed phenomenon is the only successful individual escape from Ravensbrück, and deserves therefore meticulous attention. In the analysis author lays strong emphasis on a material aspect of the escape and objects incorporated into it, which properly managed, had a decisive influence on fugitive's success. The article is based on testimonies of Eugenia Kocwa and other Ravensbrück prisoners, and adopts theoretical framework of Erving Goffman's total institutions and dramaturgical model

Przestrzenne formy upamiętniania Zagłady

This book is a synthesizing reflection on the Holocaust commemoration, in which space becomes a starting point for discussion. The author understands space primarily as an amalgam of physical and social components, where various commemorative processes may occur. The first part of the book draws attention to the material aspect of space, which determines its character and function. Material culture has been a long ignored and depreciated dimension of human culture in the humanities and social sciences, because it was perceived as passive and fully controlled by human will, and therefore insignificant in the course of social and historical processes. An example of the Nazi system perfectly illustrates how important were the restrictions and prohibitions on the usage of mundane objects, and in general, the whole material culture in relation to macro and micro space management — the state, cities, neighborhoods and houses, but also parks and swimming pools, factories and offices or shops and theaters. The importance of things and space was also clearly visible in exploitative policies present in overcrowded ghettos and concentration and death camps. For this very reason, when we study spatial forms of Holocaust commemoration, it should be acknowledged that the first traces, proofs and mementoes of the murdered were their things. The first "monuments" showing the enormity of the destruction are thus primarily gigantic piles of objects — shoes, glasses, toys, clothes, suitcases, toothbrushes, etc., which together with the extensive camps’ space try to recall the scale of a crime impossible to understand or imagine. The first chapter shows the importance of introducing the material dimension in thinking about space and commemoration, and it ends with a question about one of the key concepts for the book, a monument, which can be understood as both object (singular or plural) and architecture (sculptures, buildings, highways). However, the term monument tends to be used rather in a later and traditional sense, as an architectural, figurative form commemorating the heroic deeds, carved in stone or cast in bronze. Therefore, the next chapter reconstructs this narrower line of thinking, together with a discussion about what form a monument commemorating a subject as delicate and sensitive as the Holocaust should take on. This leads to an idea of the counter-monument, the concept which was supposed to be the answer to the mentioned representational dilemma on the one hand, and which would disassociate it from the Nazi’s traditional monuments on the other hand. This chapter clarifies the counter-monument definition and explains the misunderstandings and confusions generated on the basis of this concept by following the dynamics of the new commemorative form and by investigating monuments from the ‘80s and ‘90s erected in Germany. In the next chapter, I examine various forms of the Holocaust commemoration in Berlin, a city famous for its bold, monumental, and even controversial projects. We find among them the entire spectrum of memorials – big, monumental, and abstract forms, like Peter Eisenman’s Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe or Daniel Liebeskind’s Jewish Museum Berlin; flat, invisible, and employing the idea of emptiness, like Christian Boltanski’s Missing House or Micha Ullman’s Book Burning Memorial; the dispersed and decentralized, like Renata Stih and Frieder Schnock’s Memory Places or Gunter Demnig’s Stumbling Blocks. I enrich descriptions of the monuments by signaling at this point their second, extended life, which manifests itself in the alternative modes of (mis)use, consisting of various social activities or artistic performances. The formal wealth of the outlined projects creates a wide panorama of possible solutions to the Holocaust commemoration problems. However, the discussions accompanying the building of monuments and their "future life" after realization emphasize the importance of the social component that permeates the biography of the monument, and therefore significantly influences its foreseen design. The book also addresses the relationship of space, place and memory in a specific situation, when commemoration is performed secretly or remains as unrealized potential. Although place is the most common space associated with memory, today the nature of this relationship changes, and is what indicates popularity and employment of such terms as Marc Augé’s non-places or Pierre Nora’s site of memory. I include and develop these concepts about space and memory in my reflections to describe qualitatively different phenomena occurring in Central and Eastern European countries. These are unsettling places in rural areas like glades or parking lots, markets and playgrounds in urban settings. I link them to the post-war time and modernization processes and call them sites of non-memory and non-sites of memory. Another part of the book deals with a completely different form of commemoration called Mystery of memory. Grodzka Gate - NN Theatre in Lublin initiated it in 2000 and as a form it situates itself closer to the art of theater than architecture. Real spaces and places of everyday interactions become a stage for these performances, such as the “Jewish town” in Lublin or the Majdanek concentration camp. The minimalist scenography modifies space and reveals its previously unseen dimensions, while the actors — residents and people especially related to places like survivors and Righteous Among the Nations — are involved in the course of the show thanks to various rituals and symbolic gestures. The performance should be distinguished from social actions, because it incorporates tools known from religious rituals and art, which together saturate the mystery of memory with an aura of uniqueness. The last discussed commemoration mode takes the form of exposition space. I examine an exhibition concerning the fate of the incarcerated children presented in one of the barracks of the Majdanek State Museum in Lublin. The Primer – Children in Majdanek Camp is unique for several reasons. First, because even though it is exhibited in the camp barrack, it uses a completely different filter to tell the story of the camp in comparison to the exhibitions in the rest of the barracks. For this reason, one experiences immersing oneself in all subsequent levels of space and narrative accompanying them – at first, in a general narrative about the camp, and later in a specifically arranged space marked by children’s experiences, their language and thinking, and hence formed in a way more accessible for younger visitors. Second, the exhibition resigns from didacticism and distancing descriptions, and takes an advantage of eyewitnesses and survivors’ testimonies instead. Third, the exhibition space evokes an aura of strangeness similar to a fairy tale or a dream. It is accomplished thanks to the arrangement of various, usually highly symbolic material objects, and by favoring the fragrance and phonic sensations, movement, while belittling visual stimulations. The exhibition creates an impression of a place open to thinking and experiencing, and functions as an asylum, a radically different form to its camp surrounding characterized by a more overwhelming and austere space.

The spatial rhetoric of Gustav Zeiller's popular anatomical museum

This article focuses on the public experience of science by studying the exhibition practice of a small popular anatomy museum. The owner, Gustav Zeiller, a little-known German model maker and entrepreneur, opened his private collection in Dresden in 1888 with the aim of providing experts and laymen alike with a scientific education on bodily matters and health care. The spatial configuration of his museum environment turned the wax models into didactic instruments. Relying on the possible connexion between material culture studies and history of the emotions, this article highlights how Zeiller choreographed the encounter between the museum objects and its visitors. I argue that the spatial set up of his museum objects entailed rhetorical choices that did not simply address the social utility of his museum. Moreover, it fulfilled the aim of modifying the emotional disposition of his intended spectatorship. I hope to show that studying the emotional responses toward artefacts can offer a fruitful approach to examine the public experience of medicine.

Complexos de estudo: investigando um experimento de currículo em uma escola de assentamento do MST no Paraná

The Landless Rural Workers Movement (MST) from its educational process and the path taken in education, started in the year 2013, with an experimental curricular proposal by Complexes of study the School Base and the Itinerant Schools, the MST, in Paraná state. For the construction of this proposed curriculum, the movement takes the historical background and the experience of the original foundations of the single school of labor started by the working class in revolutionary Soviet period as a training proposal and school organization that comes close to the creation of collective subjects, fighters and builders of a new society and sociopolitical objectives to this social movement. The Soviet experiment reference required a work of a critical appropriation for the Brazilian context. The curriculum prescription, called Study Plan, in its introduction, includes elements of design fundamentals like: the Education Eesign and Training Matrix; Matrix detailing: School and Life, School and Labor Formative Matrix, School and Social Struggle Formative Matrix, School and Collective Organization Formative Matrix, School and Culture Formative Matrix and School and History Formative Matrix; general school guidelines: a pedagogical function of the environment, the school's political organization, school times, specific methodological aspects, sequencing and duration of Complexes of Study and the evaluation process. The Study Plan contemplates the complexes, the disciplines, the portions of reality / practice categories present in complexes, organized by semester and year, i. e., from 6th to 9th grade in elementary school. Given the the presented context, this research aims to analyze the process of testing the proposed curriculum for the Complexes of Study in Primary School of Iraci Salette Strozak State School, located in the Marcos Freire Settlement, in Rio Bonito do Iguaçu in Paraná state. As a methodological approach, we chose the qualitative approach and analysis were conducted under the Marxism perspective. Library research and field research, semi-structured interviews and analysis of documents generated in the process of construction of the proposal were made.Initially, in this paper, we discus about the path followed by the MST in the fight for schools and public education; highlighting elements of the process which led to the understanding, by the Movement, of which only the struggle for land is not enough for the realization of Agrarian Reform. Then discuss whether some elements of Pedagogy of the Movement, the concept of education and the goals for education that Social Movement, the training matrices and the potential to transform the school from a pedagogical proposal that has these elements as guiding. They present also the original foundations of Complexes Study in its historical origin and design. Is discussed about the changes and curriculum innovations, curriculum as schooling as social reproduction and presents the structure of Curriculum Proposal by Complex of Study. Forth, it is shown how the experiment occurred in basis School Iraci Salette Strozak. At this point, we propose a dialogue on the transformations in the organization of pedagogical work, discussing the elements of the proposal that are being experienced and the changes already perceived. Still, we address the issue of formation of educators and also elements relating to the challenges andadvancements encountered by the school in this area, and possible implications for the experiment.

Between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean : the late bronze age around the Tagus estuary (Portugal) : economic, social and cultural aspects

This paper deals with the importance, quantity and diversity of Late Bronze Age sites known around the Tagus estuary. The material culture points out to the existence of cultural stimuli from very different origins: from the Iberian Peninsula inner, the North Atlantic and the Mediterranean basin, related to the social organization and the economy of the populations that inhabited this region between the XIII century BC and the IX century BC, according to the available radiocarbon data. These populations interacted with the first Phoenicians that arrived to the region at the end of this period, after episodic relations of trading with their antecedents, from Central Mediterranean region.

Na Estremadura do Neolítico antigo ao neolítico final : os contributos de um percurso pessoal

Apresenta-se síntese sobre o faseamento do Neolítico na Estremadura, território onde o Autor tem desenvolvido boa parte da sua investigação, tomando como referência as estações onde tem dirigido escavações ou em cujas publicações tem participado. A natureza e características das referidas estações e dos seus espólios, a par da respectiva cronologia absoluta, serão, assim, os elementos essenciais deste contributo, sem prejuízo da sua correlação e discussão num quadro mais alargado, com base na informação disponível para outras estações com interesse comparativo.

Kàjré: a vida social de uma machadinha krahô

This paper proposes to analyse a situation of social drama involving the Krahô Indians (classified in ethnology as belonging to Jê-Timbira group) and the Museu Paulista of the Universidade de São Paulo, which we can classify as two distinct social fields. The understanding of the drama is conveyed through an examination of each of these fields and the coming together of both on the basis of the positions taken up, within the network of relationships established during the social process, by actors representing both the Krahô field and what we may call here the academic-administrative field. A multi-sited ethnographic approach is adopted, seeking the complexity of the drama and the positions in the aforementioned network, taking into consideration institutional political projects, personal projects and personal trajectories within a historical perspective. The aim is to encourage discussion of the relationship between the formation of the historical-scientific and ethnographic museums and the practices of the anthropological discipline, as well as the social role of these institutions and the processes of signification of objects belonging to the indigenous material culture

Nervous Kitchens: Critical Readings of Black Women's Food Practices in The Soul Food Imaginary

Nervous Kitchens intervenes in the story of soul food by treating the kitchen as a central site of instability. These kitchens reveal and critique their importance to constructions of Black womanhood. Utilizing close readings of Black women’s culinary practices in popular televisual kitchens and archival analysis of USDA domestic reforms, the project locates sites that challenge how we oversimplify soul food as a Black cultural product. These oversimplifications come through what I term the soul food imaginary. This term underscores how the cuisine is tangible (i.e., how dishes are made) but also the ways that histories of enslavement, migration, and domesticity are disseminated through fictionalized representations of Black women in the kitchen offering comfort through food. The project explores how images of these kitchens adhere to and diverge from the imaginary's four conventions: (1) Soul food originates in enslavement where master’s scraps became mama’s meal time; (2) Soul food is not healthy food; (3) Soul food moves South to North uninterrupted during the Great Migration and is evidence of and fuel for struggle, survival, and transformation; and 4) Black women cook it the best, naturally, and alone in the kitchen.

Os museus e o património cultural imaterial: Estratégias para o desenvolvimento de boa práticas

omando como referência fundamental o trabalho desenvolvido pela UNESCO em matéria de proteção do Património Cultural Imaterial (PCI), muito particularmente a Convenção para a Salvaguarda do Património Cultural Imaterial (2003), considerou-se oportuno refletir sobre as implicações que este enfoque traz para os museus. São indiscutíveis as repercussões que este instrumento trouxe para o reconhecimento da importância do PCI à escala internacional, motivando um crescendo de iniciativas em tomo da sua salvaguarda. São vários os agentes envolvidos na preservação deste património, no entanto o International Council of Museums (ICOM) reconhece um papel central aos museus nesta matéria. Mas para responder a este repto, os museus terão que repensar as suas estratégias de forma a relacionar-se mais com o PCI, contrariando uma longa tradição profundamente enraizada na cultura material. O presente estudo reflete sobre as possibilidades de actuação dos museus no sentido de dar resposta aos desafios da Convenção 2003, sendo certo que a partir das catividades dos museus é possível encontrar formas de estudar e de dar visibilidade a este património. Em função das especificidades de cada museu, podem ser encontradas estratégias de salvaguarda do PCI, entre as quais se pode incluir o inventário e a documentação (audiovisual, texto, áudio, imagem), a investigação, a divulgação através de exposições e publicações, difusão através da internet, educação não formal, entre outras actividades. Alguns museus começaram já a desenvolver abordagens integradas para a salvaguarda do PCI, cujos exemplos se apresentam. Este tema suscita vários desafios, implicando práticas museológicas inovadoras que possam reflectir o papel dos museus como promotores da diversidade e criatividade cultural. ABSTRACT: Recalling the UNESCO's work towards the protection of Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), in particular the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage adopted in 2003, I took this opportunity to reflect upon the implications that this recognition brings to museums. The overwhelming success of this document has raised the importance of ICH at international level, motivating a growing number of initiatives towards its safeguard. Accordingly, to the 2003 Convention, there are many agents involved in the preservation of this heritage, yet the International Council of Museums (ICOM) recognizes a central role for museums. Nevertheless, to face this challenge, museums will have to rethink their relationship with ICH in opposition to their deep rooted tradition in material culture. The present study reflects upon the possibilities that museums have to answer the changeling 2003 Convention, recognizing that it’s possible through museum activities to find ways to study and give visibility to ICH. According to each museum specificities, it seems clear that strategies can be engaged in order to promote the safeguard of ICH, including inventory and documentation (audiovisual, audio, text and image), research, promotion through exhibitions, publications, dissemination trough internet and other means, informal education, among other activities. Many museums have already started exploring integrated approaches towards the safeguard of ICH and some of these examples are presented in this study. This theme is challenging, implying innovative museum practices which reflect on museums role towards the promotion of cultural diversity and creativity.

La mise en valeur de l'archéologie sur la côte nord du Pérou : le cas de Chan Chan et de Huacas de Moche.

Notre mémoire porte sur la mise en valeur du patrimoine archéologique sur la côte nord du Pérou. À partir de deux études de cas, Chan Chan et Huacas de Moche, nous cherchons à faire ressortir différentes approches de mise en valeur au complexe archéologique et d’exposition au musée de site. La cité de Chan Chan aurait été la capitale de l’Empire chimor (900 à 1476 ap. J.C.) et utilisée à titre de siège pour le gouvernement, de résidence, de centre administratif et de centre religieux. Le complexe de Huaca del Sol y de la Luna aurait été la capitale de la civilisation moche (100 av. J.C. à 700 ap. J.C.) à son apogée. Il représente l’un des plus anciens centre urbain-cérémonial de la côte nord du Pérou. Le cas du Musée de site de Chan Chan présente un modèle muséographique des années 1990, tandis que le cas du Musée de site de Huacas de Moche propose une approche puisant ses concepts dans la nouvelle muséologie (2010). D’autre part, ces modèles de gestion, l’un issu du secteur public (Chan Chan) et l’autre (Huacas de Moche) émanant d’une gestion mixte ont une influence sur la manière de présenter l’archéologie au public. Le premier chapitre aborde l’histoire du développement de l’archéologie, des musées et du tourisme au Pérou. La deuxième partie de ce chapitre traite des questions liées à l’herméneutique de la culture matérielle, des questions esthétiques et de l’architecture précolombienne, ainsi que des approches de médiation. Le deuxième chapitre met en parallèle l’analyse du circuit de visite du complexe archéologique de Chan Chan et celui de Huacas de Moche. Le troisième chapitre présente l’analyse de la mise en exposition des musées de site des deux études de cas et des liens créés avec leur site archéologique. Le quatrième chapitre porte sur les formes de financement des projets de fouilles, de conservation, de restauration et de mise en valeur de l’archéologie, ainsi que des stratégies utilisées pour sa diffusion et sa mise en tourisme. Enfin, la dernière section du quatrième chapitre traite des différents moyens utilisés par chacun des complexes archéologiques et leurs musées pour intégrer la communauté locale aux projets de recherche et de mise en valeur archéologique.