Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

On the measurement of the velocity of longitudinal waves in water contained in glass and aluminum tubes, at low frequencies.

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Sloshing motion of water in a moonpool

This thesis is concerned with the sloshing motion of water in a moonpool. It is a relatively new problem, that is particularly predominant in moonpools with relatively large dimensions. The problem is further complicated by the additional behaviour of vertical oscillation. It is inevitable that large moonpools will be needed as offshore technology advances, therefore making a problem an important one. The research involves two parts, the theoretical and experimental study. The theoretical study consists of idealising the moonpool to a two dimensional system, represented by two surface piercing parallel barriers at a distance 2a apart. The barriers are forced to undergo roll motion which in turn generates waves. These travelling waves are travelling in opposite directions to each other and have the same amplitude and period, and thus can be expressed in terms of a standing wave. This is mathematically achieved by applying the theory of wavemaking, and therefore the wave amplitude at the side wall can be evaluated at near resonant conditions. The experimental study comprises of comparing the results obtained from the tank and moonpool experiments. The rolling motion creates the sloshing waves in both cases, in addition the vertical oscillation in the moonpool is produced by generating waves at one end of the towing tank. Apart from highlighting influencing parameters, the resonant frequencies obtained from these experiments are then compared with the theoretical values. Experiments in demonstrating the effect of increasing damping with the aid of baffles are also conducted. This is an important aspect which is very necessary if operations in launching and retrieving are to be carried out efficiently and safely.

Higher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves

Higher-order spectral analysis is used to detect the presence of secondary and tertiary forced waves associated with the nonlinearity of energetic swell observed in 8- and 13-m water depths. Higher-order spectral analysis techniques are first described and then applied to the field data, followed by a summary of the results.

Estimating present day extreme total water level exceedance probabilities around the Australian coastline

The occurrence of extreme water level events along low-lying, highly populated and/or developed coastlines can lead to devastating impacts on coastal infrastructure. Therefore it is very important that the probabilities of extreme water levels are accurately evaluated to inform flood and coastal management and for future planning. The aim of this study was to provide estimates of present day extreme total water level exceedance probabilities around the whole coastline of Australia, arising from combinations of mean sea level, astronomical tide and storm surges generated by both extra-tropical and tropical storms, but exclusive of surface gravity waves. The study has been undertaken in two main stages. In the first stage, a high-resolution (~10 km along the coast) hydrodynamic depth averaged model has been configured for the whole coastline of Australia using the Danish Hydraulics Institute’s Mike21 modelling suite of tools. The model has been forced with astronomical tidal levels, derived from the TPX07.2 global tidal model, and meteorological fields, from the US National Center for Environmental Prediction’s global reanalysis, to generate a 61-year (1949 to 2009) hindcast of water levels. This model output has been validated against measurements from 30 tide gauge sites around Australia with long records. At each of the model grid points located around the coast, time series of annual maxima and the several highest water levels for each year were derived from the multi-decadal water level hindcast and have been fitted to extreme value distributions to estimate exceedance probabilities. Stage 1 provided a reliable estimate of the present day total water level exceedance probabilities around southern Australia, which is mainly impacted by extra-tropical storms. However, as the meteorological fields used to force the hydrodynamic model only weakly include the effects of tropical cyclones the resultant water levels exceedance probabilities were underestimated around western, northern and north-eastern Australia at higher return periods. Even if the resolution of the meteorological forcing was adequate to represent tropical cyclone-induced surges, multi-decadal periods yielded insufficient instances of tropical cyclones to enable the use of traditional extreme value extrapolation techniques. Therefore, in the second stage of the study, a statistical model of tropical cyclone tracks and central pressures was developed using histroic observations. This model was then used to generate synthetic events that represented 10,000 years of cyclone activity for the Australia region, with characteristics based on the observed tropical cyclones over the last ~40 years. Wind and pressure fields, derived from these synthetic events using analytical profile models, were used to drive the hydrodynamic model to predict the associated storm surge response. A random time period was chosen, during the tropical cyclone season, and astronomical tidal forcing for this period was included to account for non-linear interactions between the tidal and surge components. For each model grid point around the coast, annual maximum total levels for these synthetic events were calculated and these were used to estimate exceedance probabilities. The exceedance probabilities from stages 1 and 2 were then combined to provide a single estimate of present day extreme water level probabilities around the whole coastline of Australia.

Wake angle for surface gravity waves on a finite depth fluid

Linear water wave theory suggests that wave patterns caused by a steadily moving disturbance are contained within a wedge whose half-angle depends on the depth-based Froude number $F_H$. For the problem of flow past an axisymmetric pressure distribution in a finite-depth channel, we report on the apparent angle of the wake, which is the angle of maximum peaks. For moderately deep channels, the dependence of the apparent wake angle on the Froude number is very different to the wedge angle, and varies smoothly as $F_H$ passes through the critical value $F_H=1$. For shallow water, the two angles tend to follow each other more closely, which leads to very large apparent wake angles for certain regimes.

Exact free-surface flows for shallow-water equations .1. - the incompressible case

A comprehensive exact treatment of free surface flows governed by shallow water equations (in sigma variables) is given. Several new families of exact solutions of the governing PDEs are found and are shown to embed the well-known self-similar or traveling wave solutions which themselves are governed by reduced ODEs. The classes of solutions found here are explicit in contrast to those found earlier in an implicit form. The height of the free surface for each family of solutions is found explicitly. For the traveling or simple wave, the free surface is governed by a nonlinear wave equation, but is arbitrary otherwise. For other types of solutions, the height of the free surface is constant either on lines of constant acceleration or on lines of constant speed; in another case, the free surface is a horizontal plane while the flow underneath is a sine wave. The existence of simple waves on shear flows is analytically proved. The interaction of large amplitude progressive waves with shear flow is also studied.

The Wiener-Hopf solution of a class of mixed boundary value problems arising in surface water wave phenomena

Two mixed boundary value problems associated with two-dimensional Laplace equation, arising in the study of scattering of surface waves in deep water (or interface waves in two superposed fluids) in the linearised set up, by discontinuities in the surface (or interface) boundary conditions, are handled for solution by the aid of the Weiner-Hopf technique applied to a slightly more general differential equation to be solved under general boundary conditions and passing on to the limit in a manner so as to finally give rise to the solutions of the original problems. The first problem involves one discontinuity while the second problem involves two discontinuities. The reflection coefficient is obtained in closed form for the first problem and approximately for the second. The behaviour of the reflection coefficient for both the problems involving deep water against the incident wave number is depicted in a number of figures. It is observed that while the reflection coefficient for the first problem steadily increases with the wave number, that for the second problem exhibits oscillatory behaviour and vanishes at some discrete values of the wave number. Thus, there exist incident wave numbers for which total transmission takes place for the second problem. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Low-frequency modes in an equatorial shallow-water model with moisture gradients

Motivated by observations of the mean state of tropical precipitable water (PW), a moist, first baroclinic mode, shallow-water system on an equatorial beta-plane with a background saturation profile that depends on latitude and longitude is studied. In the presence of a latitudinal moisture gradient, linear analysis of the non-rotating problem reveals large-scale, symmetric, eastward and westward propagating unstable modes. The introduction of a zonal moisture gradient breaks the east-west symmetry of the unstable modes. The effects of rotation are then included by numerically solving the resulting eigenvalue problem on an equatorial beta-plane. With a purely meridional moisture gradient, the system supports large-scale, low-frequency, eastward and westward moving neutral modes. Some of the similarities, and some of the discrepancies of these modes with intraseasonal tropical waves are pointed out. Finally, a zonal moisture gradient in the presence of rotation renders some of the aforementioned neutral modes unstable. In particular, according to observations of large-scale, low-frequency tropical variability, it is seen that regions where the background saturation profile increases (decreases) to the east favour eastward (westward) moving moist modes.

An experimental study on turbulent coherent structures near a sheared air-water interface

The turbulence structures near a sheared air-water interface were experimentally investigated with the hydrogen bubble visualization technique. Surface shear was imposed by an airflow over the water flow which was kept free from surface waves. Results show that the wind shear has the main influence on coherent structures under air-water interfaces. Low- and high- speed streaks form in the region close to the interface as a result of the imposed shear stress. When a certain airflow velocity is reached, "turbulent spots" appear randomly at low-speed streaks with some characteristics of hairpin vortices. At even higher shear rates, the flow near the interface is dominated primarily by intermittent bursting events. The coherent structures observed neat sheared air-water interfaces show qualitative similarities with those occurring in near-wall turbulence. However, a few distinctive phenomena were also observed, including the fluctuating thickness of the instantaneous boundary layer and vertical vortices in bursting processes, which appear to be associated with the characteristics of air-water interfaces.

An Efficient Front-Tracking Method For Fully Nonlinear Interfacial Waves

A fully nonlinear and dispersive model within the framework of potential theory is developed for interfacial (2-layer) waves. To circumvent the difficulties arisen from the moving boundary problem a viable technique based on the mixed Eulerian and Lagrangian concept is proposed: the computing area is partitioned by a moving mesh system which adjusts its location vertically to conform to the shape of the moving boundaries but keeps frozen in the horizontal direction. Accordingly, a modified dynamic condition is required to properly compute the boundary potentials. To demonstrate the effectiveness of the current method, two important problems for the interfacial wave dynamics, the generation and evolution processes, are investigated. Firstly, analytical solutions for the interfacial wave generations by the interaction between the barotropic tide and topography are derived and compared favorably with the numerical results. Furthermore simulations are performed for the nonlinear interfacial wave evolutions at various water depth ratios and satisfactory agreement is achieved with the existing asymptotical theories. (c) 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

The interaction of two pairs of solitary waves in a two-fluid system

This paper deals with the interaction of solitary waves in a two-fluid system which consistsof two superimposed incompressible inviscid fluids with a free surface and a horizontal rigidbottom. Under the assumption of shallow water wave, we first derive the basic equationssuitable for the model considered, a generalized form of the Boussinesq equations, then usingthe PLK method and the reductive perturbation method, obtain the second-order approximatesolution for the head-on collision between two pairs of interface and surface solitary waves,and give their maximum amplitudes during the collision and the nonuniform phase shiftsafter the collision which lead to the distortion of the wave profiles.

Influence of Wind and Grain Size on Migration of Asymmetric Sand Waves

Large parts of shallow seas are covered by regular seabed patterns and sand wave is one kind of these patterns. The instability of the sedimentary structures may hazard pipelines and the foundations of offshore structures. In the last decade or so, it's a focus for engineers to investigate the movement mechanism of sand waves. Previous theoretical studies of the subject have developed a general model to predict the growth and migration of sand waves, which is based on the two-dimensional vertical shallow water equations and the bed-form deformation equations. Although the relation between wave-current flow and sand bed deformation has been established, the topographic influence has not been considered in the model. In this paper some special patterns, which are asymmetric and close to the reality, are represent as the perturbed seabed and the evolution of sand waves is calculated. The combination of a steady flow induced by wind and a sinusoidal tidal flow is considered as the basic flow. Finally the relations of some parameters (grain size, etc.) and sand waves' growth and migration are discussed, and the growth rate and migration speeds of asymmetric sand waves are carried out.