Fourier Transform Method for Measuring the Micro Amplitu of Water Surface Waves

采用一种非接触的光学方法傅立叶变换莫尔法(Fourier transform method),结合数字图像处理技术,对微幅振荡的水表面波的振幅进行测量.它是对全场中每一个像素点进行测量,比接触测量法具有更高的灵敏度.它为微幅水表面波振幅的测量提供了一种手段.通过将计算机生成的周期性光栅图像经投影机直接投影到被测物体的参考平面,经CCD摄像头、图像板捕捉存储形成数字化的光栅图像,利用傅立叶变换莫尔法处理光栅图像,从而获得包含有水表面波的振幅的相位信息,再经适当的几何变换获得振幅信息.我们在垂直振荡装置上进行了不同激励频率和不同振幅的表面波的振幅测量.

Steady capillary-gravity waves on deep water

The properties of capillary-gravity waves of permanent form on deep water are studied. Two different formulations to the problem are given. The theory of simple bifurcation is reviewed. For small amplitude waves a formal perturbation series is used. The Wilton ripple phenomenon is reexamined and shown to be associated with a bifurcation in which a wave of permanent form can double its period. It is shown further that Wilton's ripples are a special case of a more general phenomenon in which bifurcation into subharmonics and factorial higher harmonics can occur. Numerical procedures for the calculation of waves of finite amplitude are developed. Bifurcation and limit lines are calculated. Pure and combination waves are continued to maximum amplitude. It is found that the height is limited in all cases by the surface enclosing one or more bubbles. Results for the shape of gravity waves are obtained by solving an integra-differential equation. It is found that the family of solutions giving the waveheight or equivalent parameter has bifurcation points. Two bifurcation points and the branches emanating from them are found specifically, corresponding to a doubling and tripling of the wavelength. Solutions on the new branches are calculated.

Space-frequency coupling, conical waves, and small-scale filamentation in water

Numerical simulations of fs laser propagation in water have been made to explain the small-scale filaments in water we have observed by a nonlinear fluorescence technique. Some analytical descriptions combined with numerical simulations show that a space-frequency coupling mainly from the interplay among self-phase modulation, dispersion and phase mismatching will reshape the laser beam into a conical wave which plays a major role of energy redistribution and can prevent laser beam from self-guiding over a long distance. An effective group velocity dispersion is introduced to explain the pulse broadening and compression in the filamentation. (c) 2005 American Institute of Physics.

Study of the turbulence in the air-side and water-side boundary layers in experimental laboratory wind induced surface waves

This study detailed the structure of turbulence in the air-side and water-side boundary layers in wind-induced surface waves. Inside the air boundary layer, the kurtosis is always greater than 3 (the value for normal distribution) for both horizontal and vertical velocity fluctuations. The skewness for the horizontal velocity is negative, but the skewness for the vertical velocity is always positive. On the water side, the kurtosis is always greater than 3, and the skewness is slightly negative for the horizontal velocity and slightly positive for the vertical velocity. The statistics of the angle between the instantaneous vertical fluctuation and the instantaneous horizontal velocity in the air is similar to those obtained over solid walls. Measurements in water show a large variance, and the peak is biased towards negative angles. In the quadrant analysis, the contribution of quadrants Q2 and Q4 is dominant on both the air side and the water side. The non-dimensional relative contributions and the concentration match fairly well near the interface. Sweeps in the air side (belonging to quadrant Q4) act directly on the interface and exert pressure fluctuations, which, in addition to the tangential stress and form drag, lead to the growth of the waves. The water drops detached from the crest and accelerated by the wind can play a major role in transferring momentum and in enhancing the turbulence level in the water side.On the air side, the Reynolds stress tensor's principal axes are not collinear with the strain rate tensor, and show an angle α σ≈=-20°to-25°. On the water side, the angle is α σ≈=-40°to-45°. The ratio between the maximum and the minimum principal stresses is σ a/σ b=3to4 on the air side, and σ a/σ b=1.5to3 on the water side. In this respect, the air-side flow behaves like a classical boundary layer on a solid wall, while the water-side flow resembles a wake. The frequency of bursting on the water side increases significantly along the flow, which can be attributed to micro-breaking effects - expected to be more frequent at larger fetches. © 2012 Elsevier B.V.

Statistical distribution of depth-integrated local horizontal momentum for second-order random ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth- integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

NONLINEAR GRAVITY-WAVES IN DEEP-WATER

In consideration of the problem on the boundary condition of nonlinear free water wave, coordinate transform is used to handle the free boundary. Supposing the solution form be the traveling wave, the ordinary differential equations of the one-order autonomous system with two variables are caused, then expanding the nonlinear terms at the equilibrium point with the Taylor expansion, we obtained the solution to traveling wave. The linear approximate equation near the equilibrium point is the small amplitude wave. A new nonlinear periodic traveling wave and nonlinear dispersion relation are shown when expanding to the second-order terms. A conclusion that the expansion of dispersion relation does not contain any odd-power terms of wave steepness and because of the nonlinear effort an oscillate structure is produced in the vertical direction is drawn.

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.

Impact of mass lumping on gravity and Rossby waves in 2D finite-element shallow-water models

The goal of this study is to evaluate the effect of mass lumping on the dispersion properties of four finite-element velocity/surface-elevation pairs that are used to approximate the linear shallow-water equations. For each pair, the dispersion relation, obtained using the mass lumping technique, is computed and analysed for both gravity and Rossby waves. The dispersion relations are compared with those obtained for the consistent schemes (without lumping) and the continuous case. The P0-P1, RT0 and P-P1 pairs are shown to preserve good dispersive properties when the mass matrix is lumped. Test problems to simulate fast gravity and slow Rossby waves are in good agreement with the analytical results.

Bernoulli free-boundary problems in strip-like domains and a property of permanent waves on water of finite depth

We study weak solutions for a class of free-boundary problems which includes as a special case the classical problem of travelling gravity waves on water of finite depth. We show that such problems are equivalent to problems in fixed domains and study the regularity of their solutions. We also prove that in very general situations the free boundary is necessarily the graph of a function.

An integrable evolution equation for surface waves in deep water

In order to describe the dynamics of monochromatic surface waves in deep water, we derive a nonlinear and dispersive system of equations for the free surface elevation and the free surface velocity from the Euler equations in infinite depth. From it, and using a multiscale perturbative method, an asymptotic model for small wave steepness ratio is derived. The model is shown to be completely integrable. The Lax pair, the first conserved quantities as well as the symmetries are exhibited. Theoretical and numerical studies reveal that it supports periodic progressive Stokes waves which peak and break in finite time. Comparison between the limiting wave solution of the asymptotic model and classical results is performed.

Geometrical and kinematic properties of interfacial waves in stratified oil-water flow in inclined pipe

The stratified oil-water flow pattern is common in the petroleum industry, especially in offshore directional wells and pipelines. Previous studies have shown that the phenomenon of flow pattern transition in stratified flow can be related to the interfacial wave structure (problem of hydrodynamic instability). The study of the wavy stratified flow pattern requires the characterization of the interfacial wave properties, i.e., average shape, celerity and geometric properties (amplitude and wavelength) as a function of holdup, inclination angle and phases' relative velocity. However, the data available in the literature on wavy stratified flow is scanty, especially in inclined pipes and when oil is viscous. This paper presents new geometric and kinematic interfacial wave properties as a function of a proposed two-phase Froude number in the wavy-stratified liquid-liquid flow. The experimental work was conducted in a glass test line of 12 m and 0.026 m id., oil (density and viscosity of 828 kg/m(3) and 0.3 Pa s at 20 degrees C, respectively) and water as the working fluids at several inclinations from horizontal (-20 degrees, -10 degrees, 0 degrees, 10 degrees, 20 degrees). The results suggest a physical relation between wave shape and the hydrodynamic stability of the stratified liquid-liquid flow pattern. (C) 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.