Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Energy and economic survey of the renovation of a residential building wall in Madrid

La edificación es un sector de enorme influencia en la evolución del consumo de energía y las emisiones de CO2. Teniendo en cuenta que en estos momentos hay 3,5 millones de viviendas vacías y que los próximos años no va a haber un aumento en la demanda de vivienda nueva, la rehabilitación sostenible del parque residencial existente es una tarea prioritaria y sobre la que hay que prestar especial interés. Dado que aún queda mucho donde actuar, es necesario hacer una reflexión sobre cómo se está rehabilitando para poder mejorar en el futuro. Por ello, el objetivo del presente trabajo es analizar algunas estrategias adoptadas hasta ahora en el parque inmobiliario y su aplicación en un caso de estudio, mediante la mejora de la fachada de un edificio de viviendas situado en Madrid.

Use of Headed Reinforcement Bars in Contruction. A Theoretical Approach to Determine the Dimensions of Anchorage Plates and Experimental Tests on Knee Joints Subjected to a Closing Moment

In order to reduce costs and time while improving quality, durability and sustainability in structural concrete constructions, a widely used material nowadays, special care must be taken in some crucial phases of the project and execution, including the structure design and calculation, the dosage, dumping and curing of concrete: another important aspect is the proper design and execution of assembly plans and construction details. The framework, a name designating the whole reinforcement bars cage already assembled as shown in the drawings, can be made up of several components and implies higher or lower industrialization degree. The framework costs constitute about one third of the price per cubic meter placed in concrete works. The best solutions from all points of view are clearly those involving an easier processing to achieve the same goal, and consequently carrying a high degree of industrialization, meaning quality and safety in the work. This thesis aims to provide an indepth analysis of a relatively new type of anchoring by plate known as headed reinforcement bars, which can potentially replace standard or L-shaped hooks, improving the cleaning of construction details and enabling a faster, more flexible, and therefore a more economical assembly. A literature review on the topic and an overview of typical applications is provided, followed by some examples of specific applications in real projects. Since a strict theoretical formulation used to provide the design plate dimensions has not yet been put forward, an equation is proposed for the side-face blowout strength of the anchorage, based on the capacity of concrete to carry concentrated loads in cases in which no transverse reinforcement is provided. The correlation of the calculated ultimate load with experimental results available in the literature is given. Besides, the proposed formulation can be expanded to cases in which a certain development length is available: using a software for nonlinear finite element analysis oriented to the study of reinforced concrete, numerical tests on the bond-bearing interaction are performed. The thesis ends with a testing of eight corner joints subjected to a closing moment, held in the Structures Laboratory of the Polytechnic University of Madrid, aiming to check whether the design of such plates as stated is adequate for these elements and whether an element with plate-anchored reinforcement is equivalent to one with a traditional construction detail.

Networked Utopia : the Architecture and Urbanism of the Bata Shoe Company Satellite Cities = Utopia en red : arquitectura y urbanismo en las ciudades satélite de la Bata Shoe Company, 1930 al presente

From its humble beginnings as a small workshop established by Tomáš Baťa in 1874, the Bata Shoe Company became a gigantic concern in the 1920s, built on the principles of scientific management and welfare capitalism. The growth of the company engulfed Zlín (in today’s Czech Republic), its hometown, and transformed it into a modern industrial garden city satisfying the needs of both a growing industrial population, and those of the company itself. As a reaction to the aftermath of the crisis of 1929, the enterprise began a strategy of decentralization and international expansion characterized by the design and construction of a series of modern industrial towns that replicated the model of Zlín around the globe. This study is an exhaustive survey of these cities, their rationale, design, and their postindustrial conditions; it is a comparative work that has used field trips, photography, interviews, and archival material to explain the logics behind Bata’s project, to document the design and implementation of the model to multiple contexts and geographies, and to evaluate of the urban legacy of this undertaking. Finally, the research explores the question of what can the design disciplines, and other parties involved, learn from a full synthesis on the history and urbanism of the Bata satellite cities with regard to the re-imagination and sustainability of contemporary industry-sponsored interventions in developing geographies. RESUMEN Con origen en un humilde y pequeño taller fundado en 1874 por Tomáš Baťa, la Bata Shoe Company creció hasta convertirse en una gigantesca empresa en los anos 20, fundada en principios de control científico de la producción y capitalismo de bienestar. El crecimiento de la compañía se extendió por Zlín (en la actual República Checa), su pueblo de nacimiento, y la transformó en una moderna ciudad jardín industrial capaz de satisfacer las necesidades tanto de una población en alza como de la propia empresa. Como reacción a la crisis de 1929, Bata inició una estrategia de descentralización y expansión internacional caracterizada por el proyecto y construcción de modernas ciudades industriales que replicaron el modelo de Zlín por el mundo. Esta tesis es un estudio exhaustivo de estas ciudades: las razones detrás del proyecto, su diseño, y su condición post-industrial; es un estudio comparativo que se ha servido de trabajo de campo, documentación fotográfica, entrevistas y materiales de archivo para explicar la lógica detrás del proyecto de Bata, documentar el diseño e implementación de tal modelo en múltiples contextos y geografías, y valorar el legado urbano de esta empresa. Finalmente, la investigación evalúa qué podrían aprender las disciplinas del diseño y otras partes implicadas de una síntesis completa de la historia y el urbanismo de las ciudades satélite de Bata, en lo relativo a la reinvención y sostenibilidad de proyectos contemporáneos de la industria en geografías en desarrollo.

Adults'Education and Agricultural Innovation: A Social Learning Approach

Social learning processes can be the basis of a method of agricultural innovation that involves expert and empirical knowledge. In this sense, the objective of this study was to determine the effectiveness and sustainability of an innovation process, understood as social learning, in a group of small farmers in the southern highlands of Peru. Innovative proposals and its permanence three years after the process finished were evaluated. It was observed that innovation processes generated are maintained over time; however, new innovations are not subsequently generated. We conclude that adult learning processes and innovation based on social learning are more effective and sustainable; however, the farmers internalization in innovation processes is given longer term.

Comparison of the ion channel characteristics of proapoptotic BAX and antiapoptotic BCL-2

The BCL-2 family of proteins is composed of both pro- and antiapoptotic regulators, although its most critical biochemical functions remain uncertain. The structural similarity between the BCL-XL monomer and several ion-pore-forming bacterial toxins has prompted electrophysiologic studies. Both BAX and BCL-2 insert into KCl-loaded vesicles in a pH-dependent fashion and demonstrate macroscopic ion efflux. Release is maximum at ≈pH 4.0 for both proteins; however, BAX demonstrates a broader pH range of activity. Both purified proteins also insert into planar lipid bilayers at pH 4.0. Single-channel recordings revealed a minimal channel conductance for BAX of 22 pS that evolved to channel currents with at least three subconductance levels. The final, apparently stable BAX channel had a conductance of 0.731 nS at pH 4.0 that changed to 0.329 nS when shifted to pH 7.0 but remained mildly Cl− selective and predominantly open. When BAX-incorporated lipid vesicles were fused to planar lipid bilayers at pH 7.0, a Cl−-selective (PK/PCl = 0.3) 1.5-nS channel displaying mild inward rectification was noted. In contrast, BCL-2 formed mildly K+-selective (PK/PCl = 3.9) channels with a most prominent initial conductance of 80 pS that increased to 1.90 nS. Fusion of BCL-2-incorporated lipid vesicles into planar bilayers at pH 7.0 also revealed mild K+ selectivity (PK/PCl = 2.4) with a maximum conductance of 1.08 nS. BAX and BCL-2 each form channels in artificial membranes that have distinct characteristics including ion selectivity, conductance, voltage dependence, and rectification. Thus, one role of these molecules may include pore activity at selected membrane sites.

Receptors for oxidized low-density lipoprotein on elicited mouse peritoneal macrophages can recognize both the modified lipid moieties and the modified protein moieties: Implications with respect to macrophage recognition of apoptotic cells

It has been shown previously that the binding of oxidized low-density lipoprotein (OxLDL) to resident mouse peritoneal macrophages can be inhibited (up to 70%) by the apoprotein B (apoB) isolated from OxLDL, suggesting that macrophage recognition of OxLDL is primarily dependent on its modified protein moiety. However, recent experiments have demonstrated that the lipids isolated from OxLDL and reconstituted into a microemulsion can also strongly inhibit uptake of OxLDL (up to 80%). The present studies show that lipid microemulsions prepared from OxLDL bind to thioglycollate-elicited macrophages at 4°C in a saturable fashion and inhibit the binding of intact OxLDL and also of the apoB from OxLDL. Reciprocally, the binding of the OxLDL-lipid microemulsions was strongly inhibited by intact OxLDL. A conjugate of synthetic 1-palmitoyl 2(5-oxovaleroyl) phosphatidylcholine (an oxidation product of 1-palmitoyl 2-arachidonoyl phosphatidylcholine) with serum albumin, shown previously to inhibit macrophage binding of intact OxLDL, also inhibited the binding of both the apoprotein and the lipid microemulsions prepared from OxLDL. Finally, a monoclonal antibody against oxidized phospholipids, one that inhibits binding of intact OxLDL to macrophages, also inhibited the binding of both the resolubilized apoB and the lipid microemulsions prepared from OxLDL. These studies support the conclusions that: (i) at least some of the macrophage receptors for oxidized LDL can recognize both the lipid and the protein moieties; and (ii) oxidized phospholipids, in the lipid phase of the lipoprotein and/or covalently linked to the apoB of OxLDL, likely play a role in that recognition.

Cultural variation in Africa: role of mechanisms of transmission and adaptation.

Cultural inheritance can be considered as a mechanism of adaptation made possible by communication, which has reached its greatest development in humans and can allow long-term conservation or rapid change of culturally transmissible traits depending on circumstances and needs. Conservativeness/flexibility is largely modulated by mechanisms of sociocultural transmission. An analysis was carried out by testing the fit of three models to 47 cultural traits (classified in six groups) in 277 African societies. Model A (demic diffusion) is conservation over generations, as shown by correlations of cultural traits with language, used as a measure of historical connection. Model B (environmental adaptation) is measured by correlation to the natural environment. Model C (cultural diffusion) is the spread to neighbors by social contact in an epidemic-like fashion and was tested by measuring the tightness of geographic clustering of the traits. Most traits examined, in particular those affecting family structure and kinship, showed great conservation over generations, as shown by the fit of model A. They are most probably transmitted by family members. This is in agreement with the theoretical demonstration that cultural transmission in the family (vertical) is the most conservative one. Some traits show environmental effects, indicating the importance of adaptation to physical environment. Only a few of the 47 traits showed tight geographic clustering indicating that their spread to nearest neighbors follows model C, as is usually the case for transmission among unrelated people (called horizontal transmission).

Understanding the Leadership Capacity and Practice of Assistant Principals

The purpose of this study was to explore the leadership capacities and practices of assistant principals. The research also sought to determine what relationships existed between capacity and practice and to see if there was a difference based on experience, context and personal characteristics. Since the majority of principals first serve as assistant principals, their work and experiences as assistant principals will have significant consequences (Kwan, 2009). The literature has long held and continues to challenge the notion that the role of assistant principal is adequate preparation for the principalship (Chan, Webb, & Bowen, 2003; Harris, Muijs, & Crawford, 2003; Kwan, 2009; Mertz, 2000; Webb & Vulliamy, 1995). Based on empirical findings, this study has affirmed the need to further research and refine the role of the assistant principal. The results indicate that in addition to strengths, there are explicit gaps and missed opportunities in the leadership practices of assistant principals that impact the potential for building a leadership pipeline within schools. The work of the assistant principal is characterized by a proliferation of duties rather than a strategic set of practices that support distributed leadership and sustainability.

X lberoamerican Conference on Phase Equilibria and Fluid Properties for Process Design (EQUIFASE): June 28-July 1, 2015 - Alicante (Spain): Book of Abstracts

The general purpose of the EQUIFASE Conference is to promote the Scientific and Technologic exchange between people from both the academic and the industrial environment in the field of Phase Equilibria and Thermodynamic Properties for the Design of Chemical Processes. Topics: Measurement of Thermodynamic Properties. Phase Equilibria and Chemical Equilibria. Theory and Modelling. Alternative Solvents. Supercritical Fluids. Ionic Liquids. Energy. Gas and oil. Petrochemicals. Environment and sustainability. Biomolecules and Biotechnology. Product and Process Design. Databases and Software. Education.

Syria and Lebanon: Diverging paths of state unsustainability. MEDPRO Technical Report No. 6/June 2011

Any analysis of the prospects for stability and sustainability in the states of Syria and Lebanon reveals the strong ties that exist between these two countries and the impact of external influences on their overall development. Their trajectories, while starkly divergent in terms of the challenges confronting them at present, converge on a path of long-term unsustainability. Lebanon is in the midst of yet another transition phase, triggered by the collapse of Hariri’s government in January 2011. The current situation might be described as one of deteriorating status quo; the state is performing poorly in terms of its delivery of fundamental public services and its institutional legitimacy is tenuous in the face of emerging para-state structures and latent (occasionally active) violence. In Syria, challenges to the sustainability of the state have evolved dramatically since the beginning of 2011, and are now nearing a tipping point. In view of the mounting unrest and violence in the country, the future prospects for its economic and political development are dim. More ominously, the risk of widespread conflict, with sectarian overtones, cannot be discounted.

European Energy and Industrial Policy Realigned: Risk or Opportunity for EU Eco-Innovation Strategy? IES Policy Brief Issue 2014/03/February 2014

Summary. Europe’s eco-innovation strategy fuses industrial, energy and environmental policy together in a concept for sustainable economic growth in the 21st century. The latest debate about high energy prices and their impact on energy-intensive industry shows, however, that the emphasis among the three policies has shifted over the years. Some adjustments are therefore necessary in order to reduce evolving inconsistencies. This Policy Brief describes the different dimensions of the EU’s industrial policy, and assesses the options available to policy-makers to increase the competitiveness of energy-intensive sectors without compromising the eco-innovation and sustainability agenda. If several key principles of the European sustainability agenda remain unchanged, strategic development is possible.

A potential case of attitude change: The Spanish spoken in the city of Malaga and used on social network sites

The Spanish spoken in the city of Malaga, as Andalusian Spanish in general, was in the past often times considered an incorrect, low prestige variety of Spanish which was strongly associated with the poor, rural, backward South of Spain. This southern Spanish variety is easily recognised because of its innovative phonetic features that diverge from the national standard, even though in the past years in the case of some features a convergence to the standard could be observed. Despite its low prestige the local variety of Spanish is quite often used on social network sites, where it is considered as urban, fashion and cool. Thus, this paper aims at analysing whether the Spanish used in the city of Malaga is undergoing an attitude change. The study draws on naturally occurring speech, data extracted from Facebook and a series of questionnaires about the salience, attitude and perception of the local variety of Spanish. The influence of the social factors age and gender is analysed, since they are both known to play a crucial role in many instances of language change. The first is of special interest, as during the Franco dictatorship dialect use was not accepted in schools and in the media. Results show that, on the one hand, people from Malaga hold a more positive attitude towards non-standard features used on social network sites than in spoken language. On the other hand, young female users employ most non-standard features online and unsurprisingly have an extremely positive attitude towards this use. However, in spoken Spanish the use and attitude of some features is led by men and speakers educated during the Franco dictatorship, while other features, such as elision of intervocalic /d/, elision of final /ɾ/, /l/ and /d/ and ceceo, are predominantly employed by and younger speakers and women. These features are considered as salient in the local variety and work as local identity markers.

The pleasures of human life; investigated cheerfully, elucidated satirically, promulgated explicitly, and discussed philosophically. In a dozen dissertations on male, female and neuter pleasures. Interspersed with various anecdotes, and expounded by numerous annotations.

Leather label on spine.

Digital Classics Outside the Echo-Chamber : Teaching, Knowledge Exchange and Public Engagement /

The international perspectives on these issues are especially valuable in an increasingly connected, but still institutionally and administratively diverse world. The research addressed in several chapters in this volume includes issues around technical standards bodies like EpiDoc and the TEI, engaging with ways these standards are implemented, documented, taught, used in the process of transcribing and annotating texts, and used to generate publications and as the basis for advanced textual or corpus research. Other chapters focus on various aspects of philological research and content creation, including collaborative or community driven efforts, and the issues surrounding editorial oversight, curation, maintenance and sustainability of these resources. Research into the ancient languages and linguistics, in particular Greek, and the language teaching that is a staple of our discipline, are also discussed in several chapters, in particular for ways in which advanced research methods can lead into language technologies and vice versa and ways in which the skills around teaching can be used for public engagement, and vice versa. A common thread through much of the volume is the importance of open access publication or open source development and distribution of texts, materials, tools and standards, both because of the public good provided by such models (circulating materials often already paid for out of the public purse), and the ability to reach non-standard audiences, those who cannot access rich university libraries or afford expensive print volumes. Linked Open Data is another technology that results in wide and free distribution of structured information both within and outside academic circles, and several chapters present academic work that includes ontologies and RDF, either as a direct research output or as essential part of the communication and knowledge representation. Several chapters focus not on the literary and philological side of classics, but on the study of cultural heritage, archaeology, and the material supports on which original textual and artistic material are engraved or otherwise inscribed, addressing both the capture and analysis of artefacts in both 2D and 3D, the representation of data through archaeological standards, and the importance of sharing information and expertise between the several domains both within and without academia that study, record and conserve ancient objects. Almost without exception, the authors reflect on the issues of interdisciplinarity and collaboration, the relationship between their research practice and teaching and/or communication with a wider public, and the importance of the role of the academic researcher in contemporary society and in the context of cutting edge technologies. How research is communicated in a world of instant- access blogging and 140-character micromessaging, and how our expectations of the media affect not only how we publish but how we conduct our research, are questions about which all scholars need to be aware and self-critical.