Design do vestuário infantil: as texturas como experiência tátil para crianças deficientes visuais

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

The suitability of the design of handbags to the tropical climate

This work encourages the exercise of consideration, observation and critical reading of the design of handbags and the relation to the conditions imposed by tropical climate. Our purpose is to highlight some critical and conceptual thoughts on the matter of the design of fashion accessories in Brazil, ergonomics and aesthetic-functional relation. Through physical concepts is possible to propose consistents solutions compatible with the reality of the costumers living on Brazilian coast.

Hierarchical Approach for Survivable Network Design

A central design challenge facing network planners is how to select a cost-effective network configuration that can provide uninterrupted service despite edge failures. In this paper, we study the Survivable Network Design (SND) problem, a core model underlying the design of such resilient networks that incorporates complex cost and connectivity trade-offs. Given an undirected graph with specified edge costs and (integer) connectivity requirements between pairs of nodes, the SND problem seeks the minimum cost set of edges that interconnects each node pair with at least as many edge-disjoint paths as the connectivity requirement of the nodes. We develop a hierarchical approach for solving the problem that integrates ideas from decomposition, tabu search, randomization, and optimization. The approach decomposes the SND problem into two subproblems, Backbone design and Access design, and uses an iterative multi-stage method for solving the SND problem in a hierarchical fashion. Since both subproblems are NP-hard, we develop effective optimization-based tabu search strategies that balance intensification and diversification to identify near-optimal solutions. To initiate this method, we develop two heuristic procedures that can yield good starting points. We test the combined approach on large-scale SND instances, and empirically assess the quality of the solutions vis-à-vis optimal values or lower bounds. On average, our hierarchical solution approach generates solutions within 2.7% of optimality even for very large problems (that cannot be solved using exact methods), and our results demonstrate that the performance of the method is robust for a variety of problems with different size and connectivity characteristics.

A review of antithrombotic therapy and the rationale and design of the randomized edoxaban in patients with peripheral artery disease (ePAD) trial adding edoxaban or clopidogrel to aspirin after femoropopliteal endovascular intervention.

Compared with the coronary setting, knowledge about antithrombotic therapies after endovascular treatment (EVT) is inadequate in patients with peripheral artery disease (PAD). Based on a review of trials and guidelines, which is summarized in this article, there is scant evidence that antithrombotic drugs improve outcome after peripheral EVT. To address this knowledge gap, the randomized, open-label, multinational edoxaban in patients with Peripheral Artery Disease (ePAD) study (ClinicalTrials.gov identifier NCT01802775) was designed to explore the safety and efficacy of a combined regimen of antiplatelet therapy with clopidogrel and anticoagulation with edoxaban, a selective and direct factor Xa inhibitor, both combined with aspirin. As of July 2014, 203 patients (144 men; mean age 67 years) from 7 countries have been enrolled. These patients have been allocated to once-daily edoxaban [60 mg for 3 months (or 30 mg in the presence of factors associated with increased exposure)] or clopidogrel (75 mg/d for 3 months). All patients received aspirin (100 mg/d) for the 6-month duration of the study. The primary safety endpoint is major or clinically relevant nonmajor bleeding; the primary efficacy endpoint is restenosis or reocclusion at the treated segment(s) measured at 1, 3, and 6 months using duplex ultrasound scanning. All outcomes will be assessed and adjudicated centrally in a masked fashion. The ePAD study is the first of its kind to investigate a combined regimen of antiplatelet therapy and anticoagulation through factor Xa inhibition with edoxaban.

Functional and environmental design of detached, low crest level breakwaters

In this article we research the design of detached breakwaters, a type of coastal defence work designed to combat erosion on beaches in a stable, sustainable fashion. Our aim is to formulate a functional and environmental (nonstructural) method of design that defines the fundamental characteristics of a detached breakwater as a function of the desired effect on the coast whilst meeting social demands and preserving or improving the quality of the littoral environment. We aim to make this method generally applicable by considering relations between variables of different natures (climatic, geomorphologic, and geometric) influencing the changes experienced on the coast after the detached breakwater has been built. We carried out the study of the relations between the different variables on the data from 19 actual, existing detached breakwaters on the Spanish Mediterranean coastline, and we followed a methodology based on the implementation of nondimensional monomials and on a search for relations of dependency between them. Finally, we discussed the results obtained and came up with a proposal for a design method that uses some of the graphic relations found between the variables studied and that achieves the main objective. For example, a case of a detached breakwater’s geometric presizing is solved as a practical demonstration of how the method is applied. La investigación que se presenta en este artículo aborda el diseño de los diques exentos, por constituir estos un tipo de obras de defensa costera con el que poder luchar de una forma estable y sostenible contra muchos de los problemas de erosión que existen en las playas. El objetivo principal de este trabajo es la formulación de un método de diseño funcional y ambiental (no estructural) que permita definir las características fundamentales de un dique exento en función del efecto que se quiera inducir en la costa, satisfaciendo las demandas sociales y preservando o mejorando la calidad del medio ambiente litoral. Además, se busca la aplicabilidad general del método mediante la consideración de relaciones entre variables de distinta naturaleza (climáticas, geomorfológicas y geométricas) que tienen influencia en los cambios que se experimentan en la costa tras la construcción del dique exento. El estudio de las relaciones entre las distintas variables se realiza sobre los datos de una base de diecinueve diques exentos reales, existentes en el litoral mediterráneo español, y sigue una metodología basada en el planteamiento de monomios adimensionales y en la búsqueda de relaciones de dependencia entre ellos. Finalmente, la discusión de los resultados obtenidos conduce a la propuesta de un método de diseño que utiliza algunas de las relaciones graficas encontradas entre las variables estudiadas y con el que se consigue el objetivo principal anteriormente expuesto. Para demostrar la aplicación práctica del método se resuelve un caso de predimensionamiento geométrico de un dique exento a modo de ejemplo.

Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

The design of an agent to bend DNA.

An artificial DNA bending agent has been designed to assess helix flexibility over regions as small as a protein binding site. Bending was obtained by linking a pair of 15-base-long triple helix forming oligonucleotides (TFOs) by an adjustable polymeric linker. By design, DNA bending was introduced into the double helix within a 10-bp spacer region positioned between the two sites of 15-base triple helix formation. The existence of this bend has been confirmed by circular permutation and phase-sensitive electrophoresis, and the directionality of the bend has been determined as a compression of the minor helix groove. The magnitude of the resulting duplex bend was found to be dependent on the length of the polymeric linker in a fashion consistent with a simple geometric model. Data suggested that a 50-70 degrees bend was achieved by binding of the TFO chimera with the shortest linker span (18 rotatable bonds). Equilibrium analysis showed that, relative to a chimera which did not bend the duplex, the stability of the triple helix possessing a 50-70 degrees bend was reduced by less than 1 kcal/mol of that of the unbent complex. Based upon this similarity, it is proposed that duplex DNA may be much more flexible with respect to minor groove compression than previously assumed. It is shown that this unusual flexibility is consistent with recent quantitation of protein-induced minor groove bending.

Design and synthesis of potential antimicrobial agents

Tuberculosis is one of the most devastating diseases in the world primarily due to several decades of neglect and an emergence of multidrug-resitance strains (MDR) of M. tuberculosis together with the increased incidence of disseminated infections produced by other mycobacterium in AIDS patients. This has prompted the search for new antimycobacterial drugs. A series of pyridine-2-, pyridine-3-, pyridine-4-, pyrazine and quinoline-2-carboxamidrazone derivatives and new classes of carboxamidrazone were prepared in an automated fashion and by traditional synthesis. Over nine hundred synthesized compounds were screened for their anti mycobacterial activity against M. fortutium (NGTG 10394) as a surrogate for M. tuberculosis. The new classes of amidrazones were also screened against tuberculosis H37 Rv and antimicrobial activities against various bacteria. Fifteen tested compounds were found to provide 90-100% inhibition of mycobacterium growth of M. tuberculosis H37 Rv in the primary screen at 6.25 μg mL-1. The most active compound in the carboxamidrazone amide series had an MIG value of 0.1-2 μg mL-1 against M. fortutium. The enzyme dihydrofolate reductase (DHFR) has been a drug-design target for decades. Blocking of the enzymatic activity of DHFR is a key element in the treatment of many diseases, including cancer, bacterial and protozoal infection. The x-ray structure of DHFR from M. tuberculosis and human DHFR were found to have differences in substrate binding site. The presence of glycerol molecule in the Xray structure from M. tuberculosis DHFR provided opportunity to design new antifolates. The new antifolates described herein were designed to retain the pharmcophore of pyrimethamine (2,4- diamino-5(4-chlorophenyl)-6-ethylpyrimidine), but encompassing a range of polar groups that might interact with the M. tuberculosis DHFR glycerol binding pockets. Finally, the research described in this thesis contributes to the preparation of molecularly imprinted polymers for the recognition of 2,4-diaminopyrimidine for the binding the target. The formation of hydrogen bonding between the model functional monomer 5-(4-tert-butyl-benzylidene)-pyrimidine-2,4,6-trione and 2,4-diaminopyrimidine in the pre-polymerisation stage was verified by 1H-NMR studies. Having proven that 2,4-diaminopyrimidine interacts strongly with the model 5-(4-tert-butylbenzylidene)- pyrimidine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-imprinted polymers were prepared using a novel cyclobarbital derived functional monomer, acrylic acid 4-(2,4,6-trioxo-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-5- ylidenemethyl)phenyl ester, capable of multiple hydrogen bond formation with the 2,4- diaminopyrimidine. The recognition property of the respective polymers toward the template and other test compounds was evaluated by fluorescence. The results demonstrate that the polymers showed dose dependent enhancement of fluorescence emissions. In addition, the results also indicate that synthesized MIPs have higher 2,4-diaminopyrimidine binding ability as compared with corresponding non-imprinting polymers.

Design and designing:a critical introduction

Design and Designing provides a broad and critical understanding of what is essentially a practical subject. Designing today is less a craft and more a part of the knowledge economy. It's all about knowing how to acquire knowledge and how to apply it creatively. Design and Designing covers the design process, modelling and drawing, working with clients, production and consumption, sustainability, professional practice and design futures. Chapters are written by expert teachers and practitioners from around the globe, each presenting an accessible and engaging overview of their field of design. Every chapter is highly illustrated with a combination of images and information boxes, which extend or highlight key material. Each section concludes with a design project, a hands-on activity for the reader. Design and Designing covers the full spectrum of design types, from graphic communication to product design, from fashion to games design, setting every type in its aesthetic, ethical and social contexts. With this essential book, readers will learn from today's best practice and best thinking in design, they will develop a critical sense, and become the designers of tomorrow.

Design of Latent Thermal Energy Storage Systems

This dissertation documents the results of a theoretical and numerical study of time dependent storage of energy by melting a phase change material. The heating is provided along invading lines, which change from single-line invasion to tree-shaped invasion. Chapter 2 identifies the special design feature of distributing energy storage in time-dependent fashion on a territory, when the energy flows by fluid flow from a concentrated source to points (users) distributed equidistantly on the area. The challenge in this chapter is to determine the architecture of distributed energy storage. The chief conclusion is that the finite amount of storage material should be distributed proportionally with the distribution of the flow rate of heating agent arriving on the area. The total time needed by the source stream to ‘invade’ the area is cumulative (the sum of the storage times required at each storage site), and depends on the energy distribution paths and the sequence in which the users are served by the source stream. Chapter 3 shows theoretically that the melting process consists of two phases: “invasion” thermal diffusion along the invading line, which is followed by “consolidation” as heat diffuses perpendicularly to the invading line. This chapter also reports the duration of both phases and the evolution of the melt layer around the invading line during the two-dimensional and three-dimensional invasion. It also shows that the amount of melted material increases in time according to a curve shaped as an S. These theoretical predictions are validated by means of numerical simulations in chapter 4. This chapter also shows that the heat transfer rate density increases (i.e., the S curve becomes steeper) as the complexity and number of degrees of freedom of the structure are increased, in accord with the constructal law. The optimal geometric features of the tree structure are detailed in this chapter. Chapter 5 documents a numerical study of time-dependent melting where the heat transfer is convection dominated, unlike in chapter 3 and 4 where the melting is ruled by pure conduction. In accord with constructal design, the search is for effective heat-flow architectures. The volume-constrained improvement of the designs for heat flow begins with assuming the simplest structure, where a single line serves as heat source. Next, the heat source is endowed with freedom to change its shape as it grows. The objective of the numerical simulations is to discover the geometric features that lead to the fastest melting process. The results show that the heat transfer rate density increases as the complexity and number of degrees of freedom of the structure are increased. Furthermore, the angles between heat invasion lines have a minor effect on the global performance compared to other degrees of freedom: number of branching levels, stem length, and branch lengths. The effect of natural convection in the melt zone is documented.

A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.