Ekologiska kläder : En studie om varför konsumtionen av ekologiska kläder haft en svag ökning sett utifrån konsumenternas perspektiv

Syftet med denna studie är att förklara varför konsumtionen av ekologiska kläder haft en svag ökning sett utifrån konsumenternas perspektiv. För att kunna besvara syftet har en kvantitativ metod legat till grund för denna studie. Data har samlats in med hjälp av enkäter för att undersöka om det föreligger något samband bland konsumenter. För att kunna presentera ett mer djupgående resultat har den kvantitativa metoden kombinerats med en kvalitativ metod vid analys av data. Teorin i denna studie har använts som utgångspunkt för att bättre förstå konsumenternas köpbeteende samt betydelsen av varumärken. Studiens empiri består av den data som samlats in genom enkäter. I studies analys och diskussion har teorierna sedan tillämpats på den data som enkäterna genererat för att öka resultatets trovärdighet. I denna studie framkom att kvinnliga konsumenter i åldern 20-35 har låg kunskap om de konventionella klädernas påverkan på miljö och individ. Konsumenternas personliga behov värderas högre än socialt ansvarstagande och det som prioriteras högst vid köp av kläder är pris, design och kvalitet. Utbudet av ekologiska kläder är inte tillräckligt stort och de kläder som finns tillgängliga på marknaden saknar varumärkesimage och förknippas ofta med basplagg.

How initial vocational education and training (IVET) teachers in Sweden perceive their prospects of being able to prepare upper secondary school pupils for a future occupation

Vocational teachers in Swedish upper secondary schools are a heterogeneous category of teachers, connected to different types of trade. These teachers represent a broad set of trade skills varying in content and character. In their teacher role, they continue to wear the clothes, speak the language, share the culture and remain mentally in their former professions. Still, it is central that they keep up this contact to be able to school the pupils into the environment of the trade in question, but also to help them to understand what skills a profession demands. However, the individual teacher also has to distance himself from the negative elements in the culture of the profession: patterns and habits that, for various reasons, have to be broken or changed. This paper draws attention to the ways in which a group of vocational teachers, who were participants in a project that aimed to train unauthorized vocational teachers, expressed their ambitions to prepare the pupils for a future professional career. When collecting information, we used the degree dissertations they produced and discussed in seminars, and informal dialogues. The result shows that it is important that the instruction location resembles a real working site as far as possible. These places are more or less realistic copies of a garage, a restaurant kitchen, a hairdressing salon, and so on, in order to give the pupils a realistic setting for instruction. However, the fact that these simulated workplaces lack the necessary support functions that exist in a company creates problems, problems which make a lot of extra work for the teachers. Vocational teachers also have to instruct the pupil in the experienced practitioner’s professional skills and working situation, but the pupil herself/himself must learn the job by doing it in practice. Some vocational upper secondary programs lack relevant course literature and the businesses give little support. This also makes extra work for the teachers. Moreover, the distance between the vocational programs and the trainee jobs was experienced as being difficult to overcome. One reason seems to be differences between businesses and differing preconditions between small and big companies’ abilities to take care of these pupils. The upper secondary school vocational programs also play a role in cementing existing gender roles, as well as perpetuating class-related patterns on the labour market.

How initial vocational education and training (IVET) teachers in Sweden perceive their prospects of being able to prepare upper secondary school pupils for a future occupation

Vocational teachers in Swedish upper secondary schools are a heterogeneous category of teachers, connected to different types of trade. These teachers represent a broad set of trade skills varying in content and character. In their teacher role, they continue to wear the clothes, speak the language, share the culture and remain mentally in their former professions. Still, it is central that they keep up this contact to be able to school the pupils into the environment of the trade in question, but also to help them to understand what skills a profession demands. However, the individual teacher also has to distance himself from the negative elements in the culture of the profession: patterns and habits that, for various reasons, have to be broken or changed. This paper draws attention to the ways in which a group of vocational teachers, who were participants in a project that aimed to train unauthorized vocational teachers, expressed their ambitions to prepare the pupils for a future professional career. When collecting information, we used the degree dissertations they produced and discussed in seminars, and informal dialogues. The result shows that it is important that the instruction location resembles a real working site as far as possible. These places are more or less realistic copies of a garage, a restaurant kitchen, a hairdressing salon, and so on, in order to give the pupils a realistic setting for instruction. However, the fact that these simulated workplaces lack the necessary support functions that exist in a company creates problems, problems which make a lot of extra work for the teachers. Vocational teachers also have to instruct the pupil in the experienced practitioner’s professional skills and working situation, but the pupil herself/himself must learn the job by doing it in practice. Some vocational upper secondary programs lack relevant course literature and the businesses give little support. This also makes extra work for the teachers. Moreover, the distance between the vocational programs and the trainee jobs was experienced as being difficult to overcome. One reason seems to be differences between businesses and differing preconditions between small and big companies’ abilities to take care of these pupils. The upper secondary school vocational programs also play a role in cementing existing gender roles, as well as perpetuating class-related patterns on the labour market.

Collaboration Is the New Black

Orange may be the new black, but as I have seen only five minutes of that show, I can’t really use it here. Besides, based on the five minutes I saw, I would assume it is a series written by males. Not since the Victoria’s Secret catalog have I seen so many women wearing fewer clothes, or engaging in so many unmentionable acts. I’ll stop there because my Victorianism is showing, I’m sure.

Consumo para obtenção de status: estudo empírico entre meninas pré-dolescentes de São Luis do Maranhão

The consumption of goods from brands in vogue, which symbolize status, popularity, success and social distinction, among those from the same social group in a pre-teenage girls¿ environment, has been a topic for academic studies as well as the market, due to their relevant consumption power for the companies worldwide. This paper aims to check out the use of these goods by them in São Luís, in order to become popular, succesful and socially distinguished; and the relation of the consumption for status with the brand image consumed and the pre-teenage girl self image; how familiar with the goods and the brand they are; and their attitude concerning their qualities. The empirical metodology had two phases: a qualitative and a quantitative one. The first one started with a specific group of 8 (eight) pre-teenage girls from high and medium classes, with the purpose of collecting some basis in order to reinforce the theory once the hypothesis were elaborated and used to guide the quantitative research as well as to adapt some North American scales. In the second stage of the qualitative research, a survey was applied in a convenience sample of 300 (three hundred) pre-teenage girls from São Luís, all from the high, medium high and low classes. The main result showed the pre-teenage girls from São Luís consume goods and brands for status, so they could get prestige, success, and social distinction, however, they do not define themselves or judge the social status of those from their social group based only on the clothes they wear and the brands which indicate their consumption power. Some other status symbols are important too, like, housing, the family car, the neighborhood where they dwell, the parents¿ occupation; the school they go to, the long and straight hair, how correct they speak Portuguese and their holiday trips. Another result highlighted was the strong relation of the brand image with their self image in the consumption for status.

Um estudo empírico sobre a construção da identidade social do consumidor de toy art

O objetivo deste trabalho é compreender como os consumidores de Toy Art utilizam o seu bem para constituir a sua identidade social, além de explorar este relacionamento de consumo, investigando os fatores que desencadeiam o processo de extensão de si no Toy Art. A sustentação teórica deste trabalho se deu pelo aprofundamento dos temas já levantados anteriormente por Campbell & Barbosa (2006) e McCracken (2003), em seus estudos sobre cultura e consumo; Schouten & McAlexander (1995) em sua pesquisa sobre subculturas de consumo; Hall (2005), que expôs suas teorias sobre a formação da identidade no mundo moderno; Douglas & Isherwood (2004), que estudaram os rituais de consumo; Belk (1988), com suas pesquisas sobre a extensão do self. Este estudo é de caráter exploratório, e foi conduzido com entrevistas em profundidade com o intuito de deixar emergir os sentimentos e emoções dos respondentes, para uma melhor orientação na direção das análises dos dados obtidos. Os dados foram coletados junto a 14 consumidores de Toys, de ambos os sexos, com idades entre 19 e 38 anos, residentes nos estados de Belo Horizonte, Paraná, Rio de Janeiro, Rio Grande do Sul, São Paulo e o Distrito Federal, durante os meses de julho e agosto de 2009. Para atingir os objetivos propostos, o método de pesquisa adotado foi qualitativo, com priorização do sujeito e da subjetividade, utilizando-se uma forma interpretativa para a análise dos dados. Os resultados demonstraram que os consumidores de Toy Art utilizam o seu bem para constituir sua identidade social e como uma forma de diferenciação e expressão. A extensão de si se dá exatamente durante essa busca pelo incomum, por um bem que o distinga dos demais. Conclui-se o trabalho, fazendo-se recomendações gerenciais com o intuito de beneficiar e desenvolver a indústria deste segmento.

O consumidor brasileiro de marcas de luxo : uma descrição e segmentação psicográfica por valores

O campo desta dissertação é o Marketing aplicado às marcas de luxo, descrevendo e segmentando os consumidores das marcas de luxo de vestuário e acessórios em seus traços psicográficos. A psicografia é utilizada para entender os mercados e avaliar em profundidade os segmentos (Blackwell, Miniard, Engel, 2005), indo além das usuais variáveis demográficas. A psicografia utiliza características subjetivas dos consumidores, tais como estilo de vida, personalidade, atitude, atividades, interesses, valores (Tomanari, 2003). Aqui se utilizou, como traços psicográficos, os valores do consumidor. Valores são propriedades humanas que dificilmente mudam, sendo influenciadores do comportamento. Ademais, são em algum grau compartilhados pelos indivíduos que pertencem a uma mesma cultura e variam de acordo com as especificidades culturais (Hemzo, Silva, 2009). Dessa forma, os traços psicográficos baseados em valores são menos universais e mais necessários estudá-los dentro de uma cultura em particular (a brasileira, nessa dissertação). No Brasil, o consumo das marcas de luxo, a partir da década de 2000, teve diversas causas. As condições econômicas e a inserção no mercado global facilitaram a compra de produtos importados. Todavia, o fenômeno do luxo difere nos seus mercados tradicionais (França e Itália). Isso leva a considerar que, nos mercados emergentes, o luxo passa por outras definições e simbologias, por vezes divergentes daquelas dos países de origem das marcas. Logo, uma segmentação baseada nos traços psicográficos dos consumidores pode auxiliar a gestão dessas marcas no Brasil, o que essa dissertação aborda.

Social fabrics

Existing wearable computing research and indeed commercial products, have explored how to control phones and music players in pockets. They have typically relied on interaction via simple flexible button sensors. This thesis proposes, design and develops new ways of interacting which explore the potential of clothes, such as pulling or stretching. Its aim to present and demonstrate the value of embodied and intuitive inputs based on standard clothing elements such as zips, fasteners, beads, Velcro and magnets. Individual interactions for each are described and discussed before a final combination application, the MusicHoodie, which is developed to control an MP3 player. A simple usability test on this system reveals a range of interesting and promising results about which were the most acceptable and understandable inputs. This thesis closes with a discussion of the implications and contributions of the work it presents.

A vestimenta e a moda: uma análise da revista estilo

This research addresses the consumption of women's fashion, through an analysis of the contents of the Estilo magazine. This magazine is an licensing of American Instyle, directed at the female, published by Editora Abril in Brazil since 2002. To guide this research, in relation of the fashionable field, some relevants concepts and authors were worked, like Pierre Bourdieu, Gilda de Souza Melo, Georg Simmel, Gilles Lipovetsky among other fundamental to understanding both the consumption and fashion. Still in search of understanding the discourses that permeated the fashion world were done semi-structured interviews with two costume designers who work in two different shops specializing in fabrics in the Natal's city. Were analyzed Estilo magazines published from June 2008 to June 2009, relating to the data collected in interviews in order to understand how discourses are constructed and disseminated, becoming so efficient in the seduction of women's groups which is directed to achieve and consolidate the production of appropriate and acceptable form to wear

Efeitos do período e volume de aplicação na segurança dos tratoristas aplicando herbicidas na cultura de cana-de-açúcar (Saccharum spp.)

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar os efeitos do período e volume de aplicação na segurança da atividade de tratoristas aplicando herbicidas na cultura de cana-de-açúcar com o pulverizador de barra montado em trator e a eficiência de equipamentos de proteção individual (EPIs) e de uma cabina acoplada ao trator. As exposições dérmicas de 13 condições de trabalho foram avaliadas e analisadas estatisticamente por meio do delineamento inteiramente ao acaso e do esquema fatorial 3 x 2 x 2 + 1. O fator A foi a condição de exposição: 1) exposição dérmica potencial (EDP) - sem nenhuma medida de segurança; 2) exposição com cabina no trator (Cabina); e 3) exposição com as vestimentas (EPI). O fator B foi o volume de aplicação: 1) 200 L ha-1 e 2) 100 L ha-1; e o fator C foi o período de aplicação: 1) diurno e 2) noturno. Como testemunha foi avaliada a EDP do tratorista aplicando na atividade usual de 300 L de calda ha-1, no período diurno. As exposições dérmicas (EDs) aos herbicidas considerados nessas condições de trabalho foram estimadas por meio de dados substitutos das EDs avaliadas ao cátion Cu+2 adicionado como traçador nas caldas aplicadas. O pulverizador utilizado foi do modelo PJ 600, com barra de 12 m de comprimento e 24 bicos de jato plano TT 110 04 ou TT 110 02. As 13 condições de trabalho avaliadas foram classificadas como seguras (MS>1) para o tratorista aplicando os herbicidas glyphosate (48% i.a.), MSMA (48%), diuron (46,8%) + hexazinone (13,2%), clomazone (50%), sulfentrazone (50%), ametryne (50%), diuron (50%), isoxaflutole (75%), metribuzin (48%), 2,4-D (80,6%), ametryne (30%) + clomazone (20%), ametryne (73,25%) + trifloxysulfuron (1,85%) e tebuthiuron (80 %) e inseguras para o herbicida atrazine (50%), nos dois períodos e nos três volumes de aplicação, e ametryne (50%), na aplicação diurna e 100 L de calda ha-1. As aplicações noturnas e os volumes de aplicação reduzidos tornaram as condições de trabalho mais seguras, exceto para o atrazine. A eficiência dos EPIs para a aplicação de 300 L ha-1 variou de 69,5 a 89,3%, e a da cabina do trator variou entre 76,4 e 83,3%, em relação aos volumes reduzidos de 100 e 200 L ha-1.

Efeito da técnica de curtimento e do método utilizado para remoção da pele da tilápia-do-nilo sobre as características de resistência do couro

Um estudo foi realizado com o objetivo de avaliar os efeitos do método de remoção da pele do filé (com alicate e com máquina) e da técnica de curtimento (com ou sem sais de cromo, bioleather) sobre a resistência da pele de tilápia-do-nilo (Oreochromis niloticus). Foram retiradas as peles de 40 tilápias (450 g), 20 com uso de alicates e 20 com auxílio de máquina. Após o curtimento e a retirada dos corpos-de-prova, as peles foram encaminhadas a um laboratório aclimatizado (23ºC e 50% de umidade relativa do ar) para realização dos testes de resistência em dinamômetro EMIC, com velocidade de afastamento entre cargas de 100 ± 20 mm/mm. O método de retirada da pele do filé não afetou os resultados dos testes de tração e rasgamento progressivo. A pele retirada com a máquina apresentou elongação superior (88,48%) à removida com alicate (71,09%). Peles curtidas com sais de cromo (25,54 N/mm; 12,18 N/mm²) foram mais resistentes que as curtidas sem sais de cromo (bioleather) (13,11 N/mm; 9,89 N/mm²). Peles curtidas por estas técnicas (com cromo e bioleather) podem ser utilizadas na confecção de vestuários, pois as médias dos testes de tração, alongamento e rasgamento progressivo foram superiores a 9,80 N/mm², 60% e 14,72 N/mm, respectivamente, valores mínimos recomendados para couros curtidos ao cromo.

Úlceras de pressão: um estudo com pacientes de unidade de terapia intensiva

To characterize patients according to gender, age category, internment time, diagnostical hypothesis and location of the pressure ulcer; to identify the susceptibility conditions, intrinsical and extrinsical factors present on ICU patients and to verify on the existence of association between the susceptibility conditions and the intrinsecal and extrinsecal factors on the occurrence of PU. Methods: It is a descriptive study, of longitudinal design of the panel type, with quantitative approach, performed on two ICU s of a private hospital located in Natal/RN, with 40 patients interned at these units. The data collection was performed on all three shifts through a structured observation and physical exam of the patients' skin form seeking to identify the presence of PU. Results: The greatest occurence of PU was on individuals of the male gender (70%) when compared to the female gender (30%), that difference being statistically significant (p=0,0267), with the male gender presenting 4,3 times greater chance of developing PU than the female; the predominant age category was from 60 years of age on (85%), 60,0% presented 1 to 2 PU s after 7 (seven) days of permanence in the ICU s, the predominant diagnostical hypothesis on the patients with PU were the respiratory diseases (42,3%) and the most frequent locations of PU were the sacral region (40,0%) and heels (36,0%). 25 PU s of stage I were diagnosed on 50,0% of the followed patients, with general incidence of 50,0% on both ICUs. from the 88 variables researched, 75 were identified on the patients from the study, being the predominant conditions (anemia, hypotension, leukocytosis, other diseases hypertension blood pressure, cardiac insuffience, pneumonia - and ansiolythic), the intrinsecal factors (diminished muscular strenght and/or mass, discrete edema, totally compromised mobile coordination and total inability for movement on the bed) and the extrinsecal factors (inadequate mattress type, permanence on a single position for >2 hours, shearing/friction force, bed clothes with folds that leave marks on the body, pressure force) predominated on patients with PU. The male gender variables (p=0,0267,OR=4,3), sedation (p=0,0006,OR=4,1), psychomotive agitation (p=0,0375,OR=5,8) and leukocytosis (p=0,0285,OR=5,0) presented a significant statistical diference when analyzed independently. We verified an association of 17,3%, statistically significant (p=0,0384), between the susceptibility conditions (anemia, leukocytosis and hypotension), the intrinsecal factors (age equal or above 60 years, diminished/absent pain sensibility and smooth, fine or delicate skin) and the extrinsecal factors (inadequate mattress, pressure forces, shearing/friction force, permanence on a single position for more than 2 hours, elevation between 30 to 45 degrees and inadequate bed clothes' conditions), with a chance ratio of 4,6 times the risk of occurrence of PU on the patients that presented the referred association. Conclusion: The incidence of PU detected on the ICU-interned patients was high and we made evident the existence of association between the susceptibility conditions, the intrinsecal and extrinsecal factors on the occurrence of PU s on the ICUinterned patients, and thus we accept the alternative hypothesis proposed on the study

A engenharia simultânea e o perfil da indústria de confecção da grande Natal/RN utilizando as ferramentas CAD/PDM e ERP

This work presents the research carried through in the industrial segment of confection of clothes of the Great Natal whose objective is to show the profile, enterprise and technological management as also the use of simultaneous engineering in the development of products. The research approaches two studies. The first one presents the current picture of the companies, synthesized through twelve variable. As, through fifteen variable it shows to the level of use of Simultaneous Engineering in the Development of Products and its amplitude in relation to the Integrated Management using tools CAD, PDM and ERP (Computer Aided Design, Product Management Date, Enterprise Resource Planning). The integration of these systems acts aiming the reduction of the cost and the development time of products. The reached results indicate that simultaneous engineering is a competitive advantage and becomes possible: to reduce the life cycle of the product, to rationalize the resources, to incorporate one high standard of the quality to the process and product as well as to personalize the product to take care of the global market. It is important to note that this work also is considered to contribute for the better understanding of the real companies situation of confection located at the Great Natal and its role in the economy of the State of the Rio Grande do Norte

Elegância e atitude: diferenças sociais e de gênero no mundo da moda

As distinções mais óbvias que podem ser observadas no mercado de moda são aquelas que dizem respeito às diferenças de gênero, independente da classe ou do grupo social a que se faça referência. Dentro desse universo podem ser encontradas duas noções, elegância e atitude, que condensam, a um só tempo, marcas de gênero, sociais e individuais. No caso da noção de elegância, o discurso, tanto quanto a roupa ou o próprio indivíduo, traduz sempre um ato de remissão a uma determinada concepção de ordem social, entendida como natural. As diferenças de gênero são relevantes, nesse contexto, porque demarcam posições sociais entendidas como naturais. Já a noção de atitude não cobra, necessariamente, uma ordem social e natural, mas uma ordem pessoal. O discurso e a roupa traduzem um caráter individualista, supondo ser o indivíduo quem imprime um sentido a sua inserção social, ainda que eventual ou momentânea. Nesse contexto, na maior parte das vezes, o individualismo ganha expressão através de uma linguagem estruturada como se não tivesse gênero.

Processos sócio-ambientais relacionados às situações de degradação na região do Rio Doce, Natal/RN

Natal is a medium-sized coastal city (800.000 inhabitants), capital of the State of Rio Grande do Norte, in the Northeast of Brazil. According to statistics published by the IBGE (2000), the area of Natal that stretches from Redinha to Lagoa Azul holds about 12% of the municipal population. Part of this area is bordered by a watercourse, the Rio Doce, which has been afflicted by a range of socio-environmental problems over the years. This study was carried out with the aims of 1) identifying the socio-environmental processes related to urban expansion, with an emphasis on those causing environmental degradation in this region; b) analysing the perception of the target population in relation to the environment it occupies; and c) determining the socioeconomic profile of the local residents and the sanitary facilities available to them. A survey was carried out by conducting interviews and completing questionnaires with the residents to assess the situation both qualitatively and quantitatively in the communities of Caiana, Pajussara Sítio, Gramoré Povoado and Gramoré Sítio, as well as by conducting bibliographical and documentary research. It was discovered that the sanitary conditions of the riverside dwellers are precarious and only 1% of the houses in the suburbs mentioned are connected to the public sewers. It was established that the Rio Doce is intensively exploited through the extraction of sand for the building trade, irrigation of riverside vegetable plots and use of the water for bathing, washing of clothes and leisure. It was also found that about 40% of the population resident in this area has migrated from the rural zone, which is one of the factors rendering it difficult for them to adapt to the urban setting. Such information can be of use to the authorities in the environmental planning of these districts and their sustainable development