Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography

Background/purpose The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. Methods In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. Results The mean diameter of the medulla was 29 +/- 7 mu m and the hair diameter was 122 +/- 16 mu m in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 mu m at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. Conclusion It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.

In vitro safety assessment of papain on human skin: A qualitative Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) study

Papain is a thiol proteolytic enzyme widely used in dermatology that found applications in wound treatment. Recently, papain was also used as absorption enhancer which can modify the peptide/ protein material in the bilayer domain. We investigated papain safety using human skin that was exposed to papain in vitro at different times: 4, 24 and 48 hours. The samples were examined using Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) to study of the mechanisms involved in enhancer-skin interaction. After 24 hours, changes occurred in corneosomes. However, samples of 48 hours did not show major changes in agreement with the control. These findings indicated that papain could be used safely onto the skin.

In Vitro Colonic Fermentation and Glycemic Response of Different Kinds of Unripe Banana Flour

This work aimed to study the in vitro colonic fermentation profile of unavailable carbohydrates of two different kinds of unripe banana flour and to evaluate their postprandial glycemic responses. The unripe banana mass (UBM), obtained from the cooked pulp of unripe bananas (Musa acuminata, Nanico variety), and the unripe banana starch (UBS), obtained from isolated starch of unripe banana, plantain type (Musa paradisiaca) in natura, were studied. The fermentability of the flours was evaluated by different parameters, using rat inoculum, as well as the glycemic response produced after the ingestion by healthy volunteers. The flours presented high concentration of unavailable carbohydrates, which varied in the content of resistant starch, dietary fiber and indigestible fraction (IF). The in vitro colonic fermentation of the flours was high, 98% for the UBS and 75% for the UBM when expressed by the total amount of SCFA such as acetate, butyrate and propionate in relation to lactulose. The increase in the area under the glycemic curve after ingestion of the flours was 90% lower for the UBS and 40% lower for the UBM than the increase produced after bread intake. These characteristics highlight the potential of UBM and UBS as functional ingredients. However, in vivo studies are necessary in order to evaluate the possible benefic effects of the fermentation on intestinal health.

Production of a collagenase from Candida albicans URM3622

Culture conditions (pH, time, temperature, inoculum size, orbital agitation speed and substrate concentration) for an extracellular collagenase produced by Candida albicans URM3622 were studied using three experimental designs (one 2(6-2) fractionary factorial and two 2(3) full factorial). The analysis of the 2(6-2) fractionary design data indicated that agitation speed and substrate concentration had the most significant effect on collagenase production. Based on these results, two successive 2(3) full factorial design experiments were run in which the effects of substrate concentration, orbital agitation speed and pH were further studied. These two sets of experiments showed that all variables chosen were significant for the enzyme production, with the maximum collagenolytic activity of 6.8 +/- 0.4 U achieved at pH 7.0 with an orbital agitation speed of 160 rpm and 2% substrate concentration. Maximum collagenolytic activity was observed at pH 8.2 and 45 degrees C. The collagenase was stable within a pH range of 7.2-8.2 and over a temperature range of 28-45 degrees C. These results clearly indicate that C. albicans URM3622 is a potential resource for collagenase production and could be of interest for pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industry. Crown Copyright (C) 2008 Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A Validated Reverse-phase HPLC Analytical Method for the Quantification of Phenolic Compounds in Baccharis dracunculifolia

Introduction - Baccharis dracunculifolia, which has great potential for the development of new phytotherapeutic medicines, is the most important botanical source of the southeastern Brazilian propolis, known as green propolis on account of its color. Objective - To develop a reliable reverse-phase HPLC chromatographic method for the analysis of phenolic compounds in both B. dracunculifolia raw material and its hydroalcoholic extracts. Methodology - The method utilised a C(18) CLC-ODS (M) (4.6 x 250 mm) column with nonlinear gradient elution and UV detection at 280 nm. A procedure for the extraction of phenolic compounds using aqueous ethanol 90%, with the addition of veratraldehyde as the internal standard, was developed allowing the quantification of 10 compounds: caffeic acid, coumaric acid, ferulic acid, cinnamic acid, aromadendrin-4`-methyl ether, isosakuranetin, drupanin, artepillin C, baccharin and 2,2-dimethyl-6-carboxyethenyl-2H-1-benzopyran acid. Results - The developed method gave a good detection response with linearity in the range 20.83-800 mu g/mL and recovery in the range 81.25-93.20%, allowing the quantification of the analysed standards. Conclusion - The method presented good results for the following parameters: selectivity, linearity, accuracy, precision, robustness, as well as limit of detection and limit of quantitation. Therefore, this method could be considered as an analytical tool for the quality control of B. dracunculifolia raw material and its products in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. Copyright (C) 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods

Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Methods: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers` forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4-week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter (R), Corneometer (R) and Cutometer (R), respectively. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4-week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. Conclusion: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect-improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.

A simple analysis of the changes during evaporation of a commercial emulsion of unknown composition

Optical microscopy and centrifugation were used to observe the Structural changes during evaporation of a commercial skin lotion of unknown composition. The degree of evaporation was determined from the changed weight of a microscope slide with the emulsion on a defined area and thickness, the evaporation loss versus time being measured by a balance under an infrared lamp. The results revealed not only which parts of the emulsion were most prone to evaporation without chemical analysis, but also gave surprising information as to which kind of structures would appear after extensive evaporation. The importance of these changes for the action of a skin lotion is briefly discussed.

Validation of a gas chromatographic method to quantify sesquiterpenes in copaiba oils

Copaifera species (Leguminoseae) are popularly known as ""copaiba"" or ""copaiva"". The oleoresins obtained from the trunk of these species have been extensively used in folk medicine and are commercialized in Brazil as crude oil and in several pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. This work reports a complete validated method for the quantification of beta-caryophyllene, alpha-copaene, and alpha-humulene in distinct copaiba oleoresins available commercially. Thus, essential oil samples (100 mu L) were dissolved in 20 mL of hexanes containing internal standard (1,2,4,5-tetramethylbenzene, 3.0 mM) in a 25 mL glass flask. A 1 mu L aliquot was injected into the GC-FID system. A fused-silica capillary column HP-5, coated with 5% phenylmethylsiloxane was used for this study. The developed method gave a good detection response with linearity in the range of 0.10-18.74 mM. Limits of detection and quantitation variety ranged between 0.003 and 0.091 mM. beta-Caryophyllene, alpha-copaene, and alpha-humulene were recovered in a range from 74.71% to 88.31%, displaying RSD lower than 10% and relative errors between -11.69% and -25.30%. Therefore, this method could be considered as an analytical tool for the quality control of different Copaifera oil samples and its products in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

Accelerated Stability and Moisturizing Capacity of Emulsions Presenting Lamellar Gel Phase Obtained from Brazilian Natural Raw Material

Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing gel phase were developed with cupuassu and/or cocoa butter from Brazilian ecosystem. They were subjected to storage advanced stability tests (SAST) and to in vivo corneometry evaluation. The evaluated emulsions showed great performance in the evaluated conditions considering that no significant variation was observed. The moisturizing potential was advantageous even without the moisturizing active. The formulation was considered a good cosmetic moisturizing cream and a promise as a drug carrier.

Analysis of the Phase Changes During Evaporation of Emulsions with Different Oil Phases

Emulsions surfer alterations in their microstructure after applied on the skin, because of the interaction with skin constituents and mainly by the evaporation of volatile components. These alterations are not even considered by cosmetic formulators, but they are extremely important because they can act on formulation stability, on delivery and on permeation of actives and also on the ability to build the occlusive film, responsible for skin`s moisturization. This research studied the phase changing during evaporation of emulsions made with three different oil phase: mineral oil, avocado oil, and isocethyl/stearoil stearate, as a function of the decrease on water ratio, using phase diagrams and evaporation test. It was observed the formation of liquid crystalline phases and their transition along the evaporation path for emulsions with the three different oil phases. It was also observed that these transitions occurred in different water ratios.

Development of a dietary supplement database

Data describing the composition of dietary supplements are not readily available to the public health community. As a result, intake from dietary supplements is generally not considered in most dietary surveys and, hence, little is known about the significance of supplement intake in relation to total diet or disease risk. To enable a more comprehensive analysis of dietary data, a database of the composition of various dietary supplements has been compiled. Active ingredients of all dietary supplements sold in Australia are included in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG), maintained by the Therapeutic Goods Administration. Products included in the database were restricted to those vitamin, mineral and other supplements identified in dietary data collected from studies conducted in southeast Queensland and New South Wales (850 supplements). Conversion factors from ingredients compounds to active elements were compiled from standard sources. No account has been made for bioavailability, consistent with current practice for food composition databases. The database can be queried by ARTG identification number, brand, product title, or a variety of other fields. Expected future developments include development of standard formulations for use when supplements are incompletely specified, and expansion of products included for more widespread use.

Topical penetration of commercial salicylate esters and salts using human isolated skin and clinical microdialysis studies

Aims The penetration of active ingredients from topically applied anti-inflammatory pharmaceutical products into tissues below the skin is the basis of their therapeutic efficacy. There is still controversy as to whether these agents are capable of direct penetration by diffusion through the tissues or whether redistribution in the systemic circulation is responsible for their tissue deposition below the application site. Methods The extent of direct penetration of salicylate from commercial ester and salt formulations into the dermal and subcutaneous tissue of human volunteers was determined using the technique of cutaneous microdialysis. We also examined differences in the extent of hydrolysis of the methylester of salicylate applied topically in human volunteers and in vitro skin diffusion cells using full-thickness skin and epidermal membranes. Results The present study showed that whilst significant levels of salicylate could be detected in the dermis and subcutaneous tissue of volunteers treated with the methylsalicylate formulation, negligible levels of salicylate were seen following application of the triethanolamine salicylate formulation. The tissue levels of salicylate from the methylsalicylate formulation were approx. 30-fold higher than the plasma concentrations. Conclusion The absorption and tissue concentration profiles for the commercial methylsalicylate formulation are indicative of direct tissue penetration and not solely redistribution by the systemic blood supply.

Potential of Amaranthus cruentus BRS Alegria in the production of flour, starch and protein concentrate: chemical, thermal and rheological characterization

BACKGROUND: Amaranth is a little-known culture in Brazilian agriculture. Amaranthus cruentus BRS Alegria was the first cultivar recommended by Embrapa for the soil of the Brazilian scrubland. In order to evaluate the potential of this species in the production of flour, starch and protein concentrates, the latter products were obtained from A. cruentus BRS Alegria seeds, characterized and compared with the products obtained from the A. caudatus species cultivated in its soil of origin. RESULTS: The seeds of A. cruentus BRS Alegria furnished high-purity starch and flour with significant content of starch, proteins, and lipids. The starch and flour of this species presented higher gelatinization temperatures and formed stronger gels upon cooling compared with those obtained from the A. caudatus species. This is due to their greater amylose content and a difference in the composition of the more important fatty acids, such as stearic, oleic and linoleic acids, which indicates that they have greater heat stability. Sodium dodecyl sulfate-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis and differential scanning calorimetry revealed the presence of albumins, globulins, glutelins and prolamins in the protein concentrate, which was obtained as a byproduct of starch production. CONCLUSION: Amaranthus cruentus BRS Alegria has potential application in the production of flour, starch and protein concentrates, with interesting characteristics for use as food ingredients. (C) 2010 Society of Chemical Industry