SENSORY APPROACH TO MEASURE FRAGRANCE INTENSITY ON THE SKIN

Sensory analysis is a precise and descriptive measuring technique to quantify human responses to stimuli. Odor, one of these stimuli, is basically the result of the interaction between a chemical stimulus and the olfactory receptor system, which can be described using a number of different dimensions and measures through different sensory tests: threshold, intensity and quality. To measure fragrance performance on the skin, these parameters are very important, but the main attribute to be evaluated is substantivity, thus the importance of the sensory scale chosen to measure perception, discriminate different intensities and determine the substantivity of the fragrance. Some studies comparing the labeled magnitude scale (LMS) with other magnitude scales and their derivations showed that the use of the LMS scale to measure fragrance intensity could semantically understand the intensity of the stimulus. Tests using this scale confirmed the applicability and efficiency of the LMS. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The objective of this article is to review the techniques used to measure odor and fragrance intensities applied on the skin. The review shows general sensory techniques and their goals, the newest olfactory mechanism and its contribution to sensory evaluation and which attributes should be considered to measure odor. Substantivity/retentivity or longevity can be regarded as the most important attributes if you want to measure fragrance performance on the skin. Past studies showed different scales tested to measure odor, and some of them demonstrated that the labeled magnitude scale is very suitable to measure fragrance on the skin.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography

Background/purpose The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. Methods In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. Results The mean diameter of the medulla was 29 +/- 7 mu m and the hair diameter was 122 +/- 16 mu m in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 mu m at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. Conclusion It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.

Double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of a cream containing the Stryphnodendron adstringens (Martius) Coville bark extract for suppressing terminal hair growth

Background Excess of terminal hair can be defined as excessive hair that appears in male-like pattern in women. Some experts consider this condition as a result of an atypical relationship between levels of circulating androgens and sensitivity of androgen receptors in hair follicles to circulating androgens. Aims The aim of this research work was to evaluate the efficacy of a topical treatment for suppressing terminal hair growth of a cream containing 6.0% of the Stryphnodendron adstringens bark extract. Study design and subjects Study was randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled. Subjects with excess of terminal hair were randomized to placebo and to the active treatment (cream with 6.0% of the extract). Evaluation was performed before and after 6 months, and subjects were photographed in each time. Clinical examination was carried out with the same physicians and in accordance with the Ferriman-Gallwey (FG) score. Results Benefits of the cream containing S. adstringens bark extract was observed in 60.98% (P < 0.001) of the subjects. FG score changed from 4 to 3 in the placebo group compared to 4-2 in the active. The cream suppressed the terminal hair growth and diminished the number of terminal hair. Subjects also described the reduction of skin hyperpigmentation, folliculitis and acne. Adverse events were not verified by physicians or patients. Conclusions The cream with 6.0% of the S. adstringens bark extract was effective on the reduction and on the reversion of the terminal hair excess, being considered a new promissory product for such finality.

Influence of Urea, Isopropanol, and Propylene Glycol on Rutin In Vitro Release from Cosmetic Semisolid Systems Estimated by Factorial Design

Rutin, one of the major flavonoids found in an assortment of plants, was reported to act as a sun protection factor booster with high anti-UVA defense, antioxidant, antiaging, and anticellulite, by improvement of the cutaneous microcirculation. This research work aimed at evaluating the rutin in vitro release from semisolid systems, in vertical diffusion cells, containing urea, isopropanol and propylene glycol, associated or not, according to the factorial design with two levels with center point. Urea (alone and in association with isopropanol and propylene glycol) and isopropanol (alone and in association with propylene glycol) influenced significant and negatively rutin liberation in diverse parameters: flux (g/cm2.h); apparent permeability coefficient (cm/h); rutin amount released (g/cm2); and liberation enhancement factor. In accordance with the results, the presence of propylene glycol 5.0% (wt/wt) presented statistically favorable to promote rutin release from this semisolid system with flux = 105.12 8.59 g/cm2.h; apparent permeability coefficient = 7.01 0.572 cm/h; rutin amount released = 648.80 53.01 g/cm2; and liberation enhancement factor = 1.21 0.07.

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot`s Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972 +/- 0.004 to 28.064 +/- 2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system: the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnate L and P. lanceolato extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072 +/- 0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6 nm. (c) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Emulsified systems based on glyceryl monostearate and potassium cetyl phosphate: Scale-up and characterization of physical properties

introducing a pharmaceutical product on the market involves several stages of research. The scale-up stage comprises the integration of previous phases of development and their integration. This phase is extremely important since many process limitations which do not appear on the small scale become significant on the transposition to a large one. Since scientific literature presents only a few reports about the characterization of emulsified systems involving their scaling-up, this research work aimed at evaluating physical properties of non-ionic and anionic emulsions during their manufacturing phases: laboratory stage and scale-up. Prototype non-ionic (glyceryl monostearate) and anionic (potassium cetyl phosphate) emulsified systems had the physical properties by the determination of the droplet size (D[4,3 1, mu m) and rheology profile. Transposition occurred from a batch of 500-50,000 g. Semi-industrial manufacturing involved distinct conditions: intensity of agitation and homogenization. Comparing the non-ionic and anionic systems, it was observed that anionic emulsifiers generated systems with smaller droplet size and higher viscosity in laboratory scale. Besides that, for the concentrations tested, augmentation of the glyceryl monostearate emulsifier content provided formulations with better physical characteristics. For systems with potassium cetyl phosphate, droplet size increased with the elevation of the emulsifier concentration, suggesting inadequate stability. The scale-up provoked more significant alterations on the rheological profile and droplet size on the anionic systems than the non-ionic. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Physical, physicochemical and chemical characterization of turf, sulphur mud and fango for cosmetic application

Focusing on the therapeutic and cosmetic potentials of the thermal water, several processes were developed to achieve a raw material known as fango which presents in its constitution water, clay and organic soil. This research work aimed at characterizing turf, sulphur mud and fango from Araxa, MG, Brazil, through physical, physicochemical, inorganic and organic assessments for cosmetic and topical product proposes. The characterization permitted the determination of relevant parameters to suggest the efficacy (presence, of ions) and safety (absence of toxic metals) of those raw materials for cosmetic and pharmaceutical utilization.

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation or rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/ retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 +/- 0.0391 mu g rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 +/- 2.0 degrees C, 5.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C and 45.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.

Influence of storage temperature on cooling intensity of topical emulsions containing encapsulated menthol

The cooling intensity of topical emulsions added with encapsulated or free menthol was evaluated by a screened and trained panel recruited based on the American Society for Testing and Materials method. A sensory panel composed of 10 trained judges performed the evaluation of samples stored at 22 +/- 2C for 24 h and, after 28 days of storage, at 37.0 +/- 0.5C. The obtained data were analyzed by analysis of variance and Tukey`s test. The results showed an increase of cooling intensity as a function of encapsulated menthol concentration. The opposite was observed in samples added with free menthol, which may have caused sensory fatigue. Storage at 37 +/- 0.5C for 28 days had no impact on the cooling intensity of emulsions containing encapsulated menthol, demonstrating high stability and suggesting its application in cooling skin care products. In contrast, emulsions added with free menthol showed a drastic decrease of cooling intensity at 37 +/- 0.5C..

Biophysical techniques used to evaluate the stratum corneum

Assortments of biophysical methods are used to the study the stratum corneum morphology and dynamic with the objective to elucidate the correlation between its structure and functions. Among these methods, there are: X-ray diffraction, electron paramagnetic resonance, differential scanning calorimetry, Raman spectroscopy with Fourrier transform, infrared spectroscopy and photoacustic spectroscopy. In this manuscript, methods are presented and discussed in relation to the use indication, interpretation of results and advantages and limitations to the stratum corneum analysis.

Rutin association with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3: In vitro evaluation of the photoprotection effectiveness by reflectance spectrophotometry

There is a world tendency to the development of sunscreens possessing reduced concentration of UV filters and, yet, with high UVA-UVB protection. This research work proposes the development and in vitro efficacy evaluation of sunscreens containing rutin, an antioxidant flavonol, associated or not to UVA (benzophenone-3) and UVB (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) filters. Formulations were in vitro assayed by reflectance spectrophotometry with integrated sphere, regarding the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF), critical wavelength (nm) and UVA/UVB ratio. Rutin 0.1% w/w photoprotection efficacy presented dependent of the concentration and presence of the UVA and UVB filters, and it was verified synergism on the SPF elevation, from 7.34 +/- 0.24 to 9.97 +/- 0.18, when the flavonoid was associated with the filters in minimum concentrations. Isolated rutin exerted UVA protection superior to the formulation not added to UV filters and their associations.

In vitro safety assessment of papain on human skin: A qualitative Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) study

Papain is a thiol proteolytic enzyme widely used in dermatology that found applications in wound treatment. Recently, papain was also used as absorption enhancer which can modify the peptide/ protein material in the bilayer domain. We investigated papain safety using human skin that was exposed to papain in vitro at different times: 4, 24 and 48 hours. The samples were examined using Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) to study of the mechanisms involved in enhancer-skin interaction. After 24 hours, changes occurred in corneosomes. However, samples of 48 hours did not show major changes in agreement with the control. These findings indicated that papain could be used safely onto the skin.

Transformations of taste: Americanisation, generational change and Australian cultural consumption

Researchers within the field of cultural imperialism as well as the more recently developed globalisation paradigm have tended to dwell upon the economic or corporate dimensions of global cultural flows and have been largely indifferent to the domain of the everyday cultural tastes and forms of cultural consumption that exist in particular national contexts. This article seeks to redress this focus through an examination of one particular instance of cultural imperialism, the widely held belief in ?he Americanisation of Australian society. Using data from a major research project inquiring into Australian everyday culture the article focuses on the changes in cultural tastes and preferences that are evident in three generational cohorts: contemporary young adults, a segment of the 'baby-boom' generation now in middle age, and a group of older Australians born in the years following World War I and the 1920s. The article documents a trend in which overseas influences, particularly those originating from America, appear to be increasingly shaping Australians' tastes in a wide range of cultural domains. Nevertheless, despite these changes in cultural taste Australians of ail ages retain a strong sense of a distinctive national identity. Such findings have implications for an understanding of cultural globalisation as a process of hybridisation and intermixing.

Early neonatal morbidity and mortality in growth-discordant twins

Objective. To evaluate early neonatal morbidity and mortality in twin pregnancies with growth discordance. Design. Retrospective study. Setting. Tertiary teaching hospital, Sao Paulo, Brazil. Population. A total of 151 twin pregnancies managed and delivered at the Multiple Pregnancy Unit at Sao Paulo University Hospital between 1998 and 2004. Methods. Comparison between twin pregnancies with weight discordance 20% and pregnancies concordant for fetal weight. Cases with fetal death, abnormalities, twin-to-twin transfusion and delivery before 26 weeks or in another hospital were excluded. Outcome measures. Early neonatal morbidity (Apgar at 5 minutes 7, respiratory or neurological complications, infection, necrotizing enterocolitis, length of hospital stay) and mortality. Results. Forty (26.5%) pregnancies presented discordance 20% and 111 (73.5%) were concordant. In the discordant group, 75% of pregnancies had at least one growth restricted fetus (10th centile). In concordant twin pregnancies, monochorionic cases (22.5%) presented with lower gestational age (34.3 vs. 36.2 weeks), lower birthweight (2,067 vs. 2,334 g) and a longer period of hospital stay (5.5 vs. 3.0) compared to dichorionic concordant twins. No differences between monochorionic and dichorionic subgroups were observed in discordant twins. Pregnancies in which at least one baby was born with a birthweight below the 10th centile showed that discordant pregnancies had a lower gestational age at delivery (35.2 vs. 36.8 weeks) and a longer period of hospital stay (9 vs. 4 weeks) compared to concordant cases. Neonatal mortality was similar in discordant (3.7%) and concordant (4.5%) twins. Conclusion. Early perinatal morbidity is increased in twin pregnancies with birthweight discordance 20% only when associated with fetal growth restriction and low birthweight.