Open and closed-loop recycling of textile and apparel products

Textile waste is a significant contributor to landfill yet the majority of textiles can be recycled, allowing for the energy and fibre to be reclaimed. This chapter examines the open-loop and closed loop recycling of textile products with particular reference to the fashion and apparel context. It describes the fibres used within apparel, the current mechanical and chemical methods for textile recycling, LCA findings for each method, and applications within apparel for each. Barriers for more effective recycling include ease of integration into existing textile and apparel design methods as well as coordinated collection of post-consumer waste. The chapter concludes with a discussion of innovations that point to future trends in both open-loop and closed-loop recycling within the apparel industry.

Time-temperature histories of spherical food products during bulk forced-air precooling

A general mathematical model for forced air precooling of spherical food products in bulk is developed. The food products are arranged inline to form a rectangular parallelepiped. Chilled air is blown along the height of the package. The governing equations for the transient two-dimensional conduction with internal heat generation in the product, simultaneous heat and mass transfer at the product-air interface and one-dimensional transient energy and species conservation equations for the moist air are solved numerically using finite difference methods. Results are presented in the form of time-temperature histories. Experiments are conducted with model foods in a laboratory scale air precooling tunnel. The agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is found to be good. In general, a single product analysis fails to predict the precooling characteristics of bulk loads of food products. In the range of values investigated, the respiration heat is found to have a negligible effect.

Studies on glass transition and starch re-crystallization in wheat bread during staling using electrical impedance spectroscopy

Bread staling is a very complex phenomenon that is not yet completely understood. The present work explains how the electrical impedance spectroscopy technique can be utilized to investigate the effect of staling on the physicochemical properties of wheat bread during storage. An instrument based on electrical impedance spectroscopy technique is developed to study the electrical properties of wheat bread both at its crumb and crust with the help of designed multi-channel ring electrodes. Electrical impedance behavior, mainly capacitance and resistance, of wheat bread at crust and crumb during storage (up to 120 h) is investigated. The variation in capacitance showed the glass transition phenomenon at room temperature in bread crust after 96 h of storage with 18% of moisture in it. The resistance changes at bread crumb showed the starch recrystallization during staling.

Using the evolution of consumer products to inform design

The development of a new consumer product and its release to market is typically an expensive and risky process. It is estimated that up to 80% of all new products fail in the marketplace (Savoia, 2014). The consequences of failure can be ruinous for a manufacturer both financially and in terms of brand reputation. So even small improvements in success prediction have the potential to save money, effort and brand reputation. This paper proposes an approach where the history and evolution of a product is mapped and analyzed. The results of the analysis can then be used to inform design decisions. This paper will also demonstrate the similarities between biological evolution and the evolution of consumer products. Using the existing structure and terminology of biological evolution allows us to focus on the aspects of innovations that have led to success and those that have led to failure. This paper uses the case study of the wristwatch and its development over 100 years. The analysis of this leads to recommendations for contemporary “smartwatches.”

Acid-catalysed cyclisations: structures of novel products isolated in the reaction of 2-[3-(2,6-dimethoxyphenyl)but-2-enyl]-2-methylcyclopentane-1,3-dione with MeOH-HCl

Reaction of the title compound (1a) with anhydrous MeOH-HCl gave 2-endo-(2,6-dimethoxyphenyl)-2-exo-methyl-5-methylbicyclo[3.2.1]octane-6,8-dione (3a), 1,5,14-timethoxy-5,8-seco-6,7-dinorestra-1,3,5(10),9(11)-tetraen-17-one (4), 1,5-dimethoxy-5,8-seco-6,7-dinorestra-1,3,5(10),8,14-pentaen-17-one (5), and 3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2,7-dimethoxy-3,6-dimethyl-3,2,6-(13-oxopropan[1]yI[3]ylidene)-2H-1-benzoxocin (6). Structures assigned to compounds (3a), (4), and (6) are based on spectral data. The exo-tricyclic acetal structure (6) was further confirmed by the analysis of the 1H n.m.r. spectra of the isomeric alcohols (11) and (12), obtained by sodium borohydride reduction of (6).

Plant height affects Fusarium crown rot severity in wheat

Effects of plant height on Fusarium crown rot (FCR) disease severity were investigated using 12 pairs of near-isogenic lines (NILs) for six different reduced height (Rht) genes in wheat. The dwarf isolines all gave better FCR resistance when compared with their respective tall counterparts, although the Rht genes involved in these NILs are located on several different chromosomes. Treating plants with exogenous gibberellin increased FCR severity as well as seedling lengths in all of the isolines tested. Analysis of the expression of several defense genes with known correlation with resistance to FCR pathogens between the Rht isolines following FCR inoculation indicated that the better resistance of the dwarf isolines was not due to enhanced defense gene induction. These results suggested that the difference in FCR severity between the tall and dwarf isolines is likely due to their height difference per se or to some physiological and structural consequences of reduced height. Thus, caution should be taken when considering to exploit any FCR locus located near a height gene.

Interactions of natural products with β-lactoglobulins, members of the lipocalin family

Natural products constitute an important source of new drugs. The bioavailability of the drugs depends on their absorption, distribution, metabolism and elimination. To achieve good bioavailability, the drug must be soluble in water, stable in the gastrointestinal tract and palatable. Binding proteins may improve the solubility of drug compounds, masking unwanted properties, such as bad taste, bitterness or toxicity, transporting or protecting these compounds during processing and storage. The focus of this thesis was to study the interactions, including ligand binding and the effect of pH and temperature, of bovine and reindeer β-lactoglobulin (βLG) with such compounds as retinoids, phenolic compounds as well as with compounds from plant extracts, and to investigate the transport properties of the βLG-ligand complex. To examine the binding interactions of different ligands to βLG, new methods were developed. The fluorescence binding method for the evaluation of ligand binding to βLG was miniaturized from a quartz cell to a 96-well plate. A method of ultrafiltration sampling combined with high-performance liquid chromatography was developed to assess the binding of compounds from extracts. The interactions of phenolic compounds or retinoids and βLG were investigated using the 96-well plate method. The majority of flavones, flavonols, flavanones and isoflavones and all of the retinoids included were shown to bind to bovine and reindeer βLG. Phenolic compounds, contrary to retinol, were not released at acidic pH. Those results suggest that βLG may have more binding sites, probably also on the surface of βLG. An extract from Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kunze (black tea), Urtica dioica L. (nettle) and Piper nigrum (black pepper) were used to evaluate whether βLG could bind compounds from plant extracts. Piperine from P. nigrum was found to bind tightly and rutin from U. dioica weakly to βLG. No components from C. sinensis bound to βLG in our experiment. The uptake and membrane permeation of bovine and reindeer βLG, free and bound with retinol, palmitic acid and cholesterol, were investigated using Caco-2 cell monolayers. Both bovine and reindeer βLG were able to cross the Caco-2 cell membrane. Free and βLG-bound retinol and palmitic acid were transported equally, whereas cholesterol could not cross the Caco-2 cell monolayer free or bound to βLG. Our results showed that βLG can bind different natural product compounds, but cannot enhance transport of retinol, palmitic acid or cholesterol through Caco-2 cells. Despite this, βLG, as a water-soluble binding protein, may improve the solubility of natural compounds, possibly protecting them from early degradation and transporting some of them through the stomach. Furthermore, it may decrease their bad or bitter taste during oral administration of drugs or in food preparations. βLG can also enhance or decrease the health benefits of herbal teas and food preparations by binding compounds from extracts.

Mössbauer studies of the corrosion products of iron formed in aqueous ammonium nitrate solution

The products of corrosion reaction of electrolytic iron in 45% ammonium nitrate solution formed under various conditions of time, temperature and pH have been analysed mainly by Mössbauer spectroscopy, in combination with X-ray diffraction, infrared absorption and electron microscopy techniques. γ-Fe00H is found to be the major product of hydrolytic precipitation at pH > 5.6 while only α-FeOOH is formed at pH < 3.0. In the pH range 3.0 < pH < 5.0, α-Fe00H and ferrihydrite are both formed. However, once the nuclei of α-Fe00H are formed under low pH conditions, their growth is favoured even in the otherwise unfavourable slightly acidic medium, resulting in a hydrous α-Fe00H which has two distinct hyperfine fields at the 57Fe nucleus. Magnetite is always formed in the vicinity of the metal and its rate of formation on the surface increases with temperature. α-Fe203 is the major product of hydrolytic precipitation at temperatures >80C. The possible mechanisms for the formation of each of the corrosion products are discussed.

Genetic analysis of resistance to root-lesion nematode (Pratylenchus thornei) in wheat

The inheritance of resistance to root-lesion nematode was investigated in five synthetic hexaploid wheat lines and two bread wheat lines using a half-diallel design of F1 and F2 crosses. The combining ability of resistance genes in the synthetic hexaploid wheat lines was compared with the performance of the bread wheat line 'GS50a', the source of resistance to Pratylenchus thornei used in Australian wheat breeding programmes. Replicated glasshouse trials identified P. thornei resistance as polygenic and additive in gene action. General combining ability (GCA) of the parents was more important than specific combining ability (SCA) effects in the inheritance of P. thornei resistance in both F1 and F2 populations. The synthetic hexaploid wheat line 'CPI133872' was identified as the best general combiner, however, all five synthetic hexaploid wheat lines possessed better GCA than 'GS50a'. The synthetic hexaploid wheat lines contain novel sources of P. thornei resistance that will provide alternative and more effective sources of resistance to be utilized in wheat breeding programmes

Survey of Fusarium species associated with crown rot of wheat and barley in eastern Australia

Fusarium species associated with crown rot were isolated and identified from 409 wheat, barley or durum wheat crops from the eastern Australian grain belt between 1996 and 1999. Fusarium pseudograminearum was almost the only species isolated from crops in Queensland and New South Wales. F. pseudograminearum was also the most common species in Victoria and South Australia, but F. culmorum was frequently isolated in these states. F. culmorum accounted for more than 70% of isolates from the Victorian high-rainfall (> 500 mm) region and the South-East region of South Australia. F. culmorum comprised 18% of isolates from the Victorian medium-rainfall (350-500 mm) region, and 7% of isolates from each of the Victorian low-rainfall region and the Mid-North region of South Australia. F. avenaceum, F. crookwellense and F. graminearum were isolated very infrequently. The proportion of F. culmorum among isolates of Fusarium from districts in Victoria and South Australia was strongly correlated with climatic conditions around the end of the growing season, especially with rainfall in November.

Sustaining productivity of a Vertosol at Warra, Queensland, with fertilisers, no-tillage or legumes. 8. Effect of duration of lucerne ley on soil nitrogen and water, wheat yield and protein.

Soil nitrogen (N) supply in the Vertosols of southern Queensland, Australia has steadily declined as a result of long-term cereal cropping without N fertiliser application or rotations with legumes. Nitrogen-fixing legumes such as lucerne may enhance soil N supply and therefore could be used in lucerne-wheat rotations. However, lucerne leys in this subtropical environment can create a soil moisture deficit, which may persist for a number of seasons. Therefore, we evaluated the effect of varying the duration of a lucerne ley (for up to 4 years) on soil N increase, N supply to wheat, soil water changes, wheat yields and wheat protein on a fertility-depleted Vertosol in a field experiment between 1989 and 1996 at Warra (26degrees 47'S, 150degrees53'E), southern Queensland. The experiment consisted of a wheat-wheat rotation, and 8 treatments of lucerne leys starting in 1989 (phase 1) or 1990 (phase 2) for 1,2,3 or 4 years duration, followed by wheat cropping. Lucerne DM yield and N yield increased with increasing duration of lucerne leys. Soil N increased over time following 2 years of lucerne but there was no further significant increase after 3 or 4 years of lucerne ley. Soil nitrate concentrations increased significantly with all lucerne leys and moved progressively downward in the soil profile from 1992 to 1995. Soil water, especially at 0.9-1.2 m depth, remained significantly lower for the next 3 years after the termination of the 4 year lucerne ley than under continuous wheat. No significant increase in wheat yields was observed from 1992 to 1995, irrespective of the lucerne ley. However, wheat grain protein concentrations were significantly higher under lucerne-wheat than under wheat wheat rotations for 3-5 years. The lucerne yield and soil water and nitrate-N concentrations were satisfactorily simulated with the APSIM model. Although significant N accretion occurred in the soil following lucerne leys, in drier seasons, recharge of the drier soil profile following long duration lucerne occurred after 3 years. Consequently, 3- and 4-year lucerne-wheat rotations resulted in more variable wheat yields than wheat-wheat rotations in this region. The remaining challenge in using lucerne-wheat rotations is balancing the N accretion benefits with plant-available water deficits, which are most likely to occur in the highly variable rainfall conditions of this region.

Effective Use in Livestock Feeds of Mouldy and Weather-damaged Grain Containing Mycotoxins-Case Histories and Economic Assessments Pertaining to Pig and Poultry Industries of Queensland

Mould growth in field crops or stored grain reduces starch and lipid content, with consequent increases in fibre, and an overall reduction in digestible energy; palatability is often adversely affected. If these factors are allowed for, and mycotoxin concentrations are low, there are sound economic reasons for using this cheaper grain. Mycotoxins are common in stock feed but their effects on animal productivity are usually slight because either the concentration is too low or the animal is tolerant to the toxin. In Australia, aflatoxins occur in peanut by-products and in maize and sorghum if the grain is moist when stored. Zearalenone is found in maize and in sorghum and wheat in wetter regions. Nivalenol and deoxynivalenol are found in maize and wheat but at concentrations that rarely affect pigs, with chickens and cattle being even more tolerant. Other mycotoxins including cyclopiazonic acid, T-2 toxin, cytochalasins and tenuazonic acid are produced by Australian fungi in culture but are not found to be significant grain contaminants. Extremely mouldy sorghum containing Alternaria and Fusarium mycotoxins decreased feed conversion in pigs and chickens by up to 14%. However, E moniliforme- and Diplodia maydis-infected maize produced only slight reductions in feed intake by pigs and Ustilago- infected barley produced no ill effects. Use of these grains would substantially increase profits if the grain can be purchased cheaply.

The mycotoxins 4-deoxynivalenol, zearalenone and aflatoxin in weather-damaged wheat harvested 1983-1985 in south-east Queensland

A survey for various mycotoxins was carried out on samples of all wheat delivered to nine storage and marketing depots in south-eastern Queensland, selected as most likely to receive mycotoxin-contaminated grain. All wheat was surveyed during 1983, when the degree of weather damage was high. Samples of the poorest grade of wheat from these depots were also surveyed in 1984 and 1985. The surveys included all regions where head scab of wheat caused by Fusariurn graminearurn Schwabe Group 2 had been reported to occur at significant levels. 4-Deoxynivalenol was detected in nearly all pooled samples representing bulk wheat at concentrations ranging from traces of <0.01 up to 1.7 mg kg-1. The highest concentration of zearlenone detected in a pooled wheat sample was 0.04 mg kg-1. In a few samples representing individual wheat deliveries and with up to 2.8% by weight of pink grains, 4-deoxynivalenol concentrations ranged up to 11.7 mg kg-' and zearalenone up to 0.43 mg kg-l. Aflatoxins B,, B2, G1 and G2 were detected in only one pooled sample of wheat, at a total aflatoxin concentration of 0.003 mg kg-'. Ochratoxin A, sterigmatocystin and T-2 toxin were not detected. Higher concentrations of mycotoxins were found in the poorer grades of wheat.

Spectral and thermal sensing for nitrogen and water status in rainfed and irrigated wheat environments

Variable-rate technologies and site-specific crop nutrient management require real-time spatial information about the potential for response to in-season crop management interventions. Thermal and spectral properties of canopies can provide relevant information for non-destructive measurement of crop water and nitrogen stresses. In previous studies, foliage temperature was successfully estimated from canopy-scale (mixed foliage and soil) temperatures and the multispectral Canopy Chlorophyll Content Index (CCCI) was effective in measuring canopy-scale N status in rainfed wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) systems in Horsham, Victoria, Australia. In the present study, results showed that under irrigated wheat systems in Maricopa, Arizona, USA, the theoretical derivation of foliage temperature unmixing produced relationships similar to those in Horsham. Derivation of the CCCI led to an r2 relationship with chlorophyll a of 0.53 after Zadoks stage 43. This was later than the relationship (r2 = 0.68) developed for Horsham after Zadoks stage 33 but early enough to be used for potential mid-season N fertilizer recommendations. Additionally, ground-based hyperspectral data estimated plant N (g kg)1) in Horsham with an r2 = 0.86 but was confounded by water supply and N interactions. By combining canopy thermal and spectral properties, varying water and N status can potentially be identified eventually permitting targeted N applications to those parts of a field where N can be used most efficiently by the crop.