Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.

Synthesis and Study of Photophysical and Metal Ion Binding Properties of a Few Novel Semisquaraine and Croconaine Dyes

Photosciences & Photonics, Chemical Sciences & Technology Division, National Institute for Interdisciplinary Science & Technology

Thermal lens spectrum of organic dyes using optical parametric oscillator

The wavelength dependence of thermal lens signal from organic dyes are studied using dual beam thermal lens technique. It is found that the profile of thermal lens spectrum widely differ from the conventional absorption spectrum in the case of rhodamine B unlike in the case of crystal violet. This is explained on the basis of varying contribution of nonradiative relaxations from the excited vibronic levels.

Thermal lens spectrum of organic dyes using optical parametric oscillator

The wavelength dependence of thermal lens signal from organic dyes are studied using dual beam thermal lens technique. It is found that the profile of thermal lens spectrum widely differ from the conventional absorption spectrum in the case of rhodamine B unlike in the case of crystal violet. This is explained on the basis of varying contribution of nonradiative relaxations from the excited vibronic levels.

Low power optical phase conjugation in dyes embedded in polyvinyl alcohol films

Low power optical phase conjugation in polyvinyl alcohol films embedded with saturable dyes is reported. Phase conjugate reflectivity achieved is higher than that obtained in the case of similar gelatin films.

Studies on ASE, Lasing and NLO characteristics in Certain Laser Dyes

Observing the wide possibilities of fluorescent dyes, an exhaustive investigation is done in laser dyes mainly focusing on Coumarin 540 which has a very strong emission in the green region. The photophysics of the dye is studied in detail in a good number of solvent environments. The results of the amplified spontaneous emission and lasing behaviour in both dye solution and different polymer solid state matrices and the ptotostability of the these matrices are investigated using the photoacoustic technique and the same are also included in this thesis. The energy transfer behaviour in dye mixtures which could be utilized for laser studies and bio-analysis are also presented. The nonlinear characterization of Coumarin540 forms the last part of the experimental investigations presented in the thesis.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth

Price, profitability and employment in the handloom industry in kerala

The present study is on the nature, problems and prospects of the handloom industry in Kerala. The problems of the industry are mostly in the nature of low earnings of the workers, underutilisation of the existing capacity and low profit in its various sectors. The majority of the handloom co-operative societies are either dormant or facing liquidation. The income and employment of weavers are so pitiably low that they are living in utter poverty and starvation. Frequent price fluctuations of yarns, dyes and chemicals increase the cost of production and reduce the profitability. Consequently handloom fabrics are not able to compete with mill cloths and powerloom products. Accumulating the unsold stocks in the godowns of co-operative societies and with master weavers has become the practice of the day. Spinning mills in Kerala are producing only lower counts of yarns. S, handloom industry has to depend on textile mills in Tamil Nadu for higher counts of yarn. They create artificial scarcity and increase the prices exflorbitantly. Wage rates prevailing in Kerala are higher than those in Tamil Hadu. So rich master weavers are migrating to Tamil.Nadu and exporting the fabrics. under the label 'Kera1a Handlooms'. Governmental efforts to tackle the crisis by way of rebates and subsidies are found to be futile.

Fabrication And Parametric Measurements Of N2 Laser Pumped Dye Laser And Its Application To Energy Transfer Studies In Mixed Dyes

Eventhough a large number of schemes have been proposed and develoned for N9 laser ouined dye lasers the relatively low efficiency compelled the scientists to device new methods to improve the system efficiencs. Energy transfer mechanism has been shown to he a convenien tool for the enhancement of efficiency of dye lasers. Th p resent work covers a detailed study of the performance characteristics of a N2 laser pumped dye laser in the con— ventional mode and also, when pumped by the energy transfer mechanism. For .th.e present investigations a dye laser pumped by a'N2 laser (A4200 kw peak power) was fabricated. The grating at grazing incidence was used as the beam expanding device; A t its best performance the system was giving an output peak power of l5 kW for a 5 X lC"3H/l Rh—€ solution in methanol. T he conversion efficiency was 7.5; The output beam was having 3 divergence of 2 mrad and bandwidth o.9 A. Suitable modifications were suggested for obtaining better conversion efficiency and bandwidth.

A Study Of The Textile Industry In Kerala With Comparative Reference To Tamil Nadu

. The cotton mill industry is one of the important medium and large-scale industries in the State of Kerala. Due to the widespread development of the handloom industry in the State, there is an environment conducive to the growth of cotton spinning mills which produce yarn, the raw material required by the handloom industry. New spin— ing mills are being commissioned. But the performance of the existing cotton spinning and weaving mills in the State is not quite satisfactory. Hence an analysis has been carried out into the profitability and financial position of the industry in Kerala. The objective of the study is to make a financial analysis of the industry covering various aspects such as cost structure, productivity, asset structure, financial structure and working capital management.