The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia's mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world's fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer's role was to source and oversee the manufacture of 'knock-offs', or close copies of northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller and Walsh have commented on this practice.12 The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on both consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

Effect of CT electron density identification on Monte Carlo simulations of radiotherapeutic treatments

Introduction: The accurate identification of tissue electron densities is of great importance for Monte Carlo (MC) dose calculations. When converting patient CT data into a voxelised format suitable for MC simulations, however, it is common to simplify the assignment of electron densities so that the complex tissues existing in the human body are categorized into a few basic types. This study examines the effects that the assignment of tissue types and the calculation of densities can have on the results of MC simulations, for the particular case of a Siemen’s Sensation 4 CT scanner located in a radiotherapy centre where QA measurements are routinely made using 11 tissue types (plus air). Methods: DOSXYZnrc phantoms are generated from CT data, using the CTCREATE user code, with the relationship between Hounsfield units (HU) and density determined via linear interpolation between a series of specified points on the ‘CT-density ramp’ (see Figure 1(a)). Tissue types are assigned according to HU ranges. Each voxel in the DOSXYZnrc phantom therefore has an electron density (electrons/cm3) defined by the product of the mass density (from the HU conversion) and the intrinsic electron density (electrons /gram) (from the material assignment), in that voxel. In this study, we consider the problems of density conversion and material identification separately: the CT-density ramp is simplified by decreasing the number of points which define it from 12 down to 8, 3 and 2; and the material-type-assignment is varied by defining the materials which comprise our test phantom (a Supertech head) as two tissues and bone, two plastics and bone, water only and (as an extreme case) lead only. The effect of these parameters on radiological thickness maps derived from simulated portal images is investigated. Results & Discussion: Increasing the degree of simplification of the CT-density ramp results in an increasing effect on the resulting radiological thickness calculated for the Supertech head phantom. For instance, defining the CT-density ramp using 8 points, instead of 12, results in a maximum radiological thickness change of 0.2 cm, whereas defining the CT-density ramp using only 2 points results in a maximum radiological thickness change of 11.2 cm. Changing the definition of the materials comprising the phantom between water and plastic and tissue results in millimetre-scale changes to the resulting radiological thickness. When the entire phantom is defined as lead, this alteration changes the calculated radiological thickness by a maximum of 9.7 cm. Evidently, the simplification of the CT-density ramp has a greater effect on the resulting radiological thickness map than does the alteration of the assignment of tissue types. Conclusions: It is possible to alter the definitions of the tissue types comprising the phantom (or patient) without substantially altering the results of simulated portal images. However, these images are very sensitive to the accurate identification of the HU-density relationship. When converting data from a patient’s CT into a MC simulation phantom, therefore, all possible care should be taken to accurately reproduce the conversion between HU and mass density, for the specific CT scanner used. Acknowledgements: This work is funded by the NHMRC, through a project grant, and supported by the Queensland University of Technology (QUT) and the Royal Brisbane and Women's Hospital (RBWH), Brisbane, Australia. The authors are grateful to the staff of the RBWH, especially Darren Cassidy, for assistance in obtaining the phantom CT data used in this study. The authors also wish to thank Cathy Hargrave, of QUT, for assistance in formatting the CT data, using the Pinnacle TPS. Computational resources and services used in this work were provided by the HPC and Research Support Group, QUT, Brisbane, Australia.

Automatic object segmentation of unstructured scenes using colour and depth maps

This study presents a segmentation pipeline that fuses colour and depth information to automatically separate objects of interest in video sequences captured from a quadcopter. Many approaches assume that cameras are static with known position, a condition which cannot be preserved in most outdoor robotic applications. In this study, the authors compute depth information and camera positions from a monocular video sequence using structure from motion and use this information as an additional cue to colour for accurate segmentation. The authors model the problem similarly to standard segmentation routines as a Markov random field and perform the segmentation using graph cuts optimisation. Manual intervention is minimised and is only required to determine pixel seeds in the first frame which are then automatically reprojected into the remaining frames of the sequence. The authors also describe an automated method to adjust the relative weights for colour and depth according to their discriminative properties in each frame. Experimental results are presented for two video sequences captured using a quadcopter. The quality of the segmentation is compared to a ground truth and other state-of-the-art methods with consistently accurate results.

Career-path analysis using optimal matching and self-organizing maps

This paper is devoted to the analysis of career paths and employability. The state-of-the-art on this topic is rather poor in methodologies. Some authors propose distances well adapted to the data, but are limiting their analysis to hierarchical clustering. Other authors apply sophisticated methods, but only after paying the price of transforming the categorical data into continuous, via a factorial analysis. The latter approach has an important drawback since it makes a linear assumption on the data. We propose a new methodology, inspired from biology and adapted to career paths, combining optimal matching and self-organizing maps. A complete study on real-life data will illustrate our proposal.

Vision-only autonomous navigation using topometric maps

This paper presents a mapping and navigation system for a mobile robot, which uses vision as its sole sensor modality. The system enables the robot to navigate autonomously, plan paths and avoid obstacles using a vision based topometric map of its environment. The map consists of a globally-consistent pose-graph with a local 3D point cloud attached to each of its nodes. These point clouds are used for direction independent loop closure and to dynamically generate 2D metric maps for locally optimal path planning. Using this locally semi-continuous metric space, the robot performs shortest path planning instead of following the nodes of the graph --- as is done with most other vision-only navigation approaches. The system exploits the local accuracy of visual odometry in creating local metric maps, and uses pose graph SLAM, visual appearance-based place recognition and point clouds registration to create the topometric map. The ability of the framework to sustain vision-only navigation is validated experimentally, and the system is provided as open-source software.

Design, sustainability and Australian mass-market fashion : three case studies

The production of fashion garments has negative environmental and social impacts that can potentially be reduced through decisions made in the design process. This research explores to what extent Australian mass-market fashion designers consider environmental sustainability within product design. The study presents three case studies from different market levels, assembled through interviews with designers, along with an analysis of the Australian mass-market fashion industry. The project provides insights into the workings of the fashion design process within mid and high volume companies, and identifies opportunities and barriers for consideration of sustainability.

Mass spectrometry-based metabolomics towards understanding of gene functions with a diversity of biological contexts

Currently, mass spectrometry-based metabolomics studies extend beyond conventional chemical categorization and metabolic phenotype analysis to understanding gene function in various biological contexts (e.g., mammalian, plant, and microbial). These novel utilities have led to many innovative discoveries in the following areas: disease pathogenesis, therapeutic pathway or target identification, the biochemistry of animal and plant physiological and pathological activities in response to diverse stimuli, and molecular signatures of host-pathogen interactions during microbial infection. In this review, we critically evaluate the representative applications of mass spectrometry-based metabolomics to better understand gene function in diverse biological contexts, with special emphasis on working principles, study protocols, and possible future development of this technique. Collectively, this review raises awareness within the biomedical community of the scientific value and applicability of mass spectrometry-based metabolomics strategies to better understand gene function, thus advancing this application's utility in a broad range of biological fields

Metabolic urinary profiling of alcohol hepatotoxicity and intervention effects of Yin Chen Hao Tang in rats using ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry

This paper was designed to study metabonomic characters of the hepatotoxicity induced by alcohol and the intervention effects of Yin Chen Hao Tang (YCHT), a classic traditional Chinese medicine formula for treatment of jaundice and liver disorders in China. Urinary samples from control, alcohol- and YCHT-treated rats were analyzed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/ESI-QTOF-MS) in positive ionization mode. The total ion chromatograms obtained from the control, alcohol- and YCHT-treated rats were easily distinguishable using a multivariate statistical analysis method such as the principal components analysis (PCA). The greatest difference in metabolic profiling was observed from alcohol-treated rats compared with the control and YCHT-treated rats. The positive ions m/z 664.3126 (9.00 min) was elevated in urine of alcohol-treated rats, whereas, ions m/z 155.3547 (10.96 min) and 708.2932 (9.01 min) were at a lower concentration compared with that in urine of control rats, however, these ions did not indicate a statistical difference between control rats and YCHT-treated rats. The ion m/z 664.3126 was found to correspond to ceramide (d18:1/25:0), providing further support for an involvement of the sphingomyelin signaling pathway in alcohol hepatotoxicity and the intervention effects of YCHT.

Development of a rapid and validated method for investigating the metabolism of scoparone in rat using ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry

Scoparone (6,7-dimethoxycoumarin) is known to have a wide range of pharmacological properties. In this study, a rapid and validated ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/ESI-QTof-MS) method was developed to investigate the metabolism of scoparone in rat for the first time. The new method reduced the sample handling and analytical time by three- to six-fold, and the detection limit by five- to 1000-fold, compared to published methods. Far more metabolites were detected and identified compared to published data, which were preliminarily identified as scopoletin, isoscopoletin, isofraxidin, and fraxidin, respectively, when subjected to tandem mass spectrometry analyses. It is found that the metabolic trajectory of scoparone in rat focused on phase I metabolism which is obviously different from published results, and revealed a wide range of pharmacological properties of scoparone partly attributed to the bioactivities of its metabolites.

Timing, origin and emplacement dynamics of mass flows offshore of SE Montserrat in the last 110 ka : implications for landslide and tsunami hazards, eruption history, and volcanic island evolution

Mass flows on volcanic islands generated by volcanic lava dome collapse and by larger-volume flank collapse can be highly dangerous locally and may generate tsunamis that threaten a wider area. It is therefore important to understand their frequency, emplacement dynamics, and relationship to volcanic eruption cycles. The best record of mass flow on volcanic islands may be found offshore, where most material is deposited and where intervening hemipelagic sediment aids dating. Here we analyze what is arguably the most comprehensive sediment core data set collected offshore from a volcanic island. The cores are located southeast of Montserrat, on which the Soufriere Hills volcano has been erupting since 1995. The cores provide a record of mass flow events during the last 110 thousand years. Older mass flow deposits differ significantly from those generated by the repeated lava dome collapses observed since 1995. The oldest mass flow deposit originated through collapse of the basaltic South Soufriere Hills at 103-110 ka, some 20-30 ka after eruptions formed this volcanic center. A ∼1.8 km3 blocky debris avalanche deposit that extends from a chute in the island shelf records a particularly deep-seated failure. It likely formed from a collapse of almost equal amounts of volcanic edifice and coeval carbonate shelf, emplacing a mixed bioclastic-andesitic turbidite in a complex series of stages. This study illustrates how volcanic island growth and collapse involved extensive, large-volume submarine mass flows with highly variable composition. Runout turbidites indicate that mass flows are emplaced either in multiple stages or as single events.

Improved ultra-performance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization quadrupole-time-of-flight high-definition mass spectrometry method for the rapid analysis of the chemical constituents of a typical medical formula: Liuwei Dihuang Wan

Liuwei Dihuang Wan (LWD), a classic Chinese medicinal formulae, has been used to improve or restore declined functions related to aging and geriatric diseases, such as impaired mobility, vision, hearing, cognition and memory. It has attracted increasingly much attention as one of the most popular and valuable herbal medicines. However, the systematic analysis of the chemical constituents of LDW is difficult and thus has not been well established. In this paper, a rapid, sensitive and reliable ultra-performance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight high-definition mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) method with automated MetaboLynx analysis in positive and negative ion mode was established to characterize the chemical constituents of LDW. The analysis was performed on a Waters UPLCTM HSS T3 using a gradient elution system. MS/MS fragmentation behavior was proposed for aiding the structural identification of the components. Under the optimized conditions, a total of 50 peaks were tentatively characterized by comparing the retention time and MS data. It is concluded that a rapid and robust platform based on UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS has been successfully developed for globally identifying multiple-constituents of traditional Chinese medicine prescriptions. This is the first report on systematic analysis of the chemical constituents of LDW. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Analysis of organic aerosols collected on filters by Aerosol Mass Spectrometry for source identification

Aerosol mass spectrometers (AMS) are powerful tools in the analysis of the chemical composition of airborne particles, particularly organic aerosols which are gaining increasing attention. However, the advantages of AMS in providing on-line data can be outweighed by the difficulties involved in its use in field measurements at multiple sites. In contrast to the on-line measurement by AMS, a method which involves sample collection on filters followed by subsequent analysis by AMS could significantly broaden the scope of AMS application. We report the application of such an approach to field studies at multiple sites. An AMS was deployed at 5 urban schools to determine the sources of the organic aerosols at the schools directly. PM1 aerosols were also collected on filters at these and 20 other urban schools. The filters were extracted with water and the extract run through a nebulizer to generate the aerosols, which were analysed by an AMS. The mass spectra from the samples collected on filters at the 5 schools were found to have excellent correlations with those obtained directly by AMS, with r2 ranging from 0.89 to 0.98. Filter recoveries varied between the schools from 40 -115%, possibly indicating that this method provides qualitative rather than quantitative information. The stability of the organic aerosols on Teflon filters was demonstrated by analysing samples stored for up to two years. Application of the procedure to the remaining 20 schools showed that secondary organic aerosols were the main source of aerosols at the majority of the schools. Overall, this procedure provides accurate representation of the mass spectra of ambient organic aerosols and could facilitate rapid data acquisition at multiple sites where AMS could not be deployed for logistical reasons.

Heat and mass transfer modeling of the osmo-convective drying of yacon roots (Smallanthus sonchifolius)

Osmotic treatments are often applied prior to convective drying of foods to impart sensory appeal aspects. During this process a multicomponent mass flow, composed mainly of water and osmotic agent, takes place. In this work, a heat and mass transfer model for the osmo-convective drying of yacon was developed and solved by the Finite Element Method using COMSOL Multiphysics®, considering a 2-D axisymmetric geometry and moisture dependent thermophysical properties. Yacon slices were osmotically dehydrated for 2 hours in a solution of sucralose and then dried in a tray dryer for 3 hours. The model was validated by experimental data of temperature, moisture content and sucralose uptake (R²> 0.90).

Development and validation of anthropometric prediction equations for estimation of lean body mass and appendicular lean soft tissue in Indian men and women

Lean body mass (LBM) and muscle mass remains difficult to quantify in large epidemiological studies due to non-availability of inexpensive methods. We therefore developed anthropometric prediction equations to estimate the LBM and appendicular lean soft tissue (ALST) using dual energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) as a reference method. Healthy volunteers (n= 2220; 36% females; age 18-79 y) representing a wide range of body mass index (14-44 kg/m2) participated in this study. Their LBM including ALST was assessed by DXA along with anthropometric measurements. The sample was divided into prediction (60%) and validation (40%) sets. In the prediction set, a number of prediction models were constructed using DXA measured LBM and ALST estimates as dependent variables and a combination of anthropometric indices as independent variables. These equations were cross-validated in the validation set. Simple equations using age, height and weight explained > 90% variation in the LBM and ALST in both men and women. Additional variables (hip and limb circumferences and sum of SFTs) increased the explained variation by 5-8% in the fully adjusted models predicting LBM and ALST. More complex equations using all the above anthropometric variables could predict the DXA measured LBM and ALST accurately as indicated by low standard error of the estimate (LBM: 1.47 kg and 1.63 kg for men and women, respectively) as well as good agreement by Bland Altman analyses. These equations could be a valuable tool in large epidemiological studies assessing these body compartments in Indians and other population groups with similar body composition.

Associations of body mass index and waist circumference with: energy intake and percentage energy from macronutrients, in a cohort of Australian children

Background It is evident from previous research that the role of dietary composition in relation to the development of childhood obesity remains inconclusive. Several studies investigating the relationship between body mass index (BMI), waist circumference (WC) and/or skin fold measurements with energy intake have suggested that the macronutrient composition of the diet (protein, carbohydrate, fat) may play an important contributing role to obesity in childhood as it does in adults. This study investigated the possible relationship between BMI and WC with energy intake and percentage energy intake from macronutrients in Australian children and adolescents. Methods Height, weight and WC measurements, along with 24 h food and drink records (FDR) intake data were collected from 2460 boys and girls aged 5-17 years living in the state of Queensland, Australia. Results Statistically significant, yet weak correlations between BMI z-score and WC with total energy intake were observed in grades 1, 5 and 10, with only 55% of subjects having a physiologically plausible 24 hr FDR. Using Pearson correlations to examine the relationship between BMI and WC with energy intake and percentage macronutrient intake, no significant correlations were observed between BMI z-score or WC and percentage energy intake from protein, carbohydrate or fat. One way ANOVAs showed that although those with a higher BMI z-score or WC consumed significantly more energy than their lean counterparts. Conclusion No evidence of an association between percentage macronutrient intake and BMI or WC was found. Evidently, more robust longitudinal studies are needed to elucidate the relationship linking obesity and dietary intake.