Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

Acknowledgements The research reported in this paper was conducted as part of a collaborative research project involving the Universities of Aberdeen and Nottingham in the UK, funded by the UK's Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC grants EP/E011330/1 and EP/E010407/1). Riccardo Briganti acknowledges support through an EPSRC Career Acceleration Fellowship (EP/I004505/1). The paper has benefitted from the helpful comments provided by Professor Tom Baldock and an anonymous reviewer.

AMS radiocarbon dates on ten monospecific samples of planktonic foraminifer Globigerinoides ruber of sediment core GeoB8509-2 (Table 1)

Aeolian and fluvial sediment transport to the Atlantic Ocean offshore Mauritania were reconstructed based on grain-size distributions of the carbonate-free silt fraction of three marine sediment records of Cap Timiris Canyon to monitor the climatic evolution of present-day arid north-western Africa. During the late Pleistocene, predominantly coarse-grained particles, which are interpreted as windborne dust, characterise glacial dry climate conditions with a low sea level and extended sand seas that reach onto the exposed continental shelf off Mauritania. Subsequent particle fining and the abrupt decrease in terrigenous supply are attributed to humid climate conditions and dune stabilisation on the adjacent African continent with the onset of the Holocene humid period. Indications for an ancient drainage system, which was discharging fluvial mud offshore via Cap Timiris Canyon, are provided by the finest end member for early to mid Holocene times. However, in comparison to the Senegal and Niger River further south, the river system connecting Cap Timiris Canyon with the Mauritanian hinterland was starved during the late Holocene and is non-discharging under present-day arid climate conditions.

Sediment budget and geomorphic process units of the Swedish Kärkevagge, link to ArcInfo E00 files

Geomorphic process units have been derived in order to allow quantification via GIS techniques at a catchment scale. Mass movement rates based on existing field measurements are employed in the budget calculations. In the Kärkevagge catchment, Northern Sweden, 80% of the area can be identified either as a source area for sediments or as a zone where sediments are deposited. The overall budget for the slopes beneath the rockwalls in the Kärkevagge is approximately 680 t/a whilst about 150 t a-1 are transported into the fluvial system.

Grain size effects on excess Thorium-230 of sediment cores from the Southern Ocean and the South East Atlantic

Excess Thorium-230 (230Thxs) as a constant flux tracer is an essential tool for paleoceanographic studies, but its limitations for flux normalization are still a matter of debate. In regions of rapid sediment accumulation, it has been an open question if 230Thxs-normalized fluxes are biased by particle sorting effects during sediment redistribution. In order to study the sorting effect of sediment transport on 230Thxs, we analyzed the specific activity of 230Thxs in different particle size classes of carbonate-rich sediments from the South East Atlantic, and of opal-rich sediments from the Atlantic sector of the Southern Ocean. At both sites, we compare the 230Thxs distribution in neighboring high vs. low accumulation settings. Two grain-size fractionation methods are explored. We find that the 230Thxs distribution is strongly grain size dependent, and 50-90% of the total 230Thxs inventory is concentrated in fine material smaller than 10 µm, which is preferentially deposited at the high accumulation sites. This leads to an overestimation of the focusing factor Psi, and consequently to an underestimation of the vertical flux rate at such sites. The distribution of authigenic uranium indicates that fine organic-rich material has also been re-deposited from lateral sources. If the particle sorting effect is considered in the flux calculations, it reduces the estimated extent of sediment focusing. In order to assess the maximum effect of particle sorting on Psi, we present an extreme scenario, in which we assume a lateral sediment supply of only fine material (< 10 µm). In this case, the focusing factor of the opal-rich core would be reduced from Psi = 5.9 to Psi = 3.2. In a more likely scenario, allowing silt-sized material to be transported, Psi is reduced from 5.9 to 5.0 if particle sorting is taken into consideration. The bias introduced by particle sorting is most important for strongly focused sediments. Comparing 230Thxs-normalized mass fluxes biased by sorting effects with uncorrected mass fluxes, we suggest that 230Thxs-normalization is still a valid tool to correct for lateral sediment redistribution. However, differences in focusing factors between core locations have to be evaluated carefully, taking the grain size distributions into consideration.

Sea surface temperatures reconstructed from alkenones of surface sediment samples of the Argentine Basin at stations GeoB1501-1 to GeoB2830-1

We analysed the alkenone unsaturation ratio (UK'37) in 87 surface sediment samples from the western South Atlantic (5°N-50°S) in order to evaluate its applicability as a paleotemperature tool for this part of the ocean. The measured UK'37 ratios were converted into temperature using the global core-top calibration of Müller et al. (1998, doi:10.1016/S0016-7037(98)00097-0) and compared with annual mean atlas sea-surface temperatures (SSTs) of overlying surface waters. The results reveal a close correspondence (<1.5°C) between atlas and alkenone temperatures for the Western Tropical Atlantic and the Brazil Current region north of 32°S, but deviating low alkenone temperatures by -2° to -6°C are found in the regions of the Brazil-Malvinas Confluence (35-39°S) and the Malvinas Current (41-48°S). From the oceanographic evidence these low UK'37 values cannot be explained by preferential alkenone production below the mixed layer or during the cold season. Higher nutrient availability and algal growth rates are also unlikely causes. Instead, our results imply that lateral displacement of suspended particles and sediments, caused by strong surface and bottom currents, benthic storms, and downslope processes is responsible for the deviating UK'37 temperatures. In this way, particles and sediments carrying a cold water UK'37 signal of coastal or southern origin are transported northward and offshore into areas with warmer surface waters. In the northern Argentine Basin the depth between displaced and unaffected sediments appears to coincide with the boundary between the northward flowing Lower Circumpolar Deep Water (LCDW) and the southward flowing North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) at about 4000 m.

Bulk sediment parameters and coarse-fraction analysis of ODP Leg 178 holes

The area west of the Antarctic Peninsula is a key region for studying and understanding the history of glaciation in the southern high latitudes during the Neogene with respect to variations of the western Antarctic continental ice sheet, variable sea-ice cover, induced eustatic sea level change, as well as consequences for the global climatic system (Barker, Camerlenghi, Acton, et al., 1999). Sites 1095, 1096, and 1101 were drilled on sediment drifts forming the continental rise to examine the nature and composition of sediments deposited under the influence of the Antarctic Peninsula ice sheet, which has repeatedly advanced to the shelf edge and subsequently released glacially eroded material on the continental shelf and slope (Barker et al., 1999). Mass gravity processes on the slope are responsible for downslope sediment transport by turbidity currents within a channel system between the drifts. Furthermore, bottom currents redistribute the sediments, which leads to final build up of drift bodies (Rebesco et al., 1998). The high-resolution sedimentary sequences on the continental rise can be used to document the variability of continental glaciation and, therefore, allow us to assess the main factors that control the sediment transport and the depositional processes during glaciation periods and their relationship to glacio-eustatic sea level changes. Site 1095 lies in 3840 m of water in a distal position on the northwestern lower flank of Drift 7, whereas Site 1096 lies in 3152 m of water in a more proximal position within Drift 7. Site 1101 is located at 3509 m water depth on the northwestern flank of Drift 4. All three sites have high sedimentation rates. The oldest sediments were recovered at Site 1095 (late Miocene; 9.7 Ma), whereas sediments of Pliocene age were recovered at Site 1096 (4.7 Ma) and at Site 1101 (3.5 Ma). The purpose of this work is to provide a data set of bulk sediment parameters such as CaCO3, total organic carbon (TOC), and coarse-fraction mass percentage (>63 µm) measured on the sediments collected from the continental rise of the western Antarctic Peninsula (Holes 1095A, 1095B, 1096A, 1096B, 1096C, and 1101A). This information can be used to understand the complex depositional processes and their implication for variations in the climatic system of the western Pacific Antarctic margin since 9.7 Ma (late Miocene). Coarse-fraction particles (125-500 µm) from the late Pliocene and Pleistocene (4.0 Ma to recent) sediments recovered from Hole 1095A were microscopically analyzed to gather more detailed information about their variability and composition through time. These data can yield information about changes in potential source regions of the glacially eroded material that has been transported during repeated periods of ice-sheet movements on the shelf.

The concept of transport capacity and its use in different geomorphic process domains

The notion of sediment-transport capacity has been engrained in geomorphological and related literature for over 50 years, although its earliest roots date back explicitly to Gilbert in fluvial geomorphology in the 1870s and implicitly to eighteenth to nineteenth century developments in engineering. Despite cross fertilization between different process domains, there seem to have been independent inventions of the idea in aeolian geomorphology by Bagnold in the 1930s and in hillslope studies by Ellison in the 1940s. Here we review the invention and development of the idea of transport capacity in the fluvial, aeolian, coastal, hillslope, débris flow, and glacial process domains. As these various developments have occurred, different definitions have been used, which makes it both a difficult concept to test, and one that may lead to poor communications between those working in different domains of geomorphology. We argue that the original relation between the power of a flow and its ability to transport sediment can be challenged for three reasons. First, as sediment becomes entrained in a flow, the nature of the flow changes and so it is unreasonable to link the capacity of the water or wind only to the ability of the fluid to move sediment. Secondly, environmental sediment transport is complicated, and the range of processes involved in most movements means that simple relationships are unlikely to hold, not least because the movement of sediment often changes the substrate, which in turn affects the flow conditions. Thirdly, the inherently stochastic nature of sediment transport means that any capacity relationships do not scale either in time or in space. Consequently, new theories of sediment transport are needed to improve understanding and prediction and to guide measurement and management of all geomorphic systems.

In situ characterization of sediment oxygen demand across the spectrum of non-resuspension to full resuspension with varying bed shear stress

Sediment oxygen demand (SOD) can be a significant oxygen sink in various types of water bodies, particularly slow-moving waters with substantial organic sediment accumulation. In most settings where SOD is a concern, the prevailing hydraulic conditions are such that the impact of sediment resuspension on SOD is not considered. However, in the case of Bubbly Creek in Chicago, Illinois, the prevailing slack water conditions are interrupted by infrequent intervals of very high flow rates associated with pumped combined sewer overflow (CSO) during intense hydrologic events. These events can cause resuspension of the highly organic, nutrient-rich bottom sediments, resulting in precipitous drawdown of dissolved oxygen (DO) in the water column. While many past studies have addressed the dependence of SOD on near-bed velocity and bed shear stress prior to the point of sediment resuspension, there has been limited research that has attempted to characterize the complex and dynamic phenomenon of resuspended-sediment oxygen demand. To address this issue, a new in situ experimental apparatus referred to as the U of I Hydrodynamic SOD Sampler was designed to achieve a broad range of velocities and associated bed shear stresses. This allowed SOD to be analyzed across the spectrum of no sediment resuspension associated with low velocity/ bed shear stress through full sediment resuspension associated with high velocity / bed shear stress. The current study split SOD into two separate components: (1) SODNR is the sediment oxygen demand associated with non-resuspension conditions and is a surface sink calculated using traditional methods to yield a value with units (g/m2/day); and (2) SODR is the oxygen demand associated with resuspension conditions, which is a volumetric sink most accurately characterized using non-traditional methods and units that reflect suspension in the water column (mg/L/day). In the case of resuspension, the suspended sediment concentration was analyzed as a function of bed shear stress, and a formulation was developed to characterize SODR as a function of suspended sediment concentration in a form similar to first-order biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) kinetics with Monod DO term. The results obtained are intended to be implemented into a numerical model containing hydrodynamic, sediment transport, and water quality components to yield oxygen demand varying in both space and time for specific flow events. Such implementation will allow evaluation of proposed Bubbly Creek water quality improvement alternatives which take into account the impact of SOD under various flow conditions. Although the findings were based on experiments specific to the conditions in Bubbly Creek, the techniques and formulations developed in this study should be applicable to similar sites.

The impact of tides and waves on near-surface suspended sediment concentrations in the English Channel

Numerous ecological problems of continental shelf ecosystems require a refined knowledge of the evolution of suspended sediment concentrations (SSC). The present investigation focuses on the spatial and temporal variabilities of near-surface SSC in coastal waters of the English Channel (western Europe) by exploiting numerical predictions from the Regional Ocean Modeling System ROMS. Extending previous investigations of ROMS performances in the Channel, this analysis refines, with increased spatial and temporal resolutions, the characterization of near-surface SSC patterns revealing areas where concentrations are highly correlated with evolutions of tides and waves. Significant tidal modulations of near-surface concentrations are thus found in the eastern English Channel and the French Dover Strait while a pronounced influence of waves is exhibited in the Channel Islands Gulf. Coastal waters present furthermore strong SSC temporal variations, particularly noticeable during storm events of autumn and winter, with maximum near-surface concentrations exceeding 40 mg l−1 and increase by a factor from 10 to 18 in comparison with time-averaged concentrations. This temporal variability strongly depends on the granulometric distribution of suspended sediments characterized by local bi-modal contributions of silts and sands off coastal irregularities of the Isle of Wight, the Cotentin Peninsula and the southern Dover Strait.