Local Conentration of Waves due to Abrupt Alongshore Variation of Nearshore Bathymetry

Small-scale physical and numerical experiments were conducted to investigate the local concentration of waves (monochromatic and group) due to abrupt change of nearshore bathymetry in alongshore direction. Wave run-up motions along the shoreline were measured using an image analysis technique to compare localized concentration of wave energy, when waves propagate a over bathymetry composing rhythmic patterns of mild/steep slope bottom configurations. Measured alongshore variation of maximum wave run-up heights showed significant peak near the boundary, which has sudden alongshore change of depth, both under monochromatic and group wave trains. This phenomenon is found to be due to interaction of waves with neashore currents, which is further enhanced by excitation of long wave components by breaking of group waves. Furthermore, this paper discusses results of preliminary experiments carried out to test the effectiveness of several shore protection structure layouts in mitigating such wave concentrations. Numerical simulations were performed by using a model developed based on Nwogu (1993) Boussinesq-type equations; coupled with a transport equation to model energy dissipation due to wave breaking.

Observations of ubiquitous compressive waves in the Sun's chromosphere

The details of the mechanism(s) responsible for the observed heating and dynamics of the solar atmosphere still remain a mystery. Magnetohydrodynamic waves are thought to have a vital role in this process. Although it has been shown that incompressible waves are ubiquitous in off-limb solar atmospheric observations, their energy cannot be readily dissipated. Here we provide, for the first time, on-disk observation and identification of concurrent magnetohydrodynamic wave modes, both compressible and incompressible, in the solar chromosphere. The observed ubiquity and estimated energy flux associated with the detected magnetohydrodynamic waves suggest the chromosphere is a vast reservoir of wave energy with the potential to meet chromospheric and coronal heating requirements. We are also able to propose an upper bound on the flux of the observed wave energy that is able to reach the corona based on observational constraints, which has important implications for the suggested mechanism(s) for quiescent coronal heating. © 2012 Macmillan Publishers Limited. All rights reserved.

How does Oyster work? The simple interpretation of Oyster mathematics

Oyster® is a surface-piercing flap-type device designed to harvest wave energy in the nearshore environment. Established mathematical theories of wave energy conversion, such as 3D point-absorber and 2D terminator theory, are inadequate to accurately describe the behaviour of Oyster, historically resulting in distorted conclusions regarding the potential of such a concept to harness the power of ocean waves. Accurately reproducing the dynamics of Oyster requires the introduction of a new reference mathematical model, the “flap-type absorber”. A flap-type absorber is a large thin device which extracts energy by pitching about a horizontal axis parallel to the ocean bottom. This paper unravels the mathematics of Oyster as a flap-type absorber. The main goals of this work are to provide a simple–yet accurate–physical interpretation of the laws governing the mechanism of wave power absorption by Oyster and to emphasise why some other, more established, mathematical theories cannot be expected to accurately describe its behaviour.

The Value of Full Scale Prototype Data - Testing Oyster 800 at EMEC, Orkney

This paper demonstrates the unparalleled value of full scale data which has been acquired from ocean trials of Aquamarine Power’s Oyster 800 Wave Energy Converter (WEC) at the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC), Orkney, Scotland.
High quality prototype and wave data were simultaneously recorded in over 750 distinct sea states (comprising different wave height, wave period and tidal height combinations) and include periods of operation where the hydraulic Power Take-Off (PTO) system was both pressurised (damped operation) and de-pressurised (undamped operation).
A detailed model-prototype correlation procedure is presented where the full scale prototype behaviour is compared to predictions from both experimental and numerical modelling techniques via a high temporal resolution wave-by-wave reconstruction. This unquestionably provides the definitive verification of the capabilities of such research techniques and facilitates a robust and meaningful uncertainty analysis to be performed on their outputs.
The importance of a good data capture methodology, both in terms of handling and accuracy is also presented. The techniques and procedures implemented by Aquamarine Power for real-time data management are discussed, including lessons learned on the instrumentation and infrastructure required to collect high-value data.

Seasonal and storm induced morphological variations at praia de Faro, península do Ancão, southern Portugal

Dissertação de Mestrado, Estudos Marinhos e Costeiros, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2009

Modelling underwater acoustic noise as a tool for coastal management

Dissertação de Mestrado, Gestão da Água e da Costa, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2009

Estudo de uma solução alternativa para o prolongamento do Molhe - Cais do Porto das Velas, Açores

Trabalho Final de Mestrado para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil Especialização em Hidráulica

The response of a uniform horizontal temperature gradient to heating

The response of a uniform horizontal temperature gradient to prescribed fixed heating is calculated in the context of an extended version of surface quasigeostrophic dynamics. It is found that for zero mean surface flow and weak cross-gradient structure the prescribed heating induces a mean temperature anomaly proportional to the spatial Hilbert transform of the heating. The interior potential vorticity generated by the heating enhances this surface response. The time-varying part is independent of the heating and satisfies the usual linearized surface quasigeostrophic dynamics. It is shown that the surface temperature tendency is a spatial Hilbert transform of the temperature anomaly itself. It then follows that the temperature anomaly is periodically modulated with a frequency proportional to the vertical wind shear. A strong local bound on wave energy is also found. Reanalysis diagnostics are presented that indicate consistency with key findings from this theory.

The spacing of orographic rainbands triggered by small-scale topography

A combination of idealized numerical simulations and analytical theory is used to investigate the spacing between convective orographic rainbands over the Coastal Range of western Oregon. The simulations, which are idealized from an observed banded precipitation event over the Coastal Range, indicate that the atmospheric response to conditionally unstable flow over the mountain ridge depends strongly on the subridge-scale topographic forcing on the windward side of the ridge. When this small-scale terrain contains only a single scale (l) of terrain variability, the band spacing is identical to l, but when a spectrum of terrain scales are simultaneously present, the band spacing ranges between 5 and 10 km, a value that is consistent with observations. Based on the simulations, an inviscid linear model is developed to provide a physical basis for understanding the scale selection of the rainbands. This analytical model, which captures the transition from lee waves upstream of the orographic cloud to moist convection within it, reveals that the spacing of orographic rainbands depends on both the projection of lee-wave energy onto the unstable cap cloud and the growth rate of unstable perturbations within the cloud. The linear model is used in tandem with numerical simulations to determine the sensitivity of the band spacing to a number of environmental and terrain-related parameters.