Deutsche Kunst und Dekoration : Wohnungskunst, Malerei, Plastik, Architektur, Gärten, künstlerische Frauen-Arbeiten.

Editor: Alexander Koch.

Svi︠e︡tilʹnik.

Editor: V.I. Olovi︠a︡nishnikov.

The arts in early England,

The author died while several chapters of v. 6 were obviously unfinished, but no attempt was made to complete the subject-matter. The work was to have been concluded with a 7th volume discussing the illuminated manuscripts of the period.

Unfolding the Archive (Group Exhibition)

Unfolding the Archive, an exhibition of new work by the international artists’ group Floating World, is the result of a collaboration between the National Irish Visual Arts Library (NIVAL) and the F.E. McWilliam Gallery & Studio in partnership with the NCAD Gallery at the National College of Art & Design. The exhibition takes its title from the tangible starting point for engagement with an archive – the simple act of unfolding – and the practice of appraisal, valuation and interpretation that is inherent in this process.

The Ballets Russes connection with fashion.

This paper examines the influence that the costume designers of the Ballets Russes, many of whom were important artists from significant art movements of the day, had on contemporaneous fashion. It looks at why in particular the 'Ballets Russes' artists Leon Bakst and Natalia Goncharova went on to involve themselves in actual fashion production and the similarities between their work and the fashion designers producing work at the same time, principally Paul Poiret, Mariano Fortuny and Coco Chanel. Overall, this paper investigates the significance of the cultural times and of the distinct characteristics of the separate art forms, that may have encouraged avant-garde art and fashion to crossover and collaborate so unreservedly.

Evaluating the conservation of graffiti based on cultural significance.

Purpose – Graffiti, both ancient and contemporary, could be argued to be significant and therefore worthy of protection. Attaching value is, however, subjective with no specific method being solely utilised for evaluating these items. The purpose of this paper to help those who are attempting to evaluate the merit of graffiti to do so, by determining “cultural significance”, which is a widely adopted concept for attaching value to the historic built environment. The current Scottish system utilised to assess “cultural significance” is the Scottish Historic Environment Policy (SHEP) which shares many common features with other determinants of cultural significance in different countries. The SHEP document, as with other systems, could however be criticised for being insufficiently sensitive to enable the evaluation of historic graffiti due, in part, to the subjective nature of determination of aesthetic value. Design/methodology/approach – A review of literature is followed by consideration of case studies taken from a variety of historical and geographical contexts. The majority of examples of graffiti included in this paper have been selected for their relative high profile, previous academic study, and breadth of geographic spread. This selection will hopefully enable a relatively comprehensive, rational assessment to be undertaken. That being said, one example has been integrated to reflect commonly occurring graffiti that is typical to all of the built environment. Findings – The determination of aesthetic value is particularly problematic for the evaluator and the use of additional art‐based mechanisms such as “significant form”, “self expression” and “meaning” may aid this process. Regrettably, these determinants are also in themselves subjective, enhancing complexity of evaluation. Almost all graffiti could be said to have artistic merit, using the aforementioned determinants. However, whether it is “good” art is an all together different question. The evaluation of “good” art and graffiti would have traditionally been evaluated by experts. Today, determination of graffiti should be evaluated and value attached by broader society, community groups, and experts alike. Originality/value – This research will assist those responsible for historic building conservation with the evaluation of whether graffiti is worthy of conservation.

The influence of British rule on elite Indian menswear: the birth of the Sherwani

‘The Influence of British Rule on Elite Indian Menswear: The Birth of the Sherwani’ is a study of the influence of politics on fashion and the resulting development of new garments. This research is designed to demonstrate the effect on elite Indian menswear of the two centuries of British rule in India. It is an effort to understand how the flowing garments worn by elite Indian men in the 18th century gradually became more tailored and fitted with the passage of time. The study uses multiple sources to bring to light lesser known facts about Indian menswear, the evolution of different garments and especially of the sherwani. The sherwani is a knee-length upper garment worn by South-Asian men, and is considered to be India’s traditional menswear. My study highlights the factors responsible for the birth of the sherwani and dispels the myth that it was a garment worn by the Mughals. Simultaneously, this study examines the concept and value of ‘tradition’ in cultures. It scrutinises the reasons for the sherwani being labelled as a traditional Indian garment associated with the Mughal era, when in fact it was born towards the end of the 19th century. The study also analyses the role of the sherwani as a garment of distinction in pre- and post-independence India.

Threats and Promises: The Promotion of Artificial Lighting to Women Consumers in the United States, 1880s – 1960s

This article examines the development of a specific gendered discourse in the United States in the first half of the twentieth century that united key beliefs about feminine beauty, identity, and the domestic interior with particular electric lighting technologies and effects. Largely driven by the electrical industry’s marketing rhetoric, American women were encouraged to adopt electric lighting as a beauty aid and ally in a host of domestic tasks. Drawing evidence from a number of primary texts, including women’s magazines, lighting and electrical industry trade journals, manufacturer-generated marketing materials, and popular home decoration and beauty advice literature, this study shifts the focus away from lighting as a basic utility, demonstrating the ways in which modern electric illumination was culturally constructed as a desirable personal and environmental beautifier as well as a means of harmonizing the domestic interior.

Migrancy, modernity and cultural sustainability

Australian Home Beautiful’s October 1960 Edition was devoted to the modernisation of the Victorian and Edwardian-era houses of Australian cities’ inner suburbs. One of the articles inside was entitled ‘Terrace Houses are Common Problem’, in which the magazine’s architectural consultant Leonard A. Bullen suggested; “With houses of this type, the multiplicity of embellishments that appear in almost every possible place is irritating to eyes that have become accustomed to the cleaner and less ornamented lines of modern houses” and “The first necessity is to get rid of the superfluous decoration and emphasise horizontal features.” (Bullen 1960, 31). The post-World War Two period was a time when Australia’s traditional imagining of itself was confronted by both popular modernity and a diversity of new migrant cultures and ways of thinking. In a contemporary environment that theoretically celebrates diversity and creates audiences for increasingly multiplying expressions of culture and history, perhaps it is time that 1950s and ‘60s alterations to old houses were re-imagined as intrinsic elements in Australia’s cultural landscape. This supposition will be discussed in relation to the United Nations’ 2002 Kanazawa Resolutions’ definition of the relationship between culture and sustainability as ‘dialogical coexistence’ (Nadarajah and Yamamoto 2007).

The design of architectural dialect and local identity as Islam strategy in promoting its thought in Indonesia

The design of mosques in Indonesia uses basic principal form of Hindu temple with its roof taking the form of layered pyramid (3, 5, 7). This architectural dialect design approach was effective in promoting Islam in most regions of the Indonesian Archipelago. The detailed explanation about architectural dialect will be elaborated in my full paper. This paper discuss about a friendly approach by using Hindu Building as mosque. It has given a greatly impact to the surrounding society to Accept new religion. Such temple-styled mosques have a history dating back to 1200 AD and form the basic inspiration for mosque designs in all parts of the country. The layered pyramid mosque’s architectural dialect design proves that architecture has played significant role in promoting Islamic doctrines in Indonesia. 85% of the total Indonesian population is Muslim. Based on these statistics, it is widely evident that the use of dialect design as a political strategy by Muslim scholars was effective in introducing and promoting Islamic ideologies in Indonesia. The strategy facilitated psychological acceptance of Islam by the local populations who were initially Hindu believers and were accustomed to the temple. Additionally, the design ensured the peaceful introduction and spread of Islam in the region. Moreover, the fact that the dialect design was based on local identity, combined with local architecture that had highly recognizable building elements (roof and ornament) promoted the spread of Islam in Indonesia.

Alpha, Omega end group functionalization of RAFT polymers based on pentafluorophenyl esters and methane thiosulfonates

While polymers with different functional groups along the backbone have intensively been investigated, there is still a challenge in orthogonal functionalization of the end groups. Such well-defined systems are interesting for the preparation of multiblock (co) polymers or polymer networks, for bio-conjugation or as model systems for examining the end group separation of isolated polymer chains. rnHere, Reversible Addition Fragmentation Chain Transfer (RAFT) polymerization was employed as method to investigate improved techniques for an a, w end group functionalization. RAFT produces polymers terminated in an R group and a dithioester-Z group, where R and Z stem from a suitable chain transfer agent (CTA). rnFor alpha end group functionalization, a CTA with an activated pentafluorophenyl (PFP) ester R group was designed and used for the polymerization of various methacrylate monomers, N-isopropylacrylamide and styrene yielding polymers with a PFP ester as a end group. This allowed the introduction of inert propyl amides, of light responsive diazo compounds, of the dyes NBD, Texas Red, or Oregon Green, of the hormone thyroxin and allowed the formation of multiblocks or peptide conjugates. rnFor w end group functionalization, problems of other techniques were overcome through an aminolysis of the dithioester in the presence of a functional methane thiosulfonate (MTS), yielding functional disulfides. These disulfides were stable under ambient conditions and could be cleaved on demand. Using MTS chemistry, terminal methyl disulfides (enabling self-assembly on planar gold surfaces and ligand substitution on gold and semiconductor nanoparticles), butynyl disulfide end groups (allowing the “clicking” of the polymers onto azide functionalized surfaces and the selective removal through reduction), the bio-target biotin, and the fluorescent dye Texas Red were introduced into polymers. rnThe alpha PFP amidation could be performed under mild conditions, without substantial loss of DTE. This way, a step-wise synthesis produced polymers with two functional end groups in very high yields. rnAs examples, polymers with an anchor group for both gold nanoparticles (AuNP) and CdSe / ZnS semi-conductor nanoparticles (QD) and with a fluorescent dye end group were synthesized. They allowed a NP decoration and enabled an energy transfer from QD to dye or from dye to AuNP. Water-soluble polymers were prepared with two different bio-target end groups, each capable of selectively recognizing and binding a certain protein. The immobilization of protein-polymer-protein layers on planar gold surfaces was monitored by surface plasmon resonance.Introducing two different fluorescent dye end groups enabled an energy transfer between the end groups of isolated polymer chains and created the possibility to monitor the behavior of single polymer chains during a chain collapse. rnThe versatility of the synthetic technique is very promising for applications beyond this work.

Colour Symbolism, Colour Preference in Hungarian Folklore and Folk Architecture"

The Hungarian way of decoration has certain characteristics which are rooted in the deep symbolism of ancient Hungarian mythical thinking. The ancient heritage of the Hungarians' former homeland somewhere in the Urals included eastern elements. During their migrations, the Hungarian tribes met other eastern peoples and their culture of decoration became mixed with elements drawn from these new contacts. These diverse influences mean that the Hungarian way of thinking, building and ornamentation show a certain dualism of Puritanism and rationalism in the creation of space and manufacturing, and rich fantasy in decoration and ornamentation. The Hungarians use coloured ornamentation to emphasise the symbolic importance of details. The colouring system of the built environment shows the same dualism: the main colour of the facades and inner walls is white, while the furniture, textiles, gates and windows, and sometimes the gable and fireplace are richly decorated. In Hungarian symbolism, the house and settlement are a model of the universe, so their different parts also have a transcendent meaning. The traditional meanings of the different colours reflect this transcendence. Each colour has ambivalent meanings: RED - the colour of blood - means violence and love. YELLOW - means sickness, death and ripeness (golden yellow). BLUE - means innocence, eternity (light blue) and old age, death (dark blue). BLACK - can be both ceremonial and mourning. WHILE - can have sacred meaning (bright white), while yellowish white fabric is the most common garb of both men and women in village society. GREEN - the only colour without a dual meaning, symbolises the beginning of life. Until the late 18th and early 19th centuries Hungarian folk art used one or two-coloured decoration (red, black, blue, red-blue or red-black), and from the early 19th century it moved to multi-coloured decoration. Colours are characteristically used in complementary contrast, with bright colours on a plain ground and an avoidance of subtle shadings.

The episcopal complex of Eio-El Tolmo de Minateda (Hellín, Albacete, Spain). Architecture and spatial organization. 7th to 8th centuries AD

The episcopal complex of Eio, located in El Tolmo de Minateda, was built between the end of the 6th century and the beginning of the 7th century, possibly as a political decision taken by the ecclesiastical authority in the capital of the Visigothic kingdom (Toletum). With the comprehensive study of the whole complex presented below (construction cycles, furniture, decoration and location of spaces), we can interpret the function of each space in the basilica and the domus episcopi, the liturgical and general movement routes, the existence of some hierarchical environments, and specify the chronological development of the buildings. After the Arab-Berber conquest of Hispania in the early 8th century, the whole complex will experience a series of transformations that will convert the religious and monumental public area into a private, residential and industrial Islamic quarter.

[al-Qurʼān, 9th or 10th century].

Fragment from an Early ʿAbbāsid Qur’ān carrying final words of Sūrat al-Mulk (67) verse 23 through opening word of Sūrat al-Qalam (68) verse 19.