Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Do sex and atopy influence cough outcome measurements in children?

Background Despite the commonality of cough and its burden, there are no published data on the relationship between atopy or sex on objectively measured cough frequency or subjective cough scores in children. In 202 children with and without cough, we determined the effect of sex and atopy on validated cough outcome measurements (cough receptor sensitivity [CRS], objective cough counts, and cough scores). We hypothesized that in contrast to adult data, sex does not influence cough outcome measures, and atopy is not a determinant of these cough measurements. Methods We combined data from four previous studies. Atopy (skin prick test), the concentration of capsaicin causing two and five or more coughs (C2 and C5, respectively), objectively measured cough frequency, and cough scores were determined and their relationship explored. The children’s (93 girls, 109 boys) mean age was 10.6 years (SD 2.9), and 56% had atopy. Results In multivariate analysis, CRS was influenced by age (C2 coefficient, 5.9; P = .034; C5 coefficient, 29.1; P = .0001). Atopy and sex did not significantly influence any of the cough outcomes (cough counts, C2, C5, cough score) in control subjects and children with cough. Conclusions Atopy does not influence important cough outcome measures in children with and without chronic cough. However, age, but not sex, influences CRS in children. Unlike adult data, sex does not affect objective counts or cough score in children with and without chronic cough. Studies on cough in children should be age matched, but matching for atopic status and sex is less important.

Adolescent pedometer protocols : examining reactivity, tampering and participants' perceptions

The aim of this study was to investigate adolescents' potential reactivity and tampering while wearing pedometers by comparing different monitoring protocols to accelerometer output. The sample included adolescents (N=123, age range=14-15 years) from three secondary schools in New South Wales, Australia. Schools were randomised to one of the three pedometer monitoring protocols: (i) daily sealed (DS) pedometer group, (ii) unsealed (US) pedometer group or (iii) weekly sealed (WS) pedometer group. Participants wore pedometers (Yamax Digi-Walker CW700, Yamax Corporation, Kumamoto City, Japan) and accelerometers (Actigraph GT3X+, Pensacola, USA) simultaneously for seven days. Repeated measures analysis of variance was used to examine potential reactivity. Bivariate correlations between step counts and accelerometer output were calculated to explore potential tampering. The correlation between accelerometer output and pedometer steps/day was strongest among participants in the WS group (r=0.82, P <= 0.001), compared to the US (r=0.63, P <= 0.001) and DS (r=0.16, P=0.324) groups. The DS (P <= 0.001) and US (P=0.003), but not the WS (P=0.891), groups showed evidence of reactivity. The results suggest that reactivity and tampering does occur in adolescents and contrary to existing research, pedometer monitoring protocols may influence participant behaviour.

Atmospheric microplasma-functionalized 3D microfluidic strips within dense carbon nanotube arrays confine Au nanodots for SERS sensing

An atmospheric microplasma jet produces three-dimensional (3D) microfluidic channels on dense arrays of vertically aligned carbon nanotubes, which confines Au nanodot aqueous solution. The resulting hybrid 3D nanostructure is exploited as an effective microscopic area-selective sensing platform based on surface-enhanced Raman scattering.

Applying academagogy : the transference of an organised heuristic teaching approach to the digital realm

Much has been written about transferring class materials and teaching techniques to digital platforms, but less has been written about applying heuristic organizing constructs in the same manner. With the transformation of learning ecologies over the past decades as well as requirements to adjust to constantly shifting digital tools and environments, the challenges for learning facilitators are to readily adapt and change, as well as to engage a changing learner demographic. However, most importantly is to engage most effectively with learners in these online environments. This article reviews the existing literature in the heuristic construct of academagogy [1] and applies a case study methodology to discussion of the first application of academagogy to the online delivery of an undergraduate design unit. Through a focus on effective teaching and learning techniques, the transfer from face-to-face (f2f) to the digital realm is explored through four main focal points: Tools for teaching, teaching and learning, communicating with students, and effective teaching methods. These four focal points are then used to discuss ways to meet the challenges of teaching online including how they create new dimensions in teaching practice and how the digital experience changes learning experiences. The article concludes with reflection and consolidation of the similarities and differences between the face-to-face and digital deliveries, and by suggesting changes to the academagogic heuristic to enable its use more easily in a digital space.

Impact of nitrification inhibitor (DMPP) on soil nitrous oxide emissions from an intensive broccoli production system in sub-tropical Australia

Vegetable cropping systems are often characterised by high inputs of nitrogen fertiliser. Elevated emissions of nitrous oxide (N2O) can be expected as a consequence. In order to mitigate N2O emissions from fertilised agricultural fields, the use of nitrification inhibitors, in combination with ammonium based fertilisers, has been promoted. However, no data is currently available on the use of nitrification inhibitors in sub-tropical vegetable systems. A field experiment was conducted to investigate the effect of the nitrification inhibitor 3,4-dimethylpyrazole phosphate (DMPP) on N2O emissions and yield from broccoli production in sub-tropical Australia. Soil N2O fluxes were monitored continuously (3 h sampling frequency) with fully automated, pneumatically operated measuring chambers linked to a sampling control system and a gas chromatograph. Cumulative N2O emissions over the 5 month observation period amounted to 298 g-N/ha, 324 g-N/ha, 411 g-N/ha and 463 g-N/ha in the conventional fertiliser (CONV), the DMPP treatment (DMPP), the DMMP treatment with a 10% reduced fertiliser rate (DMPP-red) and the zero fertiliser (0N), respectively. The temporal variation of N2O fluxes showed only low emissions over the broccoli cropping phase, but significantly elevated emissions were observed in all treatments following broccoli residues being incorporated into the soil. Overall 70–90% of the total emissions occurred in this 5 weeks fallow phase. There was a significant inhibition effect of DMPP on N2O emissions and soil mineral N content over the broccoli cropping phase where the application of DMPP reduced N2O emissions by 75% compared to the standard practice. However, there was no statistical difference between the treatments during the fallow phase or when the whole season was considered. This study shows that DMPP has the potential to reduce N2O emissions from intensive vegetable systems, but also highlights the importance of post-harvest emissions from incorporated vegetable residues. N2O mitigation strategies in vegetable systems need to target these post-harvest emissions and a better evaluation of the effect of nitrification inhibitors over the fallow phase is needed.

The effect of trade openness on deforestation: empirical analysis for 142 countries

This study explores the effect of trade openness on deforestation. Previous studies do not find a clear effect of trade openness on deforestation. We use updated data on the annual rate of deforestation for 142 countries from 1990 to 2003, treat trade and income as endogenous, and take into consideration an adjustment process by applying a dynamic model. We find that an increase in trade openness increases deforestation for non-OECD countries while slowing down deforestation for OECD countries. There is a possibility that both capital-labor and environmental-regulation effects have a negative impact on deforestation in developing countries, whereas the opposite holds in developed countries. © 2012 Springer Japan.

In-hospital mortality rates after a cemented femoral component for displaced neck of femur fractures

Aim This prospective cohort study investigated whether the use of preoperative anticoagulants is an independent risk factor for the outcomes of surgical treatment of patients with a neck of femur fracture. Methods Data was obtained from a prospectively collected database. All patients admitted for a neck of femur fracture between Nov 2010 and Oct 2011 were included. This resulted in three hundred twenty-eight patients with 330 neck of femur fractures. Four groups were defined; patients preoperatively (i) on aspirin (n = 105); (ii) on clopidogrel (n = 28); (iii) on warfarin (n = 30), and; (iv) without any anticoagulation history (n = 167, the control group). The non-warfarin group included the aspirin group, clopidogrel group and the control group. Primary outcome was the in-hospital mortality. Secondary outcomes were the postoperative complications, return to theatre and length of stay. Results Thirteen in-hospital deaths were identified, 4 deaths in the aspirin group, 1 death in the clopidogrel group, 2 deaths in the warfarin group and 6 deaths in the control group. No significant difference in the mortality rates was found between the different groups. Also in the secondary outcomes, no significant difference was found between the four groups. A trend to a higher wound complication rate for the warfarin group was detected. Conclusion The use of clopidrogel or aspirin pre operatively is not an influence on short term patient outcome for patients with a neck of femur fracture. Surgical procedures should not be delayed to reverse their influence.

Determination of the ethylene oxide adduct S-(2-hydroxyethyl)cysteine by a fluorometric HPLC method in albumin and globin from human blood

A new method has been developed for the quantification of 2-hydroxyethylated cysteine resulting as adduct in blood proteins after human exposure to ethylene oxide, by reversed-phase HPLC with fluorometric detection. The specific adduct is analysed in albumin and in globin. After isolation of albumin and globin from blood, acid hydrolysis of the protein and precolumn derivatisation of the digest with 9-fluorenylmethoxycarbonylchloride, the levels of derivatised S-hydroxyethylcysteine are analysed by RP-HPLC and fluorescence detection, with a detection limit of 8 nmol/g protein. Background levels of S-hydroxyethylcysteine were quantified in both albumin and globin, under special consideration of the glutathione transferase GSTT1 and GSTM1 polymorphisms. GSTT1 polymorphism had a marked influence on the physiological background alkylation of cysteine. While S-hydroxyethylcysteine levels in "non-conjugators" were between 15 and 50 nmol/g albumin, "low conjugators" displayed levels between 8 and 21 nmol/g albumin, and "high conjugators" did not show levels above the detection limit. The human GSTM1 polymorphism had no apparent effect on background levels of blood protein 2-hydroxyethylation.

Effect of diabetes on amplitude of accommodation

Purpose: To determine the effect of Type 1 diabetes (DM1) on amplitude of accommodation. Method: There were 43 participants (33 ± 8 years) with DM1 and 32 (34 ± 8 years) age-balanced controls. Amplitude was measured objectively with a COAS wavefront aberrometer and subjectively with a Badal hand optometer. Results: Across both groups, objective amplitude was less than subjective amplitude by 1.4 ± 1.2 D. People with diabetes had lower objective (2.7±1.6 D) and subjective (4.0±1.7 D) amplitudes than people without diabetes (objective 4.1±2.1 D, subjective 5.6±2.1 D). For the DM1 group, the objective and subjective multivariate linear regressions were 7.1 – 0.097Age – 0.076DiabDur (R2 0.51) and 9.1 –0.103Age – 0.106DiabDur (R2 0.63), respectively. Conclusion: Objective and subjective techniques showed lowered amplitude of accommodation in DM1 participants compared with age-matched controls. Loss was affected strongly by duration of diabetes. People with diabetes will experience presbyopia earlier in life than people without diabetes.

Classification of inventory data suit for managing Australian railway bridges

With a focus to optimising the life cycle performance of Australian Railway bridges, new bridge classification and environmental classification systems are proposed. The new bridge classification system is mainly to facilitate the implementation of novel Bridge Management System (BMS) which optimise the life cycle cost both at project level and network level while environment classification is mainly to improve accuracy of Remaining Service Potential (RSP) module of the proposed BMS. In fact, limited capacity of the existing BMS to trigger the maintenance intervention point is an indirect result of inadequacies of the existing bridge and environmental classification systems. The proposed bridge classification system permits to identify the intervention points based on percentage deterioration of individual elements and maintenance cost, while allowing performance based rating technique to implement for maintenance optimisation and prioritisation. Simultaneously, the proposed environment classification system will enhance the accuracy of prediction of deterioration of steel components.

Future public service capacity: employment of young people into Australian public services during the GFC

Public services face several workforce challenges, including impending retirements and austerity programs. Although employing more young people is a likely solution to balancing the demographic profile of public services, the literature and theory suggest that young people would have fared worse during the global financial crisis. This research tests propositions around the vulnerability of young people in selected Australian public services during the global financial crisis, in terms of quantity and quality of jobs obtained. Surprisingly, the findings suggest that many young people fared as well or sometimes better than other age cohorts during the global financial crisis in terms of both recruitment and access to ongoing jobs. There are several indications that perhaps public services provided a safe haven in a turbulent labour market.

Issues in autonomous navigation of underground vehicles

This paper describes current research at the Australian Centre for Field Robotics (ACFR) in collaboration with the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) within the Cooperative Research Centre (CRC) for Mining Technology and Equipment (CMTE) towards achieving autonomous navigation of underground vehicles, like a Load-Haul-Dump (LHD) truck. This work is being sponsored by the mining industry through the Australian Mineral Industries Research Association Limited (AMIRA). Robust and reliable autonomous navigation can only be realised by achieving high level tasks such as path-planning and obstacle avoidance. This requires determining the pose (position and orientation) of the vehicle at all times. A minimal infrastructure localisation algorithm that has been developed for this purpose is outlined and the corresponding results are presented. Further research issues that are under investigation are also outlined briefly.