Käsityön sukupuolirajat ja rajojen rikkojat

Gender-specific division of crafts is significant in Finnish culture. The aim of craft education in comprehensive schools has been to unify education for both girls and boys during the thirty years of modern comprehensive education, but in reality crafts has diverged into two different subjects for girls and boys. Craft education has taught different things: girls have been taught things that are feminine and included in private life, while the boys’ education has been mostly directed at public and working life. At the same time girls and boys have been educated and socialized towards a certain womanhood and manhood. Craft as a hobby is also very gender divided but there are some clues that tell of the changing positions on the border areas. The starting point of this study has been the assumption that gender structures within crafts can be transformed. But it is important to know the background that creates and maintains these constructions and the expedients for dismantling the structures. The main purpose of this study is to find out how the gender-specific crafts are changing and how they are still maintained. My study analyses why men and woman have chosen untypical hobbies and through that I shall discuss how gendered structures can be dismantled. In the autumn of 2008 I interviewed borderline breakers within crafts: men who had an interest in textile crafts and women who had an interest in technical work. Informants of this study were 20-31 years old and they studied behavioural sciences. The data was collected in 12 theme interviews and document analysis was used to study the results. The dismantling of the gender divide in crafts is slow, but new borders are drawn all the time. The informants have started textile and technical handicrafts soon after comprehensive school or during their studies at university. A main motivation for the new hobby has been the possibility to study for a teacher’s degree with technology or textile studies as a main or a secondary subject. Gender-specific division of crafts is constructed early in childhood as different skills are taught to girls and boys. School teaches gender specific skills and the different skills of girls and boys have not been taken into account. Instead, it has been assumed through comprehensive school that both girls and boys share certain basic skills, and attention has not been paid to the differences between genders. At university the same assumption has still thrived. Skill levels between men and women are substantial and that may have hindered a move by women to technical studies and by men to textile studies. Hence an assumption of naturally gendered crafts has been developed.

Ateljeevaatteen valmistuksen työtavat Salon Kaarlo Forsmanin tuotannossa

The objective of the present study was to increase knowledge about the atelier culture of recent history, especially about the ways in which atelier clothes were made. I look at the ways of dress-making in the production of a renowned atelier, Salon Kaarlo Forsman. I also give a general outline of the atelier. The studying method I used was triangulation, which is a typical approach in case studies of recent history. My data include 23 dresses by the Salon Forsman, theme interviews of four of the Salon workers and one mannequin, data from my research work, as well as press material and archives. The basis of the analysis of these materials was a theme frame that I had put together with the help of pre-understanding. I then completed and defined the theme frame on the basis of the analysis of the data. I also analyzed the dresses in the fashion photos in the press material. Salon Kaarlo Forsman represents a certain cultural period, the years 1937-1986, and a place where a woman could have individual clothes made for her, from hats to fur coats. The atelier was particularly known for embroidery with beads, draping, and fantastic cuttings designed by the owner, fashion designer Kaarlo Forsman. I draw an outline of the work and practices of the atelier, but also that of Kaarlo Forsman’s life work, as he had a great influence on the sewing methods atelier clothes. Mr. Forsman was able to stretch the first period of modern fashion well into the third period by refusing new, labor-saving methods and sticking to individually designer clothes to the end of his enterprise. The crucial practices in the atelier that I present in this study are fitting, designing, finishing and sewing, as well as beading and the decoration of dresses. I compare the activity, practices and dress-making methods in the Forsman atelier to that of Haute Couture in Paris, which served as model for Finnish fashion houses. I point out the similarities and differences.

Studio portrait of unidentified woman with three young boys Portraits Family

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Unidentified woman standing outdoors Portraits Women

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Studio portrait of Sarah-Bertha Klarenmeyer nee Meyerhof called "Spatz" as a young woman. portraits women

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Jean-Pierre Durand, Patrick Matthiesen, unidentified woman and Serge Donabedian working on a puzzle at Aenny's 80th birthday; London.

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Aenny Catzenstein nee Gottschalk (right) with unidentified woman; Ascona, Switzerland.

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Samuel and Eva Baeck nee Placzek with unidentified woman holding child in background Portraits; Family

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Portrait of unidentified woman Portraits Women

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Lucien Levy-Bruehl, Albert Einstein, Franz Oppenheimer, Arthur Liebert and his son, Paul Tillich, unidentified woman and Mrs. Charles Blondel outside the Grand Hotel Curhaus during the Davoser Hochschulkurse; Davos, Switzerland Portraits Groups

The Davoser Hochschulkurse took place for the first time in 1928. Mainly university teachers from Germany, France, Switzerland (perhaps elsewhere) offered lectures to students recovering from tuberculosis at the health resort in the Swiss mountains. The lecturers were accommodated at the Grand Hotel Curhaus, where the lectures also took place.

Adolf and Henny Molling nee Meyerhof with Benno Molling's wife Sophie Molling nee Reuben and an unknown woman; Bad Nauheim, Germany.

Postcard written to Therese Gottschalk nee Molling at Norderney

Portrait of Gertrud (Trude) Guttmann (on right) with unidentified woman Portraits Groups Women

Born September 8, 1905, worked in a Jewish orphanage in Berlin and was deported to Auschwitz May 17, 1943, where she died.

Unidentified woman and two young girls reading; Leipzig Portraits Groups Women

Henry, born July 15, 1914, died August 6, 1978; Ruth, born 1923?