Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design

Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.

Myocyte enhancer factor 2C : an osteoblast transcription factor identified by DMSO enhanced mineralization

Rapid mineralization of cultured osteoblasts could be a useful characteristic in stem-cell mediated therapies for fracture and other orthopaedic problems. Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) is a small amphipathic solvent molecule capable of simulating cell differentiation. We report that, in primary human osteoblasts, DMSO dose-dependently enhanced the expression of osteoblast differentiation markers alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity and extracellular matrix mineralization. Furthermore, similar DMSO mediated mineralization enhancement was observed in primary osteoblast-like cells differentiated from mouse mesenchymal cells derived from fat, a promising source of starter cells for cell-based therapy. Using a convenient mouse pre-osteoblast model cell line MC3T3-E1 we further investigated this phenomenon showing that numerous osteoblast-expressed genes were elevated in response to DMSO treatment and correlated with enhanced mineralization. Myocyte enhancer factor 2c (Mef2c) was identified as the transcription factor most induced by DMSO, among numerous DMSO-induced genes, suggesting a role for Mef2c in osteoblast gene regulation. Immunohistochemistry confirmed expression of Mef2c in osteoblast-like cells in mouse mandible, cortical and trabecular bone. shRNAi-mediated Mef2c gene silencing resulted in defective osteoblast differentiation, decreased ALP activity and matrix mineralization and knockdown of osteoblast specific gene expression, including osteocalcin and bone sialoprotein. Flow on knockdown of bone specific transcription factors, Runx2 and osterix by shRNAi knockdown of Mef2c suggests that Mef2c lies upstream of these two important factors in the cascade of gene expression in osteoblasts.

The factor V HR2 haplotype: Prevalence and association of the A4070G and A6755G polymorphisms

Recently, a polymorphism was identified in exon 25 of the factor V gene that is possibly a functional candidate for the HR2 haplotype. This haplotype is characterized by a single base substitution named R2 (A4070G) in the B domain of the protein. A mutation (A6755G; 2194Asp→Gly) located near the C terminus has been hypothesized to influence protein folding and glycosylation, and might be responsible for the shift in factor V isoform (FV1 / FV2) ratio. This study investigated the prevalence of these two factor V HR2 haplotype polymorphisms in a cohort of normal blood donors, patients with osteoarthritis and women with complications during pregnancy, and in families of factor V Leiden individuals. A high allele frequency for the two polymorphisms was found in the blood donor group (6.2% R2, 5.6% A6755G). No significant difference in allele frequency was observed in the clinical groups (obstetric complications and osteoarthritis, 4.1-4.9% for the two polymorphisms) when compared with that of healthy blood donors. We confirm that the factor V A6755G polymorphism shows strong linkage to the R2 allele, although it is not exclusively inherited with the exon 13 A4070G variant and can occur independently. © 2001 Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Use of first nucleotide change technology to determine the frequency of factor V Leiden in a population of Australian blood donors

Activated protein C resistance (APCR), the most common risk factor for venous thrombosis, is the result of a G to A base substitution at nucleotide 1691 (R506Q) in the factor V gene. Current techniques to detect the factor V Leiden mutation, such as determination of restriction length polymorphisms, do not have the capacity to screen large numbers of samples in a rapid, cost- effective test. The aim of this study was to apply the first nucleotide change (FNC) technology, to the detection of the factor V Leiden mutation. After preliminary amplification of genomic DNA by polymerase chain reaction (PCR), an allele-specific primer was hybridised to the PCR product and extended using fluorescent terminating dideoxynucleotides which were detected by colorimetric assay. Using this ELISA-based assay, the prevalence of the factor V Leiden mutation was determined in an Australian blood donor population (n = 500). A total of 18 heterozygotes were identified (3.6%) and all of these were confirmed with conventional MnlI restriction digest. No homozygotes for the variant allele were detected. We conclude from this study that the frequency of 3.6% is compatible with others published for Caucasian populations. In addition, the FNC technology shows promise as the basis for a rapid, automated DNA based test for factor V Leiden.

Glycosaminoglycan and growth factor mediated murine calvarial cell proliferation

Understanding the complex mechanisms underlying bone remodeling is crucial to the development of novel therapeutics. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) localised to the extracellular matrix (ECM) of bone are thought to play a key role in mediating aspects of bone development. The influence of isolated GAGs was studied by utilising in vitro murine calvarial monolayer and organ culture model systems. Addition of GAG preparations extracted from the cell surface of human osteoblasts at high concentrations (5 microg/ml) resulted in decreased proliferation of cells and decreased suture width and number of bone lining cells in calvarial sections. When we investigated potential interactions between the growth factors fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF2), bone morphogenic protein-2 (BMP2) and transforming growth factor-beta1 (TGFbeta1) and the isolated cell surface GAGs, differences between the two model systems emerged. The cell culture system demonstrated a potentiating role for the isolated GAGs in the inhibition of FGF2 and TGFbeta1 actions. In contrast, the organ culture system demonstrated an enhanced stimulation of TFGbeta1 effects. These results emphasise the role of the ECM in mediating the interactions between GAGs and growth factors during bone development and suggest the GAG preparations contain potent inhibitory or stimulatory components able to mediate growth factor activity.

Common variation in the fibroblast growth factor receptor 2 gene is not associated with endometriosis risk

BACKGROUND Endometriosis is a polygenic disease with a complex and multifactorial aetiology that affects 8-10% of women of reproductive age. Epidemiological data support a link between endometriosis and cancers of the reproductive tract. Fibroblast growth factor receptor 2 (FGFR2) has recently been implicated in both endometrial and breast cancer. Our previous studies on endometriosis identified significant linkage to a novel susceptibility locus on chromosome 10q26 and the FGFR2 gene maps within this linkage region. We therefore hypothesized that variation in FGFR2 may contribute to the risk of endometriosis. METHODS We genotyped 13 single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) densely covering a 27 kb region within intron 2 of FGFR2 including two SNPs (rs2981582 and rs1219648) significantly associated with breast cancer and a total 40 tagSNPs across 150 kb of the FGFR2 gene. SNPs were genotyped in 958 endometriosis cases and 959 unrelated controls. RESULTS We found no evidence for association between endometriosis and FGFR2 intron 2 SNPs or SNP haplotypes and no evidence for association between endometriosis and variation across the FGFR2 gene. CONCLUSIONS Common variation in the breast-cancer implicated intron 2 and other highly plausible causative candidate regions of FGFR2 do not appear to be a major contributor to endometriosis susceptibility in our large Australian sample.

Homodimerization controls the fibroblast growth factor 9 subfamily's receptor binding and heparan sulfate-dependent diffusion in the extracellular matrix

Uncontrolled fibroblast growth factor (FGF) signaling can lead to human diseases, necessitating multiple layers of self-regulatory control mechanisms to keep its activity in check. Herein, we demonstrate that FGF9 and FGF20 ligands undergo a reversible homodimerization, occluding their key receptor binding sites. To test the role of dimerization in ligand autoinhibition, we introduced structure-based mutations into the dimer interfaces of FGF9 and FGF20. The mutations weakened the ability of the ligands to dimerize, effectively increasing the concentrations of monomeric ligands capable of binding and activating their cognate FGF receptor in vitro and in living cells. Interestingly, the monomeric ligands exhibit reduced heparin binding, resulting in their increased radii of heparan sulfate-dependent diffusion and biologic action, as evidenced by the wider dilation area of ex vivo lung cultures in response to implanted mutant FGF9-loaded beads. Hence, our data demonstrate that homodimerization autoregulates FGF9 and FGF20's receptor binding and concentration gradients in the extracellular matrix. Our study is the first to implicate ligand dimerization as an autoregulatory mechanism for growth factor bioactivity and sets the stage for engineering modified FGF9 subfamily ligands, with desired activity for use in both basic and translational research.