Kestävästi vaihtuva muoti : Kestävän muodin mahdollisuudet ja haasteet vaatesuunnittelijan näkökulmasta

The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.

How do heterogametic females survive without gene dosage compensation?

When the male is the heterogametic sex (XX♀-XY♂ or XX♀-XO♂), as inDrosophila, orthopteran insects, mammals andCaenorhabditis elegans, X-linked genes are subject to dosage compensation: the single X in the male is functionally equivalent to the two Xs in the female. However, when the female is heterogametic (ZZ♂-ZW♀), as in birds, butterflies and moths, Z-linked genes are apparently not dosage-compensated. This difference between X-linked and Z-linked genes raises fundamental questions about the role of dosage compensation. It is argued that (i) genes which require dosage compensation are primarily those that control morphogenesis and the prospective body plan; (ii) the products of these genes are required in disomic doses especially during oogenesis and early embryonic development; (iii) heterogametic females synthesize and store during oogenesis itself morphogenetically essential gene products - including those encoded by Z-linked genes — in large quantities; (iv) the abundance of these gene products in the egg and their persistence relatively late into embryogenesis enables heterogametic females to overcome the monosomic state of the Z chromosome in ZW embryos. Female heterogamety is predominant in birds, reptiles and amphibians, all of which have megalecithal eggs containing several thousand times more maternal RNA and other maternal messages than eggs of mammals,Caenorhabditis elegans, orDrosophila. This increase in egg size, yolk content and, concomitantly, the size of the maternal legacy to the embryo, may have facilitated female heterogamety and the absence of dosage compensation.

Expression of microinjected foreign DNA in silkworm,bombyx mori

As a prelude to achieving transgenesis in Bombyx mori, conditions have been established for successful microinjection of cloned foreign genes into the silk worm eggs. A sharpened metallic needle is used to pierce the thick chorion layer of the eggsheil, approaching through a droplet of DNA solution deposited on its surface. The microinjection is carried out within 2-2.5 h after oviposition and the injected eggs show 3-5% hatchability and 80-90% survival. Such larvae continuously expressed the microinjected cloned reporter gene, beta-galactosidase, placed under the control of a constitutively expressed cytoplasmic actin A3 gene promoter from B. mori. The expression is seen in different tissues, viz. the fat body, tracheae and the silk glands, till the late larval instars. The microinjected DNA sequences are retained in the adult G(o) moths.

Ethnobotany of the Monpa ethnic group at Arunachal Pradesh, India

Background: The present paper documents the uses of plants in traditional herbal medicine for human and veterinary ailments, and those used for dietary supplements, religious purpose, local beverage, and plants used to poison fish and wild animals. Traditional botanical medicine is the primary mode of healthcare for most of the rural population in Arunachal Pradesh. Materials and methods: Field research was conducted between April 2006 and March 2009 with randomly selected 124 key informants using semi-structured questionnaire. The data obtained was analyzed through informant consensus factor (F(IC)) to determine the homogeneity of informant's knowledge on medicinal plants. Results: We documented 50 plants species belonging to 29 families used for treating 22 human and 4 veterinary ailments. Of the medicinal plants reported, the most common growth form was herbs (40%) followed by shrubs, trees, and climbers. Leaves were most frequently used plant parts. The consensus analysis revealed that the dermatological ailments have the highest F(IC) (0.56) and the gastro-intestinal diseases have F(IC) (0.43). F(IC) values indicated that there was high agreement in the use of plants in dermatological and gastro-intestinal ailments category among the users. Gymnocladus assamicus is a critically rare and endangered species used as disinfectant for cleaning wounds and parasites like leeches and lice on livestocks. Two plant species (Illicium griffithii and Rubia cordifolia) are commonly used for traditional dyeing of clothes and food items. Some of the edible plants recorded in this study were known for their treatment against high blood pressure (Clerodendron colebrookianum), diabetes mellitus (Momordica charantia), and intestinal parasitic worms like round and tape worms (Lindera neesiana, Solanum etiopicum, and Solanum indicum). The Monpas of Arunachal Pradesh have traditionally been using Daphne papyracea for preparing hand-made paper for painting and writing religious scripts in Buddhist monasteries. Three plant species (Derris scandens, Aesculus assamica, and Polygonum hydropiper) were frequently used to poison fish during the month of June-July every year and the underground tuber of Aconitum ferrox is widely used in arrow poisoning to kill ferocious animals like bear, wild pigs, gaur and deer. The most frequently cited plant species; Buddleja asiatica and Hedyotis scandens were used as common growth supplements during the preparation of fermentation starter cultures. Conclusion: The traditional pharmacopoeia of the Monpa ethnic group incorporates a myriad of diverse botanical flora. Traditional knowledge of the remedies is passed down through oral traditions without any written document. This traditional knowledge is however, currently threatened mainly due to acculturation and deforestation due to continuing traditional shifting cultivation. This study reveals that the rural populations in Arunachal Pradesh have a rich knowledge of forest-based natural resources and consumption of wild edible plants is still an integral part of their socio-cultural life. Findings of this documentation study can be used as an ethnopharmacological basis for selecting plants for future phytochemical and pharmaceutical studies.

Genetic analysis of Indian tasar silkmoth (Antheraea mylitta) populations

Indian tasar silkmoth, Antheraea mylitta is an economically important wild silkmoth species distributed across India. A number of morphologically and ethologically well-defined ecotypes are known for this species that differ in their primary food plant specificity. Most of these ecotypes do not interbreed in nature, but are able to produce offspring under captive conditions. Microsatellite markers were developed for A. mylitta, and out of these, ten well-behaved microsatellite loci were used to analyze the population structure of different ecoraces. A total of 154 individual moths belonging to eight different ecoraces, were screened at each locus. Hierarchical analysis of population structure using Analysis of MOlecular VAriance (AMOVA) revealed significant structuring (F-ST = 0.154) and considerable inbreeding (F-IS = 0.505). A significant isolation by distance was also observed. The number of possible population clusters was investigated using distance method, Bayesian algorithm and self organization maps (SOM). The first two methods revealed two distinct clusters, whereas the SOM showed the different ecoraces not to be clearly differentiated. These results suggest that although there is a large degree of phenotypic variation among the different ecoraces of A. mylitta, genetically they are not very different, and the phenotypic differences may largely be a result of their respective ecology.

The Foraging Ecology of the Mountain Long-Eared Bat Plecotus macrobullaris Revealed with DNA Mini-Barcodes

10 p.

Una iniciativa social en la recuperación textil que genera empleo: Berohi S. Coop.

[ES] El incremento del consumo de ropa provoca que año a año aumente el volumen de ropa desechada, y con éste, la conciencia sobre la necesidad de reutilizar dicho recurso. Berohi S. Coop. es una de las empresas dedicadas a la recuperación y reciclaje del textil usado, con origen en Bizkaia. La concepción inicial y desarrollo del proyecto empresarial Berohi S. Coop. constituyen el eje central del caso.

What mechanism of niche segregation allows the coexistence of sympatric sibling rhinolophid bats?

Introduction: Our purpose was to assess how pairs of sibling horseshoe bats coexists when their morphology and echolocation are almost identical. We collected data on echolocation, wing morphology, diet, and habitat use of sympatric Rhinolophus mehelyi and R. euryale. We compared our results with literature data collected in allopatry with similar protocols and at the same time of the year (breeding season). Results:Echolocation frequencies recorded in sympatry for R. mehelyi (mean = 106.8 kHz) and R. euryale (105.1 kHz) were similar to those reported in allopatry (R. mehelyi 105–111 kHz; R. euryale 101–109 kHz). Wing parameters were larger in R. mehelyi than R. euryale for both sympatric and allopatric conditions. Moths constitute the bulk of the diet of both species in sympatry and allopatry, with minor variation in the amounts of other prey. There were no inter-specific differences in the use of foraging habitats in allopatry in terms of structural complexity, however we found inter-specific differences between sympatric populations: R. mehelyi foraged in less complex habitats. The subtle inter-specific differences in echolocation frequency seems to be unlikely to facilitate dietary niche partitioning; overall divergences observed in diet may be explained as a consequence of differential prey availability among foraging habitats. Inter-specific differences in the use of foraging habitats in sympatry seems to be the main dimension for niche partitioning between R. mehelyi and R. euryale, probably due to letter differences in wing morphology. Conclusions: Coexistence between sympatric sibling horseshoe bats is likely allowed by a displacement in spatial niche dimension, presumably due to the wing morphology of each species, and shifts the niche domains that minimise competition. Effective measures for conservation of sibling/similar horseshoe bats should guarantee structural diversity of foraging habitats.

Diferentes contextos de socialización de los niños y niñas de Puyo

35 p.

Entremeios da arte: moda e arte

Este trabalho versa sobre o universo da arte tangenciado pela moda, sua efemeridade, pertencimentos e seus agenciamentos. Nesse contexto, busca-se exemplificar o quanto a moda e a arte estão intrinsecamente ligadas. O ponto de partida é a moda como experiência e expressão coletiva e/ou individual, principalmente em trajes e formas vestimentares, pois são esses que mais forte influência exercem sobre o homem, seu corpo, seu espaço e memória. Localiza-se esse processo de aproximação entre arte e moda no século XX, quando vanguardas romperam com o academicismo clássico, agregando à arte sinestesias de sistemas relacionais. Rejeitam-se intermitências escultóricas e pictóricas para dar lugar a linguagens que interagem com o espectador. Os dados do presente trabalho traçam o panorama da aproximação entre arte e moda, a partir de duas vertentes: a primeira demonstra como a arte busca, no traje, suas sinergias, influenciando-se e apropriando-se da sinestesia proporcionada pela roupa; a segunda, como a moda apropriou-se de elementos da arte, em busca de um reposicionamento como expressão e não somente consumo

A arte da palhaçaria e a psicanálise

Ao visualizar uma figura de nariz vermelho, sapatos grandes e roupas coloridas, muitos podem acreditar que estão diante de um palhaço. Entretanto, o referido personagem não se caracteriza pela indumentária, mas sim por assumir-se ridículo e criar a partir disso. Ele não quer se curar de seus defeitos, pelo contrário, quer utilizá-los para produzir riso. Utilizando a psicanálise como instrumento de interpretação, é possível compreender que o palhaço se define por um modo de relação específico com a falta, radicalmente diferente da forma neurótica e sintomática. Por meio do chiste e do humor, ele acolhe o real inquirindo a realidade e demonstrando com o nonsense que todo sentido é parcial. O chiste elucida a estrutura do inconsciente a qual o palhaço sabe ser incurável. O humor possui a capacidade de rejeitar as reivindicações da realidade e efetivar o princípio de prazer, com a grande vantagem de não ultrapassar os limites da saúde mental. Assim, ele transforma as ocasiões traumáticas em oportunidades para a obtenção de prazer, uma vez que no humor o ego se recusa a sofrer rejeitando as reivindicações da realidade.

Determinación de compuestos orgánicos potencialmente alérgenos en equipos textiles de protección individual (EPIs) mediante analisis directo por pirólisis acoplado a cromatografía de gases espectrometría de masas (Py-GC/MS).

Nota de aplicación instrumental desarrollada en el Servicio Central de Análisis de Bizkaia (SCAB)

Solution oriented partnerships - A new business model for integrating global-production efficiencies with sustainability

A business model for integrating global-production efficiencies with sustainability is discussed. Two trends that emulate some of the aspects of the wealthy are the increasing willingness of many to pay extra for customization such as clothes, of kitchens and the increasing acceptance of purchasing a service as a product substitute. Two final trends that are also based in the attitudes of people is an increased awareness of the value of local culture and an increased concern with issues of sustainability. The results show that the goal congruence between for-profit and not-for-profit organizations puts emphasis on value and belief of the organization.

Sequence of genome segments 1, 2, and 3 of the grass carp reovirus (Genus Aquareovirus, family Reoviridae)

The genome segments 1, 2, and 3 of the grass carp reovirus (GCRV), a tentative species assigned to genus Aquareouirus, family Reouiridae, were sequenced. The respective segments 1, 2, and 3 were 3949, 3877, and 3702 nucleotides long. Conserved moths 5' (GUUAUUU) and 3' (UUCAUC) were found at the ends of each segment. Each segment contains a single ORF and the negative strand does not permit identification of consistent ORFs. Sequence analysis revealed that VP2 is the viral polymerase, while VPI might represent the viral guanyly/methyl transferase (involved in the capping process of RNA transcripts) and VP3 the NTPase/helicase (involved in the transcription and capping of viral RNAs), The highest amino acid identities (26-41%) were found with orthoreovirus proteins. Further genomic characterization should provide insight about the genetic relationships between GCRV, aquareoviruses, and orthoreoviruses, It should also permit to precise the taxonomic status of these different viruses. (C) 2000 Academic Press.

Characterization of the FKBP12-Encoding Genes in Aspergillus fumigatus.

Invasive aspergillosis, largely caused by Aspergillus fumigatus, is responsible for a growing number of deaths among immunosuppressed patients. Immunosuppressants such as FK506 (tacrolimus) that target calcineurin have shown promise for antifungal drug development. FK506-binding proteins (FKBPs) form a complex with calcineurin in the presence of FK506 (FKBP12-FK506) and inhibit calcineurin activity. Research on FKBPs in fungi is limited, and none of the FKBPs have been previously characterized in A. fumigatus. We identified four orthologous genes of FKBP12, the human FK506 binding partner, in A. fumigatus and designated them fkbp12-1, fkbp12-2, fkbp12-3, and fkbp12-4. Deletional analysis of the four genes revealed that the Δfkbp12-1 strain was resistant to FK506, indicating FKBP12-1 as the key mediator of FK506-binding to calcineurin. The endogenously expressed FKBP12-1-EGFP fusion protein localized to the cytoplasm and nuclei under normal growth conditions but also to the hyphal septa following FK506 treatment, revealing its interaction with calcineurin. The FKBP12-1-EGFP fusion protein didn't localize at the septa in the presence of FK506 in the cnaA deletion background, confirming its interaction with calcineurin. Testing of all deletion strains in the Galleria mellonella model of aspergillosis suggested that these proteins don't play an important role in virulence. While the Δfkbp12-2 and Δfkbp12-3 strains didn't show any discernable phenotype, the Δfkbp12-4 strain displayed slight growth defect under normal growth conditions and inhibition of the caspofungin-mediated "paradoxical growth effect" at higher concentrations of the antifungal caspofungin. Together, these results indicate that while only FKBP12-1 is the bona fide binding partner of FK506, leading to the inhibition of calcineurin in A. fumigatus, FKBP12-4 may play a role in basal growth and the caspofungin-mediated paradoxical growth response. Exploitation of differences between A. fumigatus FKBP12-1 and human FKBP12 will be critical for the generation of fungal-specific FK506 analogs to inhibit fungal calcineurin and treat invasive fungal disease.