Recent research on natural fibres and textiles

This paper provides an overview of recent research on a range of natural fibres and textiles. The focus is on work carried out at Deakin University’s Centre for Material and Fibre Innovation, which is a multidisciplinary research centre with over 100 researchers. The fibres include hemp, wool, silk, and alpaca fibres. Research on yarns, fabrics, and fine powders made from wool and silk fibres are briefly discussed also.

The within-fibre diameter variation of wool has been examined systematically, which highlights the importance of this hard-to-measure fibre attribute. A relationship between hemp fibre fineness and residual gum content has been established, which provides a rapid means of assessing the residual gum content in the degummed hemp fibres. Silk and wool fibres have been converted into ultrafine powders for advanced applications. The Resistance to Compression (RtC) behaviour of wool and alpaca fibres has been closely examined, which challenges the belief that RtC is a good indicator of fibre softness. Ways of reducing the hairiness of natural fibre yarns, predicting the pilling propensity of wool knits, and functionalising fabrics for superhydrophobicity and photochromic or colour changing effects are discussed.

Estimating the diameter of yarns with irregular constituent fibres

Yarn diameter and packing density are difficult to measure directly. Existing models on fibre packing density in a yarn assume that all fibres are uniform and have an identical diameter. Yet real staple yarns, such as wool yarns, consist of fibres of varying diameters. This paper proposes an effective and simple yarn model for calculating the average diameter of yarns, in which fibres have circular cross-section and the close packing in the yarn cross-section. The concept of “area equivalent diameter” is introduced to transform fibres of varying diameters to identical fibres with one equivalent diameter to simplify the calculations of the average yarn diameter for a range of yarns.

Prediction of wool knitwear pilling propensity using data mining techniques

This thesis examined the application of data mining techniques to the issue of predicting pilling propensity of wool knitwear. Using real industrial data, a pilling propensity prediction tool with embedded trained support vector machines is developed to provide high accuracy prediction to wool knitwear even before the yarn is spun!

Embeddable and locatable spinning

A novel spinning method: embeddable and locatable spinning, is reported for the first time in this paper. Analysis of the key restrictions of the conventional and some novel ring-spinning were studied; evolvement and principles of embeddable and locatable spinning were then introduced. Analysis indicated that embeddable and locatable spinning could overcome the existing restrictions of ring spinning and improve the spinning performance of fiber strands as well as the quality of the resulting yarn. Super-fine and colorful figured yarns could be produced successfully, and most fibers shorter than can be spun in traditional spinning could be well embedded into a yarn by embeddable and locatable spinning method; even staple fibers of low qualities could be used to produce a fine yarn of high qualities in the novel spinning system. This novel spinning method shows huge application potentials in textile industry by improving the yarn quality, developing super-fine yarn, and increasing fiber utilization rate.

Mechanical behavior of nano-micro composite core spun yarns

Strip twisted electrospun nanofiber yarns: Structural effects on tensile properties

Nanofiber yarns with controlled twist levels were prepared by twisting a narrow fibrous strip cut directly from electrospun nanofiber mats. The effects of fiber morphology, diameter and orientation, as well as the yarn twist level on the yarn tensile properties were examined. For the yarns made from randomly oriented fine uniform nanofibers (e.g., diameter 359 nm) and beaded nanofibers, the tensile strength increased with increasing the yarn twist level. Higher fiber diameter (e.g., 634 nm) led to the tensile strength having an initial increase and then decrease trend. The modulus increased with the twist level for all the yarns studied. However, the elongation at break increased initially with the twist level and subsequently decreased. The orientation of aligned fibers within the fiber strip greatly influenced the yarn tensile properties. When the fibers were oriented along the fiber length direction, both tensile strength and modulus were the largest.

Improving fiber trapping with a contact surface during the ring twisting of two cotton yarns

In this study, a geometrical model was introduced to improve the hair trapping via a surface contacting the yarn-twisting triangle during ring twisting of two single yarns. The fiber-trapping improvement with the contact surface was analyzed theoretically. Then, single Ne 80 ring cotton yarns were used to produce two-ply yarns under different ring-twisting conditions, namely conventional twisting, dry twisting of yarns with a plane surface, wet twisting of yarns with a plane surface, dry twisting of yarns with a grooved surface, and wet twisting of yarns with a grooved surface. Plied yarn properties, including yarn hairiness, strength, and irregularity, were tested. The Student Newman Keuls (SNK) test and variation analysis were also carried out in the SPSS program to study the effect of different contact surfaces on related yarn properties; the significance level was 0.05 for the SNK test and variation analysis. The hairiness of plied yarns was significantly reduced when twisting with the plane or grooved surface, especially for the wet twisting cases. This corresponds well with our model on improving fiber trapping.

Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

The prickle evoked by 48 knitted fabrics was assessed by wearers under a defined evaluation protocol. The relationship between the average wearer prickle score and known properties of constituent fibre, yarns and fabrics and fabric evaluation using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) was determined using linear modelling. After log transformation, the best model accounted for 87.7% of the variance. The major share of variation could be attributed to differences between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and WCM values. Low prickle scores were linearly associated with lower MFD, lower WCM and lower yarn linear density. There was an indication that yarn twist affected prickle scores and that fabrics composed of cotton evoked less prickle. Measures of fibre diameter distribution or coarse fibre incidence and other fabric properties were not significant. The analysis indicates that wool garments can be constructed to keep wearer assessed prickle to barely detectable levels and textile designers can manipulate a range of parameters to achieve similar wearer comfort responses.

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5–24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

Focused ion beam milling of carbon nanotube yarns and bucky-papers : correlating their internal structure with their macro-properties

Focused ion beam (FIB) milling through carbon nanotube (CNT) yarns and bucky-papers followed by scanning electron microscopy has recently emerged as a powerful tool for eliciting details of their internal structure. The internal arrangement of CNTs in bucky-papers and yarns directly affects their performance and characteristics. Consequently this information is critical for further optimisation of these structures and to tailor their properties for specific applications. This chapter describes in detail FIB milling of CNT yarns and bucky-papers and gives a range of examples where FIB milling has enabled a better understanding of how processing conditions and treatments affect the internal structure. Emphasis is placed on how FIB milling elucidates the influence of fabrication conditions on the internal arrangement of CNTs and how this influences the material's macroscopic properties.

Composite yarns fabricated from continuous needleless electrospun nanofibers

In this work, a spinning metal wire collector was employed to continuously collect polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers produced by a disc fiber generator and coil them around a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarn. The obtained composite yarns exhibited a core/shell structure (PET yarn/PAN nanofibers) with nanofibers orderly arranged on the surface of the PET yarn. The electric field analysis showed that the position of metal wire had insignificant effect on the formed electric field and high intensity electric field was formed at the disc circumferential area, which provided a constant electric field for the production of uniform nanofibers. The spinning solution, spinning speed of metal wire, and winding speed were found to play an important role in producing good quality nanofiber yarns, in terms of morphology, strength, and productivity. Pure nanofiber yarns were obtained after dissolving the core yarns in a proper solvent. This method has shown potential for the mass production of nanofiber yarns for industrial applications.

Recent developments in electrospinning of nanofiber yarns

Nanofibers possess high surface area and excellent porosity. Though nanofibers can be produced by a variety of techniques, electrospinning stands distinct because of its simplicity and flexibility in processing different polymer materials, and ability to control fiber diameter, morphology, orientation, and chemical component. Nonetheless, electrospun nanofibers are predominantly produced in the form of randomly oriented fiber webs, which restrict their wide use. Converting nanofibers into twisted continuous bundles, i.e., nanofiber yarns, can improve their strength and facilitate their subsequent processes, but remains challenging to make. Nanofiber yarns also create enormous opportunities to develop well-defined three-dimensional nanofibrous architectures. This review article gives an overview of the state-of-the-art techniques for electrospinning of nanofiber yarns and control of nanofiber alignment. A detailed account on techniques to produce twisted/non-twisted short bundles and continuous yarns are discussed.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.