Sediment dynamics and tidal inlet relocation in mixed-energy settings: the case of Ancão inlet (Algarve - Portugal)

Tese de dout., Ciências do Mar, Faculdade de Ciências do Mar e do Ambiente, Univ. do Algarve, 2003

Site level cost benefit analysis of renewable energy in the near-shore environment

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

Fast northward energy transfer in the Atlantic due to Agulhas rings

The adiabatic transit time of wave energy radiated by an Agulhas ring released in the South Atlantic Ocean to the North Atlantic Ocean is investigated in a two-layer ocean model. Of particular interest is the arrival time of baroclinic energy in the northern part of the Atlantic, because it is related to variations in the meridional overturning circulation. The influence of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge is also studied, because it allows for the conversion from barotropic to baroclinic wave energy and the generation of topographic waves. Barotropic energy from the ring is present in the northern part of the model basin within 10 days. From that time, the barotropic energy keeps rising to attain a maximum 500 days after initiation. This is independent of the presence or absence of a ridge in the model basin. Without a ridge in the model, the travel time of the baroclinic signal is 1300 days. This time is similar to the transit time of the ring from the eastern to the western coast of the model basin. In the presence of the ridge, the baroclinic signal arrives in the northern part of the model basin after approximately 10 days, which is the same time scale as that of the barotropic signal. It is apparent that the ridge can facilitate the energy conversion from barotropic to baroclinic waves and the slow baroclinic adjustment can be bypassed. The meridional overturning circulation, parameterized in two ways as either a purely barotropic or a purely baroclinic phenomenon, also responds after 1300 days. The ring temporarily increases the overturning strength. Th presence of the ridge does not alter the time scales.

On the distortion of turbulence by a progressive surface wave

A rapid-distortion model is developed to investigate the interaction of weak turbulence with a monochromatic irrotational surface water wave. The model is applicable when the orbital velocity of the wave is larger than the turbulence intensity, and when the slope of the wave is sufficiently high that the straining of the turbulence by the wave dominates over the straining of the turbulence by itself. The turbulence suffers two distortions. Firstly, vorticity in the turbulence is modulated by the wave orbital motions, which leads to the streamwise Reynolds stress attaining maxima at the wave crests and minima at the wave troughs; the Reynolds stress normal to the free surface develops minima at the wave crests and maxima at the troughs. Secondly, over several wave cycles the Stokes drift associated with the wave tilts vertical vorticity into the horizontal direction, subsequently stretching it into elongated streamwise vortices, which come to dominate the flow. These results are shown to be strikingly different from turbulence distorted by a mean shear flow, when `streaky structures' of high and low streamwise velocity fluctuations develop. It is shown that, in the case of distortion by a mean shear flow, the tendency for the mean shear to produce streamwise vortices by distortion of the turbulent vorticity is largely cancelled by a distortion of the mean vorticity by the turbulent fluctuations. This latter process is absent in distortion by Stokes drift, since there is then no mean vorticity. The components of the Reynolds stress and the integral length scales computed from turbulence distorted by Stokes drift show the same behaviour as in the simulations of Langmuir turbulence reported by McWilliams, Sullivan & Moeng (1997). Hence we suggest that turbulent vorticity in the upper ocean, such as produced by breaking waves, may help to provide the initial seeds for Langmuir circulations, thereby complementing the shear-flow instability mechanism developed by Craik & Leibovich (1976). The tilting of the vertical vorticity into the horizontal by the Stokes drift tends also to produce a shear stress that does work against the mean straining associated with the wave orbital motions. The turbulent kinetic energy then increases at the expense of energy in the wave. Hence the wave decays. An expression for the wave attenuation rate is obtained by scaling the equation for the wave energy, and is found to be broadly consistent with available laboratory data.

Self-consistent wave-particle interactions in dispersive scale long-period field-line-resonances

Using 1D Vlasov drift-kinetic computer simulations, it is shown that electron trapping in long period standing shear Alfven waves (SAWs) provides an efficient energy sink for wave energy that is much more effective than Landau damping. It is also suggested that the plasma environment of low altitude auroral-zone geomagnetic field lines is more suited to electron acceleration by inertial or kinetic scale Alfven waves. This is due to the self-consistent response of the electron distribution function to SAWs, which must accommodate the low altitude large-scale current system in standing waves. We characterize these effects in terms of the relative magnitude of the wave phase and electron thermal velocities. While particle trapping is shown to be significant across a wide range of plasma temperatures and wave frequencies, we find that electron beam formation in long period waves is more effective in relatively cold plasma.

Wave spectra assimilation in typhoon wave modeling for the East China Sea

The East China Sea is a hot area for typhoon waves to occur. A wave spectra assimilation model has been developed to predict the typhoon wave more accurately and operationally. This is the first time where wave data from Taiwan have been used to predict typhoon wave along the mainland China coast. The two-dimensional spectra observed in Taiwan northeast coast modify the wave field output by SWAN model through the technology of optimal interpolation (OI) scheme. The wind field correction is not involved as it contributes less than a quarter of the correction achieved by assimilation of waves. The initialization issue for assimilation is discussed. A linear evolution law for noise in the wave field is derived from the SWAN governing equations. A two-dimensional digital low-pass filter is used to obtain the initialized wave fields. The data assimilation model is optimized during the typhoon Sinlaku. During typhoons Krosa and Morakot, data assimilation significantly improves the low frequency wave energy and wave propagation direction in Taiwan coast. For the far-field region, the assimilation model shows an expected ability of improving typhoon wave forecast as well, as data assimilation enhances the low frequency wave energy. The proportion of positive assimilation indexes is over 81% for all the periods of comparison. The paper also finds that the impact of data assimilation on the far-field region depends on the state of the typhoon developing and the swell propagation direction.

SURFACE ALFVEN WAVE DAMPING IN A THREE-DIMENSIONAL SIMULATION OF THE SOLAR WIND

Here we investigate the contribution of surface Alfven wave damping to the heating of the solar wind in minima conditions. These waves are present in the regions of strong inhomogeneities in density or magnetic field (e.g., the border between open and closed magnetic field lines). Using a three-dimensional (3D) magnetohydrodynamics (MHD) model, we calculate the surface Alfven wave damping contribution between 1 and 4 R(circle dot) (solar radii), the region of interest for both acceleration and coronal heating. We consider waves with frequencies lower than those that are damped in the chromosphere and on the order of those dominating the heliosphere: 3 x 10(-6) to 10(-1) Hz. In the region between open and closed field lines, within a few R(circle dot) of the surface, no other major source of damping has been suggested for the low frequency waves we consider here. This work is the first to study surface Alfven waves in a 3D environment without assuming a priori a geometry of field lines or magnetic and density profiles. We demonstrate that projection effects from the plane of the sky to 3D are significant in the calculation of field line expansion. We determine that waves with frequencies >2.8 x 10(-4) Hz are damped between 1 and 4 R(circle dot). In quiet-Sun regions, surface Alfven waves are damped at further distances compared to active regions, thus carrying additional wave energy into the corona. We compare the surface Alfven wave contribution to the heating by a variable polytropic index and find it as an order of magnitude larger than needed for quiet-Sun regions. For active regions, the contribution to the heating is 20%. As it has been argued that a variable gamma acts as turbulence, our results indicate that surface Alfven wave damping is comparable to turbulence in the lower corona. This damping mechanism should be included self-consistently as an energy driver for the wind in global MHD models.

Energy efficiency for standard penetration tests

The need for standardization of the measured blow count number N-spt into a normalized reference energy value is now fully recognized. The present paper extends the existing theoretical approach using the wave propagation theory as framework and introduces an analysis for large displacements enabling the influence of rod length in the measured N-spt values to be quantified. The study is based on both calibration chamber and field tests. Energy measurements are monitored in two different positions: below the anvil and above the sampler. Both experimental and numerical results demonstrate that whereas the energy delivered into the rod stem is expressed as a ratio of the theoretical free-fall energy of the hammer, the effective sampler energy is a function of the hammer height of fall, sampler permanent penetration, and weight of both hammer and rods. Influence of rod length is twofold and produces opposite effects: wave energy losses increase with increasing rod length and in a long rod composition the gain in potential energy from rod weight is significant and may partially compensate measured energy losses. Based on this revised approach, an analytical solution is proposed to calculate the energy delivered to the sampler and efficiency coefficients are suggested to account for energy losses during the energy transference process.

Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model

This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south-eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short-term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK-GPS (real-time kinematics global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate-to-high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra-tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross-shore erosion. Copyright (C) 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

A snapshot of suspended sediment and fluid mud occurrence in a mixed-energy embayment, Tijucas Bay, Brazil

Along the southern Brazilian coast, Tijucas Bay is known for its unique muddy tidal flats associated with chenier plains. Previous field observations pointed to very high suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs) in the inner parts of the bay, and in the estuary of the Tijucas River, suggesting the presence of fluid mud. In this study, the occurrences of suspended sediments and fluid mud were examined during a larger-scale, high-resolution 2-day field campaign on 1-2 May 2007, encompassing survey lines spanning nearly 80 km, 75 water sampling stations for near-bottom density estimates, and ten sediment sampling stations. Wave refraction modeling provided qualitative wave energy estimates as a function of different incidence directions. The results show that SSC increases toward the inner bay near the water surface, but seaward near the bottom. This suggests that suspended sediment is supplied by the local rivers, in particular the Tijucas. Near-surface SSCs were of the order of 50 mg l(-1) close to the shore, but exceeded 100 mg l(-1) near the bottom in the deeper parts of the bay. Fluid mud thickness and location given by densimetry and echo-sounding agreed in some places, although being mostly discordant. The best agreement was observed where wave energy was high during the campaign. The discrepancy between the two methods may be an indication for the existence of fluid mud, which is recorded by one method but not the other. Agreement is considered to be an indication of fluidization, whereas disagreement indicates more consolidation. Wave modeling suggests that waves from the ENE and SE are the most effective in supplying energy to the inner bay, which may induce the liquefaction of mud deposits to form fluid mud. Nearshore mud resuspension and weak horizontal currents result in sediment-laden offshore flow, which explains the higher SSCs measured in the deeper parts of the bay, besides providing a mechanism for fine-sediment export to the inner shelf.

Study of a wind-wave numerical model and its integration with ocean and oil-spill numerical models

The ability to represent the transport and fate of an oil slick at the sea surface is a formidable task. By using an accurate numerical representation of oil evolution and movement in seawater, the possibility to asses and reduce the oil-spill pollution risk can be greatly improved. The blowing of the wind on the sea surface generates ocean waves, which give rise to transport of pollutants by wave-induced velocities that are known as Stokes’ Drift velocities. The Stokes’ Drift transport associated to a random gravity wave field is a function of the wave Energy Spectra that statistically fully describe it and that can be provided by a wave numerical model. Therefore, in order to perform an accurate numerical simulation of the oil motion in seawater, a coupling of the oil-spill model with a wave forecasting model is needed. In this Thesis work, the coupling of the MEDSLIK-II oil-spill numerical model with the SWAN wind-wave numerical model has been performed and tested. In order to improve the knowledge of the wind-wave model and its numerical performances, a preliminary sensitivity study to different SWAN model configuration has been carried out. The SWAN model results have been compared with the ISPRA directional buoys located at Venezia, Ancona and Monopoli and the best model settings have been detected. Then, high resolution currents provided by a relocatable model (SURF) have been used to force both the wave and the oil-spill models and its coupling with the SWAN model has been tested. The trajectories of four drifters have been simulated by using JONSWAP parametric spectra or SWAN directional-frequency energy output spectra and results have been compared with the real paths traveled by the drifters.

Wave driven devices for the oxygenation of bottom layers

This thesis discusses the design of a system to use wave energy to pump oxygen-rich surface water towards the bottom of the sea. A simple device, called OXYFLUX, is proposed in a scale model and tested in a wave flume in order to validate its supposed theoretical functioning. Once its effectiveness has been demonstrated, a overset mesh, CFD model has been developed and validated by means of the physical model results. Both numerical and physical results show how wave height affects the behavior of the device. Wave heights lower than about 0.5 m overtop the floater and fall into it. As the wave height increases, phase shift between water surface and vertical displacement of the device also increases its influence on the functioning mechanism. In these situations, with wave heights between 0.5 and 0.9 m, the downward flux is due to the higher head established in the water column inside the device respect to the outside wave field. Furthermore, as the wave height grows over 0.9 m, water flux inverts the direction thanks to depression caused by the wave crest pass over the floater. In this situation the wave crest goes over the float but does not go into it and it draws water from the bottom to the surface through the device pipe. By virtue of these results a new shape of the floater has been designed and tested in CFD model. Such new geometry is based on the already known Lazzari’s profile and it aims to grab as much water as possible from the wave crest during the emergence of the floater from the wave field. Results coming from the new device are compared with the first ones in order to identify differences between the two shapes and their possible areas of application.

Assessment of primary energy conversions of oscillating water columns. I. Hydrodynamic analysis

This is an investigation on the development of a numerical assessment method for the hydrodynamic performance of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter. In the research work, a systematic study has been carried out on how the hydrodynamic problem can be solved and represented reliably, focusing on the phenomena of the interactions of the wave-structure and the wave-internal water surface. These phenomena are extensively examined numerically to show how the hydrodynamic parameters can be reliably obtained and used for the OWC performance assessment. In studying the dynamic system, a two-body system is used for the OWC wave energy converter. The first body is the device itself, and the second body is an imaginary “piston,” which replaces part of the water at the internal water surface in the water column. One advantage of the two-body system for an OWC wave energy converter is its physical representations, and therefore, the relevant mathematical expressions and the numerical simulation can be straightforward. That is, the main hydrodynamic parameters can be assessed using the boundary element method of the potential flow in frequency domain, and the relevant parameters are transformed directly from frequency domain to time domain for the two-body system. However, as it is shown in the research, an appropriate representation of the “imaginary” piston is very important, especially when the relevant parameters have to be transformed from frequency-domain to time domain for a further analysis. The examples given in the research have shown that the correct parameters transformed from frequency domain to time domain can be a vital factor for a successful numerical simulation.

Experimental study on the wave measurements of wave buoys

Wave measurement is of vital importance for assessing the wave power resources and for developing wave energy devices, especially for the wave energy production and the survivability of the wave energy device. Wave buoys are one of the most popular measuring technologies developed and used for long-term wave measurements. In order to figure out whether the wave characteristics can be recorded by using the wave buoys accurately, an experimental study was carried out on the performance of three wave buoy models, viz two WaveScan buoys and one ODAS buoy, in a wave tank using the European FP7 MARINET facilities. This paper presents the test results in both time and frequency domains and the comparison between the wave buoys and wave gauge measurements. The analysis results reveal that for both regular and irregular waves, the WaveScan buoys have better performances than the ODAS buoy in terms of accuracy and the WaveScan buoys measurements have a very good correlation with those from the wave gauges.