864 resultados para Fashion and sustainability


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The thesis explores global and national-level issues related to the development of markets for biomass for energy. The thesis consists of five separate papers and provides insights on selected issues. The aim of Paper I was to identify methodological and statistical challenges in assessing international solid and liquid biofuels trade and provide an overview of the Finnish situation with respect to the status of international solid and liquid biofuels trade. We found that, for the Finnish case, it is possible to qualify direct and indirect trade volumes of biofuels. The study showed that indirect trade of biofuels has a highly significant role in Finland and may be a significant sector also in global biofuels trade. The purpose of Paper II was to provide a quantified insight into Finnish prospects for meeting the national 2020 renewable energy targets and concurrently becoming a largescale producer of forest-biomass-based second-generation biofuels for feeding increasing demand in European markets. We found that Finland has good opportunities to realise a scenario to meet 2020 renewable energy targets and for large-scale production of wood-based biofuels. The potential net export of transport biofuels from Finland in 2020 would correspond to 2–3% of European demand. Paper III summarises the global status of international solid and liquid biofuels trade as illuminated by several separate sources. International trade of biofuels was estimated at nearly 1 EJ for 2006. Indirect trade of biofuels through trading of industrial roundwood and material by-products comprises the largest proportion of the trading, with a share of about two thirds. The purpose of Paper IV was to outline a comprehensive picture of the coverage of various certification schemes and sustainability principles relating to the entire value-added chain of biomass and bioenergy. Regardless of the intensive work that has been done in the field of sustainability schemes and principles concerning use of biomass for energy, weaknesses still exist. The objective of Paper V was to clarify the alternative scenarios for the international biomass market until 2020 and identify the underlying steps needed toward a wellfunctioning and sustainable market for biomass for energy purposes. An overall conclusion drawn from this analysis concerns the enormous opportunities related to the utilisation of biomass for energy in the coming decades.

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The birth of Internet technologies, the developments of fast fashion and multiple retailing channels have created a need for a new, more integrated way for doing retailing. Agility in fast fashion retailing could be seen as a significant way of responding to these changes and furthermore, as a way to respond to consumers’ altering demands. The purpose of this study was to explore the ways in which agile supply chains and integrated multichannel retailing influence the international fast fashion retailing. A framework for agility in retail was developed based on available theoretical considerations in distribution and communication channels. Qualitative research methods and qualitative content analysis were used. Four expert interviews were carried out to gain new perspectives to the objectives. The rest of the data was collected from an industry specific document, expert video and two expert lectures. Following the data collection, the research material was analyzed with qualitative content analysis. The empirical findings on agility in retail were presented based on a coding frame. It was found that agility in retail has multiple parts, which are overlapping and affecting one another. Furthermore, instead of viewing the agile supply chain and integrated multichannel retailing separately of each other as usual, it was found that they should be integrated, and the term “agility” was proposed to denote this approach. Also, it was found that the most common drivers and constrains of integrated multichannel retailing were the new Internet technologies and customer demand. Brick-and-mortar store, online store, mobile devices and social media were found to be the most common retailing channels. Furthermore, in-store technology, click-and-collect approach, NFC-buying, RFID-technology as well as 3D- digital simulations on fabrics and patterns will enhance agility even more in the future. In addition, environmental issues, customer experiences and communication will be important factors. This study has provided new practical insights for the future retailing. Furthermore, it has contributed to the academic research by discussing the traditional approaches of agility in fast fashion retail and bringing in new insights.

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Mass-produced paper electronics (large area organic printed electronics on paper-based substrates, “throw-away electronics”) has the potential to introduce the use of flexible electronic applications in everyday life. While paper manufacturing and printing have a long history, they were not developed with electronic applications in mind. Modifications to paper substrates and printing processes are required in order to obtain working electronic devices. This should be done while maintaining the high throughput of conventional printing techniques and the low cost and recyclability of paper. An understanding of the interactions between the functional materials, the printing process and the substrate are required for successful manufacturing of advanced devices on paper. Based on the understanding, a recyclable, multilayer-coated paper-based substrate that combines adequate barrier and printability properties for printed electronics and sensor applications was developed in this work. In this multilayer structure, a thin top-coating consisting of mineral pigments is coated on top of a dispersion-coated barrier layer. The top-coating provides well-controlled sorption properties through controlled thickness and porosity, thus enabling optimizing the printability of functional materials. The penetration of ink solvents and functional materials stops at the barrier layer, which not only improves the performance of the functional material but also eliminates potential fiber swelling and de-bonding that can occur when the solvents are allowed to penetrate into the base paper. The multi-layer coated paper under consideration in the current work consists of a pre-coating and a smoothing layer on which the barrier layer is deposited. Coated fine paper may also be used directly as basepaper, ensuring a smooth base for the barrier layer. The top layer is thin and smooth consisting of mineral pigments such as kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate, silica or blends of these. All the materials in the coating structure have been chosen in order to maintain the recyclability and sustainability of the substrate. The substrate can be coated in steps, sequentially layer by layer, which requires detailed understanding and tuning of the wetting properties and topography of the barrier layer versus the surface tension of the top-coating. A cost competitive method for industrial scale production is the curtain coating technique allowing extremely thin top-coatings to be applied simultaneously with a closed and sealed barrier layer. The understanding of the interactions between functional materials formulated and applied on paper as inks, makes it possible to create a paper-based substrate that can be used to manufacture printed electronics-based devices and sensors on paper. The multitude of functional materials and their complex interactions make it challenging to draw general conclusions in this topic area. Inevitably, the results become partially specific to the device chosen and the materials needed in its manufacturing. Based on the results, it is clear that for inks based on dissolved or small size functional materials, a barrier layer is beneficial and ensures the functionality of the printed material in a device. The required active barrier life time depends on the solvents or analytes used and their volatility. High aspect ratio mineral pigments, which create tortuous pathways and physical barriers within the barrier layer limit the penetration of solvents used in functional inks. The surface pore volume and pore size can be optimized for a given printing process and ink through a choice of pigment type and coating layer thickness. However, when manufacturing multilayer functional devices, such as transistors, which consist of several printed layers, compromises have to be made. E.g., while a thick and porous top-coating is preferable for printing of source and drain electrodes with a silver particle ink, a thinner and less absorbing surface is required to form a functional semiconducting layer. With the multilayer coating structure concept developed in this work, it was possible to make the paper substrate suitable for printed functionality. The possibility of printing functional devices, such as transistors, sensors and pixels in a roll-to-roll process on paper is demonstrated which may enable introducing paper for use in disposable “onetime use” or “throwaway” electronics and sensors, such as lab-on-strip devices for various analyses, consumer packages equipped with product quality sensors or remote tracking devices.

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Consumers’ increasing awareness of healthiness and sustainability of food presents a great challenge to food industry to develop healthier, biologically active and sustainable food products. Bioactive peptides derived from food proteins are known to possess various biological activities. Among the activities, the most widely studied are antioxidant activities and angiotensin I converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitory activity related to blood pressure regulation and antihypertensive effects. Meanwhile, vast amounts of byproducts with high protein content are produced in food industry, for example potato and rapeseed industries. The utilization of these by-products could be enhanced by using them as a raw material for bioactive peptides. The objective of the present study was to investigate the production of bioactive peptides with ACE inhibitory and antioxidant properties from rapeseed and potato proteins. Enzymatic hydrolysis and fermentation were utilized for peptide production, ultrafiltration and solid-phase extraction were used to concentrate the active peptides, the peptides were fractionated with liquid chromatographic processes, and the peptides with the highest ACE inhibitory capacities were putified and analyzed with Maldi-Tof/Tof to identify the active peptide sequences. The bioavailability of the ACE inhibitory peptides was elucidated with an in vitro digestion model and the antihypertensive effects in vivo of rapeseed peptide concentrates were investigated with a preventive premise in 2K1C rats. The results showed that rapeseed and potato proteins are rich sources of ACE inhibitory and antioxidant peptides. Enzymatic hydrolysis released the peptides effectively whereas fermentation produced lower activities.The native enzymes of potato were also able to release ACE inhibitory peptides from potato proteins without the addition of exogenous enzymes. The rapeseed peptide concentrate was capable of preventing the development of hypertension in vivo in 2K1C rats, but the quality of rapeseed meal used as raw material was found to affect considerably the antihypertensive effects and the composition of the peptide fraction.

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The focus of the research is on the derivation of the valid and reliable performance results regarding establishment and launching of the new full-scale industrial facility, considering the overall current conditions for the project realization in and out of Russia. The study demonstrates the process of the new facility concept development, with following perfor-mance calculation, comparative analyzes conduction, life-cycle simulations, performance indicators derivation and project`s sustainability evaluation. To unite and process the entire input parameters complexity, regards the interlacing between the project`s internal technical and commercial sides on the one hand, and consider all the specifics of the Russian conditions for doing business on the other hand, was developed the unique model for the project`s performance calculation, simulations and results representation. The complete research incorporates all corresponding data to substantiate the assigned facility`s design, sizing and output capacity for high quality and cost efficient ferrous pipe-line accessories manufacturing, as well as, demonstrates that this project could be suc-cessfully realized in current conditions in Russia and highlights the room for significant performance and sustainability improvements based on the indexes of the derived KPIs.

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The economy, under the condition of scarcity is meanwhile aiming at more rational economic activities that are efficient and effective. Companies need to know how to make use of new possibilities towards a more sustainable business. The right balance between risk and opportunity implies a sustainable growth and competitive advantage. Managers need to navigate companies across the globalization, as the global economy is constantly in motion. Further, companies have to face trends since the business world is changing radically. In order to keep up with those changes, companies have to recognize new trends early and respond quickly, efficiently and smart. To gain a competitive edge is without a doubt a critical aspect of a comprehensive value creation economy that withstands the demand for value capture and sustainability. Expectations towards a responsible economy are growing steadily. Therefore, companies have increasingly an obligation to economize more sustainable and to communicate their social and environmental commitment externally. Sustainability can live through the entire structure of value creation of a company. By reducing environmental and social risks companies can create values. This value creation thus represents a proper performance of a company and the accomplished added value through companies’ activities.

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Press forming is nowadays one of the most common industrial methods in use for producing deeper trays from paperboard. Demands for material properties like recyclability and sustainability have increased also in the packaging industry, but there are still limitations related to the formability of paperboard. A majority of recent studies have focused on material development, but the potential of the package manufacturing process can also be improved by the development of tooling and process control. In this study, advanced converting tools (die cutting tools and the press forming mould) are created for production scale paperboard tray manufacturing. Also monitoring methods that enable the production of paperboard trays with enhanced quality, and can be utilized in process control are developed. The principles for tray blank preparation, including creasing pattern and die cutting tool design are introduced. The mould heating arrangement and determination of mould clearance are investigated to improve the quality of the press formed trays. The effect of the spring back of the tray walls on the tray dimensions can be managed by adjusting the heat-related process parameters and estimating it at the mould design stage. This enables production speed optimization as the process parameters can be adjusted more freely. Real-time monitoring of pressing force by using multiple force sensors embedded in the mould structure can be utilized in the evaluation of material characteristics on a modified production machinery. Comprehensive process control can be achieved with a combination of measurement of the outer dimensions of the trays and pressing force monitoring. The control method enables detection of defects and tracking changes in the material properties. The optimized converting tools provide a basis for effective operation of the control system.

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Today, companies need to mind the environment in all their actions. Policies, regulations and growing pressure from environmentally conscious public are driving corporations to invest increasingly in their green images. Communication plays a key role in forming and maintaining that image. This thesis explores how six selected companies communicate about their environmental efforts and activities, and its linkage to their green images, in annual and sustainability reports and in Facebook. The companies come from the U.S. and Europe and operate in three different industries: ICT, oil and gas, and aerospace & defense. Qualitative and quantitative content analyses are conducted to examine 36 reports and 121 Facebook messages, collected from the period of 2010-2014, and from 2005 for comparison. The results show that although the quality and quantity of environmental disclosure is increasing, there is still room for improvement. Overall, disclosure in the ICT sector is on the highest level. The European companies disclose more and on average have stronger green images than the American ones. Emissions and ways to reduce them is by far the most covered topic in both continents and in all three industry sectors. The messages in Facebook are closer to advertising, and overall the platform is utilized surprisingly little.

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The purpose of this exploratory investigation was to provide a more precise understanding and basis from which to assess the potential role of the precautionary principle in tourism. The precautionary principle, analogous to the ideal of sustainable development, is a future-focused planning and regulatory mechanism that emphasizes pro-action and recognizes the limitations of contemporary scientific methods. A total of 100 respondents (80 tourism academics, 20 regional government tourism officials) from Canada, United States, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand completed the webbased survey between May and June 2003. Respondents reported their understanding of the precautionary principle, rated stakeholder involvement and education strategies, assessed potential barriers in implementation, and appraised steps of a proposed fi-amework for implementation. Due to low sub sample numbers, measures of central tendency were primarily used to compare groups, while inferential statistics were applied when warranted. Results indicated that most respondents (79%) felt the principle could be a guiding principle for tourism, while local and regional government entities were reported to have the most power in the implementation process. Findings suggested close links between the precautionary principle and sustainability, as concern for future generations was the most critical element of the principle for tourism. Overall, tourism academics were more supportive of the precautionary principle in tourism than were regional government tourism officials. Only minor variation was found in responses among regional groups across all variables. This study established basic ground for understanding the precautionary principle in tourism and has been effective in formulating more precise questions for future research.

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The purpose of my research was to contribute to the improvement and sustainability of the Special Needs Activity Program, and develop program implementation strategies that had practical outcomes. I conducted an evaluative case study of S.N.A.P in order to determine what a quality adapted physical activity (APA) program is, why S.N.A.P is considered a quality APA program, and what institutional policies and practices exist to support it. Data was collected via interviews, questionnaires, and observations. Data analysis involved inductive and deductive methods, and a SWOTAR evaluation. Results indicate that quality APA programs include: ‘people’, ‘environment’, and ‘expectations’; there are benefits of experiential learning; activity stations that promote creativity are valuable; several stakeholders do not know the details about S.N.A.P but recognize its value; the institution values what S.N.A.P provides, yet, there is nothing being done to sustain it. Future research should investigate the feasibility of implementing S.N.A.P in various contexts.

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The Portuguese community is one of the largest diasporic groups in the Greater Toronto Area and the choice of retention and transmission of language and culture to Luso-Canadians is crucial to the development and sustainability of the community. The overall objective of this study is to learn about the factors that influence Luso-Canadian mothers’ inclination to teach Portuguese language and cultural retention to their children. To explore this topic I employed a qualitative research design that included in-depth interviews conducted in 2012 with six Luso-Canadian mothers. Three central arguments emerged from the findings. First, Luso-Canadian mothers interviewed posses a pronounced desire for their children to succeed academically, and to provide opportunities that their children that they did not have. Second, five of the mothers attempt to achieve this mothering objective partly by disconnecting from their Portuguese roots, and by disassociating their children from the Portuguese language and culture. Third, the disconnection they experience and enact is influenced by the divisions evident in the Portuguese community in the GTA that divides regions and hierarchically ranks dialects, and groups. I conclude that the children in these households inevitably bear the prospects of maintaining a vibrant Portuguese community in the GTA and I propose that actions by the community in ranking dialects influence mothers’ decisions about transmitting language and culture to their children.

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his paper explores how participation and sustainability are being addressed by architects within the Building Schools for the Future (BSF) programme in the UK. The intentions promoted by the programme are certainly ambitious, but the ways to fulfil these aims are ill-explored. Simply focusing on providing innovative learning technologies, or indeed teaching young people about physical sustainability features in buildings, will not necessarily teach them the skills they will need to respond to the environmental and social challenges of a rapidly changing world. However, anticipating those skills is one of the most problematic issues of the programme. The involvement of young people in the design of schools is used to suggest empowerment, place-making and to promote social cohesion but this is set against government design literature which advocates for exemplars, standard layouts and best practice, all leading to forms of standardisation. The potentials for tokenistic student involvement and conflict with policy aims are evident. This paper explores two issues: how to foster in young people an ethic towards future generations, and the role of co-design practices in this process. Michael Oakeshott calls teaching the conversation of mankind. In this paper, I look at the philosophy of Hannah Arendt, Emmanuel Levinas, Maurice Merleau-Ponty and Luce Irigaray to argue that investigating the ethical dilemmas of the programme through critical dialogue with students offers an approach to meeting government objectives, building sustainable schools, and fostering sustainable citizenship.

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Ce petit échantillon d’une étude ethnographique, fait à partir de la méthode d’observation participante, interroge la nature de la tendance de la mode auprès de jeunes citadins au coeur d'un centre urbain francophone du Canada. Les participants identifient un « look » comme étant emblématique du Plateau, un arrondissement de Montréal qui est démographiquement divers et contenant beaucoup de commerces dynamiques. Le Plateau a été promu par les organisations de la ville de Montréal comme le point central de la mode, arts et culture. Locaux ou simples touristes voient le Plateau comme un environnement aidant à la transformation personnelle et à l’autoréalisation, particulièrement chez les locaux de 18-30 ans. Plus particulièrement, les membres appartenant à cette tranche d’âge conçoivent leurs propres interprétations de la mode et participent à un certains nombres de projets créatifs en vue de réaliser d’authentiques et véritables expressions de soi. Cependant, à cause de la commercialisation de la mode présentée pour les consommateurs du Plateau, la jeune population perçoit le courant dominant du « hipster » comme n’étant plus l’authentique représentation à leur course à l’authenticité individuelle dans un monde en perpétuel globalisation. La chercheuse a découvert l’existence d’une idéologie de l’individu restreint à ce quartier. Vu l’animosité présente parmi la population locale du Plateau pour le courant principal hipster, l’ensemble de ces données montrent qu’il y a un besoin d’une meilleure compréhension de la relation entre la commercialisation de la mode occidentale et de ces acheteurs au niveau de l’individu et au niveau local dans les espaces urbaine en perpétuel globalisation. Le contexte de la mode dans cet environnement est contraint par l’hypothèse de la valeur qu'être différent est imaginé et digne d’intérêt dans cette communauté si et seulement si quelqu’un est confiant au point de se tenir debout avec ses idéaux au milieu des autres.

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Nowadays there is a growing environmental concern and the business communities have slowly started recognising environmental protection and sustainable utilization of natural resources into their marketing strategies. This paper discusses the various Ecolabeling and Certification Systems developed world over to regulate and introduce Fair Trade in Ornamental Fish Industry. Ecolabeling and green certification are considered as part of these strategies implemented partly out of compulsion from the National and International Regulatory Bodies and Environmental Movements. All the major markets of ornamental fishes like European Union, USA and Japan have started putting restrictions on the trade to impose ecolabeling as a non tariff barrier like the one imposed on seafood and aqua cultured products. A review was done on the available Ecolabeling and Green Certification Schemes available at local, national and international levels for fisheries including aquaculture and ornamental fish trade and to examine the success and constraints faced by these schemes during its implementation. The primary downside of certification is the multiplicity of ecolabels and cost incurred by applicants for certification, costs which may in turn be passed on to consumers. The studies reveal serious inadequacies in a number of ecolabels and cast doubt on their overall contribution to effective fisheries management and sustainability. The paper also discusses the inititive taken in India to develop guidelines for Green Certification of Fresh water ornamental fishes.

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On-farm experiments and pot trials were conducted on eight West African soils to explore the mechanisms governing the often reported legume rotation-induced cereal growth increases in this region. Crops comprised pearl millet (Pennisetum glaucum L.), sorghum (Sorghum bicolor Moench), maize (Zea mays L.), cowpea (Vigna unguiculata Walp.) and groundnut (Arachis hypogaea L.). In groundnut trials the observed 26 to 85% increases in total dry matter (TDM) of rotation cereals (RC) compared with continuous cereals (CC) in the 4th year appeared to be triggered by site- and crop-specific early season differences in nematode infestation (up to 6-fold lower in RC than in CC), enhanced Nmin and a 7% increase in mycorrhizal (AM) infection. In cowpea trials yield effects on millet and differences in nematode numbers, Nmin and AM were much smaller. Rhizosphere studies indicated effects on pH and acid phosphatase activity as secondary causes for the observed growth differences between RC and CC. In the study region legume-rotation effects on cereals seemed to depend on the capability of the legume to suppress nematodes and to enhance early N and P availability for the subsequent cereal.