A modelagem tridimensional como implemento do processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Diretrizes metodológicas para o projeto de produtos de moda no âmbito acadêmico

Pós-graduação em Design - FAAC

Modelagem plana industrial do vestuário: diretrizes para a indústria do vestuário e o ensino-aprendizado

The work shows the importance of process modeling in industrial flat field fashion design. This was achieved by a qualitative study identifying vision of modelers, students and teachers about this stage of development and production clothing product in the regional center of Londrina – PR. This research allowed the development of methodological guidelines for the teaching and preparation Modeling Industrial flat clothing.

Estratégias construtivas para a configuração do produto de moda

This article approaches possibilities and strategies of building to development of fashion product. It investigates the application of different constructive resources of textile materials of same composition and trim, establishing for this parameters of formal similarity. The conception of products process is conducted by three-dimensional expression, which allows the steps for creating and delivering happen simultaneously. Three-dimensional modeling techniques enable the buildings that are structured by the following features investigated: intervention in the textile surface, insertion of independent elements, and different confection resolutions. The results instigate reflection about the processes involved.

The Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Naturally-pigmented Cotton

Textile Technology: The sun-blocking properties of a textile are enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant, or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. For this reason, dyed fabrics provide better sun protection than bleached fabrics. Since naturally-colored cottons contain pigments that produce shades ranging from light green to tan and brown, it seemed reasonable to postulate that they would provide better sun protection than conventional bleached cotton, and that natural pigments might prove more durable to laundering and light exposure than dyes, but there is no published research on the ultraviolet transmission values for naturally-pigmented cottons. The purpose of this study was to determine the ultraviolet protection (UPF) values of naturally-pigmented cotton in three shades (green, tan, and brown), and the effect of light exposure and laundering on the sun-blocking properties of naturally-pigmented cotton. Naturally-pigmented cotton specimens were exposed to xenon light and accelerated laundering, ultraviolet transmission values measured, and UPF values calculated following light exposure and laundering. The naturally-pigmented cottons exhibited significantly higher UPF values than conventional cotton (bleached or unbleached). Although xenon light exposure and laundering caused some fading, the UPF values of naturally-pigmented cotton continue to be sufficiently high so that all three shades continue to provide good sun protection after the equivalent of 5 home launderings and 80 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists fading units (AFUs) of xenon light exposure.

Discovering Memory and Meaning in Quilts

After an extensive search Ardis and Robert James, quilt collectors from Chappaqua, New York, chose the University of Nebraska–Lincoln (UNL) as the home for their collection of almost a thousand quilts. They also supported the formation of the International Quilt Study Center (IQSC) in 1997 for the interdisciplinary study of quiltmaking traditions through the collection, conservation and exhibition of quilts and related materials. Carolyn Ducey and Patricia Crews, the Center’s curator and director, respectively, write about some of the work they do.

Le mostre di moda contemporanee come dispositivo testuale

La tesi si pone come obiettivo quello di indagare le mostre di moda contemporanee come macchine testuali. Se consideriamo l’attuale panorama del fashion design come caratterizzato da una complessità costitutiva e da rapidi mutamenti che lo attraversano, e se partiamo dal presupposto che lo spettro di significati che uno stile di abbigliamento e i singoli capi possono assumere è estremamente sfuggente, probabilmente risulta più produttivo interrogarsi su come funziona la moda, su quali sono i suoi meccanismi di produzione di significato. L’analisi delle fashion exhibition si rivela quindi un modo utile per affrontare la questione, dato che gli allestimenti discorsivizzano questi meccanismi e rappresentano delle riflessioni tridimensionali attorno a temi specifici. La mostra di moda mette in scena delle eccezionalità che magnificano aspetti tipici del funzionamento del fashion system, sia se ci rivolgiamo alla moda dal punto di vista della produzione, sia se la consideriamo dal punto di vista della fruizione. L’indagine ha rintracciato nelle mostre curate da Diana Vreeland al Costume Institute del Metropolitan Museum di New York il modello di riferimento per le mostre di moda contemporanee. Vreeland, che dal 1936 al 1971 è stata prima fashion editor e poi editor-in-chief rispettivamente di “Harper’s Bazaar” e di “Vogue USA”, ha segnato un passaggio fondamentale quando nel 1972 ha deciso di accettare il ruolo di Special Consultant al Costume Institute. È ormai opinione diffusa fra critici e studiosi di moda che le mostre da lei organizzate nel corso di più di un decennio abbiano cambiato il modo di mettere in scena i vestiti nei musei. Al lavoro di Vreeland abbiamo poi accostato una recente mostra di moda che ha fatto molto parlare di sé: Spectres. When Fashion Turns Back, a cura di Judith Clark (2004). Nell’indagare i rapporti fra il fashion design contemporaneo e la storia della moda questa mostra ha utilizzato macchine allestitive abitate dai vestiti, per “costruire idee spaziali” e mettere in scena delle connessioni non immediate fra passato e presente. Questa mostra ci è sembrata centrale per evidenziare lo sguardo semiotico del curatore nel suo interrogarsi sul progetto complessivo dell’exhibition design e non semplicemente sullo studio degli abiti in mostra. In questo modo abbiamo delineato due posizioni: una rappresentata da un approccio object-based all’analisi del vestito, che si lega direttamente alla tradizione dei conservatori museali; l’altra rappresentata da quella che ormai si può considerare una disciplina, il fashion curation, che attribuisce molta importanza a tutti gli aspetti che concorrono a formare il progetto allestitivo di una mostra. Un lavoro comparativo fra alcune delle più importanti mostre di moda recentemente organizzate ci ha permesso di individuare elementi ricorrenti e specificità di questi dispositivi testuali. Utilizzando il contributo di Manar Hammad (2006) abbiamo preso in considerazione i diversi livelli di una mostra di moda: gli abiti e il loro rapporto con i manichini; l’exhibition design e lo spazio della mostra; il percorso e la sequenza, sia dal punto di vista della strategia di costruzione e dispiegamento testuale, sia dal punto di vista del fruitore modello. Abbiamo così individuato quattro gruppi di mostre di moda: mostre museali-archivistiche; retrospettive monografiche; mostre legate alla figura di un curatore; forme miste che si posizionano trasversalmente rispetto a questi primi tre modelli. Questa sistematizzazione ha evidenziato che una delle dimensione centrali per le mostre di moda contemporanee è proprio la questione della curatorship, che possiamo leggere in termini di autorialità ed enunciazione. Si sono ulteriormente chiariti anche gli orizzonti valoriali di riferimento: alla dimensione dell’accuratezza storica è associata una mostra che predilige il livello degli oggetti (gli abiti) e un coinvolgimento del visitatore puramente visivo; alla dimensione del piacere visivo possiamo invece associare un modello di mostra che assegna all’exhibition design un ruolo centrale e “chiede” al visitatore di giocare un ruolo pienamente interattivo. L’approccio curatoriale più compiuto ci sembra essere quello che cerca di conciliare queste due dimensioni.

Percorsi di gender performance: fotografia tra arte e moda dagli anni Novanta ad oggi

My project explores and compares different forms of gender performance in contemporary art and visual culture according to a perspective centered on photography. Thanks to its attesting power this medium can work as a ready-made. In fact during the 20th century it played a key role in the cultural emancipation of the body which (using a Michel Foucault’s expression) has now become «the zero point of the world». Through performance the body proves to be a living material of expression and communication while photography ensures the recording of any ephemeral event that happens in time and space. My questioning approach considers the gender constructed imagery from the 1990s to the present in order to investigate how photography’s strong aura of realism promotes and allows fantasies of transformation. The contemporary fascination with gender (especially for art and fashion) represents a crucial issue in the global context of postmodernity and is manifested in a variety of visual media, from photography to video and film. Moreover the internet along with its digital transmission of images has deeply affected our world (from culture to everyday life) leading to a postmodern preference for performativity over the more traditional and linear forms of narrativity. As a consequence individual borders get redefined by the skin itself which (dissected through instant vision) turns into a ductile material of mutation and hybridation in the service of identity. My critical assumptions are taken from the most relevant changes occurred in philosophy during the last two decades as a result of the contributions by Jacques Lacan, Michel Foucault, Jacques Derrida, Gilles Deleuze who developed a cross-disciplinary and comparative approach to interpret the crisis of modernity. They have profoundly influenced feminist studies so that the category of gender has been reassessed in contrast with sex (as a biological connotation) and in relation to history, culture, society. The ideal starting point of my research is the year 1990. I chose it as the approximate historical moment when the intersection of race, class and gender were placed at the forefront of international artistic production concerned with identity, diversity and globalization. Such issues had been explored throughout the 1970s but it was only from the mid-1980s onward that they began to be articulated more consistently. Published in 1990, the book "Gender trouble: feminism and the subversion of identity" by Judith Butler marked an important breakthrough by linking gender to performance as well as investigating the intricate connections between theory and practice, embodiment and representation. It inspired subsequent research in a variety of disciplines, art history included. In the same year Teresa de Lauretis launched the definition of queer theory to challenge the academic perspective in gay and lesbian studies. In the meantime the rise of Third Wave Feminism in the US introduced a racially and sexually inclusive vision over the global situation in order to reflect on subjectivity, new technologies and popular culture in connection with gender representation. These conceptual tools have enabled prolific readings of contemporary cultural production whether fine arts or mass media. After discussing the appropriate framework of my project and taking into account the postmodern globalization of the visual, I have turned to photography to map gender representation both in art and in fashion. Therefore I have been creating an archive of images around specific topics. I decided to include fashion photography because in the 1990s this genre moved away from the paradigm of an idealized and classical beauty toward a new vernacular allied with lifestyles, art practices, pop and youth culture; as one might expect the dominant narrative modes in fashion photography are now mainly influenced by cinema and snapshot. These strategies originate story lines and interrupted narratives using models’ performance to convey a particular imagery where identity issues emerge as an essential part of fashion spectacle. Focusing on the intersections of gender identities with socially and culturally produced identities, my approach intends to underline how the fashion world has turned to current trends in art photography and in some case turned to the artists themselves. The growing fluidity of the categories that distinguish art from fashion photography represents a particularly fruitful moment of visual exchange. Varying over time the dialogue between these two fields has always been vital; nowadays it can be studied as a result of this close relationship between contemporary art world and consumer culture. Due to the saturation of postmodern imagery the feedback between art and fashion has become much more immediate and then increasingly significant for anyone who wants to investigate the construction of gender identity through performance. In addition to that a lot of magazines founded in the 1990s bridged the worlds of art and fashion because some of their designers and even editors were art-school graduates encouraging innovation. The inclusion of art within such magazines aimed at validating them as a form of art in themselves supporting a dynamic intersection for music, fashion, design and youth culture: an intersection that also contributed to create and spread different gender stereotypes. This general interest in fashion produced many exhibitions of and about fashion itself at major international venues such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York. Since then this celebrated success of fashion has been regarded as a typical element of postmodern culture. Owing to that I have also based my analysis on some important exhibitions dealing with gender performance like "Féminin-Masculin" at the Centre Pompidou of Paris (1995), "Rrose is a Rrose is a Rrose. Gender performance in photography" at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum of New York (1997), "Global Feminisms" at the Brooklyn Museum (2007), "Female Trouble" at the Pinakothek der Moderne in München together with the workshops dedicated to "Performance: gender and identity" in June 2005 at the Tate Modern of London. Since 2003 in Italy we have had Gender Bender - an international festival held annually in Bologna - to explore the gender imagery stemming from contemporary culture. In few days this festival offers a series of events ranging from visual arts, performance, cinema, literature to conferences and music. Being aware that any method of research is neither race nor gender neutral I have traced these critical paths to question gender identity in a multicultural perspective taking account of the political implications too. In fact, if visibility may be equated with exposure, we can also read these images as points of intersection of visibility with social power. Since gender assignations rely so heavily on the visual, the postmodern dismantling of gender certainty through performance has wide-ranging effects that need to be analyzed. In some sense this practice can even contest the dominance of visual within postmodernism. My visual map in contemporary art and fashion photography includes artists like Nan Goldin, Cindy Sherman, Hellen van Meene, Rineke Dijkstra, Ed Templeton, Ryan McGinley, Anne Daems, Miwa Yanagi, Tracey Moffat, Catherine Opie, Tomoko Sawada, Vanessa Beecroft, Yasumasa Morimura, Collier Schorr among others.

Entrevista a Angela McRobbie : los estudios culturales y el imperativo de entender y explicar los cambios sociales

Angela McRobbie es socióloga y dirige el Departamento de Comunicación en Goldsmiths College, Universidad de Londres. En la actualidad, se encuentra entre las referentes más destacadas de los Estudios Culturales británicos. Ha publicado numerosos ensayos en revistas internacionales sobre problemáticas vinculadas con la juventud, los estilos musicales y los consumos culturales, así como ha indagado en los cambios sociales y políticos ocurridos desde los tiempos del thatcherismo. Entre sus libros, sobresalen: Postmodernism and Popular Culture (Routledge, 1994); Feminism and Youth Culture (Macmillan, 1994); Back to Reality? Social Experience and Cultural Studies (Manchester University Press, 1997); British Fashion Design (1998), In the Culture Society. Art, Fashion and Popular Music (Routledge, 1999) y compiló junto a Paul Gilroy y Lawrence Grossberg, Without Guarantees. In Honour of Stuart Hall (Verso, 2000), con motivo del retiro de éste de la Open University en 1997.

The PVC Beret

Dip moulded plastic beret. One of a series starting from Jelly Beret 1997.This was made with a UK with the design company Inflate. This 2009 iteration of the PVC beret chosen for Stephen Jones Hat Anthology V&A, the first millinery exhibition of millinery design held at V&A. Whereas traditional millinery is known for its rather staid and bourgeois Stephen Jones selected chose this hat for its edgy sub cultural capital.This is reflected in the choices of materials and beret style with a reference to the Bohemien Parisienne avant garde revisited in 1960s London and made new for 21st century NY "Jelly Beret" the very first prototype of a plastic millinery Reviewed in Vogue UK, this travelling exhibition went from London, New York, Sydney to add exists at the V&A as a touring show. An accompanying catalogue by Oriole Cullen and Stephen Jones discusses the significance of innovative and original millinery design international design culture today.

Thermobonded Fabrics

In 2009 Avella created a series of innovative fabrics for the Yves St Laurent (YSL) collection, deploying techniques from vehicle engineering to generate new materials for a range of garments. Studying the bonding of layers of material in ceramic plate thermobonding technology, Avella conducted a series of experiments with textiles such as flannel, silk and synthetics, and material such as leather, layered with polyamide foam and textile substrate to create new, textured and insulating fabrics with beautiful surfaces and interesting forms. The lightweight properties of the foam enabled the maximum insulation/weight ratio, and the panel moulding technology brought new forms of draping prêt-a-porter fashion design. Exclusive to YSL, this technique was patented and then shown at the Premiere Vision textiles trade fair in 2010. Much documented in specialist journals this innovation also breached the trade-culture barrier and was reported and documented in mainstream newspapers (New York Herald Tribune). Avella’s background in textile workshop studio experimentation at the RCA brought to YSL textiles research for manufacture, the innovative collaboration between fashion couture and engineering laboratory experiments from vehicle design.

House of Flora (illustrations)

McLean builds strong connections between the cultural capital of the Jerwood prizewinning craft maker and the world of business and trade. It is crucial that higher education research can consider its relationship to the creative industries. London is a fashion capital, known for its style experimentation and playful creativity. The wit and anarchic play of the art school is a leading force in fashion innovation and Mclean's work articulates this clearly. Designing hats that reference the stylised coiffures of Hollywood icons, in the soft medium of felted wool, is a sophisticated play on the relations between nature and culture that, according to Levi Straus, are at the heart of all culture. The Fifty Hats that Changed the World makes direct allusion to the way that fashion is often regarded with mild disdain as insignificant or trivial, and the Design Museum London, an international leader in disseminating design discourse has, recently, included fashion design within its agenda for exhibition. McLean's work is a leading component of this transformation of design culture.

Sunray etched Visors for the Jamaican Olympic Team in three colours: yellow, green and black

Design for visors for the delegation from Jamaica to the London Olympic Games 2012. This design was commissioned by PUMA 2012 based on McLean's designs featured in the website House of Flora, which functions as a space of display, archive, folio, point of sale and dissemination. The McLean standard design for visors is a component of the avant garde, pret a porter millinery, accessory design collections, and stylistically customised for the Jamaican team. McLean's oeuvre is original in its integration of the experimental traditions of art school workshop culture with the professional demands of fashion manufacture and trade culture. Combining the innovation of the postmodern urban artisan with the exacting demands of industrial production, dissemination and distribution McLean's design work spans the disparate worlds of national art collections such as the Victoria and Albert Museum (A Hat Anthology Exhibition, and catalogue 2009), London Design Museum ( Fifty Hats that Changed the World 2009). Integrating design considerations of multiple and mass production with the stylistic considerations of the studio workshop McLean brings the wit of the avant garde urban artisan to the structures and systems of fashion industry. The designs reach to a global audience as product users, as well as to the international connoisseurship of crafts and design specialists. The rigour of McLean's research and innovation is evident in the specificity of the stylistic references made through her selection of materials, processes, form, colour and symbolism. A range of cultural references cite the rich fusion of early twentieth century modernist culture in which the disparate worlds of popular, proletarian, culture fertilised the stylistic austerity of high modern formalism. McLean here considers the relationship between millinery and coiffure, following from the millinery piece featured in (Marcel bobbed hairpiece hat), and now brings the considerations of ethnic difference to bear on her design. Afro hair brings user group specificity to the milliner, and the visor design is a resolution of function and style for both protection and display. Connoting the sartorial conventions of workwear headgear, rather than the nineteenth century colonial 'cricketer's' cap, or the twentieth century US 'baseball' peaked cap, McLean's 'Jamaican Olympic Visor' brings distinctively postcolonial meaning to the cultural profile of the heterotopic media space. Designing for the popular culture of Olympic sports, televised and broadcast to global audiences, brings new forms of agency to the fashion designer, and McLan's design deploys a style that is widely recognisable from other popular culture's film and TV depictions of workwear to mark the distinctive tradition of supremacy that black athletes bring to the European traditions of cultural heritage. Supplanting the Arcadian 'laurels' with which winners are, traditionally, crowned, McLean's visor design innovation, suggests that it is not impossible to challenge and transform apparently timeless hierarchies of power and supremacy, so that ex-slaves may also become victors. McLean's fashion designs all work within this reach of fashion towards the carnivalesque inversion of social orderliness through play, display and sartorial activism.

HATWALK/ Guerilla Millinery/ Part of the Cultural Olympiad

Stealth Visor for the Duke of Wellington Project HATWALK The 2012 Cultural Olympiad would not have been representative of London's creative industries without fashion design. Sponsored by the Mayor of London brought milliners to organise an alternative to the catwalk format , the designers brought together a Hatwalk, uniting landmark heritage statues, classical and modern, to be crowned with a new bespoke design piece each. Together forming a pedestrian navigation through the Jubilee city, the hats also invited twenty one milliners to consider the specificity of working for the great outdoors. Rigorously tested in wind tunnel laboratory to withstand hurricane wind speeds and squally shows the designs aim to bring the 'exclusive' culture of fashion accessories to the inclusive culture of international festival. Working with new technologies of engineering, such as laser measuring tools, and crane for assemblage and fitting, McLean brings new meaning to the familiar figures of national public authority. Since the storming of the Bastille in revolutionary France it has been traditional for the new order to symbolize change through attacking public statuary. In a similar vein, Hatwalk, invites spectators to reconsider the relationship between distant and lofty personages of power and the sartorial insignia through which their power is signified. Crowned with a revolutionary red ' large plexi punk neon number' the Duke of Wellington, at Wellington arch is the first in the Hatwalk exhibition. The originality of this research consists in the effects of surprise and Brechtian 'de familiarisation' resulting from the unexpected. The effects of this structural carnivalesque inversion of authorities can involve a range of reactions from the disdain of the offended to the laughter and pleasure of the surprised. This strategy of bringing the ludic element of play to the formalised authority of legitimised power is also signified through the conscious use of materials and colour in a monochrome and uniform culture of statuary. Here the difference in materials and visible surface of the design signifies the differences that need to be included within a socio political order before it may takes its place in history as being representative of the people it is entrusted to lead. This research output continues the work that led to the Hat Anthology exhibition (output 1), the Fifty Hats that Changed the World (output 2), the Jamaican Olympic team headwear design ( output 4), and is continued in the design, merchandise, accessories and avant garde artefacts of the House of Flora ( see website). The iterative process of the research brings innovation within continuity to McLean's work. It is difficult to theorise the 'rigour' that is undeniably present in a creative design praxis except in that McLean;s research outputs are always surprising and unexpected.

PVC Beret as part of Hats: An Anthology exhibition

Dip moulded plastic PVC beret. One of series starting from Jelly Beret 1997. This was made with the design company Inflate. This 2009 iteration of the PVC beret chosen for Stephen Jones Hat Anthology V&A, the first millinery exhibition of millinery design held at V&A. Whereas traditional millinery is known for its rather staid and bourgoise Stephen Jones selected chose this hat for its edgy sub cultural capital. This is reflected in the choices of materials and beret style with a reference to the Bohemien Parisienne avant garde revisited in 1960s London and made new for 21st century NY. "Jelly Beret" the very first prototype of a plastic millinery, reviewed in Elle 2000. This travelling exhibition went from London, New York, Sydney and exists at the V&A as a touring show. An accompanying catalogue by Oriole Cullen and Stephen Jones discusses the significance of innovative and original millinery design international design culture today.. " “House of Flora is noted for its sculptural and architecturally inspired hats made from technologically innovative materials such as latex,PVC and Perspex” Oriole Cullen