L'application de la spectroscopie Raman en criminalistique pour l'analyse du colorant des fibres textiles en acrylique, coton et laine

RESUME La méthode de la spectroscopie Raman est une technique d'analyse chimique basée sur l'exploitation du phénomène de diffusion de la lumière (light scattering). Ce phénomène fut observé pour la première fois en 1928 par Raman et Krishnan. Ces observations permirent à Raman d'obtenir le Prix Nobel en physique en 1930. L'application de la spectroscopie Raman a été entreprise pour l'analyse du colorant de fibres textiles en acrylique, en coton et en laine de couleurs bleue, rouge et noire. Nous avons ainsi pu confirmer que la technique est adaptée pour l'analyse in situ de traces de taille microscopique. De plus, elle peut être qualifiée de rapide, non destructive et ne nécessite aucune préparation particulière des échantillons. Cependant, le phénomène de la fluorescence s'est révélé être l'inconvénient le plus important. Lors de l'analyse des fibres, différentes conditions analytiques ont été testées et il est apparu qu'elles dépendaient surtout du laser choisi. Son potentiel pour la détection et l'identification des colorants imprégnés dans les fibres a été confirmé dans cette étude. Une banque de données spectrale comprenant soixante colorants de référence a été réalisée dans le but d'identifier le colorant principal imprégné dans les fibres collectées. De plus, l'analyse de différents blocs de couleur, caractérisés par des échantillons d'origine inconnue demandés à diverses personnes, a permis de diviser ces derniers en plusieurs groupes et d'évaluer la rareté des configurations des spectres Raman obtenus. La capacité de la technique Raman à différencier ces échantillons a été évaluée et comparée à celle des méthodes conventionnelles pour l'analyse des fibres textiles, à savoir la micro spectrophotométrie UV-Vis (MSP) et la chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM). La technique Raman s'est révélée être moins discriminatoire que la MSP pour tous les blocs de couleurs considérés. C'est pourquoi dans le cadre d'une séquence analytique nous recommandons l'utilisation du Raman après celle de la méthode d'analyse de la couleur, à partir d'un nombre de sources lasers le plus élevé possible. Finalement, la possibilité de disposer d'instruments équipés avec plusieurs longueurs d'onde d'excitation, outre leur pouvoir de réduire la fluorescence, permet l'exploitation d'un plus grand nombre d'échantillons. ABSTRACT Raman spectroscopy allows for the measurement of the inelastic scattering of light due to the vibrational modes of a molecule when irradiated by an intense monochromatic source such as a laser. Such a phenomenon was observed for the first time by Raman and Krishnan in 1928. For this observation, Raman was awarded with the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1930. The application of Raman spectroscopy has been undertaken for the dye analysis of textile fibers. Blue, black and red acrylics, cottons and wools were examined. The Raman technique presents advantages such as non-destructive nature, fast analysis time, and the possibility of performing microscopic in situ analyses. However, the problem of fluorescence was often encountered. Several aspects were investigated according to the best analytical conditions for every type/color fiber combination. The potential of the technique for the detection and identification of dyes was confirmed. A spectral database of 60 reference dyes was built to detect the main dyes used for the coloration of fiber samples. Particular attention was placed on the discriminating power of the technique. Based on the results from the Raman analysis for the different blocs of color submitted to analyses, it was possible to obtain different classes of fibers according to the general shape of spectra. The ability of Raman spectroscopy to differentiate samples was compared to the one of the conventional techniques used for the analysis of textile fibers, like UV-Vis Microspectrophotometry (UV-Vis MSP) and thin layer chromatography (TLC). The Raman technique resulted to be less discriminative than MSP for every bloc of color considered in this study. Thus, it is recommended to use Raman spectroscopy after MSP and light microscopy to be considered for an analytical sequence. It was shown that using several laser wavelengths allowed for the reduction of fluorescence and for the exploitation of a higher number of samples.

Reduction and Analysis Methods of Indigo

Throughout history indigo was derived from various plants for example Dyer’s Woad (Isatis tinctoria L.) in Europe. In the 19th century were the synthetic dyes developed and nowadays indigo is mainly synthesized from by-products of fossil fuels. Indigo is a so-called vat dye, which means that it needs to be reduced to its water soluble leucoform before dyeing. Nowadays, most of the industrial reduction is performed chemically by sodium dithionite. However, this is considered environmentally unfavourable because of waste waters contaminating degradation products. Therefore there has been interest to find new possibilities to reduce indigo. Possible alternatives for the application of dithionite as the reducing agent are biologically induced reduction and electrochemical reduction. Glucose and other reducing sugars have recently been suggested as possible environmentally friendly alternatives as reducing agents for sulphur dyes and there have also been interest in using glucose to reduce indigo. In spite of the development of several types of processes, very little is known about the mechanism and kinetics associated with the reduction of indigo. This study aims at investigating the reduction and electrochemical analysis methods of indigo and give insight on the reduction mechanism of indigo. Anthraquinone as well as it’s derivative 1,8-dihydroxyanthraquinone were discovered to act as catalysts for the glucose induced reduction of indigo. Anthraquinone introduces a strong catalytic effect which is explained by invoking a molecular “wedge effect” during co-intercalation of Na+ and anthraquinone into the layered indigo crystal. The study includes also research on the extraction of plant-derived indigo from woad and the examination of the effect of this method to the yield and purity of indigo. The purity has been conventionally studied spectrophotometrically and a new hydrodynamic electrode system is introduced in this study. A vibrating probe is used in following electrochemically the leuco-indigo formation with glucose as a reducing agent.

Corantes têxteis

A dye is a colored substance used to impart permanent color to other substances. Its most important use is in coloring textile fibers and fabrics. The removal of colour from dyehouse waste waters is currently a major problem in the textile sector. This paper provides an overview of the treatment technologies that can currently be used by the textile processor and the developments over the past decade with respect to the toxicological and ecotoxicological properties of synthetic organic dyes.

Influence of chloride-mediated oxidation on the electrochemical degradation of the direct black 22 dye using boron-doped diamond and β-PbO2 anodes

The Direct Black 22 dye was electrooxidized at 30 mA cm-2 in a flow cell using a BDD or β-PbO2 anode, varying pH (3, 7, 11), temperature (10, 25, 45 °C), and [NaCl] (0 or 1.5 g L-1). In the presence of NaCl, decolorization rates were similar for all conditions investigated, but much higher than predicted through a theoretical model assuming mass-transport control; similar behavior was observed for COD removal (at pH 7, 25 °C), independently of the anode. With no NaCl, COD removals were also higher than predicted with a theoretical model, which suggests the existence of distinct dye degradation pathways.

Stability and properties of cellulose-sodium hydroxide solution systems

Since cellulose is a linear macromolecule it can be used as a material for regenerated cellulose fiber products e.g. in textile fibers or film manufacturing. Cellulose is not thermoformable, thus the manufacturing of these regenerated fibers is mainly possible through dissolution processes preceding the regeneration process. However, the dissolution of cellulose in common solvents is hindered due to inter- and intra-molecular hydrogen bonds in the cellulose chains, and relatively high crystallinity. Interestingly at subzero temperatures relatively dilute sodium hydroxide solutions can be used to dissolve cellulose to a certain extent. The objective of this work was to investigate the possible factors that govern the solubility of cellulose in aqueous NaOH and the solution stability. Cellulose-NaOH solutions have the tendency to form a gel over time and at elevated temperature, which creates challenges for further processing. The main target of this work was to achieve high solubility of cellulose in aqueous NaOH without excessively compromising the solution stability. In the literature survey an overview of the cellulose dissolution is given and possible factors contributing to the solubility and solution properties of cellulose in aqueous NaOH are reviewed. Furthermore, the concept of solution rheology is discussed. In the experimental part the focus was on the characterization of the used materials and properties of the prepared solutions mainly concentrating on cellulose solubility and solution stability.

Polyamides and polyesters made of bile acids in the main chain

La préparation de polymères à base d’acides biliaires, molécules biologiques, a attiré l'attention des chercheurs en raison des applications potentielles dans les domaines biomédicaux et pharmaceutiques. L’objectif de ce travail est de synthétiser de nouveaux biopolymères dont la chaîne principale est constituée d’unités d’acides biliaires. La polymérisation par étapes a été adoptée dans ce projet afin de préparer les deux principales classes de polymères utilisés en fibres textiles: les polyamides et les polyesters. Des monomères hétéro-fonctionnels à base d’acides biliaires ont été synthétisés et utilisés afin de surmonter le déséquilibre stoechiométrique lors de la polymérisation par étapes. Le dérivé de l’acide lithocholique modifié par une fonction amine et un groupement carboxylique protégé a été polymérisé en masse à températures élevées. Les polyamides obtenus sont très peu solubles dans les solvants organiques. Des polyamides et des polyesters solubles en milieu organique ont pu être obtenus dans des conditions modérées en utilisant l’acide cholique modifié par des groupements azide et alcyne. La polymérisation a été réalisée par cycloaddition azoture-alcyne catalysée par l'intermédiaire du cuivre(Ι) avec deux systèmes catalytiques différents, le bromure de cuivre(I) et le sulfate de cuivre(II). Seul le bromure de cuivre(Ι) s’est avéré être un catalyseur efficace pour le système, permettant la préparation des polymères avec un degré de polymérisation égale à 50 et une distribution monomodale de masse moléculaire (PDI ˂ 1.7). Les polymères synthétisés à base d'acide cholique sont thermiquement stables (307 °C ≤ Td ≤ 372 °C) avec des températures de transition vitreuse élevées (137 °C ≤ Tg ≤ 167 °C) et modules de Young au-dessus de 280 MPa, dépendamment de la nature chimique du lien.

Price, profitability and employment in the handloom industry in kerala

The present study is on the nature, problems and prospects of the handloom industry in Kerala. The problems of the industry are mostly in the nature of low earnings of the workers, underutilisation of the existing capacity and low profit in its various sectors. The majority of the handloom co-operative societies are either dormant or facing liquidation. The income and employment of weavers are so pitiably low that they are living in utter poverty and starvation. Frequent price fluctuations of yarns, dyes and chemicals increase the cost of production and reduce the profitability. Consequently handloom fabrics are not able to compete with mill cloths and powerloom products. Accumulating the unsold stocks in the godowns of co-operative societies and with master weavers has become the practice of the day. Spinning mills in Kerala are producing only lower counts of yarns. S, handloom industry has to depend on textile mills in Tamil Nadu for higher counts of yarn. They create artificial scarcity and increase the prices exflorbitantly. Wage rates prevailing in Kerala are higher than those in Tamil Hadu. So rich master weavers are migrating to Tamil.Nadu and exporting the fabrics. under the label 'Kera1a Handlooms'. Governmental efforts to tackle the crisis by way of rebates and subsidies are found to be futile.

Polymethine cyanine dyes in beta-cyclodextrin solution: multiple equilibria and chemical oxidation

Absorption and fluorescence spectroscopy, electrochemical techniques, and semiempirical calculations were employed to characterize the multiple complexation equilibria between two polymethine cyanine dyes (IR-786 and Indocyanine green-ICG, 5) and beta-cyclodextrin (beta-CD, L), as well as the chemical reactivity of the complexed and uncomplexed species against the oxidizing agents hypochlorite (HC) and hydrogen peroxide (HP). IR-786 dimerization is favored with the increase in beta-CD concentration in the form of (SL)(2) complexes. In the case of ICG, free dimers (D) and SL complexes are favored. Both IR-786 and ICG react and discolor in the presence of HC and HP. For IR-786, the reaction with HP and HC proceeds with observed rate constants of 10(-3) and 0.28 s(-1) and second-order rate constants (k(2)) of similar to 10(-3) and 10(4) M(-1) s(-1), respectively. The intermediate species observed in the bleaching reactions of IR-786 and ICG were shown, by cyclic voltammetry and VIS absorption, to result from one electron oxidation. IR-786 complexed with beta-CD is protected against bleaching in the presence of HP and HC by factors of 20 and 4, respectively. This protection was not observed in ICG complexes. Superdelocalizability profile of both dyes and frontier orbital analysis indicates that beta-CD does not protect ICG from oxidation by HP or HC, whereas the 2:2 IR-786/beta-Cd complex is able to avoid the oxidation of IR-786. We concluded that the decrease in the chemical reactivity of the dyes against oxidant agents in the presence of beta-CD is due to the formation of (SL)(2) complexes. Copyright (C) 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Single-wall carbon nanotubes modified with organic dyes: Synthesis, characterization and potential cytotoxic effects

This work deals with the covalent functionalization of single-wall carbon nanotubes (SWNTs) with phenosafranine (PS) and Nile Blue (NB) dyes. These dyes can act as photosensitizers in energy and electron transfer reactions, with a potential to be applied in photodynamic therapy. Several changes in the characteristic Raman vibrational features of the dyes suggest that a covalent modification of the nanotubes with the organic dyes occurs. Specifically, the vibrational modes assigned to the NH(2) moieties of the dyes are seen to disappear in the SWNT-dye nanocomposites, corroborating the bond formation between amine groups in the dyes and carboxyl groups in the oxidized nanotubes. The X-ray absorption (XANES) data also show, that the intense band at 398.6 eV attributed to 1s -> 2p pi* transition of the nitrogen of the aromatic PS ring, is shifted due to the bonding with the carbonic structure of the SWNTs. The cytotoxicity data of dyes-modified SWNT composites in the presence and absence of light shows that the SWNT-NB (4 mu g/mL) composite presents a good photodynamic effect, namely a low toxicity in the dark, higher toxicity in the presence of light and also a reduced dye photobleaching by auto-oxidation. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Sisal Fibers Treated with NaOH and Benzophenonetetracarboxylic Dianhydride as Reinforcement of Phenolic Matrix

In this work, composites based on a phenolic matrix and untreated- and treated sisal fibers were prepared. The treated sisal fibers used were those reacted with NaOH 2% solution and esterified using benzophenonetetracarboxylic dianhydride (BTDA). These treated fibers were modified with the objective of improving the adhesion of the fiber-matrix interface, which in turn influences the properties of the composites. BTDA was chosen as the esterifying agent to take advantage of the possibility of introducing; the polar and aromatic groups that are also present in the matrix structure into the surface of the fiber, which could then intensify the interactions occurring in the fiber-matrix interface. The fibers were then analyzed by SEM and FTIR to ascertain their chemical composition. The results showed that the fibers had been successfully modified. The composites (reinforced with 15%, w/w of 3.0 cm length sisal fiber randomly distributed) were characterized by SEM, impact strength, and water absorption capacity. In the tests conducted, the response of the composites was affected both by properties of the matrix and the fibers, besides the interfacial properties of the fiber-matrix. Overall, the results showed that the fiber treatment resulted in a composite that was less hygroscopic although with somewhat lower impact strength, when compared with the composite reinforced with untreated sisal fibers. (C) 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 115: 269-276, 2010

Composite materials obtained from textile fiber residue

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Doxazosin Treatment Alters Stromal Cell Behavior and Increases Elastic System Fibers Deposition in Rat Prostate

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Genotoxic, mutagenic and cytotoxic effects of the commercial dye CI Disperse Blue 291 in the human hepatic cell line HepG2

Textile dyes are discarded into the aquatic ecosystem via industrial effluents and potentially expose humans and local biota to adverse effects. The commercial dye CI Disperse Blue 291 which contains the aminoazobenzene 2-[(2-bromo-4,6-dinitrophenyl)azo]-5(diethylamino)-4-methoxyacetanilide (CAS registry no. 56548-64-2), was tested for genotoxicity and cytotoxicity in the human hepatoma cell line HepG2, using the comet assay, micronucleus (MN) test and a cell viability test. Five different concentrations of the test compound were examined: 200 mu g/ml, 400 mu g/ml, 600 mu g/ml, 800 mu g/ml and 1000 mu g/ml. An increase in comet tail length and in the frequency of MN was detected with exposure of cells to concentrations of the commercial dye from 400 pg/ml. Furthermore, the dye was found to decrease cell viability. The results of this study demonstrate for the first time the genotoxic and mutagenic effects of the dye CI Disperse Blue 291 in mammalian cells, thus stressing the need to develop non-mutagenic dyes and to invest in improving the treatment of effluents. These measures will help to prevent harmful effects that these compounds can have on humans and aquatic organisms that come in contact with them. (C) 2007 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Physicochemical characterization of collagen fibers and collagen powder for self-composite film production

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Corantes têxteis

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)