Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

How Can Local Manufacturing Improve Economic Sustainability? Saint Brissant: a case study of local manufacturing in Spain

Fast-fashion retailers and mass production dominate the fashion and apparel industry. Increased globalization, labor intensity and outsourcing to developing countries are fostering the interest in sustainability within the industry. There is a growth of a new movement attempting to offset the demand for fast fashion, "Slow Fashion" movement. Slow fashion is not time-based but quality-based approach in which designers, buyers, retailers and consumers are more aware of the impacts on workers, communities and ecosystems (Fletcher 2007). European Union has also some critical targets to reach by 2020. Spain, specifically, has to meet some requirements in terms of economy and sustainability. This exploratory study analyzed how slow fashion concept, precisely manufacturing locally, could improve economic development. Local manufacturing, its impact on economic development and the challenges of Spanish market are illustrated through a case study of one Spanish fashion brand, Saint Brissant.

Emprendimiento NORNA

La creación de Norna Ltda., motivada por la expansión mundial de la idea del cuidado por el planeta, junto con el avance económico de Colombia se implanta como la base de un movimiento social y cultural que pretende expandirse por el país. Para la empresa, el objetivo principal es realzar el valor de la conservación del medio ambiente, a través de un bien tangible, para evitar la perpetuación de la sostenibilidad ecológica e inclusión social como una idea impalpable. Para confrontar el Statu Quo de la moda rápida que regularmente se encuentra acompañada por condiciones laborales lamentables, Norna ltda., confecciona y distribuye chaquetas a base de algodón orgánico a través de su página virtual en Colombia.

Inverso. Progettare per una nuova economia tessile circolare

L’industria tessile è la seconda fonte di inquinamento del Pianeta: risorse idriche, energetiche e umane vengono sfruttate per la produzione massiva di capi d’abbigliamento che, dopo solo un utilizzo, vengono gettati e smaltiti scorrettamente senza possibilità di una seconda vita. È da queste considerazioni, abbinate agli obiettivi dell’Agenda 2030 – e, ancora più in là, dell’Agenda 2050 – che si sviluppa il progetto “inverso”. Questo, nel tentativo di far fronte a tecnologie di riciclo ancora arretrate e con possibilità di sviluppo nei successivi due anni, vuole dare una seconda vita a tutti gli scarti di tessuto derivanti dall’industria di tappezzeria forlivese. Un territorio che acquista principalmente dalla Toscana, dal Veneto e dalla Lombardia, regioni italiane che durante la loro attività conciaria producono 1,46 Kg di scarti per ogni metro quadrato di pelli prodotte. "inverso" è un progetto alla cui base poggiamo virtuosi principi legati all’economia circolare, sviluppati tramite una progettazione attenta e un colloquio consapevole con la maggior parte degli attori coinvolti nel ciclo di vita del prodotto. Il mio progetto vuole inserirsi nell’ambito “slow fashion” nel tentativo di supportare una futura economia tessile circolare senza, però, porre in secondo piano l’esigenza prima della moda per ognuno di noi: esprimere se stessi.

Host factor I, Hfq, binds to Escherichia coli ompA mRNA in a growth rate-dependent fashion and regulates its stability

The stability of the ompA mRNA depends on the bacterial growth rate. The 5′ untranslated region is the stability determinant of this transcript and the target of the endoribonuclease, RNase E, the key player of mRNA degradation. An RNA-binding protein with affinity for the 5′ untranslated region ompA was purified and identified as Hfq, a host factor initially recognized for its function in phage Qβ replication. The ompA RNA-binding activity parallels the amount of Hfq, which is elevated in bacteria cultured at slow growth rate, a condition leading to facilitated degradation of the ompA mRNA. In hfq mutant cells with a deficient Hfq gene product, the RNA-binding activity is missing, and analysis of the ompA mRNA showed that the growth-rate dependence of degradation is lost. Furthermore, the half-life of the ompA mRNA is prolonged in the mutant cells, irrespective of growth rate. Hfq has no affinity for the lpp transcript whose degradation, like that of bulk mRNA, is not affected by bacterial growth rate. Compatible with our results, we found that the intracellular concentration of RNase E and its associated degradosome components is independent of bacterial growth rate. Thus our results suggest a regulatory role for Hfq that specifically facilitates the ompA mRNA degradation in a growth rate-dependent manner.

[comparative Study Between Fast And Slow Induction Of Propofol Given By Target-controlled Infusion: Expected Propofol Concentration At The Effect Site. Randomized Controlled Trial].

studies have shown that rate of propofol infusion may influence the predicted propofol concentration at the effect site (Es). The aim of this study was to evaluate the Es predicted by the Marsh pharmacokinetic model (ke0 0.26min(-1)) in loss of consciousness during fast or slow induction. the study included 28 patients randomly divided into two equal groups. In slow induction group (S), target-controlled infusion (TCI) of propofol with plasma, Marsh pharmacokinetic model (ke0 0.26min(-1)) with target concentration (Tc) at 2.0-μg.mL(-1) were administered. When the predicted propofol concentration at the effect site (Es) reached half of Es value, Es was increased to previous Es + 1μg.mL(-1), successively, until loss of consciousness. In rapid induction group (R), patients were induced with TCI of propofol with plasma (6.0μg.ml(-1)) at Es, and waited until loss of consciousness. in rapid induction group, Tc for loss of consciousness was significantly lower compared to slow induction group (1.67±0.76 and 2.50±0.56μg.mL(-1), respectively, p=0.004). the predicted propofol concentration at the effect site for loss of consciousness is different for rapid induction and slow induction, even with the same pharmacokinetic model of propofol and the same balance constant between plasma and effect site.

Zone trapping/merging zones in flow analysis: A novel approach for rapid assays involving relatively slow chemical reactions

A novel strategy for accomplishing zone trapping in flow analysis is proposed. The sample and the reagent solutions are simultaneously inserted into convergent carrier streams and the established zones merge together before reaching the detector, where the most concentrated portion of the entire sample zone is trapped. The main characteristics, potentialities and limitations of the strategy were critically evaluated in relation to an analogous flow system with zone stopping. When applied to the spectrophotometric determination of nitrite in river waters, the main figures of merit were maintained, exception made for the sampling frequency which was calculated as 189h(-1), about 32% higher relatively to the analogous system with zone stopping. The sample inserted volume can be increased up to 1.0 mL without affecting sampling frequency and no problems with pump heating or malfunctions were noted after 8-h operation of the system. In contrast to zone stopping, only a small portion of the sample zone is halted with zone trapping, leading to these beneficial effects. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Growth-active gibberellins overcome the very slow shoot growth of Hancornia speciosa, an important fruit tree from the Brazilian ""Cerrado""

Shoot elongation of Hancornia speciosa, an endangered tree from the Brazilian savannah ""Cerrado"", is very slow, thus limiting nursery production of plants. Gibberellins (GAs) A(1), A(3), and A(5), and two inhibitors of GA biosynthesis, trinexapac-ethyl and ancymidol were applied to shoots of Hancornia seedlings. GA(1) and GA(3) significantly stimulated shoot elongation, while GA(5) had no significant effect. Trinexapac-ethyl and ancymidol, both at 100 A mu g per seedling, inhibited shoot elongation up to 45 days after treatment, though the effect was statistically significant only for ancymidol. Somewhat surprisingly, exogenous GA(3) more effectively stimulated shoot elongation in SD-grown plants, than in LD-grown plants. The results from exogenous application of GAs and inhibitors of GA biosynthesis imply that Hancornia shoot growth is controlled by GAs, and that level of endogenous growth-active GAs is likely to be the limiting factor for shoot elongation in Hancornia. Application of GAs thus offer a practical method for nursery production of Hancornia seedlings for outplanting into the field.

Effects of memory load and distraction on performance and event-related slow potentials in a visuospatial working memory task

Brain electrical activity related to working memory was recorded at 15 scalp electrodes during a visuospatial delayed response task. Participants (N = 18) touched the remembered position of a target on a computer screen after either a 1 or 8 sec delay. These memory trials were compared to sensory trials in which the target remained present throughout the delay and response periods. Distracter stimuli identical to the target were briefly presented during the delay on 30% of trials. Responses were less accurate in memory than sensory trials, especially after the long delay. During the delay slow potentials developed that were significantly more negative in memory than sensory trials. The difference between memory and sensory trials was greater at anterior than posterior electrodes. On trials with distracters, the slow potentials generated by memory trials showed further enhancement of negativity whereas there were minimal effects on accuracy of performance. The results provide evidence that engagement of visuospatial working memory generates slow wave negativity with a timing and distribution consistent with frontal activation. Enhanced brain activity associated with working memory is required to maintain performance in the presence of distraction. © 1997 by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Photolytic manipulation of [Ca2+](i) reveals slow kinetics of potassium channels underlying the afterhyperpolarization in hipppocampal pyramidal neurons

The identity of the potassium channel underlying the slow, apamin-insensitive component of the afterhyperpolarization current (sl(AHP)) remains unknown. We studied sl(AHP) in CA1 pyramidal neurons using simultaneous whole-cell recording, calcium fluorescence imaging, and flash photolysis of caged compounds. Intracellular calcium concentration ([Ca2+](i)) peaked earlier and decayed more rapidly than sl(AHP). Loading cells with low concentrations of the calcium chelator EGTA slowed the activation and decay of sl(AHP). In the presence of EGTA, intracellular calcium decayed with two time constants. When [Ca2+](i) was increased rapidly after photolysis of DM-Nitrophen, both apamin-sensitive and apamin-insensitive outward currents were activated. The apamin-sensitive current activated rapidly (<20 msec), whereas the apamin-insensitive current activated more slowly (180 msec). The apamin-insensitive current was reduced by application of serotonin and carbachol, confirming that it was caused by sl(AHP) channels. When [Ca2+](i) was decreased rapidly via photolysis of diazo-2, the decay of sl(AHP) was similar to control (1.7 sec). All results could be reproduced by a model potassium channel gated by calcium, suggesting that the channels underlying sl(AHP) have intrinsically slow kinetics because of their high affinity for calcium.