Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 °/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 °/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.

Photochromic coloration of wool fabric

A method has been developed for producing photochromic wool fabric by applying a layer of hybrid silica containing a photochromic dye onto wool fibres. A number of different hybrid silicas were prepared by the sol-gel technique involving co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of alkyltrialkoxysilanes together with 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane. With the dye Photorome II, it was possible to obtain a photo chromic coating which showed fast optical response. The coating had only a slight effect on the fabric handle. The durability of the coating appeared to be acceptable, at least for fashion wear.

Use of low-level plasma for enhancing the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated with a silicone polymer

This study examines the effects of an atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) pre-treatment on the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated subsequently, by the pad/dry method, with an aqueous emulsion of the amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane, SM 8709. Optimal shrink resistance (with no impairment of fabric handle) was obtained after a low-level plasma treatment (1-3 s exposure time), using 5% of the polymer emulsion. Higher levels of silicone polymer could be used to achieve shrink resistance in the absence of a plasma pre-treatment, but the fabric handle would be adversely affected. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) studies showed that the bulk of the covalently bound surface lipid layer was removed after a plasma exposure time of 30 s. For treatment times of 3 s or less, however, the removal was incomplete, suggesting that optimum shrink resistance (after treatment with the silicone polymer) was associated with the modification of the surface layer rather than its complete destruction. Scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) revealed that the plasma pre-treatment did not lead to any physical modifications (such as smoothening of the scale edges), even for long exposure times, and had no significant impact on the extent or nature of the inter-fibre bonding of the polymer. Confocal microscopy showed uniform spread of polymer on single fibres. It is concluded that the main impact of the plasma pre-treatment was to enhance the distribution of polymer both on and between fibres and to improve adhesion of polymer to the fibre.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

The influence of fiber diameter, fabric attributes and environmental conditions on wetness sensations of next-to-skin knitwear

This study investigated the relationships between the sensations of sweaty, damp, muggy and clingy, as assessed by human response from wearer trial garment assessment, and fiber type, fiber, yarn and fabric properties and instrumental fabric measurements of next-to-skin knitwear. Wearer trial assessment of 48 fabrics followed a strict 60 minute protocol including a range of environmental conditions and levels of exercise. Adjusted mean weighted scores were determined using linked garments. Instrumental fabric handle measurements were determined with the Wool HandleMeter (WHM) and Wool ComfortMeter. Data were analyzed using forward stepwise general linear modeling. Mean fiber diameter (MFD) affected the sweaty, damp, muggy and clingy sensation responses accounting for between 23.5% and 56.2% of the variance of these sensations. In all cases, finer fibers were associated with lower sensation scores (preferred). There were also effects of fiber type upon sweaty, muggy and clingy scores, with polyester fiber fabrics having higher scores (less preferred) compared with fabrics composed of wool, particularly for peak sweaty scores in hot and active environments. Attributes such as fabric density, yarn linear density, knitting structure and finishing treatments, but not fabric thickness, accounted for some further variance in these attributes once MFD had been taken into account. This is explained as finer fibers have a greater surface area for any given mass of fiber and so finer fibers can act as a more effective sink for moisture compared with coarser fibers. No fabric handle parameter or other attribute of fiber diameter distribution was significant in affecting these sensation scores.

Photochromic wool fabrics from a hybrid silica coating

In this work, a photochromic wool fabric has been prepared by applying a photochromic-dye hybrid silica sol-gel onto the surface of fabric. The photochromic fabric was found to have a very quick optical response. Two types of silica were used as the matrix material, and the type of silica had a small effect only on the photochromic performance, the fabric washing fastness, and water contact angle, but affected the fabric handle property considerably. The silica from a precursor containing a long alkyl chain showed very little influence on the fabric handle and better photochromic performance than that containing a phenyl group.

Photochromic wool fabrics with enhanced durability and photochromic performance

In our previous work, we have produced a photochromic wool fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. The coating showed a very fast optical response, but had little influence on the fabric handle, however durability was low. In this context, we reported that durability of the hybrid layer can be improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durabilities. Also, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS:alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, fabric handle and optical response were examined.

Fast response photochromic textiles from hybrid silica surface coating

In this study, a hybrid silica sol-gel embedded with a photochromic dye has been applied to wool fabric to form a photochromic coating. The treated wool fabrics showed very quick photochromic response. Five different silanes have been used as the silica precursor, and the resultant coating showed slight differences in photochromic performance, fabric washing fastness, and surface hydrophilicity. However, the silica type had a considerable influence on fabric handle property. The silica matrix from the silane containing a long alkyl chain had a very little influence on the fabric handle and better photochromic performance than those from other different silane precursors.

A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool fabrics

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing fabric handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the fabric handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

Photochromic fabrics with improved durability and photochromic performance

Previously, we have reported a method for producing photochromic wool fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. While the photochromic coating showed a very fast optical response and had little influence on the fabric handle, its durability was poor. In this study, the durability of the photochromic coating layer was improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane compound (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durability or fastness. In addition, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS/alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, fabric handle and optical response were examined.

Fabric and greasy wool handle, their importance to the Australian wool industry: a review

Handle-related properties of woollen fabrics have been demonstrated to be major factors affecting consumer buying attitudes. Handle is the combination of both textural and compressional attributes. Compressional handle has demonstrated processing advantages in woven and knitted fabrics. The handle of processing lots can be manipulated using a variety of technologies but direct manipulation of textural greasy wool handle pre-processing is still crude. On-farm, there is documented evidence that including handle assessment in a selection index provides additional improvements in genetic gain. However, the assessment of greasy wool handle is based on a tactile evaluation of the wool staple by sheep and wool classers, and its application is affected by a lack of framework that instructs assessors on a standard method of assessment. Once a reliable and repeatable protocol is developed, further understanding of the effect greasy wool handle has on final garment quality will be possible.

Family Record of the Clement Family (on fabric)

Family Record of the Clement Family (1 printed page) exactly as above, but printed on fabric, n.d.

Receipt from H. Carlisle and Co., St. Catharines for fabric

Receipt from H. Carlisle and Co., St. Catharines for fabric, Jan. 3, 1888.