Transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins onto wool fabrics leading to improved physical and mechanical properties

Transglutaminases have the ability to incorporate primary amines and to graft peptides (containing glutamine or lysine residues) into proteins. These properties enable transglutaminases to be used in the grafting of a range of compounds including peptides and/or proteins onto wool fibres, altering their functionality. In this paper we investigated the transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins into wool and its effect on wool properties. A commercial hydrolysed silk preparation was compared with silk sericin. The silk sericin protein was labelled with a fluorescent probe which was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the TGase grafting of such proteins into wool fibres. The TGase mediated grafting of these proteins led to a significant effect on the properties of wool yarn and fabric, resulting in increased bursting strength, as well as reduced levels of felting shrinkage and improved fabric softness. Also observed was an accumulation of deposits on the surface of the treated wool fibres when monitored by SEM and alterations in the thermal behaviour of the modified fibres, in particular for mTGase/sericin treated fibres which, with the confocal studies, corroborate the physical changes observed on the treated wool fabric. © 2006 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Transglutaminase treatment of wool fabrics leads to resistance to detergent damage

Biological detergents are now routinely used in domestic laundry because the enzymes they contain provide the added benefit of low temperature washes with improved cleaning performance. One of the key enzymes found in these detergents are proteases, which if exposed to natural protein fibres such as wool or silk can cause irreversible damage, leading to loss of fabric strength, shape and poor colour fastness. Transglutaminases (TGases) are protein cross-linking enzymes capable of adding tensile strength to wool proteins, and as a consequence are capable of remediating the damage caused by previous chemical treatments, and more importantly, by proteases. In this paper we treated dyed wool fabric with TGase and then washed the fabric with biological and non-biological detergents to investigate whether TGases would protect wool garments from damage by the undue use of biological detergents in domestic laundry. We demonstrate using different cycles of detergent washes containing biological and non-biological detergents and different TGase treatments, that wool fabric treated previously with TGase release less dye into the washing liquor and in addition maintain fabric strength at levels greater than the washed controls. As a consequence, wool garments previously treated with TGase are likely to have increased resistance to domestic washing and thus provide increased longevity. © 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Application of transglutaminases in the modification of wool textiles

The use of the protein-crosslinking enzymes transglutaminases (EC 2.3.2.13), as biocatalysts in the processing of wool textiles offers a variety of exciting and realistic possibilities, which include reducing the propensity of wool fabric to shrink and maintaining or increasing fabric strength. Guinea pig liver (GPL) transglutaminase or the microbial transglutaminase isolated from Streptoverticilium mobaraense, when applied to wool either alone or following a protease treatment, resulted in an increase in wool yarn and fabric strength (up to a 25% increase compared to a control). This indicates that transglutaminases can remediate the negative effects of proteolytic treatments in terms of loss in fibre strength. Incubation of samples pretreated with different oxidative and reducing agents with both sources of transglutaminases led to significant increases in tensile strength for all samples tested, suggesting that yarn strength lost following chemical treatments can also be recovered. The two different transglutaminases (TGases) could also impart a significant reduction in fabric shrinkage. The incorporation of primary amine transglutaminase substrates into wool fibres, with a view to altering wool functionality, was demonstrated using the incorporation of the fluorescent primary amine fluorescein cadaverine (FC). Incubation of wool with this fluorescent amine and transglutaminase led to high levels of incorporation into the fibres. The treatment of wool textiles with transglutaminases indicates that a number of novel and radically different finishes for wool textiles can be developed.

The Figmentum Project: appropriating information and communication technologies to animate our urban fabric

This paper explores how we may design located information and communication technologies (ICTs) to foster community sentiment. It focuses explicitly on possibilities for ICTs to create new modalities of place through exploring key factors such as shared experiences, shared knowledge and shared authorship. To contextualise this discussion in a real world setting, this paper presents FIGMENTUM, a situated generative art application that was developed for and installed in a new urban development. FIGMENTUM is a non-authoritative, non-service based application that aims to trigger emotional and representational place-based communities. Out of this practice-led research comes a theory and a process for designing creative place-based ICT’s to animate our urban communities.

In Bed with Autobiography: Unravelling the Fabric of Gender and Genre in Women’s Bed(room) Confessions

This thesis consists of a confessional narrative, What My Mother Doesn’t Know, and an accompanying exegesis, And Why I Should (Maybe) Tell Her. The creative piece employs the confessional mode as a subversive device in three separate narratives, each of which situates the bed as a site of resistance. The exegesis investigates how this self-disclosure in a domestic space flouts the governing rules of self-representation, specifically: telling the truth, respecting privacy and displaying normalcy. The female confession, I argue, creates an alternative space in women’s autobiography where notions of truth-telling can be undermined, the political dimensions of personal experience can be uncovered and the discourse of normality can be negotiated. In particular, women’s confessions told in, on or about the bed, dismantle the genre’s illusion of self and confirm the representative aspects of women’s experience. Framed within these parameters of power and powerlessness, the exegesis includes textual analyses of Charlotte Perkins Gilman’s The Yellow Wallpaper (1892), Tracey Emin’s My Bed (1999) and Lauren Slater’s Lying (2000), each of which exposes in a bedroom space, the author’s most obscure, intimate and traumatic experiences. Situated firmly within and against the genre’s traditional masculine domain, the exegesis also includes mediations on the creative work that validate the bed as my fabric for confession.

Vibrational spectroscopic studies of wool

Fourier transfonn (FT) Raman, Raman microspectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy have been used for the structural analysis and characterisation of untreated and chemically treated wool fibres. For FT -Raman spectroscopy novel methods of sample presentation have been developed and optimised for the analysis of wool. No significant fluorescence was observed and the spectra could be obtained routinely. The stability of wool keratin to the laser source was investigated and the visual and spectroscopic signs of sample damage were established. Wool keratin was found to be extremely robust with no signs of sample degradation observed for laser powers of up to 600 m W and for exposure times of up to seven and half hours. Due to improvements in band resolution and signal-to-noise ratio, several previously unobserved spectral features have become apparent. The assignment of the Raman active vibrational modes of wool have been reviewed and updated to include these features. The infrared spectroscopic techniques of attenuated total reflectance (ATR) and photoacoustic (P A) have been used to examine shrinkproofed and mothproofed wool samples. Shrinkproofing is an oxidative chemical treatment used to selectively modifY the surface of a wool fibre. Mothproofing is a chemical treatment applied to wool for the prevention of insect attack. The ability of PAS and A TR to vary the penetration depth by varying certain instrumental parameters was used to obtain spectra of the near surface regions of these chemically treated samples. These spectra were compared with those taken with a greater penetration depth, which therefore represent more of the bulk wool sample. The PA and ATR spectra demonstrated that oxidation was restricted to the near-surface layer of wool. Extensive curve fitting of ATR spectra of untreated wool indicated that cuticle was composed of a mixed protein conformation, but was predominately that of an a.-helix. The cortex was proposed to be a mixture of both a.helical and ~-pleated sheet protein conformations. These findings were supported by PAS depth profiling results. Raman microspectroscopy was used in an extensive investigation of the molecular structure of the wool fibre. This included determining the orientation of certain functional groups within the wool fibre and the symmetry of particular vibrations. The orientation ofbonds within the wool fibre was investigated by orientating the wool fibre axis parallel and then perpendicular to the plane of polarisation of the electric vector of the incident radiation. It was experimentally determined that the majority of C=O and N-H bonds of the peptide bond of wool lie parallel to the fibre axis. Additionally, a number of the important vibrations associated with the a-helix were also found to lie parallel to the fibre axis. Further investigation into the molecular structure of wool involved determining what effect stretching the wool fibre had on bond orientation. Raman spectra of stretched and unstretched wool fibres indicated that extension altered the orientation ofthe aromatic rings, the CH2 and CH3 groups of the amino acids. Curve fitting results revealed that extension resulted in significant destruction of the a-helix structure a substantial increase in the P-pleated sheet structure. Finally, depolarisation ratios were calculated for Raman spectra. The vibrations associated with the aromatic rings of amino acids had very low ratios which indicated that the vibrations were highly symmetrical.

Iterative design within a local community communication fabric

Our research considers the problem designing support for local community communications. We present a description of a suburban community communication fabric as revealed through observations of long-term use of a networked community noticeboard and the introduction of tailored email digest to registered noticeboard users. The paper contributes an understanding of how iterative situated design in a user community can help us to design for participation in the use of technologies that can support growth of a community communication fabric. The different roles of the situated display and email digest are discussed.

Understanding the fabric of social interactions for ridesharing through mining social networking sites

The design of applications for dynamic ridesharing or carpooling is often formulated as a matching problem of connecting people with an aligned set of transport needs within a reasonable interval of time and space. This problem formulation relegates social connections to being secondary factors. Technology assisted ridesharing applications that put the matching problem first have revealed that they suffer from being unable to address the factor of social comfort, even after adding friend features or piggybacking on social networking sites. This research aims to understand the fabric of social interactions through which ridesharing happens. We take an online observation approach in order to understand the fabric of social interactions for ridesharing that is happening in highly subscribed online groups of local residents. This understanding will help researchers to identify design challenges and opportunities to support ridesharing in local communities. This paper contributes a fundamental understanding of how social interactions and social comfort precede rideshare requests in local communities.

Influence of Measured Characteristics on Price Received for Merino Wool from the Traprock Area of Southern Queensland

In this study of a commercial wool clip sold in the years 1991/92-1996/97, the effect of wool characteristics, (staple length, staple strength, fibre diameter, position of break, vegetable matter, hauteur, yield and coefficient of variation of staple length) on price was explored together with their effect on the ratio of price received per lot to the average weekly price (1994/95 basis) for clean wool of the same fibre diameter. Fibre diameter and where the point of break occurred had the most effect on price. As hauteur, staple length and yield increased, so did the price ratio but it decreased as the percentage of vegetable matter and the coefficient of variation of the staple length increased. The ratio of proceeds if all wool had been sold at average weekly market price, to proceeds if all wool had been 21µm or less, indicated little financial advantage over the six-year period as most sale lots were under 22µm. To raise the proceeds of sale above the proceeds estimated using average market price for each lot, the analyses suggested that hauteur, staple length and its coefficient of variation, could be considered, in addition to fibre diameter, when sourcing wethers for purchase. Animal production for a consuming world : proceedings of 9th Congress of the Asian-Australasian Association of Animal Production Societies [AAAP] and 23rd Biennial Conference of the Australian Society of Animal Production [ASAP] and 17th Annual Symposium of the University of Sydney, Dairy Research Foundation, [DRF]. 2-7 July 2000, Sydney, Australia.