Escalada deportiva en mini muro artificial : Estudio comparativo en la formación del Profesorado en Educación Física CRUB-UNCO

Para analizar el proceso de aprendizaje de los estudiantes en escalada se diseñó una práctica de escalada en muro (sistema abierto estilo americano) a través de un estudio comparativo entre estudiantes de dos asignaturas correlativas (Deportes Regionales Estivales 1 y 2). El objetivo es conocer la forma de resolución de problemas corporales y motrices en la escalada en el marco del mini muro como dispositivo de enseñanza. Se realizó a mitad del año académico en cada asignatura y para ello se elaboró una planilla de cotejo para registrar y comparar los resultados alcanzados. Se realizó un procesamiento cuantitativo sobre la cantidad de problemas resueltos por grupo. Se trabajó con enfoque cuali-cuantitativo para analizar las formas de resolución de los problemas motrices de los estudiantes. Se observa que los estudiantes de DRE 2 resuelven mayor cantidad de problemas en el muro que los estudiantes de DRE 1. La hipótesis que se sostiene tiene que ver con que los estudiantes más avanzados disponen de una mayor experiencia traducida en inteligencia motriz o disponibilidad corporal y motriz, que los estudiantes de la asignatura previa. Esta comunicación es parte del proyecto 04-B169 "El Andinismo en la Educación Física: Seguridad, enseñanza y formación docente". CRUB-UNCo

Escalada deportiva en mini muro artificial : Estudio comparativo en la formación del Profesorado en Educación Física CRUB-UNCO

Para analizar el proceso de aprendizaje de los estudiantes en escalada se diseñó una práctica de escalada en muro (sistema abierto estilo americano) a través de un estudio comparativo entre estudiantes de dos asignaturas correlativas (Deportes Regionales Estivales 1 y 2). El objetivo es conocer la forma de resolución de problemas corporales y motrices en la escalada en el marco del mini muro como dispositivo de enseñanza. Se realizó a mitad del año académico en cada asignatura y para ello se elaboró una planilla de cotejo para registrar y comparar los resultados alcanzados. Se realizó un procesamiento cuantitativo sobre la cantidad de problemas resueltos por grupo. Se trabajó con enfoque cuali-cuantitativo para analizar las formas de resolución de los problemas motrices de los estudiantes. Se observa que los estudiantes de DRE 2 resuelven mayor cantidad de problemas en el muro que los estudiantes de DRE 1. La hipótesis que se sostiene tiene que ver con que los estudiantes más avanzados disponen de una mayor experiencia traducida en inteligencia motriz o disponibilidad corporal y motriz, que los estudiantes de la asignatura previa. Esta comunicación es parte del proyecto 04-B169 "El Andinismo en la Educación Física: Seguridad, enseñanza y formación docente". CRUB-UNCo

Escalada deportiva en mini muro artificial : Estudio comparativo en la formación del Profesorado en Educación Física CRUB-UNCO

Para analizar el proceso de aprendizaje de los estudiantes en escalada se diseñó una práctica de escalada en muro (sistema abierto estilo americano) a través de un estudio comparativo entre estudiantes de dos asignaturas correlativas (Deportes Regionales Estivales 1 y 2). El objetivo es conocer la forma de resolución de problemas corporales y motrices en la escalada en el marco del mini muro como dispositivo de enseñanza. Se realizó a mitad del año académico en cada asignatura y para ello se elaboró una planilla de cotejo para registrar y comparar los resultados alcanzados. Se realizó un procesamiento cuantitativo sobre la cantidad de problemas resueltos por grupo. Se trabajó con enfoque cuali-cuantitativo para analizar las formas de resolución de los problemas motrices de los estudiantes. Se observa que los estudiantes de DRE 2 resuelven mayor cantidad de problemas en el muro que los estudiantes de DRE 1. La hipótesis que se sostiene tiene que ver con que los estudiantes más avanzados disponen de una mayor experiencia traducida en inteligencia motriz o disponibilidad corporal y motriz, que los estudiantes de la asignatura previa. Esta comunicación es parte del proyecto 04-B169 "El Andinismo en la Educación Física: Seguridad, enseñanza y formación docente". CRUB-UNCo

Fit-climbing test: a field test for indoor rock climbing

Bertuzzi, R, Franchini, E, Tricoli, V, Lima-Silva, AE, Pires, FDO, Okuno, NM, and Kiss, MAPDM. Fit-climbing test: A field test for indoor rock climbing. J Strength Cond Res 26(6): 1558-1563, 2012-The aim of this study was to develop an indoor rock-climbing test on an artificial wall (Fit-climbing test). Thirteen climbers (elite group [EG] = 6; recreational group [RG] = 7) performed the following tests: (a) familiarization in the Fitclimbing test, (b) the Fit-climbing test, and (c) a retest to evaluate the Fit-climbing test's reliability. Gas exchange, blood lactate concentration, handgrip strength, and heart rate were measured during the test. Oxygen uptake during the Fit-climbing test was not different between groups (EG = 8.4 +/- 1.1 L; RG = 7.9 +/- 1.5 L, p > 0.05). The EG performance (120 +/- 7 movements) was statistically higher than the RG climbers' performance (78 +/- 13 movements) during the Fit-climbing test. Consequently, the oxygen cost per movement during the Fit-climbing test of the EG was significantly lower than that of the RG (p < 0.05). Handgrip strength was higher in the EG when compared with that in the RG in both pre-Fit- and post-Fit-climbing test (p < 0.05). There were no significant differences in any other variables analyzed during the Fit-climbing test (p > 0.05). Furthermore, the performance in the Fit-climbing test presented high reliability (intraclass correlation coefficient = 0.97). Therefore, the performance during the Fit-climbing test may be an alternative to evaluate rock climbers because of its specificity and relation to oxygen cost per movement during climbing.

Looking through the haze of discontent : smokers as a data source

In the case of industrial relations research, particularly that which sets out to examine practices within workplaces, the best way to study this real-life context is to work for the organisation. Studies conducted by researchers working within the organisation comprise some of the (broad) field’s classic research (cf. Roy, 1954; Burawoy, 1979). Participant and non-participant ethnographic research provides an opportunity to investigate workplace behaviour beyond the scope of questionnaires and interviews. However, we suggest that the data collected outside a workplace can be just as important as the data collected inside the organisation’s walls. In recent years the introduction of anti-smoking legislation in Australia has meant that people who smoke cigarettes are no longer allowed to do so inside buildings. Not only are smokers forced outside to engage in their habit, but they have to smoke prescribed distances from doorways, or in some workplaces outside the property line. This chapter considers the importance of cigarette-smoking employees in ethnographic research. Through data collected across three separate research projects, the chapter argues that smokers, as social outcasts in the workplace, can provide a wealth of important research data. We suggest that smokers also appear more likely to provide stories that contradict the ‘management’ or ‘organisational’ position. Thus, within the haze of smoke, researchers can uncover a level of discontent with the ‘corporate line’ presented inside the workplace. There are several aspects to the increased propensity of smokers to provide a contradictory or discontented story. It may be that the researcher is better able to establish a rapport with smokers, as there is a removal of the artificial wall a researcher presents as an outsider. It may also be that a research location physically outside the boundaries of the organisation provides workers with the freedom to express their discontent. The authors offer no definitive answers; rather, this chapter is intended to extend our knowledge of workplace research through highlighting the methodological value in using smokers as research subjects. We present the experience of three separate case studies where interactions with cigarette smokers have provided either important organisational data or alternatively a means of entering what Cunnison (1966) referred to as the ‘gossip circle’. The final section of the chapter draws on the evidence to demonstrate how the community of smokers, as social outcasts, are valuable in investigating workplace issues. For researchers and practitioners, these social outcasts may very well prove to be an important barometer of employee attitudes; attitudes that perhaps cannot be measured through traditional staff surveys.

Effects of reflection and social isolation on crayfish behaviour /

Visual stimuli and socialization influence exploratory behaviour in crayfish. The predominant components of spontaneous exploratory behaviour were determined by observing the activity of solitary adult crayfish (Procambarus clarkii) in a glass aquarium containing fresh water and no objects. Five distinct behaviours were observed: rearing up (climbing on the wall), turning around, cornering (facing the comer), backward walking, and crossing (crossing the midline of the aquarium). The frequency of rearing up, cornering and turning around decreased when reflection from the glass wall was blocked with black cardboard, black paint or non-reflective transparent plastic. In a tank containing mirrors on one side and non-reflective plastic on the other, crayfish cornered, reared up, and turned around more in front of the mirrors. Socialization was necessary for crayfish to respond to the reflection. Crayfish that were housed in pairs for two weeks exhibited more rearing up, turning around and cornering in front of the mirrors than in the non-reflective side. Crayfish isolated for two weeks did not show these differences. Socialized crayfish also exhibited more rearing up, turning around and cornering than did isolated crayfish. Thus, crayfish respond to visual stimuli provided by a glass tank, but the responds depends on socialization.

Detección y aplicación de T-Patterns en la escalada de élite

El presente trabajo constituye un ejemplo de la potencia informativa de los T-patterns -estructuras regulares y temporales de conductas obtenidas mediante el software Theme, versión 6.0- y de su aplicación, por primera vez, al conocimiento estratégico-táctico de un deporte que ha sido residualmente estudiado como es la escalada deportiva. En el seno de la metodología observacional se ha construido ad hoc el instrumento de observación Sport Climbing Observation Tool (SCOT) que ha permitido detectar T-patterns que reflejan el comportamiento desarrollado en la ascensión de la vía -presa, mano de agarre, inicio y final de contacto, chapaje, uso de magnesio y descansos- por los mejores escaladores -modalidad Lead- que participaron en el Campeonato del Mundo de 2011, celebrado en Arco (Italia). Mediante la información contenida en los T-patterns detectados se ha caracterizado la ascensión en tramos (inicial, medio y final), describiéndose operativamente la manera en la que los mejores escaladores del mundo cumplimentan la ascensión de la vía.

Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design: Assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency

This study investigated a new performance indicator to assess climbing fluency (smoothness of the hip trajectory and orientation of a climber using normalized jerk coefficients) to explore effects of practice and hold design on performance. Eight experienced climbers completed four repetitions of two, 10-m high routes with similar difficulty levels, but varying in hold graspability (holds with one edge vs holds with two edges). An inertial measurement unit was attached to the hips of each climber to collect 3D acceleration and 3D orientation data to compute jerk coefficients. Results showed high correlations (r = .99, P < .05) between the normalized jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation. Results showed higher normalized jerk coefficients for the route with two graspable edges, perhaps due to more complex route finding and action regulation behaviors. This effect decreased with practice. Jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation could be a useful indicator of climbing fluency for coaches as its computation takes into account both spatial and temporal parameters (ie, changes in both climbing trajectory and time to travel this trajectory)

Angular dependence of domain wall resistivity in artificial magnetic domain structures.

We exploit the ability to precisely control the magnetic domain structure of perpendicularly magnetized Pt/Co/Pt trilayers to fabricate artificial domain wall arrays and study their transport properties. The scaling behavior of this model system confirms the intrinsic domain wall origin of the magnetoresistance, and systematic studies using domains patterned at various angles to the current flow are excellently described by an angular-dependent resistivity tensor containing perpendicular and parallel domain wall resistivities. We find that the latter are fully consistent with Levy-Zhang theory, which allows us to estimate the ratio of minority to majority spin carrier resistivities, rho downward arrow/rho upward arrow approximately 5.5, in good agreement with thin film band structure calculations.

The angler; poem, in ten cantos: with proper instructions in the art, rules to choose fishing rods, lines, hooks, floats, baits, and to make artificial flies; receipts for pastes, &c., and, in short, every article relating to the sport.

"Copied almost ̲̲in ̲̲̲̲toto from 'The anglers, Eight dialogues in verse,' London, 1758 ... (reprinted in Ruddiman's 'Scarce, curious, and valuable pieces,' Edinburgh, 1773), by 'Dr. Thomas Scott of Ispwich.'"--Dict. Nat. Biog.

QoS-Based Web Service Scheduling Accommodating Inter-Service Dependencies Using Minimal-Conflict Hill-Climbing Repair Genetic Algorithm

In the filed of semantic grid, QoS-based Web service scheduling for workflow optimization is an important problem.However, in semantic and service rich environment like semantic grid, the emergence of context constraints on Web services is very common making the scheduling consider not only quality properties of Web services, but also inter service dependencies which are formed due to the context constraints imposed on Web services. In this paper, we present a repair genetic algorithm, namely minimal-conflict hill-climbing repair genetic algorithm, to address scheduling optimization problems in workflow applications in the presence of domain constraints and inter service dependencies. Experimental results demonstrate the scalability and effectiveness of the genetic algorithm.

Seed production and culture techniques of climbing perch, Anabas testudineus

Six treatments each with 12 replications designed to optimize the dose of inducing agent PG to achieve fertilization and hatching success of climbing perch, Anabas testudineus were tested. The females were given single injection of 7-12 mg PG/kg body weight and the males were given 4 mg PG/kg body weight. Fertilization and hatching rate varied from 67±4.55% to 66±3.0% and 59±4.88% to 57±6.21% for the doses of 10, 11 and 12 mg PG/kg of body weight, respectively. The hormone dose had significant (P<0.05) effect on fertilization and hatching. Six mini shallow cisterns (570 cm x 105 cm) were used to investigate the efficacy of zooplankton and Artemia nauplii as feed for spawn rearing. Three-day old spawns were stocked in six mini shallow cisterns at a stocking density of 100 individuals/L of water. Two treatments each with three replications were used to develop culture technique of the climbing perch. In case of treatment-1, the spawns were fed with Artemia nauplii three times daily, while in treatment-2, zooplankton were used as feed in the same manner as in treatment-1. After 14 days of rearing, mean final weight of the fry of treatments-1 and 2 were 95.55±6.71 and 57.69±5.40 mg, respectively. In treatment-1, spawn fed with Artemia nauplii showed significantly (P<0.05) higher mean weight than the spawn fed with zooplankton (treatment 2).

Design and control of a climbing robot based on hot melt adhesion

Robust climbing in unstructured environments has been one of the long-standing challenges in robotics research. Among others, the control of large adhesion forces is still an important problem that significantly restricts the locomotion performance of climbing robots. The main contribution of this paper is to propose a novel approach to autonomous robot climbing which makes use of hot melt adhesion (HMA). The HMA material is known as an economical solution to achieve large adhesion forces, which can be varied by controlling the material temperature. For locomotion on both inclined and vertical walls, this paper investigates the basic characteristics of HMA material, and proposes a design and control of a climbing robot that uses the HMA material for attaching and detaching its body to the environment. The robot is equipped with servomotors and thermal control units to actively vary the temperature of the material, and the coordination of these components enables the robot to walk against the gravitational forces even with a relatively large body weight. A real-world platform is used to demonstrate locomotion on a vertical wall, and the experimental result shows the feasibility and overall performances of this approach. © 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Scaling of velocity fluctuations in off-wall boundary conditions for turbulent flows

A model for off-wall boundary conditions for turbulent flow is investigated. The objective of such a model is to circumvent the need to resolve the buffer layer near the wall, by providing conditions in the logarithmic layer for the overlying flow. The model is based on the self-similarity of the flow at different heights in the logarithmic layer. It was first proposed by Mizuno and Jiménez (2013), imposing at the boundary plane a velocity field obtained on-the-fly from an overlying region. The key feature of the model was that the lengthscales of the field were rescaled to account for the self-similarity law. The model was successful at sustaining a turbulent logarithmic layer, but resulted in some disagreements in the flow statistics, compared to fully-resolved flows. These disagreements needed to be addressed for the model to be of practical application. In the present paper, a more refined, wavelength-dependent rescaling law is proposed, based on the wavelength-dependent dynamics in fully-resolved flows. Results for channel flow show that the new model eliminates the large artificial pressure fluctuations found in the previous one, and a better agreement is obtained in the bulk properties, the flow fluctuations, and their spectral distribution across the whole domain. © Published under licence by IOP Publishing Ltd.