A treatise on printing and dyeing silks : shawls, garments, bandanas, and piece goods, in the different colours /

Spine title: McKernan on printing and dyeing silks.

Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

The osteogenic properties of CaP/silk composite scaffolds

The rationale for the present study was to develop porous CaP/silk composite scaffolds with a CaP-phase distribution and pore architecture better suited to facilitate osteogenic properties of human bone mesenchymal stromal cells (BMSCs) and in vivo bone formation abilities. This was achieved by first preparing CaP/silk hybrid powders which were then incorporated into silk to obtain uniform CaP/silk composite scaffolds, by means of a freeze-drying method. The composition, microstructure and mechanical properties of the CaP/silk composite scaffolds were ascertained by X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier transform infrared spectra (FTIR), scanning electron microscope (SEM) and a universal mechanical testing machine. BMSCs were cultured in these scaffolds and cell proliferation analyzed by confocal microscopy and MTS assay. Alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity and osteogenic gene expression were assayed to determine if osteogenic differentiation had taken place. A calvarial defect model in SCID mice was used to determine the in vivo bone forming ability of the hybrid CaP/silk scaffolds. Our results showed that incorporating the hybrid CaP/silk powders into silk scaffolds improved both pore structure architecture and distribution of CaP powders in the composite scaffolds. By incorporating the CaP phase into silk scaffolds in vitro osteogenic differentiation of BMSCs was enhanced and there was increased in vivo cancellous bone formation. Here we report a method with which to prepare Ca/P composite scaffolds with a pore structure and Ca/P distribution better suited to facilitate BMSC differentiation and bone formation.

Structure–property relationships of silk-modified mesoporous bioglass scaffolds

Porous mesopore-bioglass (MBG) scaffolds have been proposed as a new class of bone regeneration materials due to their apatite-formation and drug-delivery properties; however, the material’s inherent brittleness and high degradation and surface instability are major disadvantages, which compromise its mechanical strength and cytocompatibility as a biological scaffold. Silk, on the other hand, is a native biomaterial and is well characterized with respect to biocompatibility and tensile strength. In this study we set out to investigate what effects blending silk with MBG had on the physiochemical, drug-delivery and biological properties of MBG scaffolds with a view to bone tissue engineering applications. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) were the methods used to analyze the inner microstructure, pore size and morphology, and composition of MBG scaffolds, before and after addition of silk. The effect of silk modification on the mechanical property of MBG scaffolds was determined by testing the compressive strength of the scaffolds and also compressive strength after degradation over time. The drug-delivery potential was evaluated by the release of dexamethasone (DEX) from the scaffolds. Finally, the cytocompatibility of silk-modified scaffolds was investigated by the attachment, morphology, proliferation, differentiation and bone-relative gene expression of bone marrow stromal cells (BMSCs). The results showed that silk modification improved the uniformity and continuity of pore network of MBG scaffolds, and maintained high porosity (94%) and large-pore size (200–400 mm). There was a significant improvement in mechanical strength, mechanical stability, and control of burst release of DEX in silkmodified MBG scaffolds. Silk modification also appeared to provide a better environment for BMSC attachment, spreading, proliferation, and osteogenic differentiation on MBG scaffolds.

The silk road project : dance and embodiment in the age of motion capture

The Silk Road Project was a practice-based research project investigating the potential of motion capture technology to inform perceptions of embodiment in dance performance. The project created a multi-disciplinary collaborative performance event using dance performance and real-time motion capture at Deakin University’s Deakin Motion Lab. Several new technological advances in producing real-time motion capture performance were produced, along with a performance event that examined the aesthetic interplay between a dancer’s movement and the precise mappings of its trajectories created by motion capture and real-time motion graphic visualisations.

The effects of pore architecture in silk fibroin scaffolds on the growth and differentiation of mesenchymal stem cells expressing BMP7

The pore architecture of scaffolds is known to play a critical role in tissue engineering as it provides the vital framework for seeded cells to organize into a functioning tissue. In this report we have investigated the effects of different concentrations of silk fibroin protein on three-dimensional (3D) scaffold pore microstructure. Four pore size ranges of silk fibroin scaffolds were made by the freeze drying technique, with the pore sizes ranging from 50 to 300 lm. The pore sizes of the scaffolds decreased as the concentration of fibroin protein increased. Human bone marrow mesenchymal stromal cells (BMSC) transfected with the BMP7 gene were cultured in these scaffolds. A cell viability colorimetric assay, alkaline phosphatase assay and reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction were performed to analyze the effect of pore size on cell growth, the secretion of extracellular matrix (ECM) and osteogenic differentiation. Cell migration in 3D scaffolds was confirmed by confocal microscopy. Calvarial defects in SCID mice were used to determine the bone forming ability of the silk fibroin scaffolds incorporating BMSC expressing BMP7. The results showed that BMSC expressing BMP7 preferred a pore size between 100 and 300 lm in silk fibroin protein fabricated scaffolds, with better cell proliferation and ECM production. Furthermore, in vivo transplantation of the silk fibroin scaffolds combined with BMSC expressing BMP7 induced new bone formation. This study has shown that an optimized pore architecture of silk fibroin scaffolds can modulate the bioactivity of BMP7-transfected BMSC in bone formation.

Scaffold development using 3D printing with a starch-based polymer

Rapid prototyping (RP) techniques have been utilised by tissue engineers to produce three-dimensional (3D) porous scaffolds. RP technologies allow the design and fabrication of complex scaffold geometries with a fully interconnected pore network. Three-dimensional printing (3DP) technique was used to fabricate scaffolds with a novel micro- and macro-architecture. In this study, a unique blend of starch-based polymer powders (cornstarch, dextran and gelatin) was developed for the 3DP process. Cylindrical scaffolds of five different designs were fabricated and post-processed to enhance the mechanical and chemical properties. The scaffold properties were characterised by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), porosity analysis and compression tests

Organ printing

Organ printing techniques offer the potential to produce living 3D tissue constructs to repair or replace damaged or diseased human tissues and organs. Using these techniques, spatial variations along multiple axes with high geometric complexity can be obtained.. The level of control offered by these technologies to develop printed tissues will allow tissue engineers to better study factors that modulate tissue formation and function, and provide a valuable tool to study the effect of anatomy on graft performance. In this chapter we discuss the history behind substrate patterning and cell and organ printing, and the rationale for developing organ printing techniques with respect to limitations of current clinical tissue engineering strategies to effectively repair damaged tissues. We discuss current 2-dimensional and 3-dimesional strategies for assembling cells as well as the necessary support materials such as hydrogels, bioinks and natural and synthetic polymers adopted for organ printing research. Furthermore, given the current state-of-the-art in organ printing technologies, we discuss some of their limitations and provide recommendations for future developments in this rapidly growing field.

The Silk Road project

The Silk Road Project was a practice-based research project investigating the potential of motion capture technology to inform perceptions of embodiment in dance performance. The project created a multi-disciplinary collaborative performance event using dance performance and real-time motion capture at Deakin University’s Deakin Motion Lab. Performances at Deakin University, December 2007.

Engineered silk fibroin protein 3D matrices for in vitro tumor model

3D in vitro model systems that are able to mimic the in vivo microenvironment are now highly sought after in cancer research. Antheraea mylitta silk fibroin protein matrices were investigated as potential biomaterial for in vitro tumor modeling. We compared the characteristics of MDA-MB-231 cells on A. mylitta, Bombyx mori silk matrices, Matrigel, and tissue culture plates. The attachment and morphology of the MDA-MB-231 cell line on A. mylitta silk matrices was found to be better than on B. mori matrices and comparable to Matrigel and tissue culture plates. The cells grown in all 3D cultures showed more MMP-9 activity, indicating a more invasive potential. In comparison to B. mori fibroin, A. mylitta fibroin not only provided better cell adhesion, but also improved cell viability and proliferation. Yield coefficient of glucose consumed to lactate produced by cells on 3D A. mylitta fibroin was found to be similar to that of cancer cells in vivo. LNCaP prostate cancer cells were also cultured on 3D A. mylitta fibroin and they grew as clumps in long term culture. The results indicate that A. mylitta fibroin scaffold can provide an easily manipulated microenvironment system to investigate individual factors such as growth factors and signaling peptides, as well as evaluation of anticancer drugs.

Mesoporous bioglass/silk composite scaffolds for bone tissue engineering

In the past 20 years, mesoporous materials have been attracted great attention due to their significant feature of large surface area, ordered mesoporous structure, tunable pore size and volume, and well-defined surface property. They have many potential applications, such as catalysis, adsorption/separation, biomedicine, etc. [1]. Recently, the studies of the applications of mesoporous materials have been expanded into the field of biomaterials science. A new class of bioactive glass, referred to as mesoporous bioactive glass (MBG), was first developed in 2004. This material has a highly ordered mesopore channel structure with a pore size ranging from 5–20 nm [1]. Compared to non-mesopore bioactive glass (BG), MBG possesses a more optimal surface area, pore volume and improved in vitro apatite mineralization in simulated body fluids [1,2]. Vallet-Regí et al. has systematically investigated the in vitro apatite formation of different types of mesoporous materials, and they demonstrated that an apatite-like layer can be formed on the surfaces of Mobil Composition of Matters (MCM)-48, hexagonal mesoporous silica (SBA-15), phosphorous-doped MCM-41, bioglass-containing MCM-41 and ordered mesoporous MBG, allowing their use in biomedical engineering for tissue regeneration [2-4]. Chang et al. has found that MBG particles can be used for a bioactive drug-delivery system [5,6]. Our study has shown that MBG powders, when incorporated into a poly (lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) film, significantly enhance the apatite-mineralization ability and cell response of PLGA films. compared to BG [7]. These studies suggest that MBG is a very promising bioactive material with respect to bone regeneration. It is known that for bone defect repair, tissue engineering represents an optional method by creating three-dimensional (3D) porous scaffolds which will have more advantages than powders or granules as 3D scaffolds will provide an interconnected macroporous network to allow cell migration, nutrient delivery, bone ingrowth, and eventually vascularization [8]. For this reason, we try to apply MBG for bone tissue engineering by developing MBG scaffolds. However, one of the main disadvantages of MBG scaffolds is their low mechanical strength and high brittleness; the other issue is that they have very quick degradation, which leads to an unstable surface for bone cell growth limiting their applications. Silk fibroin, as a new family of native biomaterials, has been widely studied for bone and cartilage repair applications in the form of pure silk or its composite scaffolds [9-14]. Compared to traditional synthetic polymer materials, such as PLGA and poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV), the chief advantage of silk fibroin is its water-soluble nature, which eliminates the need for organic solvents, that tend to be highly cytotoxic in the process of scaffold preparation [15]. Other advantages of silk scaffolds are their excellent mechanical properties, controllable biodegradability and cytocompatibility [15-17]. However, for the purposes of bone tissue engineering, the osteoconductivity of pure silk scaffolds is suboptimal. It is expected that combining MBG with silk to produce MBG/silk composite scaffolds would greatly improve their physiochemical and osteogenic properties for bone tissue engineering application. Therefore, in this chapter, we will introduce the research development of MBG/silk scaffolds for bone tissue engineering.

The effects of pore architecture in silk fibroin scaffolds on the growth and differentiation of BMP7-expressing mesenchymal stem cells

Pore architecture of scaffolds is known to play a critical role in tissue engineering as it provides the vital framework for the seeded cells to organize into a functioning tissue. In this report, we investigated the effects of different concentration on silk fibroin protein 3D scaffold pore microstructure. Four pore size ranges of silk fibroin scaffolds were made by freeze-dry technique, with the pore sizes ranging from 50 to 300 µm. The pore size of the scaffold decreases as the concentration increases. Human mesenchymal stem cells were in vitro cultured in these scaffolds. After BMP7 gene transferred, DNA assay, ALP assay, hematoxylin–eosin staining, alizarin red staining and reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction were performed to analyze the effect of the pore size on cell growth, differentiation and the secretion of extracellular matrix (ECM). Cell morphology in these 3D scaffolds was investigated by confocal microscopy. This study indicates mesenchymal stem cells prefer the group of scaffolds with pore size between 100 and 300 µm for better proliferation and ECM production