In Vitro Evaluation Of Sun Protection Factor And Stability Of Commercial Sunscreens Using Mass Spectrometry.

Sunlight exposure causes several types of injury to humans, especially on the skin; among the most common harmful effects due to ultraviolet (UV) exposure are erythema, pigmentation and lesions in DNA, which may lead to cancer. These long-term effects are minimized with the use of sunscreens, a class of cosmetic products that contains UV filters as the main component in the formulation; such molecules can absorb, reflect or diffuse UV rays, and can be used alone or as a combination to broaden the protection on different wavelengths. Currently, worldwide regulatory agencies define which ingredients and what quantities must be used in each country, and enforce companies to conduct tests that confirm the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVA (Ultraviolet A) factor. Standard SPF determination tests are currently conducted in vivo, using human subjects. In an industrial mindset, apart from economic and ethical reasons, the introduction of an in vitro method emerges as an interesting alternative by reducing risks associated to UV exposure on tests, as well as providing assertive analytical results. The present work aims to describe a novel methodology for SPF determination directly from sunscreen formulations using the previously described cosmetomics platform and mass spectrometry as the analytical methods of choice.

In Vitro Sun Protection Factor Evaluation of Sunscreens Containing Rutin and its Derivative

This research aimed at determining spectrophotometrically (290 to 320nm) the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreens developed with rutin (R) or succinate rutin (SR), in association or not with UVB filter. Formulations were developed based on phosphate-base O/W emulsions, with (B) or not (A) the presence of polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 (PIL), in accordance with the following associations: (a) control; (b) 1.0 % SR; (c) 0.1 % R; (d) 7.5 % ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC); (e) 7.5 % EHMC + 0.1 % RS; (0 7.5 % EHMC + 0.1 % R. It was verified a statistical significative elevation of the SPF from 13.93 +/- 0.02 (Af) to 16.63 +/- 0.27 (Bf) and also in relation to 15.53 +/- 0.14 (Bd). According to the results, the EHMC had distinct behavior depending on the presence of bioactive substance and viscosity agent, thus, rutin obtained better profile as a SPF booster in these experimental conditions with the presence of PIL.

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot`s Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972 +/- 0.004 to 28.064 +/- 2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system: the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnate L and P. lanceolato extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072 +/- 0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6 nm. (c) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Absorption of sunscreens across human skin: an evaluation of commercial products for children and adults

Aims Topical sunscreens are routinely applied to the skin by a large percentage of the population. This study assessed the extent of absorption of a number of common chemical sunscreen agents into and through human skin following application of commercially available products. Methods Sunscreen products were applied to excised human epidermis in Franz diffusion cells with the amount penetrating into and across the epidermis assessed by h.p.l.c. for 8 h following application. Results All sunscreen agents investigated penetrated into the skin (0.25 g m(-2) or 14% of applied dose), but only benzophenone-3 passed through the skin in significant amounts (0.08 g m(-2) or 10% of the applied dose). With one exception, suncreen agents in corresponding products marketed for adults and children had similar skin penetration profiles. Conclusions Whilst limited absorption across the skin was observed for the majority of the sunscreens tested, benzophenone-3 demonstrated sufficiently high penetration to warrant further investigation of its continued application.

The influence of the amount of sunscreen applied and its sun protection factor (SPF): evaluation of two sunscreens including the same ingredients at different concentrations

Background To estimate labeled sun protection factor (SPF) for sunscreen, the amount of product applied on volunteers, according to food and drug administration (FDA) and International protocols, is 2 mg/cm(2). However, different studies have shown that consumers actually apply much less product when exposed to the sun. Previous studies have reported contradictory findings in an attempt to correlate the amount applied in relation to SPF. The objective of the present study was to estimate the influence of the quantity of sunscreen applied in the determination of SPF, according to the FDA methodology. Subjects and methods Forty volunteers were included in two groups (SPF 15 and 30). The selected sunscreen was then applied in four different quantities (2, 1.5, 1.0 and 0.5 mg/cm(2)). All areas were irradiated with a solar simulator. After 24 h, the minimal erythemal dose (MED) and SPF were determined. Results In both groups, we observed that the SPF decreased when the amount of sunscreen applied was decreased. The differences between the 2 mg/cm(2) area and the others were significant in both groups (P < 0.001). The correlation between specified SPF and applied amount grew exponentially. Conclusion The protection provided by sunscreen is related to the amount of product applied. It is essential to educate consumers to apply larger amounts of sunscreen for adequate photoprotection.

Development of an anti aging cream with AHA/BHA and sunscreens

The skin aging is a matter of discomfort verified in the population. Thus, every day, new products are launched on the market to offer different manners to prevent the premature aging of the skin. In this context, active substances, as alpha and beta hidroxyacids (AHA/BHA), beyond the sunscreens, are considered a way of prevention and amelioration of the effects caused in the skin due to the time. The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate a cosmetic cream containing AHA/BHA and sunscreen. It was studied in relation to its physical-chemical and microbiological characteristics. According to the results, the formulation developed present a shelf life of 758 days and the preservative system was effective. Considering the parameters evaluated, the cream probably would be commercially accepted.

Development of an anti-aging cream with AHA/BHA and sunscreens

The skin aging is a matter of discomfort verified in the population. Thus, every day, new products are launched on the market to offer different manners to prevent the premature aging of the skin. In this context, active substances, as alpha and beta hidroxyacids (AHA/BHA), beyond the sunscreens, are considered a way of prevention and amelioration of the effects caused in the skin due to the time. The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate a cosmetic cream containing AHA/BHA and sunscreen. It was studied in relation to its physical-chemical and microbiological characteristics. According to the results, the formulation developed present a shelf life of 758 days and the preservative system was effective. Considering the parameters evaluated, the cream probably would be commercially accepted.

Crystal engineering of co-crystals and host-guest systems for environmentally friendly applications: sunscreens stabilization, pollutant sequestering and herbicide reformulation.

Solid state engineered materials have proven to be useful and suitable tools in the quest of new materials. In this thesis different crystalline compounds were synthesized to provide more sustainable products for different applications, as in cosmetics or in agrochemistry, to propose pollutants removal strategy or to obtain materials for electrocatalysis. Therefore, the research projects presented here can be divided into three main topics: (i) sustainable preparation of solid materials of widely used active ingredients aimed at the reduction of their occurrence in the natural environment. The systems studied in this section are cyclodextrins host-guest compounds, obtained via mechanochemical and slurry synthesis. The first chemicals studied are sunscreens inclusion complexes, that proved to have enhanced photostability and desired photoprotection. The same synthetic methods were applied to obtain inclusion complexes of bentazon, a herbicide often found to leach in groundwaters. The resulting products showed to have desired water solubility properties. The same herbicide was also adsorbed on amorphous calcium phosphate nanoparticles, to obtain a biocompatible formulation of this agrochemical. This herbicide could benefit by the adsorption on nanoparticles for what concerns its kinetic release in different media as well as its photostability. (ii) Sustainable synthesis of co-crystals based on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, for the proposal of a sequestering method with a resulting material with enhanced properties. The co-crystallization via mechanochemical means proved that these pollutants can be sequestered via simple solvent-free synthesis and the obtained materials present better photochemical properties when compared to the starting co-formers. (iii) Crystallization from mild solvents of nanosized materials useful for the application in electrocatalysis. The study of compounds based on nickel and cobalt metal ions resulted in the obtainment of 2D and 1D coordination polymers. Moreover, solid solutions were obtained. These crystals showed layered structures and, according to preliminary results, they can be exfoliated.

Evaluation of Protective Effect of a Water-In-Oil Microemulsion Incorporating Quercetin Against UVB-Induced Damage in Hairless Mice Skin

Purpose. Histological aspects were considered in order to evaluate the in vivo photoprotective effect of a w/o microemulsion containing quercetin against UVB irradiation-induced dermal damages. The toxicity in cell culture and the potential skin irritation resulting from topical application of this formulation were investigated. Methods. Mouse dorsal surfaces were treated topically with 300 mg of the unloaded and quercetin-loaded (0.3%, w/w) microemulsions before and after exposure to UVB (2.87 J/cm(2)) irradiation. The untreated control groups irradiated and non-irradiated were also evaluated. UVB-induced histopathological changes as well as the photoprotective effect of this formulation were evaluated considering the parameters of infiltration of inflammatory cells, epidermis thickening (basale and spinosum layers) and collagen and elastic fiber contents. The cytotoxicity of the reported formulation was evaluated in L929 mice fibroblasts by MTT assay and the skin irritation was investigated after topical application of both unloaded and quercetin-loaded microemulsions once a day for 15 days. Results. The results demonstrated that the w/o microemulsion containing quercetin reduced the incidence of histological skin alterations, mainly the connective-tissue damage, induced by exposure to UVB irradiation. This suggests that protective effects of this formulation against UV-induced responses are not secondary to the interference of UV transmission (i.e., blocking the UVB radiation from being absorbed by the skin), as is usually implied with UVB absorbers and sunscreens, but is instead due to different biological effects of this flavonoid. Furthermore, by evaluating the cytotoxic effect on L929 cells and histological aspects such as infiltration of inflammatory cells and epidermis thickness of hairless mice, the present study also demonstrated the lack of toxicity of the proposed system. Conclusion. Based on these mice models, a detailed characterization of the w/o microemulsion incorporating quercetin effects as a photochemoprotective agent on human skin is presented.

Chlorogenic Acid UVA-UVB Photostability

Chlorogenic acid is a natural potent antioxidant. It can be used in cosmetics formulations, but for this purpose its photochemical stability should be determined to ensure that the compound will not be degraded after UV radiation exposure. To evaluate this possibility, the concentration of a chlorogenic acid solution was determined by HPLC before and after UVA and UVB irradiation. The results indicate that chlorogenic acid is not degraded under UVA or UVB irradiation.