Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Washington, 2016-08

A model of the wind direction signature in the Stokes emission vector from the ocean surface at microwave frequencies

This paper presents a model of the Stokes emission vector from the ocean surface. The ocean surface is described as an ensemble of facets with Cox and Munk's (1954) Gram-Charlier slope distribution. The study discusses the impact of different up-wind and cross-wind rms slopes, skewness, peakedness, foam cover models and atmospheric effects on the azimuthal variation of the Stokes vector, as well as the limitations of the model. Simulation results compare favorably, both in mean value and azimuthal dependence, with SSM/I data at 53° incidence angle and with JPL's WINDRAD measurements at incidence angles from 30° to 65°, and at wind speeds from 2.5 to 11 m/s.

Studies on ocean surface layer responses to atmospheric forcing in the North Indian Ocean

The present study on upper ocean responses to atmospheric forcing (associated with cyclone passage) in North Indian Ocean revealed significant variability between AS and BoB. The analysis of cyclone frequency during 1947 to 2006 exhibited lesser frequency of cyclones in AS than that of BoB. The analysis also revealed significant reduction in cyclone frequency after the year 1976 with substantial reduction during monsoon season. The long term SST data at selected points in AS and BoB could not reveal any relation with reduction in cyclone frequency. However the SLP at same locations exhibited considerable increase during mid 1970’s, which could have contributed to the observed reduction in cyclone frequency after the year 1976.The response in waves during cyclone passage exhibited significant asymmetry on either side of the track in AS and BoB and the response is observed at 100’s of kilometers away from the track. The significant clockwise rotation in wave direction is observed on the right side of the track starting from near the track to far away locations, which existed for a longer duration. However, the anticlockwise rotation in wave direction is observed over a shorter distance on the left side of the track and dissipated immediately.Inertial oscillation is observed in surface current and in the mixed layer temperature associated with cyclone passage, which revealed the role of relative location(s) on either side of the track. The inertial peak closer to the local inertial period indicates maximum transfer of energy during the cyclone passage in both AS and BoB. The absence of strong inertial oscillation even with clockwise rotation in surface current and wind indicates the dominant role of duration of strong wind in generating inertial oscillation.The oceanic response associated with cyclone passage reveal the variable response(s) which depends on cyclone intensity, the proximity to track and cyclone translation speed. It is observed that resonance with wind generates higher response in surface current, wave and SST on the right side of the track and it lasts for a longer duration. The maximum oceanic response is observed at a few kilometers away on right side of the track. However lesser rightward bias in the location of maximum cooling is observed for cyclones with low cyclone translation speed. The response on the left side of the track is less and is limited over a shorter distance and dissipates immediately. It is observed that the ocean response, in general, increases with intensity of cyclones. However the differential cooling produced by the same intensity cyclones in AS and in BoB indicates the dominant role of low cyclone translation speed in oceanic response.The surface cooling exhibited strikingly differential responses between AS and BoB. The TMI-SST and buoy observations exhibited significant cooling for a longer duration in AS compared to that of BoB. The spatial extent of cooling is also much higher in AS than that of BoB. The wide spread cooling associated with cyclone passage in AS indicates the dominant role of thermal structure in oceanic response in AS than that of BoB.

On the connection between dissipation enhancement in the ocean surface layer and Langmuir circulations

A mechanism for the enhancement of the viscous dissipation rate of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) in the oceanic boundary layer (OBL) is proposed, based on insights gained from rapid-distortion theory (RDT). In this mechanism, which complements mechanisms purely based on wave breaking, preexisting TKE is amplified and subsequently dissipated by the joint action of a mean Eulerian wind-induced shear current and the Stokes drift of surface waves, the same elements thought to be responsible for the generation of Langmuir circulations. Assuming that the TKE dissipation rate epsilon saturates to its equilibrium value over a time of the order one eddy turnover time of the turbulence, a new scaling expression, dependent on the turbulent Langmuir number, is derived for epsilon. For reasonable values of the input parameters, the new expression predicts an increase of the dissipation rate near the surface by orders of magnitude compared with usual surface-layer scaling estimates, consistent with available OBL data. These results establish on firmer grounds a suspected connection between two central OBL phenomena: dissipation enhancement and Langmuir circulations.

A global perspective on Langmuir turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer.

The turbulent mixing in thin ocean surface boundary layers (OSBL), which occupy the upper 100 m or so of the ocean, control the exchange of heat and trace gases between the atmosphere and ocean. Here we show that current parameterizations of this turbulent mixing lead to systematic and substantial errors in the depth of the OSBL in global climate models, which then leads to biases in sea surface temperature. One reason, we argue, is that current parameterizations are missing key surface-wave processes that force Langmuir turbulence that deepens the OSBL more rapidly than steady wind forcing. Scaling arguments are presented to identify two dimensionless parameters that measure the importance of wave forcing against wind forcing, and against buoyancy forcing. A global perspective on the occurrence of waveforced turbulence is developed using re-analysis data to compute these parameters globally. The diagnostic study developed here suggests that turbulent energy available for mixing the OSBL is under-estimated without forcing by surface waves. Wave-forcing and hence Langmuir turbulence could be important over wide areas of the ocean and in all seasons in the Southern Ocean. We conclude that surfacewave- forced Langmuir turbulence is an important process in the OSBL that requires parameterization.

Surface waves in the Beaufort Sea

Thesis (Master's)--University of Washington, 2016-06

Surface Waves and Roughness in Self-Aerated Supercritical Flow

In high-velocity open channel flows, free-surface aeration is commonly observed. The effects of surface waves on the air-water flow properties are tested herein. The study simulates the air-water flow past a fixed-location phase-detection probe by introducing random fluctuations of the flow depth. The present model yields results that are close to experimental observations in terms of void fraction, bubble count rate and bubble/droplet chord size distributions. The results show that the surface waves have relatively little impact on the void fraction profiles, but that the bubble count rate profiles and the distributions of bubble and chord sizes are affected by the presence of surface waves.

Simulation of surface waves in porous media

We present a novel numerical algorithm for the simulation of seismic wave propagation in porous media, which is particularly suitable for the accurate modelling of surface wave-type phenomena. The differential equations of motion are based on Biot's theory of poro-elasticity and solved with a pseudospectral approach using Fourier and Chebyshev methods to compute the spatial derivatives along the horizontal and vertical directions, respectively. The time solver is a splitting algorithm that accounts for the stiffness of the differential equations. Due to the Chebyshev operator the grid spacing in the vertical direction is non-uniform and characterized by a denser spatial sampling in the vicinity of interfaces, which allows for a numerically stable and accurate evaluation of higher order surface wave modes. We stretch the grid in the vertical direction to increase the minimum grid spacing and reduce the computational cost. The free-surface boundary conditions are implemented with a characteristics approach, where the characteristic variables are evaluated at zero viscosity. The same procedure is used to model seismic wave propagation at the interface between a fluid and porous medium. In this case, each medium is represented by a different grid and the two grids are combined through a domain-decomposition method. This wavefield decomposition method accounts for the discontinuity of variables and is crucial for an accurate interface treatment. We simulate seismic wave propagation with open-pore and sealed-pore boundary conditions and verify the validity and accuracy of the algorithm by comparing the numerical simulations to analytical solutions based on zero viscosity obtained with the Cagniard-de Hoop method. Finally, we illustrate the suitability of our algorithm for more complex models of porous media involving viscous pore fluids and strongly heterogeneous distributions of the elastic and hydraulic material properties.

Polyunsaturated aldehydes from large phytoplankton of the Atlantic Ocean Surface (42ºN to 33ºS)

Polyunsaturated aldehydes (PUAs) are organic compounds mainly produced by diatoms, after cell wounding. These compounds are increasingly reported as teratogenic for species of grazers and deleterious for phytoplanktonic species, but there is still scarce information regarding concentration ranges and the composition of PUAs in the open ocean. In this study, we analyzed the spatial distribution and the type of aldehydes produced by the large-sized (>10 μm) phytoplankton in the Atlantic Ocean surface. Analyses were conducted on PUAs released after mechanical disruption of the phytoplankton cells, referred to here as potential PUAs (pPUAs). Results show the ubiquitous presence of pPUA in the open ocean, including upwelling areas, as well as oligotrophic gyres. Total pPUA concentrations ranged from zero to 4.18 pmol from cells in 1 L. Identified PUAs were heptadienal, octadienal and decadienal, with heptadienal being the most common (79% of total stations). PUA amount and composition across the Atlantic Ocean was mainly related to the nitrogen:phosphorus ratio, suggesting nutrient-driven mechanisms of PUA production. Extending the range of trophic conditions considered by adding data reported for productive coastal waters, we found a pattern of PUA variation in relation to trophic status.

Ocean surface winds drive dynamics of transoceanic aerial movements

Global wind patterns influence dispersal and migration processes of aerial organisms, propagules and particles, which ultimately could determine the dynamics of colonizations, invasions or spread of pathogens. However, studying how wind-mediated movements actually happen has been hampered so far by the lack of high resolution global wind data as well as the impossibility to track aerial movements. Using concurrent data on winds and actual pathways of a tracked seabird, here we show that oceanic winds define spatiotemporal pathways and barriers for large-scale aerial movements. We obtained wind data from NASA SeaWinds scatterometer to calculate wind cost (impedance) models reflecting the resistance to the aerial movement near the ocean surface. We also tracked the movements of a model organism, the Cory's shearwater (Calonectris diomedea), a pelagic bird known to perform long distance migrations. Cost models revealed that distant areas can be connected through"wind highways" that do not match the shortest great circle routes. Bird routes closely followed the low-cost"wind-highways" linking breeding and wintering areas. In addition, we found that a potential barrier, the near surface westerlies in the Atlantic sector of the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), temporally hindered meridional trans-equatorial movements. Once the westerlies vanished, birds crossed the ITCZ to their winter quarters. This study provides a novel approach to investigate wind-mediated movements in oceanic environments and shows that large-scale migration and dispersal processes over the oceans can be largely driven by spatiotemporal wind patterns.

Surface wave processes in air-sea interaction

We review briefly recent progress on understanding the role of surface waves on the marine atmospheric boundary layer and the ocean mixed layer and give a global perspective on these processes by analysing ERA-40 data. Ocean surface waves interact with the marine atmospheric boundary layer in two broad regimes: (i) the conventional wind-driven wave regime, when fast winds blow over slower moving waves, and (ii) a wave-driven wind regime when long wavelength swell propagates under low winds, and generates a wave-driven jet in the lower part of the marine boundary layer. Analysis of ERA-40 data indicates that the wave-driven wind regime is as prevalent as the conventional wind-driven regime. Ocean surface waves also change profoundly mixing in the ocean mixed layer through generation of Langmuir circulation. Results from large-eddy simulation are used here to develop a scaling for the resulting Langmuir turbulence, which is a necessary step in developing a parametrization of the process. ERA-40 data is then used to show that the Langmuir regime is the predominant regime over much of the global ocean, providing a compelling motivation for parameterising this process in ocean general circulation models.

On the initiation of surface waves by turbulent shear flow

An analytical model is developed for the initial stage of surface wave generation at an air-water interface by a turbulent shear flow in either the air or in the water. The model treats the problem of wave growth departing from a flat interface and is relevant for small waves whose forcing is dominated by turbulent pressure fluctuations. The wave growth is predicted using the linearised and inviscid equations of motion, essentially following Phillips [Phillips, O.M., 1957. On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech. 2, 417-445], but the pressure fluctuations that generate the waves are treated as unsteady and related to the turbulent velocity field using the rapid-distortion treatment of Durbin [Durbin, P.A., 1978. Rapid distortion theory of turbulent flows. PhD thesis, University of Cambridge]. This model, which assumes a constant mean shear rate F, can be viewed as the simplest representation of an oceanic or atmospheric boundary layer. For turbulent flows in the air and in the water producing pressure fluctuations of similar magnitude, the waves generated by turbulence in the water are found to be considerably steeper than those generated by turbulence in the air. For resonant waves, this is shown to be due to the shorter decorrelation time of turbulent pressure in the air (estimated as proportional to 1/Gamma), because of the higher shear rate existing in the air flow, and due to the smaller length scale of the turbulence in the water. Non-resonant waves generated by turbulence in the water, although being somewhat gentler, are still steeper than resonant waves generated by turbulence in the air. Hence, it is suggested that turbulence in the water may have a more important role than previously thought in the initiation of the surface waves that are subsequently amplified by feedback instability mechanisms.